New /BQG/ Old one at: >>999284 Yes, I was: >>1002270

Got a new bike and I'm trying to dial in the fit.

I'm getting a dull ache in my thumbs/palms when I ride on the hoods, this is my first time using drop bars. Does that indicate that there is too much reach to the drops and I'm putting too much weight on my hands as a result? Or am I just adjusting to a new handlebar position?

>>1003114
Is your saddle level to the ground?

>>1003115
Yeah seems level, should I try tilting it back a bit?

>>1002954
i know it's about 20mm shorter that's why i thought about the ECR as it's 4mm shorter, also i did think of the on-one carbon fork as it's offered in a 470mm 29er version which would almost be a direct match, but no idea when it'll be £100 again.

>>1003118
try to make the saddle and top of bars parallel to the ground as perfectly as you can, thats the standard setup. use it for awhile and see if that helps

Just saw someone ride a carbon bike with maybe 105 with the seat slammed down and regular flat pedals, also the stickers were removed and the guy was cycling on the sidewalk, whats the chance it was stolen? im also in toronto.

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Is 2500 a fair asking price for this stumpjumper? The owner said it retailed 6k. I liked it but i dont want to have buyers remorse. It weighed about 20 pounds and is 10spd X0

>>1003246

>fancy carbon
>stickers

Something's not right here

>>1003246
A carbon 105 being treated like a bmx?
It was either stolen, bought from a mate who stole it or bought from a pawn shop (after being stolen) or...yeah, I don't have anything else.

The pedals don't mean that much though, they mostly come with flat pedals, everyone sticks their own lock pedals on.

>>1003294
>stickers
I'm sure anon meant the decals. I can't think why a thief would remove the Bianchi decal or whatever though.

I suppose there is the barest possibility that it was bought on extreme discount from a bike shop that either went out of business or it was a many years old model that needed to be tossed to make room for new stock.

>>1003365
>they mostly come with flat pedals, everyone sticks their own lock pedals on.

A lot of higher end bikes don't come with pedals at all.

What's the best solvent for cleaning chain?

Just took off my rear wheel to replace the cassette, put lock ring tool in. Won't budge either way. Isn't this shit supposed to spin one way, like the whole point of buying a chain whip is to stop it spinning? What is wrong with this free wheel?

had trouble with my chain falling off when changing from small front sprocket to big. I tightened the front derailleur so it shifts but it make a massive grinding sound during the shift. Do I need to loosen?

>>1003486
>>1003486
You need the chain whip only to open it. Just did that yesterday and it was a lot tighter than I expected. Just use force

>>1003490
I'm trying to open it and it won't move either way. So there is clearly no chain whip needed right now. I've whacked some WD40 on there and I'll see if that loosens it up. I think it might be rusted in place.

>>1003492
Does your cassette not coast when you aren't pedalling? If it coasts, you need a chain whip (or some imagination), because the locknut is untightened the same direction as the freewheel mechanism coasts.

>>1003493
The cassette spins freely as it should. The lock nut will not move.

Haven't had a roadie long and riding the other day I noticed the back end felt similar to a flat tyre, squirming at times.

The tyre pressure was fine but I do weigh 95kg. Is this a symptom of wheels that aren't particularly stiff or something else?

>>1003496
What width/pressure are you running it at?

>>1003494
update on this. cassette is now moving independently of the lock nut. still can't get it off. tfw i don't even lift

>>1003500

Unsure of rim width but the tyres are 700x25. Running between 100 and 105psi.

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>>1003506
update on this. depressed now.

>>1003529
update on update
turns out my bike doesn't use a cassette it uses a free hub and i've wasted £15 on a cassette that doesn't fit my wheel and i took it out of the box so i can't return it now because i'm impatient.

>>1003279
if that's carbon i'd give 1000 at most, as that's about 4 or 5 years old.
if it's aluminium i'd give 500.

>>1003484
isopropyl alcohol or WD40.

>>1003554
That's hilarious

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http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2006&brand=Specialized&model=Stumpjumper+FSR+Expert
What type of a bike this is?

I have a chance to get this frame for free. If built with the right components, would it be possible to use the bike as an all mountain bike? I have a bike park near me and it would be nice to be able to use the bike there.

If the frame is not suitable for that, could someone suggest a good entry level alternative then? I'd rather get just the frame so I have a project during winter. I have a friend with a rockshox totem air fork (180mm travel, 1,5" steerer) that he doesn't use and he could sell it to me for 100€, is it a reasonable price for that fork? And just to make sure, I'm not planning on putting it to the Specialized frame.

>>1003554
I feel you bro. Always happens to me when I try to do something on my bike. I fell for so many memes that I have to buy special parts for my bike that are fucking expensive and the normal cheap parts don't fit.

Okay so after my fuck up I am deciding whether to buy a new rear wheel with a freehub or buy a new freehub hub and reuse my old rim/spokes.

Is assembling a wheel around a new hub going to cause me massive headaches?

>>1003592
What wheelbuilding experience do you have? It's probably the most difficult bike related maintenance thing and pretty much the only thing I still use LBS mechanics for.

>>1003599
Zero. I'm happy to pay an LBS to do it, but if that is going to cost as much as buying a new wheel... then I'd rather just buy the new wheel.

>>1003605
Sheldon is a good place to start reading about wheel building but if you don't have high end wheels it's going to be cheaper to just buy a whole new wheel.

Why are you changing from freewheel to freehub anyway? are you switching to a groupset with more speeds? Why not just buy a new freewheel cassette?

>>1003611
Yeah I stumbled across Sheldon's page. I read several hours over multiple sittings which is time I'm happy to put in. I found the selection of 7 speed free wheel hubs available to be very limited and figured long term I'm going to want to switch.

>>1003589
finding a fork which'll fit is going to be hard, as most new forks have tapered steerer tube, and shock mounts have changed as well.

