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Thread replies: 316
Thread images: 59

Old thread has hit the bump limit: >>1068121

I'm looking for a bike for my (tiny) GF so she can join me on weekend rides. Something reasonably quick/light so she enjoys herself, but cheap enough that it doesn't break the bank.

Thoughts on this Cannondale? https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/6129947942.html

I'd need to swap the bars out for something with less drop...
>>
>>1074790
>giving a new rider DT shifters
way to make sure your GF hates riding

just browse BD for an XS women's bike with cheap STIs. Even if it comes with shit parts, at least it will have dual pivot brakes, fresh pads, fresh tires, STIs (even if shitty), indexing, smoother shifting, ramps and pins on the chainring, and not a used worn out piece of shit.

the fact that the new parts are shitty is counterbalanced by the fact that old bikes use obsolete technology and are worn out and need major tune ups and parts replaced.
>>
>>1074804
Honestly, I'm probably going to swap the bars for some townie bars and throw some thumbie shifters on. I have some old Shimano M700 shifters and levers that have been waiting for a good bike to use them on.

>the fact that the new parts are shitty is counterbalanced by the fact that old bikes use obsolete technology...
I'd take high end 30-year-old gear any day over chitzy plastic made-by-the-lowest-bidder-in-china gear. I'm a manufacturing engineer, I know precisely how shitty you can make stuff in China and still allow it to be functional through the end of the warranty period. No thanks.

Mid 80's Shimano 600 was a fantastic groupset.

>...and are worn out and need major tune ups and parts replaced.
I do all my own work and have enough spare parts in the garage to build at least two bikes. Tuneups are not a problem.
>>
is Tommaso a garbage brand? They seem to have moderately priced bikes with components that are a bit better than other bikes at that price range
>>
>>1074804
I'd take DT shifters over shitty indexed any day desu
>>
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Gonna see a used Mongoose Subrosa 3x9 today, it appears 100% stock, except for the added rack

Now it has Shimano M485 w/160mm Rotor brakes, Shimano M485 hydraulic levers. And they are apparently not in their best condition.
I have never had hydraulics, though I do always prefer discs.
What am I in for?
How much hassle is bleeding and pad replacement?
How likely are tubes to need replacement?

Also, anyone ever seen that weird fork? it looks like a modern carbon one but specs say alloy.
>>
>>1075050
They have indexed downtube shifters too
>>
>>1074790
>44cm frame
> that fucking NEGATIVE headtube

I didn't even know this was possible. That fram has such weird proportions... chainstays is as long as the head tube.
>>
>>1074814
Claw mounted Derailleurs and shitty free wheels that never spin true due to design flaws, theaded headsets and quill stems

And non standard rear triangle spacing no Is enough by to ditch an no old bike

Also 27" wheels
>>
I tried a bike and the LBS said that I'm in between two sizes. How do I choose?
>>
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I just bought this for 1k €

I can't find anything bad about this.
but I'm somehow super skeptic about cube.

what's your view on this ?
>>
>>1075163
From what I've seen, they're a respectable bike manufacturer that simply isn't as popular as the big brands.
Looks like the bike has pretty decent components, the geometry is pretty cool for an alu frame.
>>
>>1075172

yeah , it's weird. this thing is spot on.

there's the obvious stuff. I'll replace the saddle and the wheels aren't crazy light or anything but + it's 2x10.
however with hydro discs and the newest tiagra.

but I feel like it's a very solid bike for the purpose I have in mind for it.
>>
>>1074814
>it's the I'm an engineer stereotype
Everyone laugh at him
>>
>>1075127
Pick the smaller one
>>
>>1075127
Pick the cheaper one. Otherwise pick the smaller one as experienced riders will often grow down to a lower stack height as they get fitter and more flexible. Rarely does anyone decide they need a size larger after getting fitter.
>>
>>1075179
>not being an engineer on an anonymous Japanese double butting forum
>>
>>1075098
Sounds good. Hydraulics can be a bit of a pain when working on them, but you rarely have to do anything to them so it balances out.
At worst you can get some new basic Shimano hydraulic brakes for like 50€ whole set assembled and everything.
>>
>>1075163
Looks good, would ride.

Tires are probably shit, but that's pretty common
>>1075175
Wow hydro dicks with road levers? Jelly.
>>
>>1075187
48cm master race

if you're riding anything bigger than a 50

get your fat ass on a flat bar hybrid
>>
>>1075307
Jesus Christ how fucking tiny are you? I'm 5'7 and i ride a 52
>>
>>1075318
i'm 5'8"
>>
>>1075114
What the fuck are you even talking about
>>
>>1074790
Not bad, senpai. If the drop is a concern, check out the Nitto Technomic & Tallux stems. Also, bar-end shifters if she doesn't like the DT levers. Note that the C'dale touring frames didn't have replaceable derailleur hangers, so you might want to get one of those rear mech cages that bolt to the fender/rack eyelets.

>>1075050
>implying that indexed DT shifters don't exist
BAKAYARO
>>
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Anyone use Decathlon's cheap city bikes before? The B'twin Hoptown 300 and 320. Am poorfag and was thinking of getting one for last-mile commuting and running errands within a mile or two of my home.
>>
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>>1075276
Yea, i got him home. Pretty amazing for 115 eurobucks too. Other than the chain, cassette and front mech being DONE, it is a fine machine. Alloy fork without fender mounts or even center bolt is a bit sad, but hey, ill be selling it anyway this season. Tempted to move the hydros to my primary commuter however, i am now totally sold on the smooth feel.
Do you feel it is worth buying new hydraulic tubes? Front is fine but for the creaking, but he back is waaay too soft. If im moving them, im bleeding then both, as my other frame is internally routed, i just hope the opening on the front downtube is large enough. Any tricks is this regard?
>>
>>1075382
>front mech being DONE
H-how?
>>
>>1075394
commuting year-round for like 6 years without a full rear fender, never cleaning anything. mech rusted and seized (in the middle ring thankfully)
damn, even the paint is coming off alloy on rear of the seattube - scary sight

will probably just buy one new chainring and have it 1x9, should be sweet with bit wider cassete, since the nearest mountains are 1000km away
>>
>>1075326
Old 10 speeds :

126mm rear dropout spacing

Claw mounted Derailleurs rather than frame mounted

Threaded headsets/forks

Quill stems

Freewheel (free wheel wobble Google it)

27" wheels vs 700c road

Loose ball bearing wheels vs sealed

Unsealed loose ball bearing bottom brackets


Inferior brake mounts

Literally everything on a dt equipped bike is shit
>>
>>1075382
Looks pretty nice.
>Alloy fork without fender mounts or even center bolt is a bit sad
There are fenders that mount into the steerertube
>but hey, ill be selling it anyway this season.
The fork or the whole bike? Either way, why?
>Do you feel it is worth buying new hydraulic tubes? Front is fine but for the creaking, but he back is waaay too soft. If im moving them, im bleeding then both, as my other frame is internally routed, i just hope the opening on the front downtube is large enough. Any tricks is this regard?
I don't think just changing the tubes will do anything noticeable. I'd guess you just need to bleed them and maybe get new pads. Usually the hydraulics run outside the frame even on bikes with internal cabling. Can't help you further than that.

Seems like a cool bike as it is, I wouldn't mess with it too much.
>>
>>1075429
Fucking hell, your opinions are so wrong that it literally hurts to read them.
>>
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>>1075437
>replying to sieg
>>
Hey all, looking for a bicycle. I've got some options here. 5'8. Using for commuting to and from work every day. I'd like your opinions!

<200$:
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/6146240825.html

200-300$:
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/bik/6107627755.html
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/6146099713.html
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/bid/6146097564.html
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/6121574156.html
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/6121574156.html
>>
>>1075464
>reply to sieg
>he gets attention and shitposts more
>don't reply to seig
>he shitposts anyways and no one refutes him and someone who doesn't know better might actually believe him
He's to /n/ as /pol/ is to the rest of 4chan.
>>
>>1075502
Am I being trolled? Why would you even consider anything but the Cannondale?
>>
>>1075521
Don't know much about bicycles is all. No trolling, honest.
>>
https://houston.craigslist.org/bik/6134739244.html

Thoughts on this bike as a commuter? I wouldn't take it more than 5 miles at max.
>>
>>1075525
It looks old. You can probably find a lot nicer bikes for just a little bit more money. It is very cheap, but if you just want something to ride once in awhile for fun or something, maybe to pick up a small amount of groceries, this might be a good choice, especially since it has a rack and fenders.
>>
Leaning strongly towards investing in a Marin Pine Mountain 1 as my first mountain bike.

