What audio set up do you have in your car /o/? What should I

>>16507262
Keep it stock faggot. Use that 1k to pay your loan down faster like a responsible adult.

>>16507271
I don't have a loan. I bought it.
Stock is fucking garbage

If you have 6x9s I got these. They're incredibly powerful.

JBL GTO938 6 x 9-Inch 3-Way Loudspeaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003KN2TGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_C9PFybEMY2JD2

>>16507271
Keep in my I'm not a retard. I didn't plan on cutting the car up. Just gonna replace the tweeters, speakers, and put a sub in the boot. I'm not going to go full retard

>>16507277
Did you put them in yourself? What car?

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>>16507305
I put them in my truck, it was a lot easier than anything you'll do.

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>>16507275
>I bought it.
>Stock is fucking garbage
Why do you even have a budget then?

How much louder do you really need music to be?

>>16507368
HUURR ONLY DIFFERENCE IS VOLUME

K Y S

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>>16507368
loud enough to think everyone is impressed when they actually just think you're an annoying cunt

>>16507367
Do you just have nothing upstairs why does this need to be explained?

It's stupid to spend more than a grand on car audio.

1000 dollars will more than cover what you need, and you could get a professional to install it if you really wanted to.

>>16507368
For 100 dollars you can completely replace a stock audio system that will be worn out and muddy in a few months with something that will last until you sell the car.

>>16507389
>It's stupid to spend more than a grand on car audio.
ah, to be 12 forever, you're living the dream man!

>>16507446
Have you ever heard the phrase, To live and let live?

>>16507448
yeah, but unfortunately you annoying cunts drive on the same streets as the rest of us

>>16507454
You don't know where I intend to use it, how loud I intend to play it, or how often.

Stop making assumptions about anonymous people on the internet, and stop getting so triggered by what you think other people will do. It's embarrassing.

>>16507473
okay junior....I'll just assume and hope you never leave your parent's driveway so those assholes are the only ones being annoyed by their cunt of a child

stay golden ponyboy

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I have 2004 Mazda 3.

My HU is a Bose unit from a 2009 Mazda 3. I had to hack the CANBUS to get the unit to work, but work it does! I chose that unit specifically because even though it's a "stock" unit, it has no internal amplification. It's a "dead head", that is, it has 5V RCA preamp outputs *only*.

From there, it goes to my BBE SM-4012 Sonic maximizer. I won't build a stereo without using that piece. It's pure amazing.

The other piece of my puzzle is my PPI PSC-221 Phase Shift Controller. That's another piece I won't build a stereo without. It really gets the bass right up front, and makes the soundstage and center image ROCK-FUCKING-SOLID. That thing is a miracle worker.

All of my Quarts speakers are German made from the 90's, pre-Rockford Fosgate buyout.

Fact is, all of my components and speakers, save the HU, are from the 90's. Back before Chinese made garbage was shoveled onto our shores.

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How the world really sees OP

>>16507494
>I spend every day of my life upset because people are younger than me and project that on to every one I meet

You've got some growing up to do bud

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>>16507508

>>16507511
says the 12 year old that wants to go boom down the street

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>>16507508
My processors in my glove compartment

>>16507518
>twelve years old
>owns a car
Your logic is retarded

>>16507522
How do you fuck with that while driving tho

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>>16507518
>>16507510
>>16507494
>>16507454
>>16507446

the salt

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>>16507550
>>>/facebook/

I doubt you can even drive, posting shit like that. Like jesus man

This retard is actually having a panic attack lmao

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>>16507532
>fuck with that while driving

You don't. You do your major eq and crossover tuning in the garage. Took me about 2 hours to get it pretty listenable. You set it and forget it.

What I did fuck with while driving was my PSC-221. I made an umbilical back to my hatch, then drove around with it on my lap for 5 days, just making tiny adjustments, playing with the settings. Luckily, there's only two buttons and two knobs to fuck with, so it's not distracting.

I used Jennifer Warnes' "Famous Blue Raincoat" to dial everything in. It's been said that disc is one of the very best recordings that has ever been made, and it is pretty amazing. IASCA used to use "Ain't No Cure For Love" off of that disc in their competitions.

When I finally hit "the spot" with the PSC, I swear, I got fucking goosebumps on my arms. It was almost magical when the soundstage finally came together.

After that, I permanently mounted it in the amp rack in the hatch.

>>16507580
>>16507522
>>16507516
>>16507508

This is pretty slick man, and yeah there's just some shit you can't notice until you're on the road, wind noise, buffeting, vibrations etc. What's the exterior look like? Done anything else to it?

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stay golden

>>16507598
Rest of the car is stock.

I have my stereo setup that no matter what I play, from AM talk radio to Led Zeppelin,
From Busta Rhymes to Frank Zappa, it plays it perfectly. The only knob I have to adjust is the volume.