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So, I just bought an OTS, and it has 25mm front and 28mm back tires.

I'm gonna change them anyway, but it got me thinking, how bad is it to have differently sized tires?

>>1003636
it's not

>>1003599
Wtf bro, it's work of 15 minutes, I did that yesterday without any experiance.

>>1003625
Tapered steerer is a fucking meme. You'll fing a normal for easily.

>>1003644
>build a wheel in 15 minutes
>no experience
cool story bro

>>1003592
Replacing a hub in an existing wheel generally doesn't make sense because you're unlikely to find a replacement hub with exactly the same dimensions, so you end up needing to replace spokes anyways.

>>1003589
>What type of a bike this is?
A flat bar road bike with suspension. Go to Decathlon.

How long do you expect bib shorts to last? I've had mine for 2 years now and the elastics seem to be peeling off the fabric. A large chunk of the bib is made from the elastic mesh, and it's getting more and more transparent recently.

>>1003063
What is that

>>1003721
Looks like a broken STI lever body to me.

>>1003703
If you only own one pair of bibs and use them everyday I wouldn't be surprised to see them showing signs of wear after two years. But if it's not like you've literally ridden them apart, then it could be a manufacturing defect.

>>1003554
Mate , when in doubt , sheldon will provide

>>1003554

Welcome to DIY bike mechanics. Where everything costs 3x more than you budgeted for, the work is never finished, and you slowly go insane

>>1003612
>Yeah I stumbled across Sheldon's page. I read several hours over multiple sittings which is time I'm happy to put in. I found the selection of 7 speed free wheel hubs available to be very limited and figured long term I'm going to want to switch.
>>1003605

Remember you're going to need a new shifter if you are going from 7 speed to 8 speed in the back

And remember that a 7 and 8 speed hubs and cassettes are not compatible with each other

And remember your bike might have 27" wheels which are no the same as 700c

You should just build a hydro dick brake 1x Soma Wolverine bike packing rig and get it all over with

>>1003648
the inexperienced are not restricted by our petty concepts of "quality" or "proper workmanship".
Just throw some wheel sticks onto the tire and tighten them up so the wheel won't hit your hang down and you'll be all right.

>>1003612
A used 7spd freewheel cost me $2 at my local bike co-op. So far it's working pretty good.

>>1003760
I thought 7/8spd shimano freewheel stuff was compatible? once you go 9spd the spacing changes and the chain is different though.

>>1003774
>I thought 7/8spd was compatible?
Nope, spacing between cogs is slightly narrower with 8-speed.

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This is my current project, can anyone tell me anything about this bike? It seems to be ISO

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Is this some kind of scam shop? (Planet-X in the uk). This price is way too good.

>>1003810
No, it just sells a lot of low quality shit.

>>1003811
How does selling low-quality shit enable one to sell decent shit at ridiculous prices?

>>1003803
where is that? i plan to go to a bike co-op to cut my steerer tube.

>>1003854
SF

>>1003854
>where is that? i plan to go to a bike co-op to cut my steerer tube
No, you just want the hot, skinny asian chick as a bikefu.

tfw...

I went to my lbs to try on some helmets and the best fit was a Kask Mojito but it's pretty expensive.

My head seems to be quite narrow, most helmets are either flat out too big or put pressure on the front and back of my head. Does anyone else have the same problem? If so could they recommend a helmet that fits?

>>1003932
>If so could they recommend a helmet that fits?
You can buy, or lbss often have, spare bits of foam that you put in to adust the fit.

You know the foam strips that helmets all have in there? You can just stick some extra ones of those in.

>>1003980
Also, most helmets are adjustable these days.

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>>1003932
my head is like that so i look like a dork in most helmets- i went with this bell so i dont look as much like a mushroom tip.

>>1003760
I'm sticking with 7 speed. but finding a wheel that has a 7 speed freehub isn't exactly easy.
>>1003758
i'm trying to be cool about it. i'm new, things will fuck up. i love cycling, but it's easy to see why so many people just say fuck it and buy a new bike. at least bikes are pretty recyclable.

>>1004018
never mind Wilkinson Wheels do them, just got to find a stockist.

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Question:

Should I do up my current commuter to get back into proper riding (re-fit rear mech, see if I can find my downtube shifters or buy some new ones, plus service my brakes)

Or should I just buy a cheap new road bike for £250? (pic related)

>>1004031
I'd personally say definitely do the former. If you spend 250 quid on whatever you've got it would hopefully come out way ahead.

>>1004032

True. I probably should do that.

I guess even I buy new shifters and new brakes that will be maybe £70. Although I might need a new front mech too because I think the old one is busted. So £100.

>>1003803
>can anyone tell me anything about this bike? It seems to be ISO
Looks like an early 90's Peugeot, the ISO threads and fillet brazing make me suspect it was produced in Japan or Taiwan (apparently there were some) instead of France. But that might be completely wrong, because the only hit I get in google is a sale listing on a .de site. I have a mystery Peugeot road frame from the the same period and have never been able to learn much about it, there's not much documentation online about Peugeot's late bicycle production.

>>1003812
Close outs, volume sales, minimal markup, buying stock directly from manufacturers. Keep in mind that typical retail prices for bike stuff are double the wholesale price.

>>1004031
Really depends whether your old bike is decent quality and fits you or not. If it's a good bike that fits you, definitely repair before replacing.

>>1003810
it's legit, i got my geax tattoo's from them for $12 a pair.

Question about socks.

What is your preference?
Is there any advantage to having tall ones vs. no-show?

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>>1004051

Up to a few inches above the ankle.

I can't stand no-show ones.

>>1004066
I can't stand those on your picture, especially stripped. Godddamn fuccbois

>>1004067

Well whatever, it's the length I'm referring to

>>1004042
It says MADE IN FRANCE on it, and it has CrMo markings on it all I can find about it are German sites with randoms selling it and they're saying it has 28" tires so this is a 700C

>>1004051
are cycling socks a meme? or can i use ant generic athletic wear sock?

