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Hello, I recently purchased a Stick Shift, as my old car had

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Thread images: 4

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Hello,

I recently purchased a Stick Shift, as my old car had been totaled, and I'm not exactly rich, and this one had low miles, good on gas, and my Dad and Brother both know how to drive a stick so they said they would teach me.

Thing is, they aren't exactly the best at teaching and often times start yelling or getting ornery.

The only issue I have is really starting from a stop sign or light. I know that you need to ease the clutch out slowly, while giving it gas, then let go completley of the clutch. Sometimes mine are very transitional, other times, clunky as hell, but I can still go, and other times, I clunk it out completely.

I've read guides, watched Youtube videos, etc. I guess nothing beats just plain practice, and I feel like maybe I should do it by my self.

There is a parking lot not far from my apartment complex, and I'm wondering if I should just go there one day and practice, practice, practice, until I can start completey from a stop. Even if it takes 3 hours or something.

But that also isn't the most feasible as I work long hours, and when I get home from work I just want to lay down and literally have almost no motivation to do anything. Even on my days off, I have to *try* to do things around my apt, spend time with my fiancee, just general stuff.

Also, I hear conflicting reports on when stopped at a light or sign. Some say keep it in neutral, then clutch and shift to first, while others say keep the clutch down and car in 1st gear. Is there a reason for this? Is one better than the other? It seems as though keeping it in first would make the start quicker, instead of going from neutral to first then going.

Also, any other tips appreciated. Once I'm going, I don't have an issue with switching gears, as most don't.
>>
I also am pretty tall, and often the reason I let the clutch out too quickly or something is my foot gets caught on the clutch and between the floor, so it's hard for me to do that correctly. I try putting the seat back further, but then I'm further from the wheel, which I suppose isn't the biggest issue, since I have long-ish arms.

So, any tips, any good youtube guides, and good text guides, all appreciated. I realize nothing really beats just pure practice, though. It's just a bit of a confidence loss when I clunk out with traffic behind me.

What about turning, some say put it in neutral, and coast through turns, then shift back to whatever gear your speed was at or around.

Thanks.
>>
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Practice taking off without any input on the gas pedal.

It's a matter of clutch feel. Once you know exactly where the clutch bites you'll be fine.

>Stop light, clutch in, first gear
Don't do this. It's hard on the throw out bearing.

>Turning and coasting
No. Shift before your turn and leave it there. You should never coast in neutral. Ever.
>>
>>17180908
What kind d of shit cunt country lets people who passed in an auto drive a manual.
Fuck off, learn to drive in a manual next time.
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>>17180976
America.
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>>17180976
>usa #1
>land of da free
>all other countrys cucked


>pay 45$
>drive around da block for 5 minutes in automatic
>get license
>usa #1
>>
>>17180955
>You should never coast in neutral. Ever.
Not even to a stop?
>>
>>17180976
A country that doesn't suck. A manual isn't brain surgery and any neanderthal can learn it easy.

If your country splits this type of shit up, your country sucks balls.
>>
>>17181104
I presonally see no problem coasting to a stop in neutral.
As said, downshift before a turn, and practice stalling the car to figure out where the clutch bites.
Once you learn where the clutch bites, the next thing to work on is the bain of any manual driver's existence, the hill start. Depending on the angle of the hill, it can be simple, or if can be complicated with you also working the handbrake to keep from rolling back.

A lot of newer cars make hill starts in manuals easier with a feature usually called Hill Start Assist or some variance. It keeps the brakes and brake lights on for 5 seconds when you take off on a hill. IIRC, it uses yaw angle sensors to tell when it's on a hill.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lB9LL15xu0U
>>
>>17180955

