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I've found some kind of knife sharpening stone, but I know

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Thread replies: 13
Thread images: 4

File: 20170627_202939.jpg (3MB, 3984x2988px) Image search: [Google]
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I've found some kind of knife sharpening stone, but I know nothing about it. Help identifying it so I can figure out the best way to use it would be appreciated.
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File: 20170627_203501.jpg (4MB, 3984x2988px) Image search: [Google]
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File: 20170627_215207.jpg (3MB, 3984x2988px) Image search: [Google]
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I've found some more stuff. Which of these things am I supposed to use, anyway?
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File: 20170627_215214.jpg (3MB, 3984x2988px) Image search: [Google]
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about 20 degrees, use water for lubrication

start with the coarse, then work your way to smoother and smoother stones
in other words, go rough to smooth with your stones
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>>1047316
Looks like a regular Carborundum / Silicon Carbide benchstone.

Darker side is the coarse, light side is med/fine.
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Also, the Smith's and Carborundum stones need lapping.
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WATER + SHARPEN!!! WHATS NON TO GET?!!!
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>>1047522
They're oil stones
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>>1047518
Do I just take some sandpaper to them and wash the bits off?
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>>1047614
Only the fine Arkansas and the med Aluminum oxide on the Smith's can be lapped with sandpaper.
Wetndry 36 grit works best.

Silicon carbide stones can't be lapped with wetndry, because it is also silicon carbide.
Cheapest way is to spend an hour or two rubbing them on a concrete sidewalk until flat, occasionally dipping in a bucket of water.

The DMT does't need lapping and is ready to go. Red = Fine grade
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>>1047885
Is that just to make it level or is there another purpose?
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>>1048034
It's to remove the dip, which helps keep your angle consistent.

And more importantly, refreshes and levels out the stone.
Because as the stone wears, some parts wear more than others and instead of a smooth layer of abrasives you get a bumpy one.
It makes the stone less effecient and impedes proper feedback.
Thread posts: 13
Thread images: 4


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