>>1004067
obnoxiously colored socks or shoes are great

>>1004051
6 inch is the minimum length

>>1003803
yr fucking gay

>>1003989
Sweet looking helmet.

>>1004156
>are cycling socks a meme? or can i use ant generic athletic wear sock?
You pump a lot of blood through your feet, having them be thin in the right places helps with cooling (if you have shoes that have airflow).

So long as you they're not to thick, any sock should be fine, you also don't need any padding/cushioned soles like a lot of sport socks have. I love the fit of cycling socks too, tight in exactly the right places for pedalling.

>>1004018
You can use an 8/9/10 free hub body with a 7 speed cassette. You will need to place a 4 mm spacer behind the cassette though. Most well stocked bike shops should be able to set you up. Remember to adjust the limits on your derailleur.

>>1004156
>cycling socks
I added a pair of socks to an online order to get over the free shipping threshold once and thought they were so good I placed another order of just socks. They made me notice little things about regular socks that make a big difference. Things like slightly bunching up under the toes, rubbing in certain areas, being gradually pulled down at the back of the heel, lack of breathabilty... All little things that I didn't notice about my regular socks until I tried tight fitting cycling socks.

Take from that what you will.

>>1004042
>>1004048
Ok, thanks. Guess I'll pull the trigger on a pair.

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I'm 6'3" and I'm getting my first FH bike. Would the size L in the chart be too small for me? The guy selling says that it would fit well, but I want to hear other people's opinions.

>>1004269
>FH bike
Obviously I meant a DH bike

Where can I buy gluten free degreaser to clean my chain?

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>>1004272
>Where can I buy gluten free degreaser to clean my chain?
>2016
>using unrefined 'natural' degreaser made from shit straight out of the ground.

Get with the program
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

>>1004250
>All little things that I didn't notice about my regular socks until I tried tight fitting cycling socks.
I agree, the design of cycling socks is kind of amazing compared with something from a department store that's just a tube of cotton.

One difference though is that you don't really walk in cycling socks, they only really need to be good for about two foot positions.

I'm looking to build a touring wheelset. What's a good rim and hub for touring? I have dick brakes and all that comes up when i ddg is rim brake rims

>>1004330
oh and i'm using 2x10

>>1004330
You want a dynamo hub on the front.
Other than that it doesn't really matter. Some people like Rohloffs for touring because of reduced maintenance issues.

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>>1004332
I've already bought solar panels for a recent tour so I'll probably skip the dynamo hub.

Which rohloff hub is recommended? I'm really completely lost right now as there are like a million things to choose from and I have no Idea where to start

If you have any specific recommendations I'd be happy as a clam

>>1004330
would DT Swiss TK 540db do the job? They only come in 32h, and I fear it's too low?

>>1004353
32 should be fine unless you're a huge fatass

>>1004338
>Which rohloff hub is recommended
The meme isn't that specific.

>>1004330
>>1004353
Why not a rim-brake rim? There's nothing that will prevent you from puting a disc brake hub in there. The TK-540 is a bulletproof, welded-joint, modern tubeless rim that is available with 36-spoke drilling; don't let the machined brake track stop you.

Shimano M756A hubs are basically bulletproof.

>>1004324
Do people actually take the time to do this?

What are some nice 700x32 SLICK tires for commuting? Not looking for Marathon-tier puncture protection but not a thin racing tire either

>>1004473
Vittoria Randos, Sporty with decent flat protection.

>>1004475
or voyager hypers
there is also the marathon supreme is a more sporty marathon

My right SPD pedal started clicking louder and louder. I cleaned and lubed it all up aswell as tightened the screws a little but it's still clicking when pedaling.

Is this common with the basic SPDs?

>>1004490
you need to change the bearings.

>>1004470
once a week

Super wide mtb handlebars, like in the 800 mm range, anybody here ride with them? Pros/cons? I'm trying to find some opinions that aren't from like...5 years ago

>>1004473
Giant has some in their PSL and SR ranges. I have the AC0 which is their best puncture protection, and I like them a lot. They grip better in the wet than my Vittoria Rando's do, and I've not gotten a flat in the 2k miles I've put on them.

>135 rear spacing
>road cranks
>external bb

my chain keeps popping of the right side of the big ring when I peddle hard in the highest two gears. Would putting some spacers on the bb fix the problem?

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>>1004490

It needs rebuilding. There's few guides on youtube on how to do it. If it's early enough, the bearings might not need replacing.

>>1004512

The limit setting on the front derailleur is way too loose if the chain can fall off the outside.

>>1003063
How the heck do you fit your clipless shoes? I can't get rid of knee pain in my right knee no matter how far in our out the cleat is!

>>1004518
maybe its your bike fit rather than the cleats?

>>1004519
What other variables are there? My saddle height is proper and the general bike size/stem length is correct

>>1004523

Where is the pain on your knee?

>>1004531
In my current cleat arrangement, there is a dull pain underneath my patella that appears after about 15 miles or so. I can shift my cleats to position my foot farther out but then my ankle feels pressured.

>>1004531
>>1004534
I just don't want to shell out 150 dollars for a bike fit when I feel like I can eventually tweak the situation into a resolved state. But it's been months now and I'm going slowly crazy

>>1004534

I had pain on the low inside of my patella after about 40 miles, and moving the cleat back and inward a little took care of it.

Also, I wouldn't write off the saddle being set wrong. It being too low is a big one for knee pain.

>>1004543
Moving the cleat backwards, huh? I never thought about shifting the fore/aft position of the cleat. I'll try it, thanks!

