Ok. So i'll get straight to the point
I'm a faggot that by /o/ standards I don't understand shit about cars.
So, choose the Perfect car for me having this in mind:
>9000 to 14000 € in PORTUGAL
>NOT FWD
>idgf is it's Diesel or Gasoline
> +150 hp / Good engine atleast
> No ENORMOUS gasoline drinker
> No ENORMOUS expensive maintencance
(by Enormous i mean, it doesn't have to be Cheap.. but no Super car expensive please)
>3 or 5 doors, as long as it HAS ATLEAST 4 SEATS
>Not to OLD as family unfortunately wont approve
>Preferably liked (atleast a 6,5/10) by /o/
So, that's all. Go.
Have in mind the fucking Portuguese prices, as here we fokin get Opel Astras for +/- 8k and shit....
>inb4 do your own search
I already did, and I found nothing good as I am a feggit and can't find good cars for it price. So help me out
Don't let me be just another shitty car faggot
Only let me be a faggot.
Peace
come on, help a feggit out.
I cant do this shit alone
Atleast tip me with only one car ffs
>>16266735
All 150+hp non-fwd cars are 1) enormous gas drinkers, 2) expensive to maintain and 3) old, because new standards make it even harder.
For anything more specific, define your limits more accurately.
You may be looking for something around a Legacy GT if it's going to be a family car.
>>16266735
Well I think your best bet would be to
>Not to old
Kill yourself.
Buy a hatchback, mk4 golf 2.0L
Safe, 5 seats, good on gas. Fun-ish handling if you ignore the slow
BMW E46?
It's a gas drinker, but I wouldn't say it's "enormously" thirsty. If you can't get a good 6 cyl example for 14k€ in Portugal, you should consider moving to a different country.
>>16267002
After ten years, get ready to change each and every rubber seal BMW has hidden in the E46 engine compartment, because they will all leak. Learn to love the smell of motor oil on hot exhaust.
Replace coolant pump just in case.
Camshaft sensor is about to go.
Crankshaft sensor is about to go.
CCV and piping needs cleaning or replacement.
Replace rear light modules because previous owner "fixed" the ground contact issue after connectors melted.
Replace cabling and the rubber snorkel to the trunk lid, half of the cables are already broken and shorted. With luck electric lock motor still works.
Ignore rattling noises from the engine bay, it's just the VANOS time bomb tick-tick-ticking.
For god's sake do not put silicone on door seals, the squeaking will drive you nuts. If previous owner did that, rag and isopropanol, go over seals until clean. Find silicone-free grease if necessary.
Ignore clunky sounds from down back. Maybe subframe is intact.
If your roads are salted, body is already starting to rust.
Bleed it right when you change coolant or cooling or heating may not work. Even repair shops sometimes fail this.
VVT no stops learned code? No worries, can still drive, just fucks up the fuel economy. Badly.
Clutch judder / bouncy about-to-throw-engine-out-the-car shaky on clutch slip? I hope not. Start on 3rd, 3000 rpm, plenty of slip, maybe it'll fix itself.
Just make sure it has a complete maintenance and repair history and previous owners have fixed all of these. If not, expect them to hit you.
And as a bonus, if your roads are worn grooved and you really want low profile tyres, expect premium tires make it very interesting and lively to drive straight road. Fix by setting minimum camber (less than factory spec) in the front, ignore mechanics who say there is no adjustment, they just need to file some more room to the front shock tower mounting holes. Or install adjustable kit. Rear end, 1 degree less than front, no less no more.
And HF.
boa sorte com isso lel
por esses valores só arranjas com mais de 200mil km
o mercado de usados por cá é uma merda gigante, mesmo sem considerar os stands