This is the Film General Thread: "Post Your Slide Snaps"

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there you go, fag ass.

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Hey, got a question about Bronicas:

So I already own a Hasselblad 500c. Bought it when I was like 18. I only have the 80mm for it. Want to get other lenses, but they run at least 500$ apiece for even the most basic shit (120mm, 50mm). Is there any appreciable difference in image quality for the lens glass between Hasselblads and other 6x6 MF cameras? Is it cheaper to just grab a Bronica body and 3 lenses (normal, semi-long/portrait, and wide) than go for another 2 lenses with the Hasselblad?

Asking again for more feedback.

Also here's a contact print I fucked up.

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Are y'all using light meters or metering with film camera or a second digital camera or?

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>>3005186
>>3005186 #
How big do you print? Aside from different rendering signatures, I doubt you'll notice a difference of sharpness unless you're planning to print poster sized or larger.

>>3005190
If my camera has a meter I use that. For my Bronica I use a Sekonic l-308.

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>>3005190
I use a spot when I shoot with the RB67 or the 4x5

What is that printing method where shit looks painted onto the print?

>>3005174
GREAT SUBJECT LINE YOU FUCKING MORON

>>3005190
I use a cheap light meter for my mamiya c330 and for my other cameras just the inbody meter

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found a point n shoot pentax at value village for $7, this is my 2nd roll of film w/ it. shot superia 400

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>>3005253
this one was converted to b/w bc the colors were gross but the rest has not been altered

im not a photographer

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>>3005174
>SERIOUSLY INCLUDE A PHOTO WITH YOUR POST

lol wut

>>3005267
fuck off digipleb

>>3005278

wow RUDE

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Went shooting today.

Ilford HP5 Plus, as usual.

I'm pretty much no good at this, but God dammit, I want to get better.

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>>3005281

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>>3005287

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>>3005288

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>>3005290

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>>3005291

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>>3005190
Shot with a Kodak Pony IV the other week and the Sunny 16 rule worked pretty well. But I did consult my digital when I wasn't sure.

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>>3005255
This is rad. Is it a piece by that artist that uses rope and lights to make massive installations in cities?

>>3005258
>>3005262
Are also cool. You have a good eye. Keep it up.

>>3005291
This is cool but a super overplayed concept. The rest feel pretty unnatural. I don't shoot portraits though, so wtf do I know.

Sry if this doesn't count as an 'original film photo' but it's from today. Killed 2 rolls of Provia 100F in 120 and a roll of Ultramax 400 in 35mm.

>>3005320
>This is cool but a super overplayed concept
>posts iphone into wlf photo
>which is a cropped rectangular photo of himself taking a square format photo, which he initially posted on a carriage service optimised for square format photos, and is now reposting on a chinese scat-rape fan-wiki
SSSHHHHHIIIIIIGGGGGYYYY
These filmfags have no self awareness whatsover.

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>>3005337
That's obviously not supposed to be a photo that had any thought put into it, while the other photo did. I'll post the actual photos from the roll when I get them back, cunt. Then you can talk shit all you want. <3

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>>3005320
Hey thanks a lot man!! I don't get many compliments usually :^)

No its fully metal! Not sure who the artist was. This was in Calgary Alberta

Why the fuck don't you faggots link the new thread in the previous thread?
Cmon OP
Fucking hell

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6x9 Velvia 50

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>>3005443

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Threadly reminder that Ilford HP5 is shit.
>>3005229
Place the print into the developer and remove it almost immediately at high speed into the stop bath.

>>3005573

b-but it's so affordable

what would you recommend in its place?

>>3005573
I bet you tried it one time and developed it with rodinal

>laughinggirls.jpg

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>>3005577
Don't listen to him. HP5 is amazing. Try it in HC-110, 1+31 or 1+63.

HP5 and Tri-X are the most forgiving b&w films there is.

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>>3005630

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>>3005632

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>>3005636
All HP5

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Haven't got this scanned. Just a phone snap.

One off the first roll thru a Pentax 67.

Thoughts?

Shot at 1/60
Tmax 400

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>>3005630

Like the details here. I've actually just used Ilford for everything because it's cheap through Adorama. I've heard HC-110 is what Ansel Adams preferred, though, albeit he used Tri-X, which is apparently much more contrasty?

So far I've just used Ilfosol 3. Cheap enough through Adorama.