I don't think you know how a manual works if you honestly believe that throw out bearing bullshit. When you shift to neutral and let the clutch out, this spins the input shaft. When you put the clutch back in, the shaft has momentum and keeps spinning, so when you shift into first the synchro has to act like a brake and stop the shaft. This is multiple times more expensive to repair. More importantly, you want to be able to launch your car in a hurry in case some dumbass behind you doesn't realize traffic is stopped. Quit spreading false info.
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>>17180908
If you want to get off here's a tip from someones who has been relearning manual.
So you ease out clutch and ease in throttle right?
Try not to put too much before the clutch grabs and too little after.
You should see tacho jump down when clutch grabs if you don't give it enough gas. That means you're giving it little throttle, enough to spin fywheel and half of clutch but as soon as clutch grabs driveshaft and wheels it needs more.
Just practise, when it jumps down put in more.
>others say keep the clutch down and car in 1st gear. Is there a reason for this? Is one better than the other? It seems as though keeping it in first would make the start quicker, instead of going from neutral to first then going.
I always shift to neutral when I don't need to go for a while wether that be stop signs or lights.
When it goes to yellow or when I spot a gap big enough for merge sub 5 seconds ahead, gear in and prepare for take off.
Don't keep clutch down for too long, it'll wear out throwout bearing.
It's a little bearing that acts on clutch spring and disconnects it. If you hold down clutch you'll disconnect a spinning clutch and that bearing will be pushing on the spring and spinning causing wear.
If in neutral nothings happening. And you get to rest your foot.

>What about turning, some say put it in neutral, and coast through turns, then shift back to whatever gear your speed was at or around.
Here's what europes driving schools (and racing schools) say: be in gear you need after the corner before you get to the corner.
Since I drive a very grippy midengined car I shift down while braking and get the approperiate gear.
But that's just me taking corners way faster than needed and wanting to keep power on midcorner.
You can probs just brake, select gear, coast w clutch while turn in and start accelarating out of the corner (the way it was taught here in regular driving schools)

Hope it helped.
But at the end of the day I'm just another europoor busrider
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>>17181137
hill start isn't bad. Just burnout. Or heel-toe and transistion to gas from there
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>>17181191
If you're forcing it into first the moment the light changes, then sure, you're onto something. If you're even a slightly decent driver you know when your light will turn green. If the light changes colors and you're completely surprised, please get off the road. You can be prepared for a takeoff before the light changes color.

The throw out bearing, or clutch release bearing, works when the clutch pedal is pressed. This is common knowledge.

>>17181104
It's not good practice. In my six years of driving, only once has not coasting in neutral come in handy that I can think of.

Really doesn't take long to blip the throttle and slide back into gear if necessary.
>>
>>17181579
honestly i just downshift to 3rd or whatever and then once im doing 25 or so mph i just neutral and come to a stop
>>
>Starting from a stop
The key is learning the bite point and embedding it in muscle memory. As an exercise, leave the handbrake engaged and bring the clutch up slowly. When you feel the car 'squat' a little, you're on the bite point (probably not advisable to try this with a rear-wheel drive car, in that case perhaps practice holding the car on a slight incline using only the clutch and the running engine). The key to a good start is bringing up the throttle just before bite point and releasing the handbrake the very moment beforehand. Don't release the clutch pedal completely immediately after the bite point - keep bringing it out smoothly to allow the engine revs to match the road speed.

>when stopped at a light or sign
If you're near the head of the queue and may need to move soon, try keeping the car in gear and the clutch pedal depressed so you can start promptly when the time comes. If you're a few cars back and can anticipate when you'll need to move, leaving the car in neutral is more comfortable. In both cases the handbrake should be engaged until movement is imminent.

>>17180912
>I try putting the seat back further, but then I'm further from the wheel, which I suppose isn't the biggest issue, since I have long-ish arms.
Are you sure your steering column can't be adjusted? Often there is a lever on the underside of it which can be released to allow you to position the wheel as you choose.

>What about turning, some say put it in neutral, and coast through turns, then shift back to whatever gear your speed was at or around.
You're not fully in control of the car unless the transmission is engaged. If you can't slow down sufficiently for the corner without bogging the engine, select a lower gear (if you're in first gear or reverse you can control your speed with the clutch pedal, but be extremely gentle with the throttle as you do this).
>>
>>17181104
>>17181137
In a civilised country, you would fail your driving test for coasting. As you slow to a stop, the clutch should be engaged until just before braking will cause the engine to stall (timing is not crucial).

>>17181237
>Operating control other than the steering wheel when driving on a public street
The appropriate speed and gear for the upcoming turn should be achieved before turning in.
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>>17181796
I took my driving test in an automatic 2006 Nissan Maxima SL.
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>>17181125
I actually kinda wish the US did because it might make standard transmissions more common
Thread posts: 18
Thread images: 4


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