>>1004518
>>1004534
hamstring inflexibility is often related to knee pain, FYI

stretch more, also pedal faster

>>1004501
Plz respond

I'm trying to outfit my mtb for winter since I finally have a bike I feel I could make more than capable of handling that Midwestern weather. I've got wide bars, wide tires, and I'm looking for some fenders too

>>1004548
Cool, I'll definitely try all of the advice given here. Thanks everyone!

How do I see my total distance for this year or of all time on strava?

I just now realized that my fitbit links into strava and I must know

>>1004560
Profile page

>>1004565
ty

2000 km since june. not bad right?

Recommend me some good new bar tape, probably 3mm class.

>>1004518
I think you should eat more carbs, use compression bandages when riding, use ice when not riding, reduce the amount of hours on your bike for a while, increase your cadence to a minimum of 100 that should sort you untill you find the right cleat alignment (it should always be located on the ball of your foot)

>>1004551
Why does it matter if the opinions are from 5 years ago? Super wide bars haven't suddenly become obsolete. The widest I've used is 760mm and personally 800mm would be too much and actually an unnecessary amount of leverage, but I suppose if you're a big guy it could be more comfortable.

>>1004269
The manufacturer's site should have size recommendations. As the L is the largest size I would imagine it's not going to be too small for you.

>>1003589
AM bikes typically have more travel, like 140-170mm. That would end up being more of an XC or Enduro bike (I'm not 100% sure on all these bullshit terms that marketers come up with). That said it may very well still fit your needs, as you don't really know what an AM bike is (which is understandable) you may not actually need one.

As for the fork, it's a good price if you can make use of it. If your plan is to sell it on don't expect to make a quick sale or a ton of profit as they market for straight 1.5" forks is tiny. I find a lot of them on Ebay for crazy low prices, thinking it's a really good deal but then finding out it won't fit my frame.

>>1004518
Angle also matters just as much as position.
The best way I can explain is to adjust it how you feel it should be adjusted.
So when I felt like I wanted to keep twisting my foot inwards while riding, I adjusted the cleat to do that. When I felt the pressure was too far forward on my foot I moved the cleat back.

Also be careful of saddle height. Too high or too low can both contribute to knee pain.

>>1004470
>Do people actually take the time to do this?
I only do it after I ride in the rain but that's about once a month here. I'm being lazy, I should really do it more often than that and I expect my chain will wear faster because I'm so slack.

>>1004490
>My right SPD pedal started clicking louder and louder
I've found SPD pedals to be kind of unreliable. I mean they work well but they fall apart quickly and I've twice lost the bolt out of the end and to replace it with whatever I could find.

Haven't heard of rebuilding them like >>1004514 but it's probably a good idea.

>>1004512
>my chain keeps popping of the right side of the chain ring
Adjust the outer limit screw on the front dérailleur. Check Sheldon.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front

>>1004594
I didn't want it to be one of those things that people tried 5 years ago and then everyone realized it was detrimental somehow and stopped doing it

>>1004667
>>1004594
Btw how did those 760s treat you?

>go and purchase a new bike second hand
>advertisement of a 90s 7 speed road bike
>go and check out the bike, nice condition, bar end shifters shift into all 7 gears nicely
>get bike home and a little later order microshifter 7/2 STI shifters to put on the bike
>install them on the bike
>can't get the gears indexed, for some reason won't shift onto biggest rear cog
>count gears
>bike is an 8 speed
Did early 90s Trek 1200 road bikes come with 8 gears? I'm going to have to order a new shifter set and re-do everything. Not the end of the world I suppose, I bodged the cable cutting a bit and it's too short for me to get the handlebar angle I'd like.

>>1004679
Also, what do I buy if I want an 8 and 2 speed STI shifter set? Microshift again or do I get Shimano or something in this case? They'd be easier to buy than 7 speed shifters right?

>>1004679
>order microshifter 7/2 STI shifters
>bike is an 8 speed
>won't shift onto biggest rear cog

Do you really need that cog?

>>1003063
I'm 180cm, 84cm inseam. should i get a 58 or a 60?

What's the top of the line setup for hub dynamos right now?

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>>1004693
For moderate touring

>>1004695
dog, it depends on so many things, more specifically, it depends on your reach. Even more than your leg length.

Do you have long arms/torso for your height? Go a size up.
Do you want a slightly zippier and twitchier ride for maneuvering in traffic or singletrack? Go a size down.
Are you actually touring and want the benefits of a Cadillac wheelbase? go a size up
Want a more sporty, aero position, with more weight on the front due to steep angles? Size down
Want a more relaxed, position with weight off your hands due to an upright posture? Size up.

>>1004699
additionally, things like weight distribution make a difference.
Want to run a short stem? Size up
Want a longer stem? Size down.
I hope to god you're planning on running drop bars, because running any other type of bar changes things too.

>>1004691
Not really, I can still ride my bike. I wanna be able to use all the gears eventually so I figure I'll plan my next upgrade now. Are the 2x8 Claris shifters any nicer than the Microshifter equivalent?

>>1004702
dirt drops or moustaches lol, havent decided.
Im riding a 56 with a 130mm stem, drop bars and my fork steerer has about 28cm. Also, won't having a frame too big increase my reach and therefore put more weight on my hands?

what do i buy if i want a basic bike computer to track my cadence and speed? checking some bike shops online it's all this wireless gps garmin shit that i don't need, my phone can do all that. they're super expensive as well.

>>1004708
Download strava to your phone, and get a cadence sensor that's compatible with your phone (ant+ or bluetooth).

>>1004706
Get the larger one.
130 is longer than normal.
At a glance, it'll give you a 90mm stem.
That sounds appropriate if you're running dirt drops, get an 80 if you're running moustache.
Just make sure the bars are level with the seat, you'll be fine.

