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What's the best hasselblad setup (body+lens) for portraits?

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Thread images: 6

File: IMG_0723.jpg (37KB, 374x393px) Image search: [Google]
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What's the best hasselblad setup (body+lens) for portraits?

I want one of the bodies that can take the attachable viewfinder thing (pic related). What is considered the absolute best hasselblad lens for portraits?

Thanks.

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120mm CF Makro f/4
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>>3010016
The 4/120 is the only Hassy lens I own.

I'd post examples but my garbage snapshits on garbage film with garbage processing and garbage scans wouldn't do it justice.
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If portraits are your thing get an RZ instead.
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Hasselblad V is a dead system so don't waste a lot of money on it
80mm and 150mm
just get an extension tube if you want macro, the 120 is one of the lenses that are still expensive for some unknown reason.

any body will take the finder you want. 500c does not have interchangeable focusing screens but the 500c/m, 501,503 will. Be wary of any body that requires batteries like the 500ELM pic related

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>>3010025

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>>3010149
i appreciate that youre posting photos and all, but, kys my man.
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>>3009999
I have a 501c with the 80mm and just bought the 120mm yesterday. The 80 is nice for portraits, pic related. I only used the 8mm extension tube, the 16mm and up are pretty hardcore for closeup work.
For that, I used the 501c with the 80mm and an 8mm extension tube.
>>
If you haven't considered it yet, I would recommend a cheaper 6x6 system and then you can put all that money you save towards buying a bunch of film or lights or whatever you need. The Hasselblad bodies are beautiful and the Zeiss lenses are supposedly the best, but the system is all mechanical and so more prone to jamming or just needing service to keep it in good shape. And larger formats are much less demanding of lens quality than 35mm is, you don't need absolutely the sharpest lenses you can get to take photos that look excellent and scan well or can print to large sizes.

You can build an entire Bronica SQ kit, for example, probably for less than just a 500 C/M body with a WLF and a single back and an 80mm lens. You could have a couple of extra backs, a prism finder if you want it, a whole set of focal lengths, and whatever other accessories you want.
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>>3010213
1600 iso?
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>>3010222
>If it hasn't activated your brain almonds, I'd recommend a cheaper digital Timex rather than that fully mechanical Rolex (which by the way, all those gears? Totally prone to failure) Not only can you have 10 Timex's on each arm for the price of one measly Rolex but when it comes to telling the time, digital watches are much forgiving on accuracy. There's no need to be synced to a quartz crystal or an atom when the digital Timex is synced through software. What difference is a few milliseconds anyways?
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>>3010225
Nah just expired color stuff that looked like shit. I think 400iso Portra NC?

This was 320TriX Pan.
>>3010222
Only arguement against this, and totally my own opinion, after owning an SQ-A and GS-1, is that the Hasselblad is totally mechanical, less prone to issues. If you do encounter an issue, many more repairmen exist for this camera than a Bronica. Reproduction and sharpness wise, no difference. Color contrast, little to no difference. I can also post some examples from a Bronica, if you want to see. They're both nice. One will always be able to get repaired. I believe in repairs over replacement.
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>>3010252
A watch is a fashion statement. A camera is not, unless you're a faggot.
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>>3010222
>>3010257
also I'll add that Hasselblad V systems have dropped in price so much that the price argument is really moot. around here Bronica cameras (1 lens and 1 back) run around 3-400 and Hasselblad kits 6-800. The overall robustness of the bald makes it well worth the extra dollars to me.
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>>3010257

Extremely grainy. Your developing and scanning is shit.
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>>3010428
Doesn't matter if it's a fashion statement or not. Good design is good design. A Hasselblad will hold it's value much more than a Bronica system.
Thread posts: 16
Thread images: 6


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