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Yesterday after work my remote key fob declined to work. I thought,

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Yesterday after work my remote key fob declined to work. I thought, huh better change the battery. Once I did it still didn't work so I set to testing the fault.

The original battery was still +3v from 3.4v so it wasn't actually the battery. The new battery also tests fine. The terminals are clean and test closed across the circuit and I've got continuity across the board within the fob and the switches even test good. I get a voltage drop when activating the switches suggesting that the RF transmitter is doing something at least.

So I guess the RF transmitter within the fob is either faulty or the receiver within the car is faulty. I can't think of a way to test the transmitter except maybe to macgyver up a simple resistive loop and diode circuit to see if I can induce a current which will tell me if it is transmitting or not, but that isn't going to tell me much else, the voltage drop suggests it is doing something. I can't even find any information on where the receiver is located within the car or think of how to test it. The locking system wiring and fuses are otherwise fine as the central locking system etc all functions correctly when powered up.

Any suggestions? These things must go wrong all the time because people carry them around with them.
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Go to a dealership.
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>>16297237
I get the feeling that the dealership is going to charge me stupid money to connect it to a computer and then charge me stupid money to produce a replacement key and then constantly hassle me for follow up jobs for minor maintenance and service via any details I leave them. I've tried to avoid giving them any details when I had them sort out a few product recall issues the previous owner neglected to take it in for, they are pretty good at offering a complex sales/customer service thing, like I just want to talk to a mechanic.

This is a boring anecdote, but like the time I called up looking for a replacement hub nut and correctly sized spacer for a roller bearing they said "sure you can come in and talk to the mechanic, they'll provide the right one". When I got there they made me 'book in' with a sales person, decline buying a new car a dozen times. Listen to all the trade in offers (I got lots of coffee). Eventually I got to speak to the mechanic who told me he was a technician not a mechanic and he'd be happy to book a diagnostic session with the mechanic at a cost of £80+vat, or he could direct me to the sales team who could tell me about all the great trade in offers available at the moment.

Fuck those guys.
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>>16297290
Try your spare key first. Does it happen to be and 08 or 09 nissan?
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>>16297300
I only have one key, the previous owner lost the old one. Either way the car was supplied when new with one remote key and one standard key.

I mean, I can still get into the car. It has a passive immobiliser chip within the key, the remote lock/unlock shit is separate.
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>>16297232
Your car manual should tell you how to clone another one.

For example, my 2016 GM Malibu Limited has a keyfob cloning device built into the center console. Buy a generic keyfob at Lowes, put it in, insert my good key into the ignition and start the car and turn it off and do some other things. The new fob is now programmed or more accurately, the car now accepts that new fob.

No dealer was needed.
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>>16297232
did you tried to pair the key with the car ?
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>>16297859
This one is kind of difficult. Also it raises an interesting point. When the key is inserted if I carry out the sync procedure the car reacts, all doors lock and unlock. Seeing as the fob has no other means of communicating with the car other than remote RF transmission it would suggest that both aspects are working and I'm just looking at some other exotic fault like maybe an almost flat main battery.

Basically the key has the immobiliser chip built in and this all works via an inductive coil in the locking barrel with or without any remote functionality, which while attached to the key blade actually might as well be a separate unit.

The remote fob can be synced once when it is in the ignition and detected by the car in the presence of the correct immobiliser chip, after that point it will no longer accept a rewrite without a special reset code you've got to pull off the onboard computer.

I guess I could get a 'blank' remote unit. Replace that with the old off on the key. Insert the key and immobiliser chip and attempt to sync the new fob with the car.

Ahh fuck it. I don't know. None of this shit is particularly cheap, like half the price of the whole damn car.

I think I'll try fucking around with the sync process and trickle charging the main battery. I've tried fucking around with the sync process though. I can't understand why it would attempt to sync if the unit is faulty because it has no direct connection, it must communicate remotely. Maybe though the car goes through the physical motions of syncing irrespective of whether that command was accepted by the fob?
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>>16297308
O I was assuming you had a push button start car fob.
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>>16297308
>I only have one key, the previous owner lost the old one.

I never liked those "I lost the spare key" stories. They always made me feel the car would disappear out of the driveway one day and be used as the getaway car in some crime.

>>16298100
>I don't know. None of this shit is particularly cheap, like half the price of the whole damn car.
Your fob looks very similar to my GM fob and the generic ones sold at my local Lowes. They were $76 USD this past March and I have not checked with them again. There may be other shops selling them too. Of course, my stealership sells them for $299. Rip off when Lowes is obviously not selling them at a loss. I say stealership not lightly. The other dealership 35 miles north of me is a dealership and not stealership. It's prices for servicing are more reasonable which makes me wonder what my local stealership is using for "book price" that they claim to be using. It's book price for alignment is $179 while the other chevy dealership charges $68 everyday regular price. The OEM AGM battery at the stealership parts department is roughly 11% higher price than at the other chevy dealership.

Stealerships must have some different version of MSRP, book repair price, etc. Or it is just lying about book price or using some weird lawyer technicality to inflate prices and time set by the manufacturer in those official books.
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>>16297290
>I get the feeling that the dealership is going to charge me stupid money to connect it to a computer and then charge me stupid money to produce a replacement key and then constantly hassle me for follow up jobs for minor maintenance and service via any details I leave them
You should be able to resync the keyfob after replacing a battery. And check your manual to see how to have the car recognize another keyfob.
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>>16297237
>Go to a dealership.
They rip you off on blank keys, chipped keys, and transponder keys. My stealership charges a research fee for each key on top of the key blank fee and the cutting/customization fee for the key. Thus, an old style unchipped non-secure key for an old chevrolet cavalier costs $28 each from my chevrolet stealership.

Home Depot and Lowes have been able to make car keys for years. That includes chipped keys and transponders. Obviously, the transponder still needs to be synched to your car but lots of cars will synch up as long as you have one real transponder in your possession. So if you are down to only one transponder, you should make a duplicate while you can still avoid the dealer. Otherwise, the dealer will sell you a blank transponder at a high cost, then charge you the research fee for the code to energize it in their dealer-only keyfob programmer, and then charge you the fee to program it. My car already has a programmer in it to duplicate keyfobs, so it is annoying to have to pay the dealer to do it, but of course they won't sell it unless they do the entire process for max profit. Just like doctors that have you by the balls with high costs because they can.
Thread posts: 12
Thread images: 2


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