I am finding the number of 7 speed cassette wheels to be very limited. Is buying an 8 or 8/9/10 speed wheel the way to go, then using a spacer? The simpleton in me says just buy 7 speed and keep things simple. But the Wilkinson wheel here is the only one I can find.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wilkinson-Speed-Cassette-Hybrid-Release/dp/B00YSM2KBS

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When I spin my back wheel, the rear cogs do a little motion to the left and right.
Is my rear hub done for or can I still repair it or bend it back or something.

>>1004725
Cassete moving separate from the rest of the wheel? Or entire wheel moving?

Possible problems:

Wheel out of true: True it.

Too much play in hub: Service or replace bearings, adjust cone tightness as needed.

Cassette damaged: Replace it.

Bent axle: Replace it.

If it's the hub itself that's damaged, then you're probably better off with a new hub.

>>1004723
Don't forget used.

>>1004667
>>1004668
That sort of makes sense I guess. That said the advantages of wide bars still apply, how wide you go should depend more on how wide your shoulders are and not just getting the widest you can find. Ideally you should try some bars of the same width before you buy but you can get an idea of how they'll fit compared to your current bars by holding onto a tape measure at that width and putting it up against your bars whilst sitting on the bike.

>how did those 760s treat you?
For me in terms of leverage it wasn't a huge difference over the 720s or even 680s I'd used before, it's a little easier to keep things in a straight line but I could cope without it, however I also liked the way it slowed down the steering. My shoulders are about 470/480mm wide and they were no more or less comfortable than the narrower bars, I run a slightly shorter stem to bring myself a little more upright and my weight further backwards.

The main disadvantage you may find (assuming they're not so wide that they're uncomfortable) is going to be clearance if you're one of those people that likes to get close to trees or even ride between them.

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>>1004727
Casette moving as if the axle was bent. I greased the bearings but I don't really know if I did that right. It looked like there were not enough balls on one side. And one side had a crown while the other side the balls were loose.

What is the name of the little rear-derailleur-cable-stop that sits on the the chain stay and directs the cable into the last little bit of cable housing that connects to the derailleur?

>>1004725
If it's a freewheel and it's only a slight movement, that's normal.

>>1004730
I don't think it has a particular name. Just "chainstay cable stop"

>>1004733
Yeah, but it's moving so strangely, I don't think it should be doing that.
It also makes wierd noises.

am i too stupid to properly adjust cantilever brakes?

i can't seem to get the cantilever brakes on my 90s mtb to perform nearly as good as v-brakes. i am aware that fork shudder is inherent to the design, but apart from that, they just don't 'bite'. i try to set them up with a toe-in of about 1-2mm, is there anything else i should look out for? or are they just inferior?

Did you read the Sheldon brown page on them?

All I can recommend is kool stop pads and those very wide cantis that tektro makes. Plus a cable bridge or whatever you call them... Not those weird stock things that come with some of them

Finally a fork crown mounted cable hanger has been said to help.

No idea which of these work but u did them all and they worked okay

The better option is v brakes and long pull levers

If you are using sti and your tires are small enough, do mini v

I've learned mostly all bike maintenence over the years. The one thing I'd like to tackle and challenge myself is building a wheel. How hard is this? What guide do you recommend?

>>1004751
Make a video

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I have an unidentified creaking noise, help me place it /n/ifties.
My suspicion: Bottom Bracket

Every time my crank arm is in the position on this picture, +- 20 degrees, it creaks loudly when it is under weight.
This occurs on both sides, but ONLY if it occured on the other side previously, so it does not occur twice on the same side if I pedal backwards half a turn and pass the point of occurence again.
This implies to me that it is some internal element that is being pushed left to right by my pedaling action.
The weight threshold is so low, it even occurs when I'm in the saddle pedaling away at 80 cadence.
It first occured the next day after a regular ride, mostly Tarmac, with one detour through heavily potholed gravel for fun.

So far I have regreased my pedal threads, regreased the square tapers of the BB, disassembled, cleaned and regreased the bolts on the 3 chainrings, serviced my headset and checked pretty much every available bolt for tightness.

Is my BB fucked? It's a modern square tapered one with a slightly protruding yellow plastic ring on the left sight that is grooved evenly on the inside, I can't find the proper name at the moment.

>>1004751
if it's a cassette it needs checking - you're likely stuck with it if it's a freewheel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6C9_dvfQNP8

might be worth checking hub bearings if it's the latter though:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qI-Q4JKmSw8

>>1004766
Are you using the same pads as the Vs? Are you using short pull levers and not long pull V levers? Either of those two could be contributing factors. Cantis suck anyway, just replace them with some Vs, or Maguras if you have the money and want the best.

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>>1004778
I fucking found it lads. Skipped over this on my first read.

>Bottom Bracket Cups/Retaining Rings Loose?

>Because of the threading of most bottom brackets, the cups are self-tightening to a point. This sometimes leads to careless installation, particularly on the right (fixed cup) side. If the right cup is slightly loose, it won't necessarily unscrew itself, but it won't really tighten itself up fully either. The symptom of this is an occasional creak or clunk usually as the left crank goes "over the top" when pedaling hard.

>This is a surprisingly common, and frequently missed, cause of unwanted noises. Generally you should check the items above first, because they're easier to deal with. You can't reliably check the tightness of the bottom bracket mounting without removing the cranks, but sometimes you can diagnose it this way:
Turn the cranks so that the left crank is alongside the seat tube, wrap both hands around the crank and seat tube and squeeze the crank hard toward the seat tube.

>Then turn the cranks so that the right crank is alongside the seat tube and repeat this. Listen for a creak/click.

I can reproduce the last part.
Now I just need to figure out how to service this motherfucker. Weird that it happened after 3k km.

>>1004778
Good ol' unidentified drivetrain noise

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>>1004694
I'm going to reask this with an image.

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My bike is three weeks old, and I am hearing a hard creak coming from my crank/pedal/crank bearing area. Any ideas as to what it is? It's a cannondale with Hollowgram cranks and Crank Brothers pedals I greased and installed myself - did I fuck up?