Thoughts?
>>
>>1075530
Fender meme is pretty tarded just get in the way clack around especially on ilder cheaper bikes

Not like you dudes ride in the rain or on wet pavement ever so why the fuck does it matter?
>>
>>1075535
Nice, I'd prefer the old model with rigid fork but the new one is not bad either.

It's a bit too expensive for me, can't complain about anything else really.
>>
Is 850 usd a good price for a kestrel 500sci? He hasn't posted any specs add I'm not sure if this bike is worth looking into.
>>
>>1075589
For got the link
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/bik/6146137021.html
>>
>>1075543
fuck off, sieg
>>
>>1075502
seconding the cannondale - others are either too big (both bianchis), low-end shitters (peugeot), or of uncertain durability (trek CF/Al-lugs)
>>
>>1074790
I've seen that exact bike being ridden around the neighborhood. I live within a 5 minute walk of that location.
>>
I need tips for buying a cyclocross bike. I'm looking to spend 800 usd on the bike (not including pedals). I'm willing to buy used and home assembly online bikes (I.e. Nashbar.com, bikesdirect.com, etc...)
>>
>>1075163
cool, is that the Attain Race Disc?
I was looking into the Cube Cyclocross bikes as I want something affordable with hydro discs and the option for wider 30mm tyres for gravel and shit.
How wide is the clearance on your Attain? Could you fit wider tyres with a bit of profile in there? And where did you get it for 1k€? The website says 1.2k€ if I recall correctly.
>>
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I want to buy my first roadbike and I found this one online for 499€. The buyer does not specify anything on the site besides it having 30 gears and an Ultegra groupset. I do not know enough to identify the bike, but it seems like a good deal.

Can any of you help me identify the bike or does anybody have any thoughts on this deal?

https://www.willhaben.at/iad/kaufen-und-verkaufen/d/specialized-rennrad-ultegra-205818914/
>>
>>1075765
>The buyer does not specify anything on the site besides it having 30 gears and an Ultegra groupset
It does, but it's an old, old, old bike with a 10spd triple flavour of Ultegra. You can very nearly get an equivalent, brand new, modern bike for that money, so value is low and it doesn't tempt me in the least. You're paying 2/3 of a new bike but with a lot of wear and age to it.
>>
>>1075765

500€ is too much for that.
>>
So, I need a new commuting bike.
The idea is to have flat bars, full mudguards and at least a 50x cog front for gotta go fast.
The second part of it is, the bike should be cheap, so as not to get stolen in the city.

I've look around and can't find anything satisfactory... Would it be easier, in your experience, to flatbar and mudguard a cheap ass road bike or changing the casette on a shitty hybrid?
The up side of cheap road bikes around my parts is that breaks are usually pivot, compared to the linear pull on hybrids, which are just all around shit. And just slightly more responsive I gues....

What about a fixie and then installing mudguards, is this a terrible idea?
>>1075765
Look at Decathlon if you have one nearby, you can get a last year 105 for ~800€ if you catch a discount.
>>
If I'm considering spending £300 for a hybrid bike will I get complete shit if I try to buy new? Is second hand the better option?
>>
>>1076048
>If I'm considering spending £300 for a hybrid bike will I get complete shit if I try to buy new?
Yes. That is the defining characteristic of hybrids. But here you go:
https://www.evanscycles.com/en-se/pinnacle-lithium-1-2017-hybrid-bike-EV275571#modal__product-zoom-modal
>Is second hand the better option?
Very rarely.
>>
>>1076049
Are you saying hybrids are shit? I don't cycle much, but when I do I end up on cycle paths and country paths which are a bit rougher, so I figured hybrid is the way forward.
>>
>>1076048
Yes to both
>>
>>1076050
It's pretty much your only option because gravel grinders, CX and randonneurs are double your budget. But yes, they're pretty shit. It's a type of bicycle for people who don't like bicycling, basically.
>>
Would something like this be better for my £300?

https://www.gumtree.com/p/bicycles/giant-defy-3-road-race-bike.-upgraded-to-mavic-wheels.-clean-and-tidy-full-working-order.-/1242718784
>>
>>1076050
They're not shit. People who generally believe they are shit are snobs.
>>
>>1075770
>has a groupset introduced in 2005 and superseded in 2010.
>"old, old, old bike"

fuckin kids these days.
>>
>>1076054
>hybrids
>"It's a type of bicycle for people who don't like bicycling, basically."
Yeah, pretty much. There's a reason you don't see expensive hybrids.
>>
>>1076124
Define expensive. It's quite easy to find hybrids over $1000.
>>
What's a good urban commuter bike? I would bike 20kms from my apartment to my job and I was wondering if there was a good all weather bike for under 1000usd. Would a fuji touring be good?
>>
>>1076123
>has a groupset introduced in 2005 and superseded in 2010.
Which is more than a decade ago, gramps. Or 1/5 of an average persons adult life to put it another way. Which means it has very little in common with what we call Ultegra today. I'd take modern day Tiagra any day of the week.
>>
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>>1076057
Yes and no. It's not ideal for rough roads because it can't fit very wide tyres. Then again, as long as we're talking hard packed dirt roads and not fist size gravel it's pretty much ideal. Get the beefiest 25/28mm tyres on it you can and go sanic speeds.
Though what you really want is probably a gravel grinder or CX, and those tend to cost a bit more. Pic related.

See if you can't find an old Kaffenback, CAADX or Kona Honky Tonk. They're common enough and take slightly wider tyres.
>>
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I got this recently for $180 and it came with a giro helmet as well... did i do good or was I ripped off? The bars have no wrap because the old wrap was shit and new wrap is in the mail
>>
>>1076198
>old campystyle sora
>bikesdirect chink frame
>boat anchor wheels and bso level finishing kit
>impossible to judge condition
Welp, you didn't pay much but didn't get much either. Wouldn't go as far as to say you were ripped off. Fix the handlebar angle, adjust the stem, get a racy saddle and affix pokerface.
>>
I'm looking at entry level suspension. I need a fork 27.5" 100mm

Is air worth the investment over coil (going to need a pump) in a low end fork such as the Suntour XCR 32mm with rebound and lockout? $183+$35 for Rockshox pump @Amazon.

XCT coil /w HLO but no rebound only $91
>>
>>1076184
>shitposting this badly
>>
>>1076275
>2005 is not twelve years ago
>life expectancy is not age of majority + 12*5 or 78 years
>4700 is not > 6600
Not sure which of these points you're implicitly trying to argue gramps, but they're all wrong and so are you.
>>
>>1076281
Your entire attitude and your dismissal of quality components as "outdated" is what's wrong here, shitfoetus. Abort yourself.
>>
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>>1076282
>two generations of 10spd refinement and a decade of steady advances in manufacturing doesnt outweigh branding
>imblying
If you're retarded enough to believe that old, worn group is objectively superior in quality, tolerances, finish and machining than modern day kit you're sorely mistaken, gramps. Please, just stop digging this hole you're in. Even a NOS 6600 group wouldn't compare to 4700.
>>
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>>1076287
You're pretty good
>>
>>1076287
to be fair tiagra 4700 was a major paradigm shift for that branding.

Tiagra 4600 was a budget groupset in their lineup.

tiagra 4700 was a jump to prosumer groupset same with 5700

a closer comparison would be 3500
>>
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Thinking about selling my grandfather's bike on craigslist or summin.
What could I honestly post this up for? 40? 35?
He only rode it twice during his lifetime. Shit's in near perfect condition with just dots of rust on the mudguards.

Though I'm a bit worried what might come to pick it up, a bunch of niggers or some spic trying to lowball me for 10 like they all tried when I put it out for the garage sale?

