/o/, what do you think about this car? >1996 Nissan Pathf

Like the color.

>>15361313
ask for pics of engine bay before you even look at it

I have that same pathfinder, 1998 4x4 and same color. I love it, best vehicle I've owned. Gas mileage isn't great and it doesn't have much power but everything else is awesome.

4x4 is not a meme, shit works well. I have taken it wheeling with local jeep club and they always smirk in the morning but by the end of the day i get nothing but compliments on how well it did. a locker in the rear would make it better, but a little speed and you'll get through most shit.

Mine is at 167K miles and it's been great for the last 30K miles. Transmissions aren't the strongest because nissan. But take care of it with a trans cooler (some models came with one from factory) and she will go forever. 21 gallon tank is nice too. I tow my racecar with mine. Rust isn't generally a big deal but there are a few common spots. Engine bay is tight, but it's not bad.

Check for rust on:
Front subframe crossmembers
Top center of the windshield before the sunroof (doesn't look like linked has one)
and the rear underbelly behind the rear axle

If you want an offroad machine the unibody design really limits it. If you want a daily that can offroad really well this is it. If you want to tow this might be a bit weak.

>>15361430
How forgiving is the vehicle for adding power to the engine?

Its definitely my daily with off-road capability but I wanna raise it and do the whole gambit. Any concerns with that?

>>15361430
>>15361313
I paid 3K for 132K miles in 2012 btw. Similar condition. For 2K its not a bad deal. Talk him down a few hundred, but even at 2K you aren't being scammed.

One great thing about these is that there were thousands of these things on the road, which means salvage yards have no shortage in parts. Anything you need can be pulled from a scrap car.

>>15361460
>How forgiving is the vehicle for adding power to the engine?
Some forum members have turboed them, others have done superchargers. But really the engine was built and designed for reliability and low end torque. Compression ratio is pretty low at 8.9:1 I'm sure you could get some power with thinner head gaskets and/or HC pistons. Nissan usually overbuild their bottom end by a lot so i doubt you'd have to do much there. I really haven't looked into adding power. 170 hp isn't bad it's not amazing, full torque at 2k rpm is pretty cool feels really peppy.

>raise it and do the whole gambit. Any concerns with that?
Like i said unibody limits the height a bit. You can get 4 inches with strut spacers, and then you could fit 35s. You will need longer brake lines for that (not expensive). I have 28 inch tall tires and they look small with no lift desu.
After 4 inches you have to subframe drop because of the cv shaft angle. It's a solid rear, so it articulates well, and dropping it is easy. But the front is a little harder since its independent.

i have seen a full 12 inch raise on these. I think 7 inch raise is the biggest common kit you can find online.

But honestly a 2 inch raise, some good tires, and a locker rear and you won't be left behind by rubicons. The new yota 4runner is a pig and will get walked on by stock these

>>15361580
So the guy thinks it's a tire balance issue more than anything on the car,

When I go test drive this thing, what do I need to look for aside from rust at various points on the body?

>>15361658
I have an intermitant shake in my steering wheel above 70mph. It doesn't really affect anything doesn't even drift or pull across the roadway. It happened after wheeling one time two years ago. Never worried about it that much. I think its tire balance too.

What does this guys car do? Alignment is easy on these.

I would make sure the 4x4 works. If he doesn't actually know much about how the 4x4 works here's a bargaining trick to cut a bunch of money. When shifting from 4hi to 4lo you have to do it quick and kinda forcefully, if you just row it back slow the gears will grind and it sounds bad. If they don't know to shift it quick you could be like "yo that's broken 200$ off"

I would make sure the struts are good. Take it over some rough road at 20-30mph, if there's some knocking or thud sound you likely have a blown strut. The oil will sometimes leak from the front struts and the inner fender liner will be coated extra clean shiny and new looking, don't let it trick you. The cheapest strut is only 30$ and took me like an hour per side to diy, but the nissan part if probably 150$ per corner.

Nissan has a recall for strut town separating from the engine bay. Forgot to say to check that shit too, just look behind the front wheels at the inner fender for rust holes. My car had the problem and shit actually started coming apart, but nissan fixed it for free. Cars was from new jersey but i live in florida and they didn't hassle me at all about it. If they think it's too bad to fix they buy the car from you for a really fair price (kbb value). So worse case you make some money lol. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/30159-nissan-to-recall-195000-pathfinder-qx4-suvs/page-3

https://youtu.be/__ZdctI8UOQ

>>15361784
He says it pulls right past 40

>Asked the guy about when he was free so my mechanic buddy could check it out
>"Not to be a dick but I've got 4 other people trying to buy it right now"
>check post date
>15 days old

>>15361950
what does he have to hide

>Need alignment

This is slang for "I hit a curb or something so it needs new ball joints and/or tie rods and/or control arm bushings etc etc"

>>15361976
Idk, but I ain't gonna spend $2k to find out

>>15361981
Funnily enough he just replaced the control arms a month ago

>>15362022
probably hit shit while offroading his new vehicle decide to offload the headache on someone else. WHy buy and sell it in two months?

I would still consider a pathfinder however