>>3005717
F76+ is a good dev. Or just Clayton F76.

I don't dilute when I use F76+. Just dev Trix and Tmax 400 @ 70F for 6.5-7 minutes.

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dropping japan stuff

e100g, yashica LM

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>>3005770
>>3005712
nice m8

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>>3005771

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Just won a Revue AC4 SP for 28 Euros on Ebay. It will be my frist film camera, it apparently is a rebranded Chinon CP-5s.

A friend of mine which started shooting film recently is telling me I wasted money on a shit camera. So I basically just want a second opinion on this since it looks like a fine deal to me.

>SERIOUSLY INCLUDE A PHOTO WITH YOUR POST
Will include some after I got my camera.

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>>3005772

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>>3005774

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>>3005777
previous and this one are fuji 160 nps on a olympus stylus epic. fucker keeps misfocusing.

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>>3005778
spot meter

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>>3005779
fuji 800 at robot restaurant

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>>3005779
where the fuck are you standing there. looks very tall.

>>3005443
>>3005446
Frigging nice

>>3005446
ver is dis

OP
I'd save up for the distagon 50mm top tier lens

>>3005857
Somewhere close to where I live in Norway. Velvia 50 has a tendency to render yellows very very warm. The real color of that yellow stuff was very bright neon yellow. I have no idea what it is, some sort of mold or moss.

>>3005857
>>3005890
Found it somewhere else too. Also Velvia 50, but with 6x8.

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>>3005891
Forgot to resize.

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>>3005895
please dump more velvias if you have em

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>>3005906

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>>3005974

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>>3005975

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>>3005977

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>>3005640
>>3005636

>dat aspect ratio

what did you use?

>>3005974
>>3005975
>>3005977
>>3005978

thanks anon

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>>3005979
Fuji GX617, 90mm

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Minolta XG-1

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>>3006014

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>>3005975
>>3005977
>>3005978
Where did you take these? Its real nice.

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>>3006015

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>>3005630
I started by using HP5, but I really prefer Ilford Delta 100, developed ind HC-110, but for seven instead of five minutes.

>>3005193
I seldom print. I'm one of those losers who takes such terrible snapshits that I only ever scan them and look at them myself.

>>3005981
Dang man, how much did that cost you? I wanted one but had to settle for a chinese knockoff.

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>>3006058
I just developed a reel of Ilford Delta 100 film that I shot over the holiday season. I'll start posting images.

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>>3005573
eat balls

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>>3006073

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>>3006067
Here's another of one of my favorite childhood toys.

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>>3006073
>>3006077
Shit. Should have taken them with some RPX400 instead buddy.
>>3005981
Nice, do you only shoot HP5 because you can't afford good emulsions?

File: Bassoon-Reeds.jpg (259KB, 1000x655px) Image search: [Google]

259KB, 1000x655px

>>3006078
This was a photo which I didn't expect to turn out. I was loading the camera when it was taken, back in early November. The spots probably occurred due to bubbles forming while developing. I could edit them out if I wanted to, but I think they look kind of cool.

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>>3006094

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File: _IMG4899_pexp.jpg (676KB, 900x1200px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3005717
>albeit he used Tri-X, which is apparently much more contrasty?
tx400 d76

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>>3006099

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I think this was expired fuji 200

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File: filmscan_1.jpg (3MB, 2900x1945px) Image search: [Google]

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Old Kodachrome from the 60s of my mom's family

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>>3006184
aint nobody looking at that cat with dem tits in the frame

>>3006185
>>3006186
>>3006188
Neat stuff

>>3006188
That is a fine fucking BBQ with some fine fucking steaks on it.
>olden days a best days

>>3006060
>Chinese knock off
Which one exactly?
If like too shoot 6x17 but don't have the cash atm

File: untitled-13.jpg (663KB, 2000x653px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3006017
I was skating along the shore of frozen lakes. Not too far from where I live in Norway.

>>3006060
Don't remember. Bought it from KEH a few years ago. Probably somewhere of $2400. With center filter.

>chinese knockoff.
They get the job done. Is it for mounting on a view camera? If it is, it's in a way a lot better, because you get movements and 100% accurate framing. I don't.

>>3006058
I think delta looks better in XTOL than HC-110. You could also try it in Pyrocat-HD.

