Hi, I'm looking since a very long time for a PDF or PNG

>>2995043
why?

All cameras work the same way, you just have to learn photography in general, not a specific body and lens.

>>2995048
I like cheat-sheets.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

>>2995043
I can teach you EVERYTHING on those cheat sheets.

It's called the exposure triangle.
aperture - the smaller the number, the shallower the dof, the more light that gets through to the sensor.

shutter speed - how long the sensor is open to light for, most cameras range from 1/8000 to 30s, the faster the ss, the less motion blur.

iso - sensitivity, the more you crank it up, the shorter ss you can get, at the expense of noise and dynamic range. Your camera will take clean shots up to around iso 800, and shots plenty good for facebook/web up to 3200.

So now you know what each of the 3 variables in photography do, now learn stops. A stop is a doubling or halving in light and are always equal (the difference in exposure between 1/4000 and 1/8000 is the same as the difference between 20 seconds and 10 seconds)

Doubling/halving is easy to grasp for shutter speed, as time is a familiar thing, 1/50th to 1/100th is 1 stop darker. For iso each stop is again just a halving/doubling (iso 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200 are all 1 stop increments). And finally for aperture, the notation gets a little funky, but can easily be remembered, again, each of these increments is a 1 stop difference; 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16. You may be thinking "wow, that's arbitrary" but can be remembered as just 2 sequences of numbers doubling starting at 1.4 and 2.

So now you know ALL 3 parameters that can be changed on a camera, and these 3 parameters can be found on EVERY SLR camera, ever, even back in the film days. But how is it useful to you?

Well, because we get instant reviews on digital, it's a great way of improving your shot. Maybe your camera suggested 1/50th at f5.6, iso 100, but you're shooting a fast moving object and you want to get rid of the blur, so we can increase our ss by 1 stop (to 1/100) and reduce either the aperture to f4 or increase the iso to 200 to increase the exposure by 1 stop so we're back to the "correct" amount of light hitting the sensor.

>>2995058
We can also use this information to create our own shots exactly as we want, how?
First, decide what is more important, controlling motion blur or dof, then set ss or aperture to what you want. Good. Now set the other value to what you think you can get away with (whether that's as slow as you dare on the ss, or a shallower dof, the idea is to maximise the amount of light hitting your sensor, once you have both of those set it's a case of reading your exposure meter/histogram and shifting the iso until you have a well exposed shot.

Every other function on your camera is a proprietary gimmick, whether it's autofocus, bracketing, star-tracking or focus peaking.

The best way of learning what each of these does is through experimenting, but not until you've learnt the exposure triangle and can envision and build a photo up from scratch.

Quick tips
slowest shutter you want to use handheld is 1/2*focal length, so if you had a 50mm, 1/100 is about as slow as you can reliably go.

You want to keep iso as close to base (100) as possible, this will maximise the image quality and processing potential

Don't instantly trust AF, it doesn't know exactly what you want in focus, if you are utilising a shallow depth of field you may save time using liveview instead of the viewfinder, which leads on to....

You can not reliably focus with lenses faster than f2.8 on your camera, if you are using a 50 1.8 or other fast lens, use liveview. You can get much darker focusing screens that allow you to focus with faster lenses, but they aren't an ideal solution.

I came here with a simple request...
You know the saying about 'give a man a fish - feed him for a day, teach a man to fish - feed him for a lifetime' ?
Gimme the fuckin' fish, please.

>>2995084
get the fuck out, that's a simple request

>>2995058
Any tricks you know about memorizing half stops and third stops? having a bit of trouble with that. Also great detailed explanation. Too bad OP is acting like a fag

>>2995277
Not him but I only shoot at full stops.

>>2995277
You don't really need to memorize that, because film and modern cameras have enough exposure latitude to make knowing half and third stops necessary or you're using a mode where the camera calculates the exposure for you.

File: Selection_2017-01-05--11-30-46.png (19KB, 1378x197px) Image search: [Google]

19KB, 1378x197px

By 'rote', the same way people used to actually memorise the 'times-tables', generally it was 1 to 12 times 1 to 12 all written out in a table, and you just sat there and read it aloud till you could do it out of sequence for any combination.
one twelve is twelve
two twelves is twentyfour
three twelves is thirtysix
etc

>stops
0.7
No really.
Whole stops are a multiple of 0.7
Rembering third and half stops seems fairly pointless as the previous poster mentioned, but if you really wanted to you could use the multiples of 0.7 as a logic framework to help remember the ones you put into recall by pure 'rote'.