Hey fags, just bought a "new" DD, and I'm wanting to replace the brake pads and rotors. Any good but not too expensive brands? I was thinking of getting EBC's, but thats going to be a last resort. I don't want shitty Autozone stuff either though. My DD is a 2006 Toyota Avalon.
>>16011381
Buy Premium Centric Rotors of Rockauto
http://www.centricparts.com/products/centric-premium-brake-rotors
Do not get slotted, or drilled.
Pads... just dont get race/track pads. I think street is the normal stuff, but just so you know, with any aftermarket pads like that, they work well only when hot. So when you're driving on the highway, and start braking for that off ramp, your pedal feel is gonna be shit
>>16011381
I had those galvanized dimpled with slots, warped within 2 years.
Initially it would only do it at medium-to-heavy braking on the highway then it would do at all times when you're doing faster than 45.
For rotors? EBC a shit.
>>16011499
>warped within 2 years.
Rotors dont warp. And before you reply, do some research.
>>16011474
The centric stuff looks pretty good. $130 is more than reasonable. You've had good experience with these?
>>16011565
I have them on my Lexus and they've held up really well. I got the ones with the black coated hats and it's held up very nicely.
>>16011565
Also, I think they're an offshoot company of StopTech, so they've got that going for them, too.
>>16011645
What kind of Lexus do you have? Do you have an ES350? Because it would be the same exact pads and rotors...
>>16011507
fine, rotors didn't warp, but they gave me pedal pulsation like FUCK.
I still say EBC a shit.
>>16011381
When you replace your rotors, and pads remember a few things.
>Use copper anti seize on the backside of the rotor where it contacts the hub
>Use it as well on the shims, apply carefully. Prevents squeaks
>Clean off the slid bolts, and use the proper brake caliber lube
>bleed your brakes
>invest in Speed Bleeders, they are a bit pricey, but make brake bleeding a lot easier.
>remember, when bleeding brakes, NEVER push the brake pedal down all the way. Put something behind it to prevent this. Pushing the brake down all the way may cause the seals inside the brake master to come in contact with dirt, and debris, or rough surfaces.
>Do an inspection of the components before you replace them. Look for uneven brake pad wear, or if there is a lot of rust you may have to deal with later.
>>16011703
Yeah, debris build up. Very common on dimpled rotors, and race pads. Shit wears out quickly.
Worst part, you can resurface those types of rotors.
>>16011703
thats all you. they pulse because you didnt bed them in properly. you are supposed to drive at about 5-10 mph then apply the brakes a few times but not slam them on. otherwise they wont bed in and the cycle repeats
Have been pretty content with my "PowerStop" 4 wheel kit from roackauto for my ES300. $150 and change shipped for 4 rotors and full pad kit.
>>16011852
I had a similar set for my 1999 Avalon, but mine was drilled and slotted. One of the rotors cracked on me.
>>16012178
Ouch. I stay the hell away from anything drill/slotted for a daily driver. We'll see how these hold up with time.
>>16011852
does that set come in a 4 lug version?
>>16012194
Could have also been from a faulty caliper though. I did end up replacing that one twice. The second time is why I don't buy from Autozone or Advance anymore.
>>16012243
Look it up on rockauto, just search for your particular application.