I use XTOL / Pyrocat for T-grain films (acros, delta, tmax etc) and HC-110 / Rodinal for C-grain films. (HP5, tri-x, ortho etc)

>>3006081
HP5 is good. Bruce Barnbaum recommends it and Tri-X in The Art of Photography, with HC-110. Although, I am trying to switch over to Acros 100, because I very often end up with long exposure times. Acros has no reciprocity failure up to 2 minutes! After that it's half a stop extra up to 1000 seconds.

Pic related, Acros. It is higher contrast, so therefore I will use Pyrocat-HD or XTOL 1+3 to bring it down. Pyrocat is also semi-compensating.

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>>3006340
Not him, but could be this:
http://www.bhcamera.us/dayi617.php

For 4x5 cameras:
http://www.badgergraphic.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=123

Or one of these:
http://www.shen-hao.com/PRODUCTS.aspx?i=154&id=n3

File: setup.jpg (209KB, 1080x1080px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3006195
Thanks! Setup is super easy... anyone who has slides to save should definitely do it.

>>3006332
>olden days a best days
Never thought I would pine for the past but these pics definitely make me a jealous

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>>3006015
that's nice

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Any of y'all niggas ever done a bokehrama (aka Brezinger Method, aka Bonanza Method, aka Bazinga Method) on 35mm film?

How long a lens does one need? Is it a good idea to shoot 6x6 frames for a 216mm x 144mm maximum total image area? Do stitching programs work adequately on hand-cropped film scans?

>>3006495
Brenizer Method - a photographic technique characterized by the creation of a digital image exhibiting a shallow depth of field in tandem with a wide angle of view. Created by use of panoramic stitching techniques applied to portraiture
>
>DIGITAL
>
NO

>>3006495
Try to for science

>>3005573
I can smell the bullshit. What is it actually?

>>3006343
I tried the one you slap on the 4x5, and it didn't really work. Very limited on which lenses you can use due to mechanical vignetting, and the movements aren't as handy as you'd think. It also sets the film back a further 20mm or so, which means that even with a recessed board, you can't use a 90mm or 75mm with it on some cameras. You have to carry all your normal 4x5 equipment, plus a viewing GG which isn't heavy but very bulky, and the back itself. Too unwieldy.

>>3006344
I got an near-mint DaYi 617 Shift IIA with a few lenses. Guy was selling it for the cost of the body new. Came with 3 cones, 3 lenses.

>>3006340
I'd recommend getting a speed graphic or something, and then slapping one of the 4x5 backs on it. If you find a used back, and a real beater of a graflex camera, crown or speed, it could run you less than 1000. Assuming you get a cheap 150mm lens or something. Both the Gaoersi and the DaYi 617 cameras are well over 1000 for the body and one of the default size cones they offer.

I'm actually still trying to get rid of my DaYi back. I've got both the 6x12 and the 6x17 with GG.

>>3006621
I actually just bought a Speed Graphic lol
Those dayi backs look interesting

>>3005190
follow up question: what method for metering are you usually using? shooting for shadows or just focused on midtones/subject or what?

File: tmax400.jpg (33KB, 399x376px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3006628
basically, the developing service uses the versomat so i wanted to know how to maximize this tmax ive got. as someone pretty new with film itd be nice to get fgt take on it

>>3006627
I'll sell you my used one if you're interested. It's in good condition. I only used it a handful of times. Came out of a distributor's old stock, was never used before me.

>>3006635
I definitely would if I had the cash :(

File: snow.png (1MB, 1103x738px) Image search: [Google]

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First roll of slide film.

File: Provia100F_001.jpg (390KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]

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Posted in the last thread about shooting slide through an XA2 and how good the meter would be.

Gave it a try and god damn, spot on metering. Set the ISO to 25 to compensate for the snow, but the camera did the rest. Provia 100F (and yes I see the newton rings).

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File: Ultramax_013.jpg (582KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]

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And an Ultramax 400 frame from my Stylus Epic.

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>>3006815
Yeah, I've had no issues shooting slide with my XA. One thing about the XA that people don't mention that often is that the ISO dial pretty much functions as an exposure comp. Shame it only goes up to 800 tho.

Recommendations for good color film?

File: 17761034590_aeea753874_b.jpg (183KB, 1000x1000px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3006876
>>3006876
Such a dope lil camera.

