Any anons have experience with custom paint jobs? I'm going

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>>15499966
yeah i painted my 2 axle harley back in 94
it gets easier the less axles you have

both bumpers?

>>15499966
If it can be done or not depends on your definition of "nice"

You can do a passable job with a rattle can if you have the patience, a decent location to do it, and a steady hand. I doubt you could get a decent paint gun/compressor for 400 dollars, but I could be wrong

>>15499974
Sick fucking bike dude. What clear coat and I'm assuming you used a gun?


>>15499985
I could do it at work in our paint booth. Shitty harbor freight paint gun though. I thought I could get away with a rattle can if I really prepped the shit out of it and took my time. It is a small area. I would be painting maybe 5 square feet of surface.

My main concern is if it will match correctly using just the factory paint code. And what kind of clear coat.

Lastly nice to me is looking factory from a few feet away.

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>>15500053
The best I have ever seen from a rattle can paint job is decent looking from like 10-15 feet away. Not to say more skillful people can't do better of course

I replaced the front passenger fender panel on my 95 Miata with a junkyard one. Junkyard one was blue, my car is black, and I repainted it using a rattlecan and it looks ok from about 10-15 feet. Just used the duplicolor clear coat they sell at advance auto

pic related is the repainted fender panel

>>15500090
That looks good man. How long had the fender been painted when you took that photo?

I would be very happy with that result. This isn't going to be anywhere near as visible as the fender. Bottom plastic piece of a bumper and side skirts.

Cheapest paint gun is still better than a rattle can.

Factory paint code will work. Modern paints don't fade like old Acrylics or Enamels do.

>>15500090
>The best I have ever seen from a rattle can paint job is decent looking from like 10-15 feet away
If this thread is still here when I wake up I'll post close up photos of a spot repair I did usinng matallic from a rattle can.

>>15500326
>>15500354
Looks like its still here.

Regarding the clear coat, just use whatever the paint shop recommends.

If you use generic color matched or color coded rattle cans you won't be able to use 2K or 2Pak paint like the car originally had.
So buy from a good paint shop and not some shit online store. You can go with factory color code if you are sure your car has its original paint job.

Most rattle cans are Acrylics. These will fade over time. 2K paints won't.
A good shop will also put proper tips/nozzles on their cans.

The hardware store cheapo cans have nozzles that spray in a circular pattern. The professional spray cans (yes its a thing) have nozzles that spray a vertical fan pattern like paint guns do.
Some 2k Aerosols come with a thingy on the bottom that you pull out to activate the catalyst

With a good can with a proper tip will give you the same results as a paint gun will. In your case probably better, because a paint gun has to be set up properly and cans work straight out of the box.

Another important thing if you want it to look good is to wetsand the basecoat before applying clear, then wetsand and buff the clear. Otherwise it will look slightly "hazy"

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>>15502292
The repair on this was a gouge smaller than a coin.
It needed to be filled with body filler, so I had to sand a much bigger area.

The key is to spray only the area you worked on first, then on each progressive coat you cover a larger area.

But this shouldn't matter for you since you are painting the whole bumper.

Also, I came across this video. It might be of help.

https://youtu.be/Xc0fC95RX48

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>>15503906
This is the base coat. You can see where it stops and meets the untouched area midway trough the fender flare.
If you are sraying metallics like I did here, you need to wet sand your primer with at least 600 grit. Otherwise the metallic flakes will fall into tiny scratches left in the primer and "stand up".

Once I covered the primer with he basecoat, I removed the masking tape and paper to slightly widen the area of coverage on the next and final coat.
If you spray right up to the masking tape you will not blend correctly and get a harsh transition.

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>>15503933
Last one

This is after clearcoat.
Still have to wetsand lightly and buff but only to get rid of small specs of dust.
If you are blending a spot repair you have to match the factory look and that includes orange peel.

It turned out pretty good. I still prefer using a paint gun though, especially when blending single stage Acrylics.

But cans are much less hassle. Less cleaning, less equipment and less setup time