I'd even ask if any of you noggins that live in LA want it.
>>
>>1076392
put rare vintage immaculate

perfect for college kids and ask $750 for it like everyone else on craigslist


people wouldn't be doing that if it didn't work once or twice
>>
>>1075994
Get a flat bar bike, not a drop bar road bike, if you want flats. You can put flats on a road bike but if the geometry is designed for drops it won't ride as nice. Flat bar hybrids rarely come with 50t+ so you'll have to replace the crankset or at least the rings (replacing only the big ring is a bad idea because the shifting will be bad if the small ring is not designed for use with the big ring). If you don't like the brakes found on some hybrids, get one with discs.
Consider Kona Dew Plus, GT Tachyon, Trek FX, Specialized Sirrus, Cannondale Bad Boy, Giant Escape, etc
>what about a fixie
Kill yourself.
>>
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>>1076050
If you want a hybrid, see the list of recommended bikes in >>1076395
>>
>>1076395
I can't speak to the other brands, but I know that as far as acceptable hybrids go, Specialized has offerings on both sides of the coin. The Sirrus leans a bit towards the road bike end of the spectrum and the Crosstrail leans a bit toward the mountain bike end of the spectrum.
>>
I need a cheap commuter bike for use on mainly steep roads and a bit of rough sidewalk. All it needs is flat bars and wheel/tire sizes that prioritize speed (so nothing too thick). Any recommendations?
>>
>>1076409
Cannondale H-series hybrids from the 1990s are p. decent.
>>
>bought bike two days ago
>already stressing that something I didn't spot is going to fuck my wallet or that I made a mistake buying it

Fuck me.
>>
>>1076426
Well you're probably right
>>
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Decision help appreciated:

I'm looking for a roadbike with which I can also drive the occasional gravel and forest track in my area.

Currently looking at the CUBE Cross Race and Cross Race Pro. Both seem pretty cool with 105 and discs but I'm still unsure whether +300€ for the hydraulic disks and Mavic wheelset of the Pro are worth it (I have no experience with either brake).
I can easily put 28mm road tyres on there and then have the 33mm CX tyres in reserve.

Second option would be the new Endurace 6.0 Disc from Canyon.
Also 1400€ with 105 and hydraulic discs but a DT Swiss wheelset (which is supposedly better, I heard?), almost 2kg lighter but only 30mm maximum tyre clearance (comes with 28mm Conti).

Are 30mm enough for what I want and are the hydrodiscs/other wheels worth it?
>>
>>1076455
The hydro levers/hoods are clumsy and awkward. Mavic is rarely an upgrade, and definitely not over what looks to be a nice pair of wheels. Looking at the spec it seems identical save for the wheels and brake solution.
I'd pocket the €300. Perhaps save it for a later generation hydro upgrade, fancy tyres or race day wheels.
>>
>>1076455
Note that you'll want to swap chainrings for road bike gearing
>>
>>1076480
By clumsy and awkward do you mean the lever actuation? because the hydro hoods look nice and beefy and you can adjust the lever reach anyways.
And I'm not sure whether I'll swap chainrings. I don't think I can spin out 46x11...
>>
>>1076485
>By clumsy and awkward do you mean the lever actuation?
No, I mean the grip.
>beefy
Exactly. A fistful of rubber rather than a hood. The old 5700 levers were bad, but the new hydros are even worse.
>I don't think I can spin out 46x11...
You wont.
>>
>>1076482
You will never in your life spin out 46x11.
>>
>>1076455
Look at similar offerings from Jamis, Kona, Salsa or Marin.
Do you really want to be an alu pleb for the next x years?
>>
>>1076490
If you live in flatland, sure.
>>
>>1076487
I'll try to feel up both grips in a store somewhere. I have relatively long hands, so maybe the hydrohood works for me.
>>1076494
Thanks, I will. And I don't really care for alu or carbon (yet). Superlightweight is out of my budget anyways and I'd rather have a better drivetrain+alu
>>
>>1076504
Drivetrain can be upgraded with better components as it wears out.
You're stuck with a frame until you buy a new bike (or a frame and do a swap, but that's almost guaranteed to cost more than a drivetrain upgrade).
>>
>>1076455
i'd go with the cross race, senpai
>>
>>1076504
Take a look at Planet X too. Most of it's a bit dearer but not a terrible stretch. Bish-Bash-Bosh, Full Monty and XLA are well within your budget reach with hydro 1x groupsets. The full carbon XLS too if you stretch it a bit.
>>1076497
>this retard is spinning instead of tucking
Hey everyone, spot the newb!
>>
>>1076542
Their lineup looks nice, yes, but I am sitting in Germany and want to testride the bike I buy. So ordering from UK is not preferred. Although the Tiagra XLS does indeed look nice. probably lighter than the CUBE bikes too.

>>1076521
Hmm, you're right. I didn't see any pre-built carbon bikes with lower end drivetrain to testride though. And letting a LBS build one for me seems too expensive too. I don't have the time and tools to build one myself. Plus I want to test it first
>>
>>1076562
You don't want garbon, you want steel.
>>
>>1076490
Yep, you've never descended a mountain
>>
>>1076566
I ascend mountains then take the lift back down, you pansy.
>>
>>1076562
>Tiagra XLS does indeed look nice. probably lighter than the CUBE bikes too.
I'd spend the extra few hundred and get the Rival 1/Rival22 hydro setup. And yes, it's a good kg lighter than the Cubes with _heavy_ (2400 g) wheels. So you can easily shave an extra kg off of that in a future upgrade.

Test riding is not all it's cranked up to be and fit is a matter of setup unless the geo is way, way out.
Treat yourself to the better bike. You know you want to.
>>
>>1075018

i have a tommaso and i use it for bike courier shir. ride it daily, its great. only thing thats shit are the stock brakes.
>>
>>1076566
I'm pretty sure most people have not and never will.

ps. I have 44x12 top gear on my road bike. never "spun out". how does that make you feel?

>>1076409
There are almost endless options for your criteria. Any hybrid bike from a reputable brand for example. See the posts above yours for examples.

>>1076392
I'd just put it for 100$ and see if someone bites. Lower it later. Actual value maybe 50 if it actually works.

>>1076273
Coil spring has a predefined spring rate for a specific rider and bike weight. If you happen to be that weight then it's probably not worth the extra money to go air.
Most likely you are not and replacing the spring isn't usually practical in cheap forks. Air can be adjusted to your actual weight exactly.
>>
>>1076780
>I have 44x12 top gear on my road bike. never "spun out". how does that make you feel?
Strong
>>
>>1076811
At 100 rpm a 50x11 is 58 km/h, a 46x11 53 km/h
Not that much of a difference, especially when beginning. And it is also unlikely that you'll descend at exactly the speed range which is still covered by 50x11 but not 46x11.
>>
>>1076813
Indeed
At 100 rpm a 44x12 is 46km/h, which you'd definitely spin out on an ever so slight descent
>>
>>1076611
>only thing thats shit are the stock brakes.
I got one with Claris brakes, they are shit? they already seem much better than my old bike with shittily made, no name cheap brakes. what would you recommend replacing them with?
>>
>>1076867
Most non-BSO calipers are fine, senpai. Maybe get salmon-compound Kool Stop pads for wet weather stopping
>>
>>1076891
>Maybe get salmon-compound Kool Stop pads for wet weather stopping
thanks, will do
>>
>>1076811
Haha, good for you.
>>1076816
How about pedaling faster than 100rpm then. Cadence wise I'm quite comfortable even above 50 in that gear, but I'm not strong enough to pedal it for more than a quick sprint.
Also going at over 50 down hills I'd just rather tuck and recover for the next climb.

I've never seen anyone ride at such speeds on "an ever so slight descent". I know on the internet you don't ever use the small ring and spin out of your 50x11 every day, but really I've never seen this shit happen in real life.
>>
>>1076867
Stand in front of your bike

Squeeze the front brake hard

Notice how the pivoting arms flex a little

Good calipers don't do that
>>
>>1076570
>>1076480
I drove both Cross Race and Pro today and gravitate towards the Pro. The hoods are a bit fatter, yes, but the hydro discs feel much better.

I am still a bit conflicted about the price, it is 300€ more that the non-Pro after all. How much negotiation room do those dealers get from CUBE for 1400€ bikes? They are a pretty big store with maybe 70-80% cube bikes and every model and spec.

He also mentioned that the new models will be presented in August and go on sale the following months. Can I expect a significant
>>
>>1077134 (I fucked up the posting)
price drop on the current model given I still find one. Or can I expect a significant upgrade on the newer model? Afaik Shimano didn't upgrade their 105, so maybe just better wheels.
>>
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Kona explosif with 1800€ price tag?
http://www.konaworld.com/explosif.cfm
Yay or nay?
>>
>>1077205
Looks fun enough. Bit of a hefty price tag though. The On-One DeeDara and 45650b is significantly cheaper (€1200) for similar features. The big missing item is the dropper post, but you can get a lot of dropper post for €600. The DeeDar is similar in style (long and slack) and the 45650b is more traditional.
Just throwing the options out there.