>>3007085
Fuji 400H is my favorite color negative.

File: 17092846619_6a1c0cb749_b.jpg (280KB, 800x800px) Image search: [Google]

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One more, less gloomy, 400H shot.

>>3005443
>>3005446
Wow those are really great!

File: img242.jpg (1MB, 1200x857px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3007104
>400h
seconding this.

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>>3006632
Anyone??

File: ShellDrip.jpg (78KB, 475x650px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3007144
I dunno bro, I just shoot according to the scene at hand and ballpark everything. If something's backlit and I want to see its details I overexpose by what my meter is saying by 1-1.5 stops. If it's a normal, sunlit scene I trust my meter. If it's dark and a really bright sign is in the frame I'll overexpose by 1-1.5 stops.

Turning photography into some crazy exact science by looking at data like >>3006632
would completely ruin it for me.

If you're shooting negative film all you need to do is ballpark guess and you should be totally fine.

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File: Provia100F_002.jpg (289KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]

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Any tips for shooting Velvia 100F? Should I shoot it at box speed? Got two rolls in a bulk film purchase.

Pic is another XA2 + Provia 100F shot

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Would using a lightmeter app be sufficient when shooting medium format?

>>3007207
No, because the medium format film collects more light so you need a light meter that can compensate the exposure calculation for you.

>>3007207
Depends on your phone and which app you use. My iPhone 4S and LightMeter Free app gave identical results to my Sekonic. My current Android phone is less accurate so I'm back to using my Sekonic.

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>>3007211
Seriously hoping this is bait...

>>3007213
That's a nice photo

>>3007223
what are you talking about? levels is so fucking off it hurts to look at

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>>3007223
Cheers!

>>3007232
Enlighten me.

so, ive heard hp5 performs pretty poorly with rodinal.. is there any dilution or secret dev technique that makes them agree more? do you guys have any experience in getting decent to good results with hp5 in rodinal?

File: KonicaSTest 19.jpg (842KB, 1440x953px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3007306
Pic related is HP5 in Rodinal (stand dev). Only done it a few times but I've had no issues with it.

>>3007180
>Should I shoot it at box speed?

Yes. Velvia has very little exposure latitude. Slide film in general really.
Anything over +2 becomes completely white with no detail.
Anything below -2 becomes completely black with no detail.

You need very accurate exposure to get good values. Don't over- or underexpose. Stick to low contrast situations. A spot meter would be best.

>>3007180
yes, I almost completely fucked the last roll I shot because I didn't use a light meter

Also, the film has a very strong red tint, so prepare for that

>>3006699
They sell new for 570. I'll sell you mine for 450.

>>3007311
that looks nice.. what dilution and for how long? stand dev only affects contrast right? or does it have any effect on the grain too?

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>>3007354
Well I mean, people generally rate Velvia 50 at 40 and many recommend Provia at 80, which is why I'm asking. Cheers for the advice though, bod speed it is. No dice on the spot meter, shooting on my XA2.

>>3007359
Why the fuck can't Fuji make a slide film that doesn't have a strong tint. Not sure if I'll prefer the red tint over Provia's blue tint...guess we'll see.

>>3007207
Yes. I use an old iPhone 5 (used to be 4S) with the free, ugly and ad-filled Pocket Light Meter. Shot slides with no issues.

>>3007180
Just box speed it. From what I've read Velvia 50 is the princess of films, but I'd be careful with overexposing 100F too.

https://youtu.be/Umnwa3yjzpU

>>3005443

Awesome. Could I have this in wallpaper res? 1680x1050

File: untitled.jpg (5MB, 2000x1328px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3007436

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>>3007457
Thanks!

>>3007375
1:100 dilution, 60 minutes with two gentle inversions at 30 minute mark. Stand dev lessens the rough grain Rodinal gives you otherwise somewhat, although I mostly use it because it consumes very little developer.

File: ROLAND KINO.jpg (864KB, 1200x1213px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3005174

Porn Theatre in Zurich. The redlight district there has so much neon, really cool. Much brighter than most neon I see in America, so it doesn't wash out in the daytime.
Hasselblad and Portra 400

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Tfw starting a darkroom course this weekend. Finally getting to do prints feels good man.

