okay guys i'm lost. new to photography in general. say I

By the way i'm to poor for a leica. shooting on a Fuji XPRO 1 with a XF 35 F 2

>>3004466
>set iso to auto (limit 3200)
>daytime shoot aperture F16-F22
Study more before pressing that shutter button . I sugest you to buy a film camera, you will be more selective since you're spending money per shot.

>what's a good shutter speed to be shooting handheld eliminating motion blur
Do you even know what you are asking? Motion blur depends on the subject too. You can shoot static subjects at 1/60 on a SLR 1/30 on a Leica and 1/15 on a leaf shutter camera.

>>3004468
The problem i'm having is i bought a x pro 1 (digital rangefinder) it has a shit auto focus system no phase detect only contrast.. I love the feel of the camera but it's very limiting to someone new to photography..

not sure if you're familiar with the fuji system but the x pro's are basically poor mans "leicas" so it's set up like a old film camera

>>3004469
i bought a canon rebel t5i first and absolutely hated everything about it.

>>3004469

Set you camera to manual mode. You do this with the little knob at the front under the viewfinder (S, C, >M)


Enable focus distance indicator. This will make a line appear in the viewfinder so you see what will be in focus.

Enable back button focusing. This will remove the focus from the shutter button and you'll use one of the buttons on the back if yo want to quickly auto focus.


Now. Set you aperture to f8 or f11. Now manual focus until the "focus distance indicator" in the viewfinder touches the far right (focus at infinity).
The blue line now represent the full area that will be in focus. Depending on what lens you're using everything at some 1-3 meters will be in focus all the way to infinity.

Regarding shutterspeed it all depends on if you want to freeze movement or not. The good old rule for shooting handheld and eliminating motion blur due to shaking is focal lenght*2. So shooting a 35mm you could safely use a 1/60th shutterspeed. This will not freeze movement of a normal person walking. For that you'd want to use 1/125 or 1/250, or as fast as needed.

Excuse my poor english.

>>3004469
>but it's very limiting to someone new to photography
You just need manual mode and manual focus. Everything else is a plus.

>>3004475
Also, the xpro1 is a fantastic camera once you learn how to use it.

https://youtu.be/lx0tBr6yD7k This guy has a few good videos on the xpro 1

Just shoot apeture priority if you dont know what your doing. No shame for letting the camera pick.

1/250 is my preferred setting. Fast enough to freeze subject AND camera motion.

You don't necessarily need f/22. F/8-f/11 will be enough for a lot of what you'll want to shoot.

>>3004470
???
My first real camera was a 550D/T2i and it was suberb.
If mirrorless fool-frame with 33% more pickles hadn't gone under a grand I'd probably still be using it.
And if I actually *shot* digital, I would undoubtedly prefer using it over the A7. The only advantage the Sony has for actual shooting is burst rate.

>>3004467
>too poor for a leica
>goes for a fuji
Good job trying to pay those lenses

>>3004475
Thank you! this is exactly what I was looking for.

>>3004490
Nothing against Canons quality . I just hated the size of the body's/ lugging them around. my fuji goes everywhere with me.

>>3004532
X-pro 1 came with a 18-55 F2.8. I bought a 35 F2 for 299$. I frequently see the 14mm f2.8 and 16mm for as little as 599$.. i'm not interested in zoom's kinda defeats the purpose of a system like Fuji..

Leica is overpriced in every aspect. and If I really wanted to go that route I would end up with a used M8 for the same price as a brand new fuji body with a 18-55.. and If the lens cost was a issue theres always rokinon not to mention adaptors for just about every mount out there.

not to mention what if the M8 suddenly shits out.. is it reasonably affordable to turn around and buy another body? at least if something goes wrong with the XPRO-1 you can still pick up a XT-10 for around 700$ as a back up body.