>>1004842
pressfit. working as intended.

>>1004824
Not anymore: >>1004820

>>1004842
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html

>>1004784
I have a cassette and it does the "wobble" like in the first video you posted. But not really as badly. Guess I fucked my hub mechanism

I have to shift my sti into the gear and hold it down to get my crankset to shift into lowest. Can I fix this without spending a lot of money?

>>1004876
...seriously? Yes, it's a simple derailleur adjustment, most likely the limit screw or some turns on your barrel adjuster. Go watch a video on it.

>>1004824
>>1004820
I had this issue. Paid my local LBS 20 bucks to just take off my cranks, take apart my bottom bracket, then re-assemble it. Good as new and only took about 15 mintues

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>>1004832
Get a dynamo hub and light if you can afford it. They are so worth it.
I have an SP dynamo that I am pretty fond of. They aren't as expensive as the Busch-Muller dynos, but they meet the same standards set for German bicycle lighting (super stringent regulations about power output at low speeds or something). A friend of mine picked up a Schmidt Dynamo cheap off of ebay, and it is also very nice. Having felt both my SP and compared to it a Schmidt Dynamo, I found them to be pretty indistinguishable. Get whichever you can get cheapest.

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I decided to tackle a steep climb today, and I mean steep. I managed to make it up once, came back down and was going to try going up in one higher gear. Unfortunately I made it half way up, couldn't peddle anymore but was lucky there was a side street I was able to bail onto. In the event there was no side street and you are unable to peddle what's the best course of action, just unclip and hop and hope for the best or try shifting and hope you don't mess something up?

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Can the piece underneath the stem be replaced with something shorter? I would like to get the handlebars slightly lower, but I know I could also et a more angled stem to do this as well.

>>1005010
You can shift under load, however it's best to minimise the load by pedalling really hard to give yourself a boost of momentum so you can ease up on the pedals a bit and shift. If the climb is so hard that you literally cannot pedal any harder then it should have been obvious that you'd need lower gearing and you should've shifted as low as you can in advance.

>>1005013
You can replace it with regular spacers of whatever length you desire, the taper is just cosmetic to line up with the head tube. You may be able to find a shorter replacement tapered spacer of a similar diameter if you care about looks.

>>1005013
Yes, you can swap that spacer out for a flat dust cover from another headset.

>>1005010
Practice track standing, that will increase your comfort with tackling very, very steep climbs that you may not be able to get up without standing on the pedals and grinding your way one step at a time.

>>1004473
>>1004475
>>1004502
I was hoping for completely slick, bald tires. Thanks for the suggestions though

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>>1004491
>>1004514
>>1004662


I tried to "service" the clicking pedal and ended up stripping the plastic tool aswell as the plastic axle cone thing. It's fucking hopelessly stuck and stripped. I will just get the M-540 pedals with all steel construction instead FUCK SHIMANO for putting plastic parts on their bullshit pedals fucking ruined my day.

Only had maybe 1200km with them ffs.

>>1005089
Hah, I had the same thing happen to me, tried unscrewing the plastic nut without the proper tool

>>1005013

S L A M T H A T S T E M
L
A
M

T
H
A
T

S
T
E
M

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>>1005091

I used this piece of shit at first but it stripped with it so I just went for the pliers and even that shit didn't help.

>>1005096
>>1005089
>>1005091
If I remember right, that outer fitting is reverse threaded, maybe why you guys had problems.

>>1005089
>>1005091
>>1005096
kek you used a vice and loosened it not tighten it, right?

>>1005098
>>1005104

I tried it both ways it just stuck as shit. Probably all the rust and dirt that got stuck from all this wet riding. It doesn't matter anyway I ordered better and lighter SPDs now that I can service in the future becase there is NO FUCKING PLASTIC on them.

>>1005112
probably a good call, my next set of pedals will be XT so I don't have to use proprietary tools to service them.

>>1005116

520s are fine for moderate use but I noticed they can't really take jumps that well. Mine started clicking after I started jumping more and overall pedalling harder. Some people will defend them to death saying shit like "they perform the same as any other higher-end models out there and the only difference is weight" nut that's just not true, not even close.

>>1005125
sure they are fine, but it feels like they're made to be cheap(er) disposable pedals.

How big a deal are clipless pedals? I'm kind of interested in trying them out. Are the ones that have the clip on one side but act as a standard pedal on the other rubbish? I'd like to still be able to commute in normal shoes on my bike, bringing a change of shoes along seems like a pain.

>>1005171
Could you leave your work shoes at work?
The benefits are often massively overstated, but they are useful for very hard sprint efforts and uphill, and also not slipping off your pedals when its wet.

Platform on one side is fine but will definitely increase the learning curve.

>>1005174
Yeah I leave my work shoes and enough clothes at work for a week so that's no issue, I also commute to Uni though and I don't have that kind of storage there. I think I'd benefit from the positioning of clips, I tend to pedal too far forward on my foot when I'm not consciously correcting myself.

It's summer in Aus soon, maybe I'll pop my riding shoes into my backpack during the day and just wear thongs around uni so I don't need 2 sets of shoes.

>>1005175
Also just a tip if you get more casual/mtb/soft sole shoes they're perfectly fine for walking if you don't mind the scritching noise.

Can I ask which city?

>>1005193
Oh really? I assumed they'd all be a pain to walk in for more than a little while. Figured the more race-y shoes would take up less space in a bag. I should go try some on to get an idea for walking in them.

I'm in [spoiler]Canberra[/spoiler] for uni.

Guys I'm starting to get worried I haven't seen bianchi kun or bacon rider in a long time. Are they okay?

Can a 10 Speed Dura ace Bar end friction shifter effectively shift a triple crank at the front?
If so, is it reasonable to buy a different shaped brake lever and use the STI on the other side for rear shifting?
Please respond.

