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Can we have a /ig/ climbing general thread? First off why is

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Can we have a /ig/ climbing general thread?

First off why is outdoor bouldering so fucking difficult? How many V0's do I have to send before doing a single V1? Seems like everyone around me is V4+ all day err day while I've been doing V0's for three weeks.
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Err /cg/
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>>951078
because you need to get familiar with technique and pain tolerance. outdoor problems are usually rated a little lower than in a gym
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>>951078

Depends on what is holding you back, and what sorts of problems you are attempting.

Like you, I'm a newer climber. I sent maybe a hundred v0's before my first V1 ascent, and several hundred before I could top most (but not all) V1 problems.

Last night I sent my 2nd V2 ever - a decently overhung dihedral with slopers all the way up. I've been putting in at least three hours per week every week, mostly focused on volume of movement.

If you're not really getting up anything, you need to sit down and identify why. I'm betting it's not a strength issue - almost anybody has the strength to pull jugs up a v0. From there the first place to look is at your footwork. To quote Better Bouldering, "Repeat after me: I will put as much weight on my feet as possible at all times, especially on overhangs. Amen."

You may also want to examine your physical and mental flexibility. How willing are you to try out new movements just to see how they work?
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>>951131
Thanks, that was helpful. Where do you boulder? I can do V0's pretty consistently now. I'm going to practice near the ground riskier moves like heel hooks and edging on small features. I have found that I often underestimate whether I can pull off a move, particularly if I need to release one hand and hold my torso stiff so that I don't barn door.
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>>951200

Heel hooks are of modest utility on beginner stuff. The more overhanging the climb, the more important they become. But you shouldn't necessarily be working roofs yet. If most of what you are climbing is steeply overhung, it's probably going to be a good long time before you move up the grades.

It's up to you whether or not that becomes frustrating. It shouldn't, though. If you're frustrated doing V1 moves you're going to be frustrated doing v10 moves. It's a state of mind.
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>>951078
Grades especially at the lower ranges are just general pointers. I'd say you'll be able to do a V1 if you're able to do V0 of same style really really well. I'd encourage you to repeat the problems you've done to work on refining your technique.

Film yourself climbing something hard for you. I'm sure we'll be able to give you some pointers.
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>>951215
>But you shouldn't necessarily be working roofs yet. If most of what you are climbing is steeply overhung, it's probably going to be a good long time before you move up the grades.

I disagree. If anything climbing steep or roof problems really helped me progress as they made me focus on the technique. I'm fairly weak tho maybe if I'd were a bit stronger that would not be such a good idea.
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Climbing grades are hella subjective for one. A V1 where you are at may not be the same difficulty as a V1 elsewhere. Also climbing is something that for most people will be difficult to get good very quickly. I've been climbing for a bit over 2 years now and I've only ever sent one V5 outside, when I send V6s in the gym that I go to on the regular. Be patient, keep working at it, and you'll improve! Climbing is my favorite way to get /out/
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OP here. Can't believe it but I sent my first V1 today: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qTwN3TLTzE (2x speed)

I start flailing around at 0:16 through 0:31. Was trying to find something pull myself up. Ended up going back to my original hold and getting horizontal.
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>>951949
When stemming on a slab try no to push yourself up but move your leg a bit to the outside so as you're pushing you're moving your bodyweight over the foot you're standing on. Easier to stand up, easier on the core.

The angle of video is a bit strange plus it's a slab not much to critique here. Try to film yourself on something physically challenging. Failed attempts more then welcome.
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>>951656

Probably not.
Volume of repetition is the most important part of mastering movement skills. If you're fairly weak, climbing steep overhangs is going to drastically limit the number of moves you can pull in a session.

But then again, if overhangs are what get you excited to climb, then they may be a better learning tool for you. People learn in lots of different ways.
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