Hi /p/, I need some advice with a Jupiter lens I got recently.

Use rubbing alcohol or isopropanol.

Also check if there's a small mechanical problem you missed.

When I get impatient I sometimes use a (padded) wrench.

>>2916968
Tried spray solvent into the threads but to no avail. Guess I'll have to try sauna later, the heat might do the trick.

Try googling for a repair guide concerning soviet m39 lenses, i.e. industars and jupiters. There's a trick to softening the grease up just enough to permit disassembly, a solvent of some kind, which works if you're going to go swap out the fifties soviet fox grease and makes things worse if used for a stop-gap.

>>2916965
You have to use silicone-based grease. I've been to a local market regularly where they sell old lenses including Soviet M42 and they all the sellers and repair guys said the same thing.
I got myself a bottle of HG40 that I apply sometimes, but your local brand might be different.

>>2917026
Oh yeah, make sure not to use WD40 spray, it's the worst kinda grease you can use for a lens, the best is probably white lithium grease, but silicone is fine.
Use rosonol or ethanol to clean the helical itself if you manage to get to it.

>>2917028
I'll keep that in mind if I can ever unstuck this thing to begin with. Tried solvent and wreches, it won't even budge. Might as well throw it in a can of gasoline now.

>>2917033
Kerosene Is generally a better solvent than gasoline for greases. but the scary thing for you is the effect that either'll have on the glues used (not sure if duplets/triplets are used in those lenses designs, but if they are, they're likely glued together and most any solvent that'll get the grease will also get that glue).

If that's not a problem and you do end up dunking it, you're going to have to take the entire thing apart, use degreaser on it to completely remove all oils from every part (this is far more annoying than it sounds), reassemble, greasing parts that need grease as you go.

Find a grease that remains stable up to around 200 degrees F (95 or so C) because direct sunlight can heat metal shit up ridiculously hot, and you really don't want that running on the inside of your lens coating the optical parts.

>>2917039
Yeah, I tried plenty of mineral solvent spray and it does soften the grease that was exposed, but it just can't penetrate into the threading to actually unstuck this thing. Looks like letting it soak overnight is the only chance. Got no kerosene though, so gasoline will have to do, although I can probably find turpentine somewhere around the garage if that might work better.

>>2917039
Oh, and there's no need to worry about the optical elements, thanks to the lens design I was able to remove the entire lens assembly, it is completely separate from the focus assembly which is stuck.

>>2917045
Oh, then hell, dunk that shit. Just be super anal when you're going through the degreasing/cleaning side of it. You might even want to DIY up some penetrating oil (10:1, transmission fluid and acetone) to help accelerate getting that shit out.

File: 20160904_011.jpg (1MB, 3264x1840px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x1840px

>>2917046
And now we wait.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	Jolla
Camera Model	Jolla
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution	72
Vertical Resolution	72
Image Orientation	Right-Hand, Top
Exposure Time	0.1 sec
F-Number	f/2.4
ISO Speed Rating	100
Lens Aperture	f/2.4
Exposure Bias	0 EV
Metering Mode	Average
Flash	No Flash, Auto
Focal Length	4.22 mm
White Balance	Auto

>>2917028
i just wd40 mine.
:^)

>>2917067
Hey, your lenses, not mine. Even axle grease is better than WD40 in the long run, as the latter evaporates and leaves an uneven cover. WD40 is fine for say getting a lock unstuck, but not continued friction in a precision instrument.

>>2917091
Also, WD40 is volatile towards plastics, rubber and glue, while higher-end grease types are not. I didn't mention this right away because a Soviet lens is unlikely to contain plastic or rubber anywhere in its construction, but it's still a good thing to keep in mind for other lens types, as you may actually cause components to wear out faster.

>>2917098
>Soviet lens is unlikely to contain plastic or rubber anywhere in its construction

are soviet lenses secretely the patrice choice? they can be restored anytime from here to 200 years on, all you have to do is remove gum and rust.

File: 20160905_001.jpg (632KB, 3264x1840px) Image search: [Google]

632KB, 3264x1840px

Took the damn thing out of the gasoline bath. It felt like a desperation measure, but it worked, unscrewed the focus assembly open with little trouble. Time to look around for the recommended lubricants. Thanks again, guys.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	Jolla
Camera Model	Jolla
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution	72
Vertical Resolution	72
Image Orientation	Bottom, Right-Hand
Exposure Time	9/100 sec
F-Number	f/2.4
ISO Speed Rating	100
Lens Aperture	f/2.4
Exposure Bias	0 EV
Metering Mode	Average
Flash	No Flash, Auto
Focal Length	4.22 mm
White Balance	Auto

>>2917549
Good job
Glad to see it worked out

>>2917102
Being a Russian all I'll say is that we were notoriously bad with plastics even coming into the new millennium, it's not like an all-metal construction was specifically done out of principle, it simply couldn't be any other way.
To us it was a space-age material and you either got the "good stuff" that only made it's way into high-priced luxury items for the 0.1%, or it was shit that would yellow and crumble by today if not stored properly.

>>2917563

i know. your plastic is some sort of super fragile and shitty looking bakelite. but it doesnt matter, i was saying, in the end, some of those shitty $5 helios lenses will have longass longevity because of how they were made. full metal = almost all chances for restoring into proper working form, even after a century of being buried in dirt.

>>2917549
You will need to clean off any petrol residue. Some parts and additives don't evaporate so well and can cause hazing, separation and lubricant breakdown later.
Otherwise great job! I'd advise to get something called "Isoflex" or "Braycote" if you want viery fine lubricants that doesn't evaporate or break down later. Isoflex is very heat resistant, Braycote is teflon based and can withstand a wide spectrum of environment including the hard vacuum of space.

>>2917586
Thanks. I'm still cleaning the messy threads with paint thinner and solvent. I only managed to find some sort of silicon oil which should do for now. I need to get the lens in usable condition to see if the Zorki it came with even works properly.

>>2917615
Don't use oil. It will have parts of it evaporate and cause hazing in the optics. use silicon grease very thinly applied, something like Dow Corning silicon grease. Be aware that silicone grease dries out after some time so you have to clean and reapply the lubricant film every year.

>>2917620
Then the only alternative I have on hand is petroleum jelly. Does that work?

>>2917634
It will evaporate by the end of the day. You can order small tube of Isoflex or Dow Corning from ebay
I just realized some shops carry fine low friction bearing grease. If you want the higher quality try looking for it in extreme sports/skater shops.
Only apply a thin film. I usually don't go for it only as a last resort because I have access to special lubricants from work.

>>2917635
This is all I have. The label doesn't say what the composition is, I've used it for lubricating the angle gear on a brushcutter.

>>2917643
Go out and spend money on some decent lubricants. That petroleum jelly is not a useful tool, just a few minutes quick fix like WD-40.

File: 20160905_012.jpg (1MB, 3264x1840px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x1840px

>>2917649
Drove over to the nearest town and got some lithium grease. All set now, I'm out to give this old lady a spin. Thanks for the advice, guys.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	Jolla
Camera Model	Jolla
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution	72
Vertical Resolution	72
Image Orientation	Top, Left-Hand
Exposure Time	809/100000 sec
F-Number	f/2.4
ISO Speed Rating	100
Lens Aperture	f/2.4
Exposure Bias	0.8 EV
Metering Mode	Average
Flash	No Flash, Auto
Focal Length	4.22 mm
White Balance	Auto

>>2917664
Report back with some results