Having said that I don't think the Kona is particularly bad value. Nice spec, long and stable geo and I'd say the price is reasonable.
>>
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>>1074790
Advise is greatly appreciated.

I mainly want a bike to commute and sometimes do some xc. I found two bikes near where I live. Which one would you choose?

Felt q600 2008
>LX upgraded components
>Aluminium frame
>suntour shocks
>seller is asking 250

Or

Kona Muni Mula 1998 Retailed new 1200

>Marzochi shocks
>xt components
>avid vbrakes
>seller is asking 200
>>
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>>1077247
The Kona
>>
I bet this is going to sound silly, so I'll preface this by saying I've only ever ridden shit bikes for fitness reasons before. Beat bike I've ever owned was a Gary Fisher Nirvana, which I loved dearly. I need a new bike, mostly for commuting and for exercise. Best looking one I've found in my price range and size is a Schwinn Le Tour mixte. Can anyone give me any advice on this? What should I be looking for?

https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/bik/6152519403.html
>>
>>1074790
That bike looks so fucking weird, why can't they just use smaller wheels for small riders? Looks like 32 inch wheels on a regular bike.

>>1075437
I have an old 10 speed and he's not wrong. Some of these things aren't a big deal though.

>>1075369
Looks nice. I would get a coaster brake though on a folder so I can eliminate cables. I have a 6 speed folder and hate the gearing; it's super low compared to even a mountain bike. I'll probably convert it to SS and it'll look like what you posted.
>>
>>1077260
When buying used steel bikes, things to avoid are:
>stem shifters
>27" wheels
>steel rims
>cottered cranks
>claw mounted rear derailleur
as these are often signs of a low end bike.
That being said, it looks like a decent town bike for short commutes, and it seems to be in pretty mint condition except for the chain. I'd offer $100 cash
>>
>>1077283
Thank you for the tips! The seller seems to be one of those types that likes fixing up old bikes, including customizing them for aesthetics. I was thinking of using this bike to peddle around the UIUC campus, but I'd also like to use it for fitness purposes. I would want a better saddle and maybe switch out the handle bars, but if I was able to get a steady 18 mph on an old Gary Fisher Nirvana and grow massive thighs along the way, I should be able to do it with this.

I was also looking at the chain. I'm glad to know that, despite my inexperience, I could at least notice that. It has new wheels and it seems to have a lot of effort put into fixing it up, so I'm content with the price. My mom wants his schwinn continental, so I don't want to put him off the sale by trying to strong arm him, even if I don't want the cushy seat.

Thanks again. I really appreciate it.
>>
How do these bikes look? I am looking for something cheap to get starting. Its been a long time since I've been on a bike.

https://houston.craigslist.org/bik/6133512611.html

https://houston.craigslist.org/bik/6076197691.html

Alternatively, does anyone know of someone selling an inexpensive and fairly priced bike for someone who is arround 5'8" in Houston?
>>
>>1077512
The Schwinn is shit, the Panasonic is not terrible if you can stand DT shifter. It is very old though and probably needs a bit of work and money.
Unless you're poor as shit and have no choice I'd say a new entry level bike is better value. It's simply a much better product for only a few hundred more.
>>
>>1076780
In response to the coil vs air, I weigh 140 to maybe 150. I haven't scaled in a while I need to.
>>
>>1077294
they're called bike flippers in a deragatory name.

they take a $35 bike throw some bar tape on it and grease the bearings and charge $500 for it
>>
What's the most affordable way for me to buy or build:

* 650b
* Drop bar
* Disc brake
* Aluminum frame
* MTB
* with a Steel Fork

I have been scheming on this for a few days now.

I could, maybe, take a smaller sized 29er, slap a surly fork on it, and convert to 650b AND drop bars

But if there's a better way, or if I should just KMS instead, please let me know
>>
>>1077574
I literally cut a steel steerer tube this morning

>steel fork

>never again

can't be done with a pipe cutter and looks slop ass with a hacksaw and had to clean up the cut for like an hour to get a factory like chamfer
>>
>>1077579

I'm too paranoid for carbon so it's my only choice really.

I have cut them with a pipe cutter. The steerer tends to spread out at the cut, which makes putting on stems and spacers annoying, but it's not a big deal. You can file it down a little

I've had better luck with a saw. But I just give it a quick sanding and say "fuck it". all my bikes get beat up so .. eh

The type of teeth you have on the saw matters. Need them lil baby teeth
>>
best gravel/cross bike under $1000?

The GT Grade with Claris or Sora components is $800. Think I can do better?
>>
>>1077574
>* Aluminum frame
>* with a Steel Fork

but why
>>
>>1077574
Buy the Bikesdirect 650b SS MTB and throw drops on it. Preferably upgrade the low end discs too.

>>1077677
Because an aluminum fork rides like shit
>>
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$62
Should I? Only bike I have is a Fixie and it sucks for long distance.
Is Univega a good brand? It looks vintage.
>>
>>1077677
Ride a bike with a steel fork, and watch it. Not only will you get to see just how much shit a steel fork absorbs, hopefully you'll also get hit by a car and die
>>
>>1077884
The usual precautions about buying old steel bikes still apply, but that looks like it's in pretty good condition. Probably worth getting
>>
>>1077887
I'm a newfag to this board, what are the usual precautions?
>>
Where can you get (relatively speaking) cheap custom steel frames from?
>>
>>1077941
Your local framebuilder
>>
>>1077889
>>1077283
>>
>>1077582
This one was chrome so a pipe cutter would dull mid cut.

I I just hate the extra steps

Alum steerers are soft and cut like butter.

Carbon is even softer but brittle. And not hard to cut
>>
>>1077884
I'd offer $10 and walk at $15.

Guarantee you'll be the only dude looking at it in months

Point little shit out like cables, bar tape, tires, tubes, chain, and tell him that adds up to like $300 in parts and labor at a lbs
>>
>>1077957
Yeah, my "local framebuilders" really aren't cheap. I seem to vaguely remember someone linked to a german? website a few generals ago that was decently priced?
>>
>>1074790
wish i had a tiny GF to get a 24" wheeled roadbike
>>
>>1077959
Eh, I sorta disagree with that list.

Most old steel bikes are going to be 27", and a few other things on the list aren't necessarily indicators of a bad bike.

I'd be more inclined to check for actual damage to the bike - badly adjusted bearings, rust anywhere on frame/rims, play in any of the bearings, lack of cleanliness, chain wear&tear, cassette/jockey wear, brake pads & brake uniformity, spokes, etc.
>>
>>1077973
most old bikes are going to be steel rims nd 27" wheels

you're not getting aluminum wheels on mid range bikes until the mid 80's


and that's out of your price range

most of you guys are just after any bike that works so you can ride it to school and not worry about theft

not sure why it needs to be a vintage colnago or early trek aluminum race bike for you to ride to work when a piece of shit schwinn varsity will do just fine
>>
>>1077870
Yeah just like aluminum frame. STEEL IS REAL
>>
>>1078015
Not just like a frame, forks are under different stresses.
>>
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Should I get this
>>1077884

Or pic related

Both $60
>>
>>1078107
Just get the first one.
>>
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Roadie here, I am looking to buy a mountain bike so I can start having fun riding bikes again. I've ridden 26" in the past a little and the wheel size felt perfectly fine to me, made the bikes feel quite playful and nimble. I have also test ridden a 29er with the wide bar meme recently and I hated the way it felt. Never ridden a 27.5", but as far as new bikes go I guess that'll be my only option.

As I said, I am looking to have fun on this bike, not necessarily to go fast- I guess a "trail" bike is the genre I am looking for. Budget is around $800-900. Full suspension would be nice. With this in mind, obviously a used 26" bike is going to be my best bet, but there are a few hardtail 27.5s that I've seen that, on sale, are in my price range. (Chainreaction has a few Cubes with 2x11 drivetrains, air forks, hydro brakes for around $800).

Is there anything in particular I should look out for, besides no coil suspensions?

Thanks.

Local craigslist: (I am 5'9, so I guess 17" is about my size) https://boone.craigslist.org/search/bia
>>
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I found this one for $220: comes with basket, fenders, and helmet.

