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I'm considering a '91 RX-7 with good mileage (my p

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I'm considering a '91 RX-7 with good mileage (my personal dream car), but I wanted to ask a few questions:
Is it possible to get a hardshell top to replace the soft convertible one? I'm guessing for obvious reasons neither are at all safe really.
Is a rotary engine that unwieldy to deal with, even if its got low mileage and is taken very well care of by myself?

https://hickory.craigslist.org/cto/6015347879.html

This last one might be laughable... But in the near future, is it feasible to think that it might be possible to convert it to an electric engine for fun after the engine dies? Kinda exposing myself as a retard but I guess I might as well ask.
>>
No. Find a hardtop or stick with a convertible. Not worth it and costs more than buying a hardtop

Rotaries are shit, but quite easy to fix and rebuild.

If you want to pay a fuckton for an electric drivetrain, then go for it.
>>
>75,000 miles

It will easily do another 75k, another 100k if properly maintained.

>Is it possible to get a hardshell top to replace the soft convertible one?

The only hard top verts are one off custom jobs, so no.
>>
>>16755234
How many figures am I looking at to do a custom job on it and make it hardtop down the road? Sad to hear that btw. but...
>>16755209
sounds awesome, I'd love to learn my way around a rotary
>>
>>16755190
As far as I know there is no hardtop for it. Just replace the ragtop if it leaks and you won't have any issues. The roof of the coupe won't do anything to save you in a rollover. The windshield frame offers effectively the same protection (your odds of surviving unscathed go from 1x10^-10 to 1x10^-11), so the difference is just weight and stiffness. The convertibles came with an aluminum hood to balance out the added weight, but that means you can't just swap hoods to drop 30 pounds. As far as stiffness, door bars will bring you back to coupe levels, but can make it awkward to get in and out with the top up.


150-250k miles is likely if you maintain it well.
>>
>>16755190
Shit you need for an electric drive train

>Emergency break
>Pot
>motor Controller
>Motor
>Batteries
>Lugs
>Wiring
>Contactors
>Contactor Diode
>Contactor resistor
>battery management unit
>custom transmission mount plate
>custom motor mounts

Batteries being the most expensive part of that by far
>>
>>16755294
DIY? You just need a coupe you can borrow, a tub of lard, four 4x8 sheets of fiberglass, and $50 worth of epoxy resin. Also, time. Lots of that.

If you want to pay someone to do that, and to make it look reasonable, you're talking at least double the price of the car, and probably payment up front so you don't refuse to pay if it comes out ugly, leaving them with a hard top no one wants.
>>
>>16755332
Motors are pricey, too.

http://www.go-ev.com/End_User_Pricing.html
>>
>>16755332
>>16755377
So I'm looking at like 10 grand in addition to the price of the car?
Thread posts: 9
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