Scored a 1977 Miyata liberty brand new, it is so new the tires

>corroded spokes
>rust covered BB shell
>grimey drivetrain
b-but the tires are new

>>1045358
>tires are new
40 year old rubber my dude, I wouldn't risk riding on those
>>1045335
This is not new, look at the chainrings. Not bad for $75 but you will have some work to do. Please replace tires, tubes, brake pads and cables if you are planning to ride it.
Also do something about the rust spots.

>>1045376
Actually the tires look brand new.

>>1045335
m88, it's 2017 so that bike is 40 years removed from brand new

1024 steel frame (possibly butted), nice Suntour bar-cons, fairly heavy... good runabout/beater. Give it a good cleanup. If rims are Al-alloy, see about re-lacing with double-butted stainless steel spokes... if steel, see about scoring a set of Al 700C-size wheels from nearest bike co-op, plu longer-reach brake calipers. Kool-Stop salmon-compound brake pads are your friend; buy two pair post-haste. Lube the chain & check all bearings for roughness/noise.

>>1045358
Have you ever seen something after it sits in a shed for 40 years? Shit gets nasty. Chainrings look perfectly good. Paint looks good too. Just needs some cleaning. Nice catch op, they are hard to find... and usually they slap a $400 price on them.

>>1045335
You should take apart the BB, Headset, and Hubs. Clean out the old grease because it's probably gunked up and put some fresh lube in there. The stem might be seized pretty badly into the fork, good luck with that.

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>>1045335
>40 years old
Clean every piece of that bike, eliminate the rust and proceed to do pic related.

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>>1045335
>>1045421

On my way to college, I'll reply to others after I'm out.

Precisely. ill be buying a degreaser, wd40? I've also got some other ones at home i dont trust them, however they do read degreaser on the back of the labels but they are for carpets... some oil from the store. Recommendations? I live in San Diego and the climate here is generally wet, so a wet grease would provide some protection.

Here are some photos of the group set

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Excuse the camera angles, the app won't accept the edits.

>>1045438
>those teeth on the two biggest sprockets
What the shit

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Another

>>1045441
Yeah, it's just muck. Not rust it's mostly dust

>>1045443
I mean the huge gaps between the teeth

>>1045443
This is where most of it is. Fortunately the chain seems okay.

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>>1045444
Ah. Haha yeah it feels weird shifting its mostly guessing nothing going is indexed

>>1045446
Again, not what I mean. Look at the distance between each teeth on each of the sprockets. The biggest two sprockets have huge gaps between each teeth. Never seen something like that before.

>>1045441
That is most unusual, maybe someone ground them off to save weight. Or it's just a cheapo freewheel? I've never seen that before.

OP, please take off the dork disk and chainring guard.

>>1045441
I think that was a pre-Hyperglide attempt at making shifting easier. Something tells me that that's an old SunTour freewheel

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>>1045493
>>1045447
>>1045464
>to save weight
lolno

Previous anon is right, the skip tooth large cogs were made that way to aid in shifting, and no, they don't really help much in practice. They're quite possibly the heaviest freewheels ever made.

>>1045506
I had 3, 20 minute rides in it and to no one's surprise it's hard to shift. I was very careful not to push it because it hasn't been maintained yet (today is my day off) when it shifts properly it feels fantastic, it is kind of heavy I also removed the shoe cages.

unfortunately It's been 2 years without a bike and my ass is reminding me of it... might be looking for a new seat that improves circulation.

I am going to a bike shop today, I need and get some advice about tools cleaning, and replacement parts. hopefully I'll find a shop to call home.

>>1045654
Def. need new brake cables & derailer cables. STAINLESS STEEL ONLY

say, there, OP; would it kill you to post a frigging pic of the entire bike?

scored an '87 Miyata 312 off CL maybe 5 years ago for $180. A great bike.
>>1043893

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.

>>1045686
Sorry man I've been incredibly busy. I want to find a nice place to take a photo once I am done I'll get to that soon I hope.

I was told by the bike store owner that the bike is in really good shape however he wanted to charge me 120 for all the bike tune-up I don't have that kind of money at the moment but Ill be trying to become his friend for sweet discounts in the future.

I am currently taking the grease gunk off all the group set without taking it apart too much. I'll be needing a pin tool to get to the ball bearings, what I have available won't open my freewheel unfortunately.

I think this was the culprit of the sluggish speed down hill, I am exited once I get this out of the way actually...

this beauty will be incredibly fast.

>>1045732
I doubt you'll need to crack open the freewheel… and I REALLY doubt you'd be able to put it back together again. Check out "RJ the Bike Guy" on YT for videos of basic maintenance procedures

>>1045732
>I'll be needing a pin tool to get to the ball bearings

the bearings in your *hub* may need (probably need) new grease, but to service the freewheel you pour oil (like motor oil) down into it. opening up the freewheel with a pin spanner will end in tears.

let me see if I can find the thing I wrote…
https://archive.nyafuu.org/n/search/text/mustard%20bottle/

>>brand new
>>bottom bracket is scratched


You bought a used bike, a shit tier one at that. Congrats

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>>1045732
>I was told by the bike store owner that the bike is in really good shape however he wanted to charge me 120 for all the bike tune-up I don't have that kind of money at the moment but Ill be trying to become his friend for sweet discounts in the future.
Don't.

You will never need a LBS if you learn to do the sutuff yourself. With the money saved you can purchase aditional stuff. Many times you will go to the LBS and he will just order the stuff from internet and you will pay for that, instead of purchasing the stuff yourself from internet at a lower price.

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>>1045864
update, the bike did improve drastically after cleanup, (who knew? ) shifting is easier and it goes on for longer down hill. I made sure to add not too much wet oil. So far I need to adjust the front derailleur as it falls from the chain ring when shifting to the bigger ring.

Yesterday I learned a ton about this bike I took it apart and reassembled it and had it running okay ish. I'm going to continue to learning how to index speeds until I get it right.

Question, why does the back derailleur have a plastic case? Is it so that the metal doesn't wear out from friction? I'm talking about the part that houses the spring that connects to the arm with the derailleur itself, it gives the derailleur it's whipping motion when pulled.

I need to replace it. (can't make an omelet without breaking some eggs first...) lucky the parts are cheap

>>1045987
The plastic casing exists only because cheap; 1970s Shimano 600 is nowhere near as quality as post-6200 Shimano Tricolor 600/Ultegra. Almost any friction-compatible detailer should work as a replacement; indexed hearing did not even exist in 1977.

Read the fuck out of the Sheldon Brown website -- especially the glossary. Also, have the bike shop perform a hub refurbishment & wheel truing; it should cost much less than $120 and will be well worth the price.

>>1046034
>indexed hearing
son of a bitch... that should read "indexed gearing"