Need it just for 3 months.

What do u guys think?
>>
So I'm 6"5'

Any advice on a good road bike for a big lad?
Will I be able to find anything second hand in a decent size?
>>
>>1078186
Why!
>>
>>1078362
http://www.cyclingabout.com/list-of-xxl-xxxl-bikes-for-tall-cyclists-62-63-64cm/
>>
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I'm thinking about getting the Contend 1 as my first road bike. Any opinions?

Is the red too flashy looking? I am planning on getting a red and black colored kit to go along with it.
>>
>>1078309
You did pretty bad my man
>>
>>1078518
looks cromulent to me, anon
>>
>>1077979
>sieg gives great advice
Oh my god honey get the camcorder
For real though, a fine old pile of garbage ('87 Schwinn beach cruiser) with only five speeds and an old Wald pair of rear baskets served me perfectly living IN DOWNTOWN CHICAGO SHARING ALMOST EVERY SINGLE STREET WITH CARS. Really there's no excuse to prefer any better than gaspipe with steel literally everything unless you're in the saddle for longer than a half an hour at a time.

Sieg's surprisingly right this time. Just get a Schwinn Varsity in your size. Install some Wald hardware so you can take care of errands on it. Lock it outside. Maintain it once in a while. Ride. Run it five speeds if a front derailer is too much trouble. Ride it.
>>
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Hey Bike Buy. I've been working on my fixed bike project for quite some time and am in the finishing stages. I recently had a problem where my chain hopped off the crankset though and the chain wound up tearing the spokes on the rear wheel as I tried to come to a stop. I've reused a road double for the task and was originally going to keep the original 53t chainring, but I'm thinking the chain probably came disengaged like it did because of the tooth profile on the chainring, designed to facilitate indexed shifting. Any thoughts? If so, I was thinking of getting a 53t Litepro chainring with the integrated bash guard, running it facing inward, and installing a standalone bash guard (one of the Driveline units) on the outboard side. Basically to keep the chain captive. How does this sound?

Also not pictured is the chromed dork disk that I just installed on the rear wheel. Had to take out the ruined spokes and replace them all. Never again.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/162273918365

http://www.ebay.com/itm/112294252430
>>
>>1078412
Oh my jesus, the only thing I need to lay eyes on is the dedicated derailer tab on the older bike you posted to know that it's okay quality.

Only thing I need to lay eyes on with the "GMC" is that it's using a quill stem and pretending to be a modern road bike--sure sign of a very low quality item. Please trust us, it's why Bike Buy General exists.
>>
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So I'm thinking of finally upgrading from the meh performance hybrid Giant Escape I've been riding for the last five years to a proper road bike. I'm thinking of going touring-mode to entertain my fantasies of a Arkansas-to-Washington-State tour next year, and they seem like they would handle AR gravel and shoddy roads well enough and our hilly topography.

I'm looking at a few, what do you think?

Fuji Touring - $750, Sora. Seems affordable and solid, but I wonder about the Sora. Would it be better to save up longer and get the . . .

Jamis Aurora - $930, sporting a Tiagra RD? I've never ridden anything but my current low end drivetrain, what is really the difference between Sora and Tiagra, worth $180?

Or, should I save up for a few more months and get a Long Haul Trucker, Disc, sporting 105 and disc brakes?
>>
>>1078697
There's very little real world difference between a Tiagra and a Sora RD, and if you were feeling anal, you could pick up an older 105, Ultegra, or even Dura Ace RD.

The Aurora comes with fenders, and looks a little nicer, and sports name brand tubing, a lugged fork, and comes with fenders. It also has classic bend handlebars.

If you like the Aurora and can afford it, get it. If you're tight on money or would rather use the $180 on something else, get the Fuji.

Both of them have meme shifters.
>>
>>1078713
Meme shifters? Are you guys not fond of bar end shifters?

I would prefer STIs for use around where I live for easier shifting in traffic, but have no experience with either so I honestly don't know. That was one thing I may eventually modify if they are clunky at all.
>>
>>1075518
He's always right?
>>
>>1077885
But why wouldn't you want the same quality extended to the rest of the bike?
>>
>>1078740
The BD touring bike has the same frame as the Fuji, but overall uses shittier parts except for the fact it has STIs.
>>
>>1078691
Why not just end this nonsense and buy a SS specific chainring? Also 53t? Give me a goddamn break, I hate waiting for you mashfags when the light turns green and you can't fucking move
>>
>>1078518
If color scheme is all you care about then you're going to end up with a shitty bike that's painted fancy.

You like red and black bikes so bought it?

Yeah well it turns out you got an FSA goasamer crankset, the industries bearing gs that fall apart and rush, neco headsets cups from China which are stamped steel and not cnc machined aluminum like from King.

A star nut cramed into a carbon fiber fork that's looking to crack at the first down hill

Steel cassette that's rust prone, steel crankset chain rings bend o matic

Really shitty cup and cone formula hubs

Really shitty AlexRims chink shit

Bullshit tektro brakes that flex and have zinc coated grade 5 or below mounding hardware. And an uncoated caliper spring

Square taper bottom bracket that will marry the races within 500 miles and no matter how many times you replace the loose ball bearings and marine grease the raw steel races they still accumulate water because the seal is shit.

Shit bikes are truly shit. Brand names make shit bikes too

Trek and giant send some real shit out there
>>
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>>1078777
t b h farn, I already had the 53t chainring on hand and did not want to pony up for a new one, as a majority of SS chainrings are subject to Hipster/Fixie tax where manufacturers know that style seekers will pay out the ass. There's also less competition so everything is just more expensive overall. I saved a lot by reusing a road double. Also I'm running a 20t rear cog for a conservative 70 or so gear inches. Easy to get going and easy to get up hills, especially with the Pursuit horn bars on this bike.
>mashfag
If you can't squeeze your fat ass past me on a wide open road, you have more important things to worry about than just the composition of my drivetrain. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Does anyone else have advice?
>>
>>1078804
>Also I'm running a 20t rear cog
Imbecile. Get a proper chainset and a smaller cog. The Alpine chainset is cheap as dirt, low Q, stiff and reasonably light. Get a cog that matches.
>>
>>1078812
>s/alpine/alfine
Y-you too, autocorrect.
>>
>>1078691
Buy a single speed chainring retard. It's not like they're expensive. How can you afford buying all this shit twice over but you can't afford buying a single speed chainring for $20?
>>
>>1078815
>>1078812
I never found the cheap chainrings when I first looked for them about a year and a half ago. The Litepro unit is sixteen bucks, and I found Origin8 stuff (the BMX ring) for twenty bucks. In any case the road ring came free along with the cranks, all for around fifty bucks. The crankset is a Dura-Ace FC7410 unit, very light and stiff. Better than anything else I could have gotten for the price. Adding in the cost of a new ring puts me a good ways towards a passable new unit, which start somewhere around a hundred dollars. I really didn't think the road ring would be a problem if I kept the chain taught. I may in fact have just had the chain too loose before, and can keep running the current ring if I'm careful...? In any case this is the first complete bike build I've ever done and have gone through similar growing pains with other parts of this bike.

Thanks for replying and being angry as hell. Calm your tits, I guess. I am also still learning all this shit.
>>
>>1078922
Stay away from Origin8 anything

They're not a real manufacturer of bike components they rebrand eBay shit

Don't put origin 8 shit on a nice bike
>>
>>1078922
>The crankset is a Dura-Ace FC7410 unit, very light and stiff. Better than anything else I could have gotten for the price.
Eh, no. You could have gotten an Alfine chainset for fifty bucks and it is objectively superior to your ghetto-ass ancient Dura Ace setup.
>>
>>1078931
Nah because dura ace was still forged back then you fucktard
>>
>>1078931
Also alfine only comes in 170mm manlet size
>>
>>1078931
Holy fuck, you have the nerve to call me an imbecile and ]keep pushing that Alfine shit? Sure, I'll throw a 45t chainring on there, that's not an odd size for single speed. Also works great with niche internally geared hubs and other kludge, sure. Didn't just say that such a shallow gear wouldn't work well for my intended task. No sir.
Imbecile.