Some of my favorite CD's to show off the stereo is Alice in Chains Unplugged, Bachbusters, the aforementioned Jennifer Warnes, and Mazzy Star "So Tonight That I Might See".

>>16507580
okay but how does sunbather sound

>>16507633
okay but what about sunbather

>>16507508
Jesus Christ, you're just as bad as hipsters who swear by vinyl
PPI got bought by the same company that owns Soundstream and there's nothing wrong with them, I had a Sedona series from about ten years ago that I still have and is a great little amp
As far as MB Quart is concerned, you're right, since MAXXSONICS(not Rockford) bought them out they're speaker quality has gone to shit, but they have pretty decent amps considering they use the same shit higher end HiFonics uses
Yes there's a lot of cheap shot out there, but there's some decent companies out there like NVX, RE, MMats is still around as is Earthquake

>>16507639
I have less than $600 in my entire stereo, including all OFC power and speaker wiring (yes I ran new wire to each speaker), sound deadening. the custom interconnects that I made myself. I mostly used DIN plugs, look closely at the pic, you can see them. My processors run off of Phantom Power via the DIN's, not 12vdc.

To get a new amp of the same quality of my PPI's, you're going to be spending BANK.

I know all about the new stuff that's actually worth having, I just can't afford it. Sinfoni, Zuki, Linear Power, Mmats, Mosconi, Milbert, uDimension, Mercury, Genesis, etc. All outstanding stuff that I would love to run for sure.

>>16507715
What would you run if you had the money?

>>16507773
Unlimited funds?
Alpine F#1 Status HU and DSP, Milbert amps to Linear Power mids and tweets, Linear Power amp to Acoustic Elegance subwoofers.

>>16507262
>What audio set up do you have in your car /o/?
When pricing out the new car, the cost of installing 3rd party over the OEM premium upgrade made buying the option package very tempting. It's just that the sound system options package was bundled with sunroof and some other things that made it another $1900.

So I opted to get the basic sound system which is component fronts and speakers in each rear passenger door. The sound is surprisingly good. The rear dash is missing the two larger oval rear speakers and the subwoofer. It is already drilled for all the parts. From how it looks, it looks like the rear dash was supposed to have an amp box mounted under it to drive the subwoofer.

In the future, I may get a small amp and small lower power subwoofer. I only want something to fill out the very bottom to add a slight "chest thump" feeling from bass drums. I won't swap out the OEM speakers yet because their impreciseness means the sweet spot is large instead of precisely focused in the center. As a driver, my ears are not in the center after all. I do want better speakers though. While they are imprecise, they are also muddy.

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>>16507508

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>>16507262
Professional bass bro reporting in.
Insightful TLDR incoming.

Literally a fucking ton of options at a thousand. You could either go full sq will an image dynamics 12 or nearly 150db spl build with a Skar TXL.

Let's see. Before I start, there is a million different combinations. I am only recommending the best of what I know.

I will not be including receiver for two reasons. Most people already have one or two, you can get a $10 amp level rca if you want to keep it stock. Your call.

*For the sq build*

Infinity REF-4555A. $300
Image Dynamics IDQ12 D4 V4. $230
Now I can't give an estimate on speakers because I don't know your size restrictions. Look for anything in component kits from Infinity, Image Dynamics, JL is OK if you like paying twice what they are worth and bragging about it. Crescendo, Focal, Morel all excellent choices. You should have enough money for any of these options left over. Then get a Sky High 4 GA kit. $30

*SPL build* OK, so this is a build that gives the middle finger to your sound quality and goes straight to an utterly insane amount of sound pressure.

XS Power 3400 battery. $260
Skar TXL 12. $320
Sky High Car Audio Big 3 kit. $40
Skar RP-2000.1D $230
Sky high car audio 1/0 cca kit. $60. (since you aren't going above 3000 watts CCA is fine).
Then take the rest of your money and do some research on building a 3.6-4 cubic foot box with a port tune. After that enjoy rattling every single car next to you at every intersection. This is a very, very loud build. Especially for starting out.

*SQ, SPL balanced build* A build that's balanced in SQ and power output.

RE Audio SXXv2 12 $200
Soundstream TN.1200D $150
JBL GX-A604 $150
XS Power D1200 battery $200
Sky High Car Audio 4 gauge amp kit $40
Belva 8 gauge amp kit $12
Then get components or speakers from either JBL, Image Dynamics, Skar, Infinity, Polk, NVX, Alpine, Mclaren, Crescendo or CT Sounds, your call. All of the above are fine to great.

rockford fosgate p300 12 inch powered sub in the trunk. its alright, hit nice and vibrates the car, think of upgrading but im not a nigger

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C5s have a god awful Bose stock system. Literally worse than a $30 boom box. With $300 I replaced the door speakers with Kicker 6.5s and installed a 12" in the back. Pic related. Make sure to add a capacitor. It's cheap and will help in the long run

>>16507262
I'm looking for a setup for my integra gsr Coupe because every speaker (two front two rear plus two tweeters) are fucking blown. 6.5 inch.
Is installing these things hard? My main worry is having to spend 1k at a shop for the speakers plus installation

>>16510108
Professional bass bro here.