>>1005202
bianchi kun moved to thailand to pursuit his transgender career. BC is at the paralympics.

>>1005098
>>1005104
Nah, I was aware of the reverse thread, I just used pliers and they slipped. Silly me.

I live in the Pacific Northwest and still new to biking, what do i need to get/prepare for when the fall season hits?

Should I ditch my department store bike chain lube and get some brand name stuff, or is it just all the same shit?

>>1005311

for rain I'd suggest:
> SKS full fenders
> pinned flat pedals if you don't ride with foot retention. They'll keep your feet on the pedals even if everything is wet
> A good rain jacket
> A wool buff for cold, windy days
> a couple pairs of gloves for different temps. fingerless is nice when it's not too cold

these are all commuter-tier. A roadie will hae different advice

>>1005203

I'd like to know the same re: using the wrong side. I'm going to assume yes. All we need to do is set each up with some cable and measure how much they pull

Brifter for the cassette and bar-end for the triple is good stuff. The shmart move if your left STI breaks. (downtube shifter is also shmart)

>>1005125
>>1005112

Agree, after about 2000 miles, they've got to be serviced pretty often to keep them tight. I'm guessing the bearings and races aren't as hard as the higher end models.

>>1005311
>full fenders
>wider tires than you run in summer
>cycling-specific rain jacket and pants...I like showers pass
>a breathable hat/hood that keeps the rain off your head...I use a giro merino cap
>gloves and liners
>booties for your shoes
>really fucking bright lights

building up a glove collection can be annoying, because what works for one day's shitty PNW weather won't work for the next day's shitty weather. the big problem you're facing is heat management. you don't want to get soaked and start getting hypothermia, but you don't want to overheat.

the shower's pass refuge jacket is expensive as fuck but worth the money.

>>1005332
I tried doing the roadie thing with a nice long-sleeve jersey and 3/4 length merino bib shorts and it wasn't worth it because it only works for the misty shitty days that make the roads so slick that trying to go sanic just ends in torn flesh and tears. Better to go full commuter and leave the lycra for summer.

>>1005203
They work for doubles or triples.

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So I got this CAADX two or three weeks ago and it's making this noise, I'm pretty sure it's coming from the bottom bracket.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9pHmfyj_AQ&feature=youtu.be

I took it to the shop I got it from and they're going to take a look at it as it's likely to be covered by the warranty (or if they deny it I can always claim it to my credit card I guess) but what the fuck is that noise?

They tried new pedals, tightening the crank screws, and some other more obvious shit like the quick releases (???) but nothing so far, so they'll take it tomorrow for a more thorough checkup.

I have only used it for commuting 20km a day not even 5 days a week, no rain, no nothing.

What the fuck Cannondale? Anyone has any idea why that could be happening?

>>1005814
You sir, are a prime candidate for leg shaving.

As for the sound, my first guess would be that the crank fixing bolt was over torqued. If it's not that, then something has gone wrong with the bearings (seal out of place?) or it could be that the BB wasn't faced properly at the factory so now the cups are out of alignment.

>>1005814
see
>>1004843

>>1005834
So you think it's okay? It sounds really fucked up man. It only sounds when I put my weight to the pedals (can't really see in the video but my hairy ass is not touching the saddle).

>>1005833
>You sir, are a prime candidate for leg shaving.
I'm happy with my hair, some bitches get turned on big time by it for some reason.

>>1005836
Not him, but the Pressfit comment is clearly sarcastic. Pressfit BBs have loads of issues because they have essentially zero tolerance for imperfections that can easily occur in the manufacturing process.

>>1005840
yeah this. Pressfit is known for creaking, although when I posted I hadn't watched your video and your noise is worse than normal. I'd still 100% put it down to a pressfit issue though, either it was badly installed or the BB shell wasn't faced properly.

>>1005836
pretty much every external BB has this issue, it's a flawed design.

>>1005849
>>1005841
>>1005840
Oh it's sarcasm okay lol, well we'll see what the guys in the shop say.

>>1005858
I did not see the video until now but you have most likely destroyed the bearings, it sounds and looks as if it's indexed.
Was it always like this? and dont mention to the shop that you tightened the crank screw.

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Someone please help me id this bike. I can't find the model.

>>1005860
It started doing that yesterday and the guys in the shop were the ones who did all that (tighten screws, new pedals, etc.) I know how to do basic mech but since this bike is brand new I'd rather not touch anything, I'll let them do it.

It's the same with other things, I make a living fixing electronics but if I buy a brand new electronic thing and it fails shortly after, I'll take it to the warranty instead of trying to mess around with it.

>Use Parktool CC-2
>dead on 0.75%
>Replace chain
>Chain now slips.

I thought this wasn't supposed to happen if you replaced the chain on time. What's the deal?

>>1005868
Then there shouldn't be any issues if it's still under warranty.

>>1005870
Forgot to mention. It's 9-speed.

>>1005873
Yeah the bike's got warranty left in it, I got it three weeks ago. If they refuse to sort this shit out I'll have to complain or some shit because it's not like I raced the bike or anything, literally commuting. Still it's a fucking cyclocross bike, it's supposed to take rough shit anyway.

I was just curious as to whether this is something I might have caused or it's likely to be a manuf. issue, and according to pretty much everyone I asked including /n/ it seems to be manufacturing.

>>1005870
Replacing the chain on time won't do shit if you don't replace the cassette or chainrings when needed. A worn chain is going to sit differently on the rings (lower) so that may be why it wasn't skipping before.

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>shitseason coming up
>clean and lube chain with wet lube
>fucking got some on my brake rotor
>didnt notice until it was too late

JUST

>>1005883
how does one get lube on fucking discs? it's on the other side ffs and same if not higher than your chain.

>>1005876
Fair enough. I do give this bike a hard life.