>>1078926
I was put off by ALL of their stuff when I first started looking at parts. Really not sure what to think about your advice here, one guy says spend twenty dollars and you say absolutely not... Like, your advice is usually so trash but you've been unnervingly on the ball recently. Have you been replaced by a pod person? In any case I'd rather roll the price on the Litepro meme, at least there's a guard built in so I don't have to strap more shit to my already franken bike.
Was really hoping for more prescient advice from /n/ though, this board is usually a lot better about targeted advice. I'm just going to keep cruising single speed chainrings for a while; there was clearly some things I missed the first time I searched.

Oh, and also, I found out my master links were facing the wrong way out; maybe why the chain jumped? Yeah I'm uncomfortably between "competent" and "idiot".
>>
>>1078922
>super special delicate snowflake poster on 4chan
Let me guess you're from /pol/
>>
>>1079006
Yeah they're is a fucking reason why every other headset on the market is $40

And origin8 be like we got one for $3 shipped yo

Or every other brand of handlebar in the goddamn world starts at $39.99 and goes up from there

And origin 8 is like you $7 to your door
>>
>>1079006
>Like, your advice is usually so trash but you've been unnervingly on the ball recently.
I can give advice like that too. If you buy anything but top of the line dura ace, you're trash. Buy top of the line dura ace and you won't have quality problems. Maybe it's because you're buying the literal top of the line.
>>
>>1079036
I mean that he said a road bike with steel rims and
Oh fuck it here: >>1077979
Where he says a Schwinn Varsity is fine if you're just getting around. I can't remember this guy ever conceding anything like that. So maybe he's getting better about not being too elitist?
>>
>>1079047
That's lowercase sieg, not uppercase Sieg
>>
>>1079047
How is it being elitist.

Better shit is better, and not just by a little bit.

Like that one thread where the guy said how do I go 40mph like the pros.

Like you buy trash and expect it to perform like a dogma with di2

Like, cmon dude you got a DUI and you need something to get around on, you got the varsity the shifters are seized the seat post was sized since Tim Allen's home improvement was on.

And the tires have more crack than you have for the week.

But it works for what you need it to until you get back on your feet. Doesn't matter what tdf does on bikes with r&d budgets reaching 7 figures
>>
Looking for some purchasing advice. I'm a 330lb lard ass looking to buy a bike that will last me through the summer, I looked at local shops but they start at $700 Canadian, and I'm looking to spend closer to $200 or less. I'm 6' tall and basically just want something I can use to get riding again and lose some weight. I've heard department store bikes are a nightmare, but I don't want to spend $700 on a "high end" bike, just to have it fall apart because I'm too fat. Any help would be appreciated.
>>
>>1079526
go to the gym
>>
>>1079554

The closest gym is 45mins away by car, and I work until late. a bike is far more practical.
>>
>>1079526
- Find a '90s or '80s Trek/Specialized/Diamond Back/Mongoose rigid mountain bike. Better models have integrated derailleur hangers rather than those removable "claws."
- Have local bike shop/co-op give it a thorough overhaul.
- Start riding in 30min-1hr segments to build up stamina; use cheap cycle-computer or smartphone application (e.g. Strava) to log mileage.
- After 1st month of riding short distances, start extending ride time/distance. Do more hills/highway overpasses. If headwinds become too annoying, research MTB drop-bar conversion.
- ???
- PROFIT
>>
>>1079526
>Looking for some purchasing advice. I'm a 330lb lard ass looking to buy a bike that will last me through the summer, I looked at local shops but they start at $700 Canadian, and I'm looking to spend closer to $200 or less. I'm 6' tall and basically just want something I can use to get riding again and lose some weight. I've heard department store bikes are a nightmare, but I don't want to spend $700 on a "high end" bike, just to have it fall apart because I'm too fat. Any help would be appreciated.

You are going to want a rigid 90s MTB like the other poster said. Smaller wheel sizes are stronger. You should expect to destroy a few.

Post your local used market website
>>
>>1079526

After you find that old MTB, you're gonna want a good saddle. Sounds like you have a long ride ahead. You'll also want good brakes

Look for an XL mtb with V-brakes. If it has cantilever, the stopped power will be questionable for someone who is 300lb and lives where there is snow.

Riding in the winter is a whole other beast. You should expect to buy special tires, add fenders to the bike, and invest in a nice saddle like a Brooks
>>
Should I shave my legs or keep the covered in hair in a more fur like condition?
>>
So I got hit by a car and the insurance company has decided to give me $5000 for the replacement value of my bike. I've narrowed it down to two options.

The first is a brand new bike:
http://www.giantvancouver.com/en-ca/bikes/model/tcr.advanced.sl.2/29190/100716/#overview

The second is a year old, but a much higher spec:
https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/pml/bik/6143639926.html

Now, the 695 seems to be the obvious choice, but I'm cautious about buying used carbon bikes, and also if I get the new one I will have some warranty. The price after taxes will be the same, maybe even slightly less for the 695 if I offer 4500. What do you guys think?
>>
>>1079526
walk, then jog, then run

then once you're at a resonable weight that a bike can support (less than 200) than shop


at 350lbs you're going to wonder why you keep bending rimps, snapping spokes, seat posts keep sliding down into the frame, why your frame cracked at the bottom bracket

why your headset was indexed after 3 rides


you exert a lot of force on everything at that weight
>>
>>1080578

Well, the LOOK has real wheels.
The Giant does not.
>>
>>1080642
Actually giants slr1 wheelset is incredibly light. Only 1440g per pair.

After thinking overnight ive also realized another potential problem with the look: what if i EVER hsve to replace a mech or shifters or anything. Its di2 so theyre like $500 each!
>>
>>1080599
fuck off, sieg, your opinions are just plain wrong
>>
I have $1,500 for a road bike, what buy? I'm in the US and want new but I don't mind a previous year model.
>>
I live in the city limits and it's 5 mile ride into the city center. The roads here are crap and full of holes with no room left for bikes. I was thinking of getting a mountain bike to ride on the shoulder and survive bigger holes if I have to. Here are a few I was thinking of:

https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/bik/6151945236.html
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/bik/6150862989.html
>>
>>1080780
>The roads here are crap and full of holes with no room left for bikes
>Chicago
southside? I'm about 8 miles from the loop, northside and I find the infrastructure very accommodating unlike the southside. Even road conditions aren't bad at all, It's the entitled/oblivious drivers we got here that's the problem

I will say though, this city is one of the few cities I can bike faster than a traffic consistently given that it's FLAT here. Especially during grid lock rush hour traffic, biking is almost trolling during rush hour

both bikes look like shit deals btw
>>
>>1080780
>>1080782
well, if the Nishiki wasn't priced so high I'd jump on it because 90's rigid mtb
>>
>>1080782
Nah, I'm in northwest Indiana, one of the small towns outside Chicagoland. They've actually fixed up a lot of the roads here in recent years but my main route into town if still pretty shitty.
>>
>>1080784
>East Chicagoan
You're not a Chicagoan you lier, you're a farmboy indiana redneck

bantz aside, I understand now why your commute includes shittier roads
>>
Why doesn't my bike go straight when I ride without my hands? I tried to see if the frame isn't straight by tying a string passing the headtube to the dropouts. There was only 1mm error. Is that too much?
>>
Anyone have any recommendations for a good single speed?
I want to get a nice beater
>>
I don't want to make a new thread just have a quick question.

My mountain bike tires say 'Inflate to 40psi' and doesn't say that's the max PSI but I feel that's too low for the kind of riding I'm doing (95% perfectly flat bike trails) can I put in something more like 60-100psi? They are squishy to the touch and obviously deform when in motion. I weigh 200lbs.

What's on the sidewalls on the tire should'nt really matter, since it's the innertube being inflated, right?
>>
>>1080987
Tire pressure recommendations are just that, recommendations. I'd go with 60psi, I wouldn't break 70psi for mtb tires though.
The tire is what's holding back the tube from bursting out from the rim, it matters far more than the tube.
>>
>>1080988
That makes sense. So a MTB tire isn't really composed of rigid enough materials to support say, 120psi or whatever like on a roadbike?

It's a 29er, which I got knowing I'd mostly be on pavement. I got a MBT because it's important that I can bounce over the crown curbs around here.

I'll go with 60 psi and see how it works. I just feel like I'm working too hard to go at a reasonable speed. Otherwise I might buy different tires.
>>
>>1080990
With their much higher volume, mtb tires aren't made to support 120pis yes.

