alright /p/, what the fuck did i just buy? what do i know:

>>2881826
There is a film general ^^^just there.
You appear to know as much or more about this film than anybody else on the board right now, so this thread is probably useless, unless you have a real question to ask.

File: kodalith.jpg (75KB, 385x640px) Image search: [Google]

75KB, 385x640px

Looks like orthographic "graphics arts" film. Kodak called it Kodalith. It's intended to be just black and white, no greys.

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File: IMG_20160329_120302.jpg (424KB, 1920x1080px) Image search: [Google]

424KB, 1920x1080px

>>2881844
This pleases me in my pants

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File: 00IjAO-33413784.jpg (785KB, 2282x3294px) Image search: [Google]

785KB, 2282x3294px

>>2881826
oh shit, I haven't seen that in a long time. Sheet film at that!
think Black and white, no grey. If it is what I think it is, the negs have an opaque silver mirror quality once developed.

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File: agfa.jpg (122KB, 811x600px) Image search: [Google]

122KB, 811x600px

Few things from various online sources. It's blue-sensitive and can be handled in darkroom lighting, which is kind of cool.

1. High contrast in lith (A/B) developer, normal contrast in Dektol 1:6 for about 5 or 6 mins, try and EI of about 3 to start

2.
http://www.ntm.cz/projekty/fototechniky/en/index.php?text=three

3. From a microscopy forum: Slides
...I print directly onto film, using an enlarger and mount the image in the super-slide frames (40x40mm) loved by electron microscopists and hated by projectionists. The image can be carefully framed and the contrast can be easily manipulated. The film to use is Agfa sheet film, so you will have to find your own supplier, and can be purchased in boxes of either 10x8 or 10x12. Use it as you would paper under an enlarger. For a soft image use "Litex premium camera film 0910P". For a harder finish use "Litex camera halftone film 0811P". These films are normally developed in Gevaline G7C developer, also from Agfa, which will produce high contrast but they can also be developed in D-19 for a softer contrast. I am sure that acutance developers will also work well. The film can only be handled in red light and has to be dish developed but the results are worth it. Try it and compare with camera copies. There is nothing like a big image to make your point.

4. Large format guys: You have acquired some discontf5inued graphic arts from a division of Agfa that no longer exists. The Lites 0811p is a 4mil high contrast, very high resolution film normally used for direct screen halftone and high quality line/type reproduction for offset printing. To get the most out of it you need the discontinued Resox developer although it may be developed in a normal lith chemistry at a developing time reduced by40%. And if nothing else you could sell it to recycle the silver. The HDU1p has the highest silver content.

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>>2881844
Since it's a print film, any reason why you'd want a high contrast negative instead of just developing the print for high contrast?

>>2882770
I knew one guy who did everything with a panchromatic positive black and white slide film and would create a large film negative using an enlarger.

Using an orthochromatic sheet film allowed him to make such a negative in the darkroom the way one would make a print. From there, he could make very detailed contact prints on paper.

This litho stuff, developed carefully to reduce contrast can do that with one extra step, with negative film.

Or, you can load it into a view camera and shoot with it.

File: clifton_solargraph_1118714c_6.jpg (25KB, 460x288px) Image search: [Google]

25KB, 460x288px

>>2881826
Solargraphy

>>2882852
what is the point of that? aren't you losing the same detail you would lose making a regular enlargement when you enlarge it to the sheet negative?

last bump.

also: can i use a mamiya tlr lens, a box and a 4x5 holder to make a large format camera? will the vignetting/falloff/lomoness be too bad?

>>2883043
I'm not really sure. I think he just enjoyed it and truthfully, his prints looked really really cool. He showed me the process once, but I didn't look at the contact negatives with a loupe. He had his own lens for the enlarger (was a public darkroom) and detail retention didn't seem to be an issue.

It was a really cool aesthetic, somewhat high contrast, and the prints looked really clean.