Sound quality, spl, or balanced?

>>16507262
>current set up
Sony CDX-GT50UI
Alpine SXE-1350S
Alpine SXE-1750S
Reactor RA-302
Sony XS-LB12S

>honourable mentions
sony CDX GT 200
Sony XE-90MKII
sony xs gt1627a
sony sx gtf6937

sony apm 66es mk2
EAS-16P33GG

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>>16509911
>Kancolle in your trunk

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>>16510602
Yeeaaap. that's me. this is also me.

Probably the best place to ask, my door speakers will change balance randomly, for a while it will be fine then one will stop then itll swap to the other.
Is it the wiring causing this or is it the head unit?

>>16510717
professional bass bro here.

Probably the receiver. Is it stock? When wires are bad they either phase out or don't work at all. I suppose by extreme luck one speaker keeps phasing out when the other is phasing in... Again, very unlikely. Just change both. Wiring is immensely cheap. Receiver, eh... If you you don't want the typical receiver that /o/ hates then I guess go get a crappy stock one again.

>>16510136
Balanced I guess

>>16509911
fucking hell this is kind of overwhelming
Will I have to rewire the entire system? Or are the stock wires in the car enough?

Is crutchfield a good source of info?

>>16509911
Is there even a point to replacing the head unit in the 2017 mazda 3? That thing is so expensive to begin with. Is it shit?

>>16509911
fuck this is such a big help

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Pro bass bro here to answer questions.
>>16510740
Since your budget is the same as OP, look at the bottom of post>>16509911

>>16510813
It's always a good idea to rewire. If you are asking if you don't have to, no not really. If you are asking if your sound quality will take a hit, depends greatly on stock vehicle system. If you are Mazda 3 guy I would suggest you change the wires. Now amps, obviously. You will be setting up wires from scratch. No big deal, it's not hard. YouTube tutorials will show you how easy it really is.

>>16510817
Not sure, never installed in a Mazda 3. Chances are it's atleast good enough. Usually they are solid, honestly. You could do better but you could also do a hell of slot worse.

>>16510833
Rock on.

>>16509911
>JL is OK if you like paying twice what they are worth and bragging about it.
JL is also good if you want to support American business. I've walked through their factory and watched them make speakers. All this other shit is made in China. Might sound just as good, or even better, but I think if I was going to negro up my car I'd stick with Made in Burgerland.

>>16510602
>>16510644
lay off the Doritos fatass

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>>16510930
No. Absolutely not true. JL makes the W3, W6 and W7 woofers in the U.S. The W0, WXv2, W1 and most amps in China.

Also, not a winning argument at all. Still hugely paying for a name considering the Image Dynamics IDMAX 15 is almost 1/3 as expensive as the W7 13, sounds just a good, is a stronger, more powerful driver and is made in the U.S.

Further more, both FI and RE Audio absolutely obliterate JL for how much you get per cost of driver. RE XXX is a $700(half of JL's best) sub that produces 2000 RMS of SQ and is also made in the U.S. and that's before the FI Q NEO Shits all over the W7 in SQ and is made to order in Las Vegas.

If you REALLY want to support an American name in car audio go RE Audio or FI where ALL of their business is in America, they sound good to excellent and is competitively priced. JL is the IPhone of car audio, the Bose of car audio. They are a meme. Casuals think JL is the only pure SQ option, just like casuals in home audio think Bose is their only option.

>>16511009
Well I feel like a dumbass. Thanks for the info bassbro!

Is JL good for marine audio?

Why is JL falling behind? Did their ownership change the last decade or are they just slow to come up with new products?

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>>16511026
They became Bose, unfortunately. They got lucky, built solid equipment and word of mouth propelled them to super stardom. JL is now sought after ONLY because of lack of people having knowledge of better brands and doing research in a massively saturated market.

I will say this, they make a solid product and the W6 and W7 sound phenomenal. But while JL has been using the same technology for the past decade a few other companies have become more ambitious and focused on building woofers specifically to out power and sound better than what was once the pinnacle of an SQ driver. Now the pinnacle is either the XXXv2 or the Q neo and both of which cost a massive margin less and output considerably more power while sounding as good and being made in the U.S.

