Just baught pic related. So, how much did i fuck up /p/? Never

>>3116045
You did great, no fuck ups. Just read the manual, and take it easy when shooting, learn the basics.

As for film, start with the cheap shit first, so you get the technique down.

How much did you pay for that F-1? In that condition?

>>3116047
360 USD and i also baught a Canon FD 100-200mm F/5.6 to go with it in good but not perfect condition for 40 USD:

The price i guess was a little high but that was the price the local markets was on in my country anyway (expensive to live here). I wanted something really good and found out that the F-1 was a flagship in its time so thats why i went for it.

Been doing alot of reading on shooting, i want to do some cyberpunk night time photography, B/W or colour, does not matter, however im curious to if i need a tripod when using no flash on a 400 ISO film with that 50mm aperture.

>>3116050
*Bought

$360 is a lot, but whatever, F-1 is great.

Yes you do need a tripod, and 400 speed is fine, I would also suggest getting a shutter release cable to minimise shaking.

Also you mean 50 mm focal length, because the 1.4 aperture is fine. 50 mm is kind of tight, but you can make it work.

>>3116050

Night time photography, that reminds me of this channel someone mentioned half a year ago. A guy shooting a different roll a day at night. https://www.youtube.com/user/Dannish64/videos

There are some websites which compare films, like the Fuji Provia, Superia and Velvia.

https://www.onlandscape.co.uk/2010/12/a-colour-film-comparison/

The F1, was Canons flaghip from the early to mid 70s. However more important is it's condition, are the shutter speeds still accurate, are there light leaks etc.

>>3116066
If OP bought the camera in the pic, then he's onto a winner. I doubt anything is faulty, and it's a quality piece of kit.

>>3116065
Is there any other lenses that fit this camera that would be less tight but still good for low light? Indoors dim lit where a 35mm(?) lens would be better, per say, around a dinner table?

Also, this shutter release cable, do i need it? Cant i just push the button very carefully? If im shooting down a street light lit street at summer when its not pitch black dark anyway wont a tripod suffice? What about people in the scene, will i be able to take a picture of people walking normal pace without too much blur?

>>3116066
The seller said it was a 8.5/10. Really hope i hit a winner here, makes me kind of nervous with this "light leak" stuff :S

>>3116071
Yes, pic related from the seller.

>>3116072
You've clearly not read enough.

All of the FD lenses fit, and since you have a 1.4 that is plenty for low light, do you want to spend another 360$ for a slightly faster lens?

>Cant i just push the button very carefully?
Not really, even a small bump with a slow shutter speed will show up in the picture. You're underestimating how much light you'll need, most people will look blurry under a street light.

>>3116077
I see.

For the other lens, i meant a wider because you stated a 50mm could be too tight?

The camera itself has a shutter speed of 2 seconds max, would i need to use in excess of that if its night time?

>>3116079
I think you might have made a mistake buying such an expensive camera for so little experience.

Yes, FD lenses come in many focal lengths.

And I don't know if you're trolling, but it clearly has B - bulb, so you can hold down the shutter forever - hence why the shutter cable is needed.

>>3116083

>I think you might have made a mistake buying such an expensive camera for so little experience.
Was hoping to gain some experience here with this camera

>Yes, FD lenses come in many focal lengths.
Yes, but would a 50mm be too tight?

>And I don't know if you're trolling, but it clearly has B - bulb, so you can hold down the shutter forever - hence why the shutter cable is needed.
Yes, i read about this "manual shutter", but how long would i need to depress it for? How do i know? I know i can overexpose on film but at streetlight darkness how many seconds are we talking here?

>>3116094
The only reason why I'm replying at this stage is because I'm procrastinating from writing a thesis... anyway...

>Was hoping to gain some experience here with this camera

Well you could have done that with a camera costing 50$, not sure why you picked such an expensive one.

>Yes, but would a 50mm be too tight?

Depends on what you're shooting. If it's landscape, yes, it's a bit narrow. Look it up.

>but how long would i need to depress it for? How do i know? Thats why you meter and test properly, you do this from experience. Every situation is different.

Where are you from btw?

>>3116102
>Where are you from btw?

Norway my friend

>>3116105
I see, well I know shit is expensive there - I know it's too late, but I would have gotten a much cheaper Canon AE-1.

But seeing as you have it, know this;

- Go to your library and pick up a book on film photography. I'm serious, it has all of the answers you are looking for.

- Buy some shit-tier film in bulk and just fuck around with the camera, don't try to make a master piece, just play with it.

- Don't bother with night photography yet, that's a skill you need to learn, start with very basic stuff, again literature will help.

- You don't need fancy lenses, you don't need fancy shit, just the 50mm is enough. Stick with that, take it with you places and just have fun.

- THEN when you get your stuff developed, you'll see what you did right/wrong. It's worth having a notebook for this reason.

But I can assure you 100%, that /p/ is to be avoided. Go to the library, do your homework, take some pics.

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>Is there a comparison website?
http://www.fotoimport.no/filmtest/filmtmax.html

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>>3116113
Nice, thanks bro. Good luck on your thesis

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>>3116118
Colour films:

https://www.onlandscape.co.uk/2011/02/colour-film-comparison-pt-two/

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>>3116045
>So, how much did i fuck up /p/?
Well you bought the wrong fucking camera, for starters.
That's an F-1, what you wanted was a New F-1.
It's the difference between buying an old heavy camera and a perfect camera.
There's really no price difference.
Provided it isn't broken though, it should serve you just fine.

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Seconding all of what >>3116113 said. This is likely to be the last time /p/ handfeeds you, mainly because you blew a fuckton of film and dev's worth of cash on the part in a MF SLR's price that doesn't make quite that much difference; so our inner gearfags nod in approval.

Anyway, if you find yourself liking what you shot, get into home dev and scanning as soon as possible. Everything about it literally saves money after X rolls, and "poor man pays twice" applies. The rabbit hole goes down to bulk loading your own in a darkbag, loading the camera body in a darkbag, and cooking your own xtol-clone developers. Mine works out to 9 cents per frame; I'm sure Kurwa does it cheaper.

>>3116200
Every time you search "New F-1" on ebay you find F-1's that are brand new still in the box with a 1000 dollar price tag.

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>>3116200
>Not wanting the full mechanical version and instead opting for the version full of 30+ year old electronics

Topkek

>>3116259
>he has never experienced the shutter feel of a New F-1
You're more to be pitied than despised, anon.
Please, do try it.

>>3116050
At night, you will most surely need either a flash or ridiculously high ISO (1600-3200, and even then you have to use the lens wide open, and high ISO film has its disadvantages, like heavy grain). It's either that or using long shutter times, which requires a tripod or at least a stable platform like a wall or a table, but a tripod is better. Long shutter times also reduce the choice in subjects (can't capture fast movement, like sports or something, unless motion blur is an effect you want)