File: img324.jpg (688KB, 1200x771px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3007493
thanks for the help mate. i did 1:80 with one inversion at 30m and let it stand for a total of 50m. so far the negs seem to be pretty nice. the grain is better than i dared hoping for, but there seem to be a bit of haloing around peoples heads and areas of high contrast..

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>>3008095
>haloing
>doing stand development
>ever

The only time to do stand development is when you have very varying exposures throughout the roll.

File: img328-Edit.jpg (309KB, 777x1200px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3008119
hey, at least I'm having fun and learning. I'm pretty happy with the results, actually.. they scan well, theres lots of shadow details, even when 2 stops underexposed or shooting high contrast snow scenes.. the haloing is a slight problem, but from what i gather theres tricks to mitigate that..

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>>3008133
>even when 2 stops underexposed or shooting high contrast snow scenes
That's what I said:

>when you have very varying exposures throughout the roll.

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I've been developing my own photos for about a few months now, so I enjoy the process, but I'd like to ask, what's the pros and cons of developing yourself vs taking it to a shop?
Also pls crit 1/2

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>>3008226
2/2

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>>3008226
Shops usually sticks to just one developer, D76. It's a good all round developer.

Some labs (most?) do not offer push/pull development.

More expensive.

>>3008226
pros:
- you get to control every step of the process
(you can select the dev & fixer choice to your needs, you can contriol the processing times to the second)
- you gain new knowledge and skills
- no one to blame for fuck-ups but yourself
- cheaper in the long run
cons:
- initial cost is higher
- more time consuming
- you need space to set up a darkroom

>>3008310
last one is false you just need a changing bag and a lightproof tank.

Any recommendations on a affordable focusing Loupe for a 4x5?
I recently tried using an old macro lens which seemed to work ok but....i just found out that it's fucking radio active!

>>3008604
Just use any old lens you have lying around. Surely you have a nifty fifty from some thrift store find you can use. Doesn't have to be macro to work as a loupe.

>>3008503
>using a fumble bag
Oh the horror

File: Provia100F_005.jpg (354KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3008047
Hell yeah! Post some prints up once you get some good ones.

More Provia 100F

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>>3008503
might not even need a changing back, just a dark room. I use my bathroom

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Pixel Composition	RGB
Image Orientation	Top, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution	72 dpi
Vertical Resolution	72 dpi
Image Created	2017:01:24 21:19:44
Exposure Time	6 sec
F-Number	f/0.0
Exposure Program	Shutter Priority
ISO Speed Rating	100
Brightness	-6.0 EV
Exposure Bias	0 EV
Metering Mode	Pattern
Light Source	Cool White Fluorescent
Flash	No Flash, Compulsory
Focal Length	0.00 mm
Color Space Information	sRGB
Image Width	1000
Image Height	667
Rendering	Normal
Exposure Mode	Auto
White Balance	Manual
Scene Capture Type	Standard
Contrast	Normal
Saturation	Normal
Sharpness	Normal

File: KNSP16016 06.jpg (1MB, 841x1280px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 841x1280px

That feel when fourth attempt at C-41 at home and the results are still so grainy it's physically scratching my eyes. Digibase kit at +25C, 10 inversions at start and then 4 every 30 seconds. Pic related is Portra 160, and it looks like fucking Colorplus.

Feels bad man.

>>3008815
Have you tried stand developing it at 45 minutes/20 degrees?

How long at 25 degrees?

>>3008816
13 minutes following the kit's instructions. I added some extra time for bleach and fixer to do their thing.

>>3008821
Hmm, strange that it should be fucked if you followed the instructions, and are sure that you're doing it right.
Are you sure you didn't just underexpose the shot, if you let the snow trick your light meter?
I always meter Portra 160 at 120, and add a stop in snowy conditions, 2 if it's extremely bright.

Newfag to film here

Got a film camera. Used up all the exposures. Went to rewind the finished film but the back of the camera popped open half way through.
Is my entire film fucked or will I only lose the part of the film that was exposed to the light?

>>3008815
I thought c41 was always way hotter than this

>>3008861
The standard procedure is +37.8C, but I found it almost impossible to keep accurately with what I have at hand, and the process turned into panic-fueled chaos in my cramped bathroom. +25C takes a long time but keeping the temp is easy because it's only one degree off from my room temperature.

>>3008857
>only lose the part of the film that was exposed to the light?
This

>>3008870
Thanks. Shat myself