But it really doesn't matter to JL because nobody knows those names. JL is still the most known in SQ and that's why the W3-W7 still goes for such a massive premium.

>>16511093
Sad. Looks like in 1996 it had an ownership change:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JL_Audio
Is that when things started downhill? Or was it later?

The RE XXX was a popular driver when I was in college in the mid-late 00s.

I have to imagine car audio in general has taken a big hit as an industry. I see less and less people modifying their cars. It used to be stock audio systems in cars were garbage, now they are good enough where most people don't feel the need to upgrade. My Meridian system in my Range Rover isn't like a high end aftermarket system, but it sounds good enough.

Used to be I'd walk into Best Buy and see a huge car audio section, now it's just some sad isle in the back corner. There are still some car audio shops in my city (Miami) but not like there used to be.

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>>16511126
The RE XXX was popular in the SPL competition crowd. Problem was it wasn't built for them. RE built subs specifically for output while sounding as good as possible and bass addicts loved that. Then the XXX came out, was advertised as an SQ driver but the SPL crowd expected an SPL sub so it flopped in its own fan base based on ignorance and false expectations.

Things went down for JL the second they realized the massive gold mine they were sitting on. And started selling their name more than their products. Probably around 2009, really.

Not really sure car audio has taken a big hit or not. I know competition based car audio is growing. Sundown is arguably bigger than JL now!!!


>Used to be I'd walk into Best Buy and see a huge car audio section, now it's just some sad isle in the back corner. There are still some car audio shops in my city (Miami) but not like there used to be.
I think is has more to do with online retailers selling for so cheap and most serious brands either selling at extremely specific shops or online only. Shit, I've never even seen a T2 at Best Buy or circuit city.

>>16510813
>fucking hell this is kind of overwhelming
If a connector has a "bad connection" that can also happen. As the car vibrates or the wires vibrate, the loose connection makes connection again and your audio reappears. Bad connections can also happen with dirty connectors.

>>16511173
I'm lost. You said the XXX was popular with the SPL crowd, then they came out with the XXX and it was a SQ driver? Are you talking about different versions or something?

Yeah the XXX when I was in college was the big basshead driver.

There used to be this website where people posted videos of esoteric subwoofers running and doing crazy shit, you know the one I'm talking about? Maybe it is still around even, I just forget the name. Imagine now people just do that on youtube.

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Stock non-bose w202 setup with woofer and tweeter up front. Two woofer in the back door plus two high-filtered woofer in the back.
All hooked on the Excelon KDC-X592

>>16510911
Integrafag with blown speakers here. Is it worth it to pay a shop to install them or should I do it myself? I'm worried about fucking something up cause I'm a monkey with a wrench when it comes to wiring

>>16511126
>ow they are good enough where most people don't feel the need to upgrade.

That's not the main factor. All the new non-economy models of most car companies no longer use a simple rectangular DIN or DIN2 shape on the console. The buttons may be custom shaped and located on curved fronts sculpted to fit the console aethetics. Or the radio is integrated with the car's touchscreen controls. If you yank the radio, then the touchscreen might have errors on it or not work at all because it is getting its LAN connection via the radio box.

In my car, the radio controls are mixed with other controls and the big pushbutton on/off is off to the left side far away from the other controls. It's sculpted and curved across the whole front set of control button surfaces. And behind the buttons there is not enough room for a DIN or DIN2 headunit box. No aftermarket radio will fit in the dash. It would have to be installed in the trunk and the factory radio kept in the front to handle the touchscreen too.

The manufacturers have found the way to get you to only upgrade to their premium system by legally integrating controls on the console. If you yank out the factory unit from its LAN, the other controls will also go dead. In my case, customizations for door locks, air, heat, headlight response, etc, all those are gone. A 3rd party unit won't have the license permissions to communicate on the LAN. So it is stand alone.

>>16511694
>Is it worth it to pay a shop to install them or should I do it myself?
Speakers you can always do yourself. But you'll need to understand how to remove your trim to access the speakers. See the archived dynamat thread for door trim tool examples.

>>16511742
What a shame, you are absolutely right.

>>16510644
>>16510602
underage b&

>>16511688
no, it was getting hyped in the basshead community. The RE MT got people's hopes up that it would be a louder, more powerful version of the MT but it wasn't. XXX came out, alot of people tried to like it. It was nearly $1000 when it came out too. Keep in mind the Holees was around at that time and stomped the xxx flat in spl. Even the HCCA was keeping up with the XXX and that was half the cost. Again, people tried to get the XXX to get loud and we're underwhelmed, completely oblivious to the fact it was an SQ driver, not an spl driver. What I'm saying is it was popular by hype for a little bit but never really loved... If that makes sense... Then U.S. amps aquired RE in early 2010 and Scott made FI... And that's where the NEO Q comes in. So the two best SQ drivers around are made by the same team. Kind of funny.

