Hel/p/
How do I take pictures of a pyro show with film?
Is hp5 pushed to 1600 fast enough with a 50mm 1.4 lens and a 28mm 3.5?
Will the meter even work?
>>3112966
Should I waste 20 bucks on portra 800?
off-camera flash with rear-curtain sync
>>3112966
Hp5 pushed twice gives a super contrast photo, probably zero to no shadow retention, might look neat though. 1600 delta at 1600 will give you better shadows. Are you printing or scanning?
>>3112967
On 135 or 120? hp5 can be pushed pretty far depending on what developer you'll be using.
Don't bother with Portra 800, just use new Portra 400 at 800 or 1600 and push at dev
>>3112966
pop and drag
you shouldn't need more than 400 and perhaps be better off with 160nc if you want that really warm fire look and go with a full CTO on the flash (Lee filter #441)
if you can find some 64T slide film it will look fucking amazing. But in that case go with a double CTO (Lee filter #287)
you shouldn't need a super long shutter time, experiment between 1/15, 1/30, and 1/60. the longer shutter will give a longer trail to the flame but is more likely to create a ghost figure of the person. My guess is that 1/30 would be the sweet spot if you use a speedlite on or off camera with the filter (remember to factor the 1-2 stop loss of light with the filter)
>>3113026
Not op, but I'm new to film. What's wrong with 800?
>>3113043
Am I missing something.
Clearly it's dark, how the hell is he supposed to use 64 speed film
>>3113046
fire is quite bright ... going by the image he posted he wants to capture the flame without illuminating much of the stage or anything behind the performers. a speedlite or two can be directed to fill the performers without splashing on an unwanted background object
>>3113044
Its just an older emulsion
>>3113044
The new Portra 160 and 400 is just formulated differently, it's new. They both have incredible latitude and ridiculously fine grain for what they are. When underexposed the grain in Portra 400 is finer than in Portra 800 (in my experience)
ok this is a ghetto setup with a zippo but eh.
f5.6 and the rest should be in exif
depending on the size of the piro, a full second or more could be good but you can get away with low ISO
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
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a little (or a lot) intoxicated otherwise I would have done this better but full CTO and ND8 in front of the flash (on auto)
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>>3112966
You could push Tri-X to 3200. It's even usable at 6400 and I read about usable results at 12800 but I don't know if I'd trust that. Stand development could give nice results, as it often forms a small halo effect around objects, further discerning it from the background or other objects
>>3113024
without a flash, your subject will be a blurry mess
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Camera-Specific Properties: Camera Software Image-Specific Properties: Image Width 1600 Image Height 1200
>>3113063
What this ND is doing? Can't you just power down the flash?
>>3112966
>How do I take pictures of a pyro show with film?
Dont? It won't be easy and probably won't turn out. I would take some test shots on digital and go from there.
When shooting this stuff it's like your photographing two different things at once: the flame and everything else. Set your fstop for the flame and then figure out the shutter speed or flash for rest of the scene.
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For fireworks, you have to underexpose a lot to what your camera tells you. Iso 400-800 is usable at the expense of the speed/aperture. Better be using a long focal length or getting close to the flame to get an interesting shot.
Also the main trick with fire is that it come and go real fast, you have to anticipate a lot. Observation and patience is key there.
It's in french, but has everything you need to know : http://www.burncrewconcept.net/fr/webzine/tutorial/195-guide-de-photographie-de-flammes.html
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