I assume you have knobby mtb tires? Get some slicks in a slightly smaller size, they'll roll faster on pavement.
>>
>>1080997
They are moderately knobby, yes. Around here I see people just run their knobbies down until they are slicks, I'm cheap so I'll probably run that route as well.

Turns out my tire psi was more like 25psi and not 40psi. I inflated them to 55/60 and it's a huge difference. Top gear at 60 rpms is somewhat less hellish now I can do it for a km without feeling like I sprinted up stairs the entire time.

I even bounced over some curbs to make sure they wouldn't explode.
>>
File: Trek Elance 300.jpg (317KB, 1280x960px) Image search: [Google]
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So i want to buy a road bike for city commuting and i found a shop that sells this Trek Elance 300 for 300€.
They Seller sais its ready to ride and if i should have any issues with it he will fix them for me.
I still think 300 is pretty expensive for such an old bike, what do you guys think?
>>
I'm roughly between 5'10"-5'11" and want a Raleigh Cadent 4.

Which size should I get? https://www.raleighusa.com/cadent-1255
>>
>>1081091
300 is pretty expensive for such an old bike
That being said, if I had that bike, I wouldn't sell it for anything less. I woudn't pay that much for it either.
>>
>>1081091
That 300 EuroShekel price should basically include the cost of a thorough refurbishment, so I'd say give it a go. Trek didn't make any crummy bikes at all in the '80s
>>
>>1081092
def. Lg. size, homeslice
>>
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203$ for this thing, too good to be true?
>>
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>>1075307
i run a 55 because i'm not a fucking manlet.

5'8" barely qualifies as human.

>when SEEG rides his teeeeny bicicleta to skeeewl
>>
>>1081185
makrokesz
>>
>>1081205
łot du ju min?
>>
>>1081187
Holy fuck 5'8 is even below womanlet tier.
>>
>>1081213
>shitposting this badly
>>
Poorfag question

Think I should buy it? Dude wants 80 euro for this thing, and I'm positive there's nothing better second hand wise around, looked for months in the 28'' range, only a bunch of 70-80s vintage garbage not even worth for scraps.
>>
>>1083041
Fuck no
>>
>>1083041
what brand is it?
>>
>>1083083

Bottecchia

>>1083073

Tried it, it was awkward to ride, not in the pristine shape he claimed it to be, for 50 I would've bought it but I made up some shit about the posture and my feet rubbing on the wheel as I turned, and I backed the fuck off.
>>
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Looking at a really minty Cannondale CAAD8 with original Tiagra groupset for $525 US.

Yay, nay?
>>
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Are those rims good for a bike used exclusively on the road? What good is this type of spoke setup?
>>
>>1083367
You could get a brand new CAAD8 with Claris for that money
>>
>>1074790
Im about to pull the trigger on a used 2010 BMC TM02 in really good condition.
It has Dura-Ace bar shifters and front and rear brakes
Ultegra front and rear derailleurs
FSA Fron NeoPro full carbon aero crankset
3T Aura Pro aero bar set
The guy is asking 1300USD but I'm thinking of offering him 1,000 to 1,100$ since the cassette and chain needs to be replaced.
Assuming there's no frame damage is this bike a good deal?
>>
>>1083411
Wheels?
>>
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>>1083414
Here's a picture of them. I can't read the writing on them but they have flat spokes. That's all I know about them.
>>
>>1083416
Mavic Ksyrium, really solid training wheels
>>
>>1078926
>mfw I didn't know any better and bought origin8 bullhorns for $20
>>
>>1083411
7 year old carbon bike with last gen dura ace at high-mid pricing
>>
>>1083416
Mavic meme wheels. Decent. But you can buy them all day everyday for $120 on Craigslist so they're not like "holy fuck must cop"


They ship factory on a lot of middling bikes and are a decent upgrade to tiagra equipped bikes.

I had them on my bike but then I sold them for twice what I paid.

I'd say buy the bike and sell all the old dura ace components off of it

Sell the wheels then build up the new dura ace group
>>
>>1083416
... are those dropouts missing something?
>>
>>1083431
I do love me some good memes.
The guy said he would do 1,000 for it.
Should I get new wheels or upgrade the components like you said?
>>
>>1083425
Your only wrongdoing is taking a sieg post seriously
>>
how do i know what size frame is good ?
im 5'10" btw
>>
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Looking for a single speed to use for short commutes to work and school. The frame size seems ideal. Seller is asking for $400, is this a fair price assuming nothing needs to be immediately replaced?

https://eugene.craigslist.org/bik/6176639834.html
>>
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Is this piece of shit worth 500 eurobucks?

>carbon frame
>ultegra 10v
>saddle and seat post in carbon too
>Marchisio wheels

Also I searched around but I'm not sure what year is it from, it think it is from around 2002/2003, any ideas of the name of the model and year?

Also is it even worth buying bikes that old?
>>
>>1084089
>Also is it even worth buying bikes that old?
Sure, why not? Are you looking for a Bike to train for? Have you ever ridden a Roadbike yourself? A De Rosa equipped with Ultegra is a pretty solid base, even for its age, as long as the Components work and everything is maintained. I for myself ride a Shimano RSX equipped Bike from the late 90s, and it just works and i even use it from time to time for training in the rain. Also for that Price you barely even get a used De Rosa frame from that Year, and you are getting a whole BIke with rather decent components, anything else depends on its condition and how much you want to spend
>>
>>1084091
I'm a newbie so I don't know how much fixing/maintenance an old bike needs, and since I'm paying 500€ I just wanted to know if old bikes are reliable enough without needing to change parts already etc.

I want to use it to do some long distance riding like 100/150km and then more with time, not really interested in races or whatever, it will be my first roadbike.

Thanks for clarifying about the price btw, now I can buy it with more confidence.
>>
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>>1075163
Going for this one as a commuter bike.
1500€
>>
>>1084087
For what the bike is, the price seems decent.
The frame is aluminum though which will transfer more road vibrations/bumps up to you but at the benefit of being lighter than a steel frame.
As long as you're the right height for the frame you should be good.

That being said, I feel like you'd be able to get a better deal on a cheaper bike considering you would only be using it for short commutes.
I'm not from your area so I have no idea what the second hand bike scene is like there so ymmv
>>
>>1084101
Thanks a lot for your input. I'll probably continue looking for less expensive single speeds since my commute is pretty short. My biggest issue with my local used bike market is that most of the bikes are a bit too small.
>>
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help a bike illiterate n00b out, what kind of entry level bike should i look for to commute on? (~15km round trip in the city)? the road is flat and comfy, i've been borrowing a bike from [spoiler]my sister[/spoiler] but she wants it back
>>
>>1084124
Get the same bike you sister has.
>>
>>1084124
Get whatever. I just recommend getting something you'd find fun to ride, and that isn't uncomfortable.
>>
>>1084124
90s rigid MTB with slicks
>>
So I'm looking for a bike to commute to uni and back daily

I don't cycle already but I'll be studying in Konstanz, Germany for a year and cycling seems like the best option to get around given how nice public transport is (compared to UK)

I was looking already and wondering what's the general opinion of "Giant-bicycles"? or if there's anything better maybe?

My commute is max 4.5km & budget is around 900 dollars max but of course cheaper is better especially given muh first bike
>>
>>1084089

So I went to see it and it's in pretty good conditions but it has a bit of troubles at changing to the lowest gear in the back, the last one is a different color so maybe it was added later?
Is this a minor problem or it may be a bigger issue?
>>
>>1083399
It looks cool
>>
>>1084302
p sure it's too small, im a dude

>>1084306
ok. is it safe to look into used bikes? i'm a poor student

>>1084335
i-i will look into the meaning of those words...
>>
>>1084567
MTB : mountain bike
rigid: not equipped with any suspension
slicks: slick tires/tyres
>>
>Please note this item is not available to the delivery country you have selected.

anybody know why I get this on some bikes on evanscyles?
>>
>>1084899
Specialized and some others demand that their bikes aren't being sold abroad or some shit.

I guess they are trying to create business for the LBS, but if your LBS doesn't have their bikes then you are fucked.
>>
>>1084909
im from sweden looking at a fuji touring i was recommended on another thread and i got that message

i get the same with bromptons for example
>>
>>1084921
A shitheap called Cykelringen (never buy there - google why) has the sole right to sell Fuji in Sweden. Brompton also have weird retail zoning restrictions.
>>
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Got this 1999 Cannondale R800 Compact at a local Goodwill for $25. Thoughts? As a poorfag casual rider using it for trips around town, I think I got damn lucky. I'm a bit tall for it but I don't give a shit.