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>Peerless D5.25 in the front
>Rainbow DLX6 in the back
>Magnat XTC 15"'s in the trunk
>4-way 100wrms GZ for speakers
>2-way 1600wrms GZ for subs
Exterior-wise it looks completely stock, stock grills on top of speakers everywhere, just a bigass box in the trunk. Only thing that actually looks different about the audio when you sit in the car is the HU. Wiring is professionally done by myself.

>>16507262
So speaker-wise, you have a lot to work with.
Because as long as you dont wire things together like shit, $20 pairs have potential to sound better than a lot of these fags out there who buy $200 pairs and get their gay uncle with poor eyesight to put them in.

Aftermarket head units are simple. You just need the bracket, wiring harness, antenna adapter, and the unit (and steering wheel controls adapter if you NEED it). Each of those smaller parts will cost around $20 from Metra and you can get a headunit with bt, aux, and usb for about $100. Just make sure you get a headunit that doesn't look like its from Tron. Theres a couple out there that look better than others.

Subs are the hardest part so I'm going to divide it into two.
>If your trunk is connected to the cabin or you have a spot to put the box under the seats
One 10 inch sub should be fine for quality in this case. $75 for a Kicker from Best Buy and about $70 for a shallow enclosure.
>If your trunk is closed off from the cabin
I could only get enough bass from two 10 inch subs. So $150 for two subs, $120 for a double enclosure.

You will also need about $60 for a wiring kit and the remainder of your budget (if not more) for an amp that doesnt sound like shit.
And when buying amps remember that more peak watts =/= better quality.

I'm running 4 pioneer 6in (I think), 4 2.5in tweeters, and 2 10in subs with a $700 amp I dug out a boat.

>>16508472
That is just so, so fucking wrong...

>>16507277
Mazda/Ford takes 6x8, faggot (source: I had a '07 Mazda 3 with upgraded speakers)

>>16507305

Here's how you into car audio without falling for Jewish tricks. The world of car audio is full of overpriced ripoffs out the ass that you can avoid if you know what you're doing (electrical engineering student here). Since I don't know what you do/don't know about car audio so I'm just going to assume you know nothing at this point.

I'd do JBL GTO8608C 6x8 components (might be discontinued but I'm sure you can find it somewhere) in the front and JBL GTO 8628 6x8 coaxials in the rear. I honestly don't think you need to amp those speakers, these things are highly efficient at half the resistance of your typical 4 ohm speaker. Believe me, the stock head unit gets plenty loud on my '07 with 4 ohm speakers as is. $140.

You'll want to high-pass the speakers if you're going to have a sub handling below ~90Hz. To do so, you'll need a 880uF capacitor (4x220uF nonpolar capacitors in parallel) for each of your 4 speakers: 16 in total which is only $12 on Digikey: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nichicon/UES1E221MHM1TO/493-10828-1-ND/4317802

For the sub, I'd get the Pioneer GM-D8601 ($107). Alpine Type R dual 2 ohm 10" 1000W (that amp is capable of 800W RMS with a 1ohm load) and buy a sealed enclosure for it. You'll need to run 4 gauge power cables to the subwoofer amplifier. I believe the stock radio has a remote turn-on wire you. You'll have to look at a wiring diagram.

To get the signal from the factory radio to the sub, run a set of speaker wires from the speaker level inputs on the amp and tap into the signal going to either the front or rear set of speakers. Splice the positive and negative leads at some point before the crossover capacitor to give it the full-range signal. Set the low-pass crossover dial on the sub to ~90Hz.

Total cost: should be ~$425.

>>16513758
Stores still sell lots of those and I don't mean big box stores like Fry's, but dedicated quality car audio shops. I asked one salesperson at Car Toys why do people buy those, and he said they are easily removable and free up space in the trunk. A permanent installation would lose a lot of trunk space and some people find that unacceptable.

is it a waste to run speakers at Root Mean Square ?
just that amp are mesured in PMPO
and the speakers respond in RMS

>head unit
52 PMPO X4
?? RMS

>front speakers
280 PMPO
45 RMS

>rear speakers
400 PMPO
50 RMS

>amp
150 PMPO X2
150 RMS (bridged)

>sub
1500 PMPO
380 RMS

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here is a plan of my sub box made to fit in the back of a lift back type of car

>>16515700
Define PMPO.

Oh, you can't? Because it's a bullshit number. It literally means anything the manufacturer wants it to mean. Personally, I would avoid buying a product from any manufacture that advertises "Max Power" or "PMPO", because they are liars, and I don't abide liars, and I *especially* won't give my hard earned money to a proven liar.

