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When do you just say "fuck it" throw in the towel and

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When do you just say "fuck it" throw in the towel and get a different car?

Got one of these and am tired of putting money into it, but at the same time love driving it and want to see how far I can take it before it totally dies.
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Having owned a few cars now, it goes in this order:

Not fun to drive.
Body damage.
Powertrain failure. This is debateable.

Otherwise I just keep fixing stuff when it comes up. My labor is free and I like knowing the job is done right.

Btw accords are pretty low maintenance. You will be severely disappointed by anything else that doesn't have a warranty.
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>>17402941

Normally I've been able to fix whatever has broken on it and do preventive maintenance, but the clutch and master slave cylinder is going out and that's the one thing I cannot do. It's a fun car but I know it's going to be an arm and a leg to get done.
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When it's not viable to fix, e.g. it won't pass inspection without huge amount of money and/or time. And if inspections or emission tests weren't necessary, I'd drive it to the ground. At least I feel this way of my car, but the again I'm very fond of it because first car and it has always been in my family.

>>17402957
Personally this might be my limit of patience too. Are we talking time, place, tools, money limitations?
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>>17402957
I see. Let me put it like this:

If you sell it now, nobody will want it because of said problems. You will take a financial hit towards your next car from the poor resale.

If you take it to a mechanic, it will cost about as much as it's worth right now. Its a wash.

If you fix it yourself, you lose a day but have something you know will last the next 60,000 miles.

IMO, the longer you have a car to know it's problems, the more at ease you are. When I buy a new shitbox, I don't really know it's condition unless it's got a lot of records.

Thus, either fix that sonuvabitch yourself or finance a new car. Its not worth buying used cars if you don't plan using your own labor to fix it.
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>>17402996
A clutch job in an Accord that old, no matter what condition, will cost more than the car is worth by a good deal. It's probably a sub-$1k resale at this point, and probably $1k for a clutch job at a somewhat reputable shop
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>>17403011
A running standard accord with no rust, okay paint, and a clean title will run around $2k in Colorado. A sketchy clutch would probably sink it in half. That's what I was going by.
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>>17402979

Tools and place mainly.

>>17402996

Nobody would buy it one way or another, it's got 406k on it. Also, aren't clutches supposed to last more than 60k? The last one on this car was replaced at 210k.
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>>17403046
I'm amazed you've kept it that long. Bravo.

And it depends: conservative drivers can keep their factory clutches until the car dies. Aggressive city driving can cut it to even 50k miles.
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>>17402957
Honestly I'd give that clutch replacement a try. It looks difficult but it really isn't. If you can find any local import car Facebook groups, maybe you can find a local Hondafag to do it for you for cheap. They're all over the place and would love a little bit of money for something they can do blindfolded.

Those Accords are one of the most reliable things Honda has ever built. I was replacing a bunch of shit on my Civic but I got to the point where everything is caught up and I only need to drive it.
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>>17403064

Thanks, it's literally the one car I've done everything to keep it running. Good to know about the city driving, might explain why it's been getting worse since I started doing more of it.

>>17403069

I'll probably start looking locally then. Aside from the dreaded timing belt/pulleys/water pump and suspension parts, this car has been rather solid. I spent 2 years looking for a rust free coupe and this was what I could find.
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>>17403086
Yeah the coupe model 4th gen is easily my number 1 favorite Accord. I'd go as far as to say a clutch replacement would be easier than the belt and water pump, or at least the same difficulty.
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>>17402901
As a former owner of a CB7, I understand your situation.

I bought my 1990 Accord for $1,000 in 2013 for my newspaper job; it was in an alright condition, it had a rear seal leak, but that was the only mechanical problem at 217,000 miles.

The biggest issue was the demand required in delivering newspapers with this car, which ended up wearing it down prematurely, especially with the brakes, tires, and cv axels, which ended up needing to replaced in a matter of a couple of months rather than years.

I decided to save money up for a down payment on a 2005 Honda Accord, last year, after the CB7 clocked just over 300,000 miles - the engine and transmission were running fine, but I didn't want to spend any more money on it than I already have and it was after I ran into a house due to sleeping issues from my delivery jobs.

I kept the newspaper job for several more months before I decided to end it; my CM5 hasn't faced any major issues, but it has developed a power steering leak before I quit my job. Regardless, I've only had to replace my tires once, after quitting, and they still have plenty of tread after 6 months; I've only replaced the brake pads twice. I just wish I didn't have to finance it.

The CB7 is an excellent car to have as a daily driver and I loved (and miss) driving it. I'm sorry you're having issues with the one you have. You could always get another one or a different gen and sell your current one.

You could also get a Toyota Camry or Corolla, but the MacPherson suspension makes them feel too soft for my taste.
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>>17403144

As much as I'd love to get a newer one, they get stolen like hot cakes around here. Nobody wants a CB7 because they've all rusted out, which brings me back around to how hard they are to find. I'll just push this thing till it can't go anymore. Maybe by then another will pop up or a Acura Legend 6speed coupe
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>>17403191
I guess you live in the Sand Belt?

I don't see this kind of problem in Atlanta.
Thread posts: 15
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