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I have a 2014 FRS and I'm getting ready to put in a sub+amp.

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Thread replies: 12
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I have a 2014 FRS and I'm getting ready to put in a sub+amp. I really like loud and obnoxious car rattling bass, but I also like sometimes to have smooth vibrating bass for rides with the ladies. Is there any setup that would allow me to switch between the two at will or am I forced to pick one or the other? What would you suggest for a good sound setup?

Feel free to make fun of me if you desire, as long as you offer advice.
>>
>What would you suggest for a good sound setup?

Sell your car and buy a new luxury sedan/coupe (Porsche 911, C63S AMG, etc.) those things have amazing audio systems and will sound better than any shit you put on your current car.
>>
>>17710648
>Sound system
>FRS
>For the ladies
You almost had me until you mentioned the vibrating bass for the ladies
6/10 bait
a little bit of subtlety goes a long way
>>
A quality sound system with a bass knob inline so you can turn it up or down. 12s are generally thicker and looser, 10s are tighter, 8s more so, 10s are probably a good balance. Ported or sealed is your other decision to make. I'd look into some kind of 10s/12s combo if you wanna be a trunkpacking nigger, or you can just get high quality 12s and adjust them. I run Alpine Type Rs in sealed boxes, only 1000 watt amp when I should have a 2000, still destroys shit or can be more subtle if I turn down the bass.
>>
File: linear power amps.jpg (153KB, 1377x770px) Image search: [Google]
linear power amps.jpg
153KB, 1377x770px
>>17713273
>12s are generally thicker and looser, 10s are tighter, 8s more so

This proves you have no fucking clue what you're talking about.

OP: a properly designed subwoofer system, one that takes into account the space available in the car, along with the driver's Thiele-Small parameters, will give far and away the best performance.

You cannot put a random speaker into a random box and expect it to perform. You *must* to the math first.

It's called a stereo system, because all of the part must work together to provide optimum performance. I know it sounds trite, but it's absolutely true that any system only performs as well as it's weakest link. You had this asshole recommend a 1,000 watt amp, when he has no idea how big your alternator is, and if it can support such a beastly amplifier.

That's right, before you even start designing anything, you need to learn as much about your car as possible, and the first thing is knowing how big your alternator is.

Find out how big your alternator is, and then subtract 60 amps. Any modern car takes 60 amps of juice just to run down the road, once you turn on your headlights and HVAC system.

Now that you now how much juice your alternator can supply, figure out how much air space you're willing to give up to have a box.

Now that you know those two numbers, you have an idea of how big your amp can be, and you know what kind of box you're working with. Now and only now can you choose an appropriate speaker that will work in your box, and live with the amp that matches your car's electrical system.

There's way more to it, but unless you specifically ask, I'll stop for now. It's already tl;dr
>>
Anyone who puts custom audio equipment in their car can douse themselves in gasoline and light themselves on fire, preferably in their shitbox with a system worth 4x its value
>>
>>17713355
Oh shit we got an audio autist.


Who gives a fuck m8 do what I do and throw some cheap 12 inch subs in a cheap box and throw a shit ton of amps at it.

Then watch as everyone stares at you in disgust.
>>
>>17710736
My infinity kappa 6x9s and usa 15" memphis sub disagree

Over 1800w RMS
>>
>>17713368
>bought ef civic for $50
>crx hf engine for $150

And i have around 1200 in audio

>50mpg and god tier sq/spl
>>
>>17713387
>bought ef civic for $50
>crx hf engine for $150

Is this car 80% rust?
>>
>>17710648

>can no longer use the trunk

But why?
>>
>>17710648
fuckin equalizers how do they work
Thread posts: 12
Thread images: 2


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