>>16514334
>half the resistance of your typical 4 ohm speaker
>electrical engineering student here

You're an extremely shitty EE if you don't know the difference between resistance and impedance.

>>16515135
I was talking about mixing different types of speakers.

Can it be done? Sure. BUT, using the Thiele-Small Parameters and some careful calculations, you have to do it extremely carefully, and make sure there won't be any phase issues through the frequency response of the drivers. I feel certain that the owner of that shitty careless didn't do that.

I got $20 that says that owner of that monstrosity probably doesn't even know what TSP's are.

in my 91 ef hatch

>6x9 infinity KAPPA 3 way in large sealed
>doors 5.25 infinity kappa coaxial with butyl rubber door install
>RE Audio 4 channel 100 RMS x4 @ 4 ohm 4 channel amp
>SKAR audio monoblock 1000w RMS x 1 @ 1, 600w RMS @ 2 ohm
>upgraded alternator from stock 60A to 130A
>single 15" Sundown E-15 V.3 dv2 subwoofer
>3.25 ft^3 vented @ 32 hz
>SSL 2/3 way active crossover
>sony headunit (next to change)
>mediabridge 12 AWG OFC in-wall speaker cable
>4 AWG OFC copper welding cable for power distribution
>big 3 upgrade from stock 8 awg to 4 awg

probably one of the better systems on /o/

Get a diamondboxx

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAzenl3feLY

>>16514334
>high pass with caps instead of a cheap active x-over/pre-amp with tuning capabilities

electrical engineer with autism maybe

>>16507271
>Keep it stock faggot. Use that 1k to pay your loan down faster like a responsible adult.
Paying for a car on credit, LOL

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>>16516086
it is normally the peak of a the amplifier output wave
and only measured over a short period of time and over a narrow rage .eg 20 khz only
it's the max wattage that can be put into the speakers before they fail completely

older speakers have it listed differently
technics sb 2450
120 watt input
60 watt music

in effect the speaker looses 60 watts in the form of heat and being unable to respond to the peak of the amps output

>Personally, I would avoid buying a product from any manufacture that advertises "Max Power" or "PMPO"
enjoy not buying anything

>>16507262
Stock (ish it's a dealer option) head unit with Focal K2 speakers in the stock door & dash pods.

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>>16513301
I don't really want to replace the head unit. It's a touch screen that costs about 600 dollars. Surely its good enough for whatever I put in the car?

Should I pay a professional to install all of this? Or should I do it myself? I REALLY don't want to fuck things up. I'm sure I could learn, I'm just not sure its such a good idea to do it with this car. I've already watched a few tutorials and it seems doable, but about a day of work (for me at least). I have a buddy that may be able to help

So one thing to keep in mind, I don't want to cut or screw in to ANY of the trim or body anywhere. Is this possible at all?

A little more information. It is a 2017, Mazda 3 5 door (hatchback), with 6-1/2" component speakers for front and rear.

Lastly, will changing the battery, alternator and capacitors void the electronics/bumper to bumper warranty? I can ask my dealer that but they're not open at the moment.

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>>16516147

"Watts" are pretty much only somewhat valid when a speaker has a linear impedance curve - which they never do. Check out the impedance curve of the speakers you mention.. being ported, they are guaranteed to fluctuate a lot.
At certain frequencies, this means that you will reach xmax (voice coil travel) long before you reach the thermal limits/"watts".

"Watts" are equally useless for describing amplifier power for the same reason; different amps perform differently outside their preferred impedance area even though they will have the same "1000 watts @ 2 ohm < 0.010 THD".

I just want to say thanks to everyone that's commented in this thread. You guys have been a big help

>>16516351
God damn that thing is beautiful. What does the back look like anon?

>>16516431

it looks like cancer embodied

the belt line is fucking ridiculous
the random creases are horrible
the grille would make a blind person cry

the original 3 hatch was perfectly okay designwise, why did it get worse with each generation?

>>16507368
what the fuck does volume have to do with quality are you retarded?

>>16512838
Okay interesting. Thanks.

What do you think of Focal?

>>16516411
head unit runs
2x 52w @ 8 ohm
4x 52w @ 4 ohm

current sub amp
2x 150w @ 4 ohm
1x 300w @ 2 ohm

sub is Sony XS-L124P5B in a 1 cubic foot volume sealed enclosure
380 rms

recommended amp is more like
1x 290 @ 4 ohm
1x 500 @ 2 ohm

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>>16516411
>dips down to 4-ohms
Are car speakers not very efficient? Seems like you always have to use these giant ass amplifiers for such a small space. Why don't they make efficient car speakers that only need a low amount of power to go loud?

>>16516714
>Why don't they make efficient car speakers that only need a low amount of power to go loud?
I think it is to do with the cars having 12 volt electrics

>>16516782
They used to. Cerwin-Vega ruled the roost in the 90's with their highly efficient designs.

