How can i best tweak my suspension to cope with lift off oversteer,

>>16886964
Stiffer front springs might help.
You could also just put wider tires on the back to help the rear keep traction when you lift off.

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Not sure, but heres a rally inspired 911.

Air cooled ass engine nazi sleds are my fetish.

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>>16887056
BONER ACTIVATED ALL SYSTEMS GO

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>>16887093

>>16886964
spoilers help too.
Or stop being a pussy and don't lift.

>>16886964
Buy a car with good suspension, like an alpine.

Alternatively, more neutral understeer via less tire pressure on the front tires. It's still remarcable that people still insist on filling front and rear tires with the same tire pressure despite knowing that one end of the car is heavier than the other.

Like for example, in a car with a 40/60 weight distribution equipped with the same tires front and rear, the front tires should have 60% of the pressure of the rear tires. Like if the rear tires are pressured at 2,6 bar, then the fronts should be pressured at 1,6 bar.

>>16886964

Tie a brick to your shoe.

>>16886964
>disliking liftoff oversteer
seriously, round-a-bouts will never be the same

>>16889146
If you are serious about tracking your car, the only adjustments to the pressure should be made based on temperature, not on axle load, otherwise just tweak a little bit from the manufacturer recommended pressures.

I don't know why you think that a 40% weight difference warrants a 40% pressure difference, which is a whole fucking lot.

What you usually do if your car is track-only is to understand what temperature the tires work best, then set a first cold pressure, then track the car a few laps, check tire temperature and change pressure accordingly.
If temperature is going too high, you bleed some pressure, if it's too low, you raise the pressure.
If it's too hot in the middle compared to the sides, you bleed pressure, if it's too hot on the sides compared to the middle, you raise the pressure.
There are a lot of factors influencing tire temperature apart from pressure: spring rates, ARB stiffness, camber, alignment and driving technique being the most important.

The fronts will most likely get hotter than the rears unless the rear slides a lot (which shouldn't happen anyway) because they are the most loaded in the most demanding situation (braking and turning).

Once you reached a satisfying temperature, you let the tires cool down to ambient and then check the pressures again. They will most likely be all different from each other and the rears will probably end up lower in pressure than the fronts. Use these cold pressures to have a reference for whenever you track the car again.

Street tires usually have a much more forgiving (and lower) optimal temperature range, so they allow you to experiment more to better suit your driving style.
Basing tire pressure on weight distribution alone is wrong and probably counter productive.

>>16886964
Stiffer dampers at the rear, softer rear ARB, lower rear pressure, less LSD coast blockage and, most importantly, being less abrupt with the gas pedal.

>>16886964
applying the brakes is far worse than lifting off the throttle

>>16891923
Because understeer and oversteer balance translates in a difference of slip angles between front and rear, and if the rear tires have to cope with one and a half times the load the front tires slip angles have to be adjusted. Ideally you'd fit bigger tires in the rear, but rarely do these cars have sufficiently large tires in the rear (for the case considered, it'd have to be something like 225 front, 335 rear - you'll notice that's pretty close to what 911's are carrying, although they have a less extreme weight distribution so a less extreme width difference as well.

The other thing is that there is a difference between the track and the street; just stiffening the front/softening the rear isn't enough because that stabilizing effect stops working once the front wheel lifts off the ground, which is easier on a street car because of higher CG, less width and little to none downforce. Optimizing tire temperature doesn't really work either because they'll nearly always operate colder than their optimum on the street, even on a winding mountain road. And you want more LSD coast blockage to increase understeer when lifting off, not the opposite.

>>16891993
Yes but what I thought was that usually snap oversteer happens when the rear is suddenly unloaded, so the solution to the problem would be to give more mechanical grip at the rear or to slow down the unloading of the axle via stiffer dampers.

I get what you say about load and pressure, it makes sense, but I don't know if OP wants a track car or a street car, for track cars you usually want to use tire temperature to adjust tire pressures and on MR cars I've seen rear tires with lower pressure than the front pretty much universally. I don't have much experience with RR so I'm just speculating here.

I agree on street tires and public roads you can't really use temperature as a reference, but that's pretty much the only measure you can get. Basing tire pressure on load alone seems inefficient to me

A 40% difference in pressure for a 40% difference in weight seems way too high tho.

>>16891940
Except it literally isn't

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>>16892038
The damper thing was pretty much correct though. The reason rear heavy track cars might use higher pressures on the front than the rear is that tires have less maximum grip than optimal when their pressure is away from maximum, be it due to too little or too much. So putting too much air also does the job of adding more understeer, without the danger of overheating the tires due to under inflation. however for a street car it's unlikely the tires will overheat, and the car will feel more stable on straight lines and at slower corners.

Basically under or over inflation will lower the peak grip, but over inflation will make a steeper slope while under inflation will increase slip angle. Of course, for OP's situation over inflation will also do the trick.