Other than old shit tires, it didn't need any repairs, just slightly dirty (thinking it was garaged by prior owner). Not exactly stock, either, but whatever.
>>
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>>1085103
I forgot to mention that I got it 2 months ago and it's riding fine. Funny enough, it also came with a working computer. It's older than the bike (1994 if I remember) but it works fine and it looks nice being somewhat era accurate.
>>
>>1085103
>>1085104
Great find
You may want to consider getting a long ass stem, riding a bike too small for you with swept back bars can't be very comfortable
>>
>>1084921

take the four corners, mang !
>>
>>1085107
The only uncomfortable part about it for me is the seat itself after long rides. Other than that I have no complaints. I've heard countless bikefags point out that I need a much larger bike, but honestly I think they are full of shit. Maybe if I were touring I'd notice this discomfort everyone talks about, but I only ride it a few miles around my city.

The only real issue I've run into riding a bike this size is the turning radius can suffer because the tire can hit my opposite foot if it's in the front position. I've gotten used to this quirk, though.
>>
>>1085103
Hey Anon, great find!
Should you want to try a longer stem, I have a 1"1/4 150mm (i think, have to measure again) one from a 1992 R700 That I would happily trade for your shorter one. Yours look like a smaller diameter though...

Saw >>1085116 after writing this, but well, I need a shorter stem, so I may as well try asking!
>>
>>1085118
I'm going to wait it out for now and see. Being that this is the nicest bike I've ever owned, I'm still fawning over it a bit. Maybe, later on, I will start finding flaws and parts to upgrade on it.
>>
>>1085129
Try going for a longer, leisure ride. You'll get a better feel of your bike and see if something needs replacing.
>>
>>1077283
>27" wheels
There's nothing particularly wrong with this but it limits your tire selection somewhat since it is an obsolete size. I had a pretty good 4130 Schwinn with 27" wheels and downtube shifters.
>>
>>1074790
What kind of handlebar tape do you guys like? Gel, foam, cork, or cotton? What color would look good?

My bike: >>1082460
>>
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>>1078696
Thank you very much, I bought it and it was great until something happened with the chain but i sold it for $180 a day later.

>>1074790
Is this worth it for $190? I brought it down from $270. Specialized Allez
>>
>>1085449
Would cop
>>
File: Screenshot_20170627-162703.png (896KB, 1080x1920px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1085449
Or should I get this Diamondback Podium 1 for $150. Please respond
>>
Another worthless degenerate looking for your perspective. Looking for a daily commuter, ~$300, mostly road. I saw this, is it fair?
https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/bid/6191253489
>>
>>1085491
Derp, fucked up the link:
https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/bid/6191253489.html
>>
>>1085493
Shimano RSX seems old. I think it's a 90s bike. I would personally pay like $150 for it
>>
>>1074790
I have a 55cm peugeot that I find too small for me. Can i in theory buy a bigger frame, say 60, and replace the old one keeping all the same parts?
>>
>>1085493
Those Trek touring bikes seem a bit too fancy to be practical commuters… I'd go for that Diamondback Transporter myself.
(but please level that rear rack if you do buy it)
>>
>>1085652
Not likely, unless the new frame is also a French frame, because they usually have odd measurements
>>
File: look.png (843KB, 1162x707px) Image search: [Google]
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Is there a catch I should be looking for? All the pictures look clean and normal, but this seems like a really fucking good deal on a frame I've had my eye on located right in my town.
>>
>>1085449
what size frame is it, and where do you live?
>>
File: Screenshot_20170627-182624.png (874KB, 1080x1920px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1086034
58cm, I live in San Diego, California located in the United States of America.

I'm also looking at pic related it's also 58cm, he agreed to $140 but said i can pick bit up on Saturday (probably making time for better offers).
>>
>>1085951
Size XL frames are almost always dirt cheap

Since people like to buy them thinking they need them because they're so tall and being tall is a good trait.

Then serious cyclists figure out proncyclists size down like two or 3 frame sizes for a better position and go after the 48-50-52-54 in demand sizes

56-compact design frame is about as big as you want
>>
>>1086069
Nigga that bike is closer to 63cm than 58cm
>>
File: trek 10x2speed.png (407KB, 361x640px) Image search: [Google]
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I need a training bike, found this trek 1.5 20 speed (tiagra), it's €336.
what say you?
>>
I've been interested in getting a mountain bike for light trail use and maybe some commuting. Does anyone know if I could put 27 wheels with some smaller tires maybe 1.25 with less tread?

Also is this a solid deal?
Thanks.
>>
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>>1086879
forgot to add image
>>
>>1086712

not bad
>>
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Where do people actually get bare bike frames from? I can track down every other part from wheels to cable nipples, but no frames bar $1500+ carbon fred machines.
>>
>>1088636
Pretty sure you can find them on any chink shit site like aliexpress, bangood or such
>>
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pass or play my dudes?
>>
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>>1075323
>i'm 5'8"
when will they learn?
>>
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This bike is been up on CL for at least a year now and dropped from around $100. Is it worth the $60 with only three speeds working? I assume it only needs a RD adjustment.
>>
>>1089186
New chain + barrel adjustment should set the gears back to order. Worst case you'll need to re-do the cable.
Or maybe spend $50 on STI shifters.
>>
>>1089186
Pass on Continentals (and their Varsity siblings). The frame—and every component bar the brake calipers—is 1010 high-tensile steel, which makes the bike a complete boat anchor.
>>
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found this waterford x 11 steel cyclocross on craigslist. from my understanding waterford was a small company that made stuff like this in the 2000's. before cyclocross hipsters i geuss. how much would u guys buy this for? I have no idea what to offer. im looking to make a 1x commuter that i wont worry about being locked up in rougher neighborhoods.
>>
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Anyone know what year this bike is from?
>>
>>1091112

early/mid 90s
>>
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Every time I look at my local cl there's some crazy-looking shit on there.

Like, "people actually ride this?"
>>
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>been riding MTB spds for years on all my bikes including road bikes and downhill bikes
>finally get LOOK Keos
>stumble around for what seems eternity trying to clip at every green light
Please help.
>>
>>1091231
Practice. Lean against a wall and just spend time practicing until you can get it.
>>
>>1091225
I'd ride it
>>
>>1091231
Get SPD-SL instead!
>>
>>1091225
I feel the same way every time I see a saddle slammed in an old lugged ten-speed.
>>
>>1076490
>What is riding a bike down a hill
>>
>>1083367
For $100 yes, for 525 you are getting assfucked
>>
is this a good cop for a first time road bike?

Keeping in mind that I am 6'4", should I look into bigger frames?

https://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/bik/d/cannondale-caad/6222756810.html
>>
>>1091436
It's a decent deal since it seems to be almost brand new, but it's way too small for you.
>>
>>1091437
what size should I look into getting, 58, 60?
>>
>>1091438
More like 62 - 64
They're harder to come by but they're also cheaper since they're harder to get rid of too.
>>
File: bike.jpg (147KB, 768x1024px) Image search: [Google]
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should i cop or avoid? for 70€
my budget is basically 100€ max
i definitely want mud covers so most racing bikes are out of question, unless it is possible to add that to them?
so whats the best i can do for that price?
>>
>>1078784
So what's your road bike then faggot?
>>
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>>1091445
or should i go above my budget and get his for 130€?
>>
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>>1091465
wrong pic
>>
>>1091466
seems i cant save picture from ebay nvm
>>
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capecod.craigslist.org/bik/d/cm-velo-orange-campeur/6197042792.html
>Bike has only 30 miles on it.
>$1800
im ded
>>
5ft 8 manlet here. I recently moved to australia to a place near melbourne. Budget is under 700AUD. What's a good commuter bike for going to my workplace which is about 5 miles away and commuting across the city on weekends?
>>
i just bought this for 65€
i plan on losing those bullhorn things
its kinda heavy but i guess thats to be expected
any recommends what else i can do to it to make it better?

also sorry for screenshot image, i havent taken a picture myself since its dark so lifted the picture from the ad
>>
>>1091854
Echoing this question, except in 700 freedomcash instead of cuckbucks.
>>
Telling you guys what, these GP4000II tyres are fun but man, they're weak. Got a tear on one from just riding over pebbles. Gonna stick to gatorskins.
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