But then Hoffman's Iron Law will always kick in.

>Small Box
>Low Extension
>High Sensitivity

You may pick only two.

>>16517033
Seems like most car stereos are willing to have a large box. And the door speakers are generally infinite baffle right?

>>16507262
>enjoy not buying anything

There are plenty of reputable manufacturers that aren't liars still out there. Of course, none of that stuff is sold on Woofersetc or Sonicelectronix, so if that's your end-all and be-all of audio component knowledge, I'd expect that you wouldn't understand that.

>>16517033
with ev and hybrid cars having 200 or 400 volt systems it might be possible to have 8 or 16 ohm

I do some times come across 6 ohm speakers
but they are all super old less than 10 watt

>>16517063
I'm retarded, but, why couldn't you have a 8ohm speaker on a 12volt system?

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>>16517068
I do not recall the numbers properly and this does depend on the quality of the amp and how the wireing is done

4 ohm amp can run 8 ohm
8 ohm amp can run 16 ohm

but going lower than normal hurts most units more

like 2 ohm for a car amp
or 4 ohm for a house amp

>>16517068
It means your amplifier has to raise the output amplitude to drive more current through the speaker's effective impedance.

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if done in parallel this could blow up the amp

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been so long since I did any of this
some old two channel amps have a lever that does it automatic when set to A/B

other wise the lever is on A for the front speakers
or B for the rear speakers

a few modern two channel amps do this but and pretend to be four channel until you dig into the manual to see the real rating

>>16517068
You can. You absolutely can. Fact is, he higher the impedance, the higher the BL of a woofer, and the higher the damping factor of an amp. And those two numbers being higher means more cone control and thus less distortion.

As an additional bonus, when amps are run into higher impedance, they operate in high voltage mode, instead of high current. With high voltage, the amplifier becomes much more efficient.

Only problem with all that is, the state of car stereo is so fucking backwards for the most part, the manufacturers keep pushing high current because it tears up more amps and speakers, and with the warranty not worth the paper it's printed on, that means additional sales for additional profits. And the profit margins on junk Chinese made garbage is so thin anyhow, they need to make money wherever and whenever they can.

All hope isn't lost though. My Holy Grail amp, a Milbert BaM-235ab operates best at 16 ohms, and my second favorite brand of amp, Linear Power works best at 8 ohms. I'll probably never be able to afford Milbert, but I do run Linear.

Can anyone recommend me subs that are 8 ohms? My amp is designed for 8 or 4 ohm loads

>>16507262
How are these Fusion speakers?

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Just ordered a bunch of stuff, some from Europe so it won't be here for a bit. Going to go iSimple ipod adapter -> RCA to CD changer input adapter -> this 1990 Blaupunkt receiver -> Pyramid EQ/booster from the late 80s -> two Polk DB461Ps in the front and two Rockford Fosgate 6x9s in the back. Might add a small amp later, depends on the output from the EQ

>>16517915
Good to know, thanks. That's really strange.

The Milbert looks crazy. Wouldn't tubes make it sound really warm? I have an old (home) tube amp and it sounds nice but it for sure is colored. Those Linear Power amps are interesting too. They have power specs that seem more in line with what makes sense in a car too. I imagine you don't power huge XXX-like subwoofers with those? You instead use more efficient ones?

Is Dynaudio still good? I remember when I was younger that was the SQ brand in my area people seemed to like.

>>16517952
I've used the marine speakers (I work for a boat manufacturer), the speakers were just okay but they probably make the best marine headunit out right now that I've tried.

>>16518134
The deal with Linear is, they have the highest dynamic headroom in the industry. 7 dB! That is absolutely *unheard of*. A guy named Mike Flanagan recently won a MECA World Championship using Linear Power amps on Sundown X15 subs and LP mids and tweets. His install is crazy good and insanely good sounding.

>>16516468
pro bass bro here.

Some component sets or mids can't achieve high spl while maintaining a soft listening soundstage. Skar components and cresendo components are particularly good as this soundstage.

>>16518516
Sorry *can achieve*

>>16517981
>Pyramid
While it is absolutely true that Pyramid and Boss both did put out very certain WORLD CLASS amps in the 80's and 90's, they are very, very rare. Each had one specific line that was worth having, the rest was pretty much junk.

I hate to break it to you, while your Blaupunkt head is absolutely fucking killer, that Pyramid booster is most assuredly *not*. Definitely the weak link in your stereo.

The only EQ/Boosters that were worth a shit were made by Alpine or Clarion.

>>16518516
What's your setup, pro bass bro?

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>>16518643
I'm actually not sure it's even a Pyramid. It's labeled Phase III, and later on Pyramid used that name as a model, so I assumed it was made by the same manufacturer. It was $50 and BNIB from 83 so I figured can't hurt to try. I missed an Alpine EQ for $280, last few have gone for nearly $500, if the right one comes along I'll grab it.

>>16509911
audio noob here

My stock speakers are alright, not the best but I can't afford a completely new system. My sub recently went out and I've been thinking about upgrading to something better.

The sub currently has its own amp, and isnt connected with the rest of speakers. Do you have any reccomendations for subs for a <$300 price? Nothing too crazy, just something to give some oompf to the music.

I've been looking at ones like https://www.amazon.com/MTX-RT8PT-Universal-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B005FXFS8G/ref=sr_1_20?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484876764&sr=1-20&keywords=subwoofer+car

in order to save space. Thx for any help

>>16520062
So you have a factory system where the sub went out? Or is an aftermarket subwoofer? And which part went bad, the driver or the amplifier?

>>16520251
Its a stock sub, i replaced the amp to see if that was the problem but it didn't work

>>16514334
the cap is to minimize the DC bias of the circuit making it resemble AC more closely? I think a few (mostly me) of us would appreciate a more comprehensive explanation of the cap role in this design.

What kind of car? How much space do you have?

>>16520385
The capacitor in this setup is a 6dB/octave high pass filter. It's simply a crossover, the simplest one you can make.

Ever heard of a "bass blocker"? Well, that too is just a cap.

The cap filters out the low frequencies that the speakers aren't designed to reproduce, thus decreasing distortion.

>>16520591
awesome tidbit! Thanks!

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>>16518643
Just came in the mail, maybe somebody knows something about this thing, any guesses? It's made in Korea.

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>>16520829

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>>16520837

>>16520611

Not the same bloke but if you need to go the other way, as in your require a low pass filter to remove high and mid frequency content, you can use an inductor either air or ferrite core. The inductance in Millihenries is proportional to the filter frequency where the core material is proportional to the slope value.

Hertz ECX 165.5 in the doors
JL Audio 10w3v3 subwoofer in the trunk
Unknown MTX speakers in the back from previous owner

It sounds great, but the sub rattles the shit out of my spoiler at high volumes.

>>16518411
Foxbody mustang owner here. I want to go back to stock. Currently the car has a sound system including sub and amp. However, it only works intermittently. Sometimes it does, other times it doesn't. Sometimes as I hit bumps or move it around different speakers will stop or start working .
Kinda want to get rid of it and put stock type stuff in there. Do I really need an amp and sub? I'm not trying to waste my valuable hatch space.

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>>16520829
this one is same as yours but information on it is not forthcoming
http://geb.ebay.com/g////////ImportHubViewItem?itemid=272424382728

the brand name TENNA brings up many results

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ecualizador-estereo-TENNA-PHASE-III-SAE-8600-de-frecuencia-/122268816964?_ul=CO&nma=true&si=5CwHTS0RsWoj1m4cFPRWUemKN%252F8%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Vintage-Tenna-Pyramid-Phase-III-100KIT-/132034550969?hash=item1ebddf5cb9:g:8CgAAOSwA3dYUY4U
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Pyramid-Phase-III-tenna-stereo-speaker-system-/152094202868

>>16521626
Whomever did your install didn't know what they were doing. Thats why you are having problems.

Sure, you can go back stock. Go on eBay, find a factory tape deck or CD player, install it. They should be pretty cheap. Hopefully the asshat that installed your stereo didn't cut your factory harness. And no, you don't need an amp or subwoofer, unless you are trying to recreate the Mach 360 or whatever they called it stereo.

Honestly though, I wouldn't use OEM speakers. The OEM stereo, fine. Just not the speakers.

>>16521626
Aftermarket stereos are for trashballs, switch it back to stock.

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>>16521626
>However, it only works intermittently
check for over heating or bad power connections to the amp .eg phase-neutral-earth

>Sometimes as I hit bumps or move it around different speakers will stop or start working
sounds like you need to check all the speaker wiring
check the joins and connectors first
many types of crimp joint fail early due to bad metal contact or not having good strain strain relief

use a terminal block near the head units Wiring Harness (there are many smaller types)
use solder crimps with shrink wrap on wire joints subject to water and vibration (doors and such)
use bullet and space connector for long singular wires that you may want to disconnect (such as wire for turning amp on and off)
use spade or hook terminals on sub woofer amp (some types need this)

I have tell you only about the most durable and easy to use types

>Do I really need an amp and sub
no but without it you are missing out on at lest 1/3 of what music has to offer
many songs have subtle melodic bass lines not made apparent if you have weak mid and low range speakers

>>16520476
Did you even read the full op?
What's your problem man?

>>16523940
The fuck is your problem?
How do you know that was OP asking the question?