>>1005884
only thing i know for sure is that its on there and the pads are contaminarino, bro.
i'm gonna scrub the pads and rotor down with 90% iso alcohol right now and if that doesn't work i'm gonna head on down to the shop and buy new pads.

>>1005886
You won't get the oil off your pads with just alcohol, use a torch to get the pad surface hot (burning the oil off), then scour the pad with sandpaper, then you can finish with alcohol and a rag.

>>1005886
Solution works like for like. Alcohol is water soluable and will not dissolve grease. You want a volatile oil that dissolves the contamination, washes it out and then evaporates, itself. It's called disc brake cleaner and is available everywhere.

How fast have you ever gone on a bike? I'm just discovering this thing called strava, and across this one section (downhill) a guy went 72.0 km/h. It's gotta be fake, right? I was going 50.

>>1005915
Nah, I've done 70+ km/h on descents a couple of times before. As long as you trust your bike and your skills, it's not too bad. Remember that pro roadies reach like 100km/h on descents. Hell, track riders reach 60km/h riding on flat

>>1005890
>>1005893
>concise solutions for my newbie problem
thanks, dudes. gonna clean 'em up and go ride tomorrow.

>>1005915
I live near mountains and it's pretty easy for me to hit 70 km/h on a big descents. The fastest I've ever gone on a bicycle was 91 km/h but going that fast required a perfect combination of a straight, smooth road and a favorable wind.

Im looking for a 140mm travel FS mountain bike with 27.5 wheels and preferably a threaded BB (aluminium preferred) does anyone have a recommendation of such a machine? I have been able to find a lot of PF bikes, but not too many threaded.

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>>1005941
Transition Scout
>140/125mm
>650b
>alu
>73mm threaded bb
http://transitionbikes.com/Bikes_Scout.cfm?Token={ts_2016-09-13_19:56:31}-d4382f0c5cd8af6c-7C8B9209-A8D3-F8A2-3D167E829B34D19C

will i ever grow out of cycling as a hobby? ive been cycling on a road bike since i was 16 and im 19 now but am getting into it more seriously now, got me a good bike and full kit. think i will over do it and tire myself?

>>1005952

You sound like an insecure teen. Nothing is stopping you to just leave cycling if you are getting "tired" of it.

>>1005952
doesn't matter. just do what you do, friendo.

I'm trying to get my front derailleur shifting smoothly. My shimano STIs appear to have 3 index spots on the front derailleur shifter despite being for a 2 ring bike. Is the last indexed spot for running small ring front to small ring rear? I'm trying to get them indexed and I get the feeling I'm using this spot incorrectly for generic low ring and having 1 extra shifting 'past' my big ring...

>>1006016
You got it, that middle click is your 'trim' position so you can stop the FD rubbing in gear combos that give mild cross-chaining.

>>1006017
So the front derailleur should be on the small ring in the middle position? Or is the extra click for stopping rubbing going big ring to big ring? (So middle and upper positions are both for the big ring)

>>1005915
I've done road descends at 66-70km/h, with a 50/11 gear and not even above 90rpm. I'm also a beginner roadie and out of fit so that's pretty acceptable. A pro roadie with a higher gear and fit? No biggy achieving much faster ones, also look at cycling speed records, that's nothing. The issue about speed would be more if your bike can take it, having a failure or losing control at that speed is dangerous as hell, I was riding yesterday with some guy who broke 3 ribs and left scapula because descending on a mountain road with upstream traffic he fucked up one turn braking and went to the ground, pretty badly.

>>1005952
you may grow sore and tired of racing, but touring, bikepacking and slowbiking are always an option down the track.

>>1006052
Top speed down hill has nothing to do with gearing really, once you hit the super high speeds pedalling is useless unless you're on a bike designed for streamliner records.

What's important is gradient, wind and position on the bike.

>>1005915
A shit 54 kph

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>>1006052
50/11@90rpm will get you 51.5km/h. To hit 70km/h at that gearing you need to be at around 122rpm. Assuming you're on a 700c wheel that is, to get your claimed speed/cadence you'd need something like a 40 inch wheel.

anyway
>pedalling long decents

>>1005915
85 km/h, or 53 miles the rest of you.
Figuratively need a new chamois after doing that hill.

>>1005010
>just unclip and hop and hope for the best or try shifting and hope you don't mess something up?
Shifting under load is not advisable (or easy). Better to unclip, brake and vault off to the side.

That's what I do anyway.

>>1005089
>I will just get the M-540 pedals with all steel construction instead FUCK SHIMANO for putting plastic parts on their bullshit pedals
Haha, I bought the same pedals after losing the outer bolt because something broke inside the clickrs.

>>1005171
>How big a deal are clipless pedals? I'm kind of interested in trying them out
They've very cool. Start off on ClickRs, they're the easiest way to get into clipless and recessed SPD cleats mean you can wear the shoes all day. Lots of good SPD shoes too including a lot of street and even some formal wear.

>>1005174
>Platform on one side is fine
I've tried them, I think they suck. Better to just have a platform shell around the SPD, like ClickR or some MTB SPDs have.

>>1005175
>It's summer in Aus soon
If you live anywhere near Carlton, go to Velocycles on the morning of ride-to-work day (on the way to work obviously, they open early because they're on the bike path and serve commuters with bike repairs etc) and they'll have a sale on the bike-path out front. They usually sell a shoes+clickr set for about $100 or so. Good value and they'll fit it on the spot.

That's where I got my first set and haven't looked back.

>>1006052
I've broken 90km/h on a long downhill that was partially shielded from wind but I probably had a tailwind anyway, I'm heavy and I was in a Sagan tuck. I pedalled at the start but pretty soon spun out in top gear.

It was a very open and clean road with a nice smooth surface, no real gravel or crap on the road. Still scary as hell to do. I live near mountains now but the roads aren't smooth enough, clean enough or long enough for me to try those sorts of speeds.

>>1006020
Alright I got this sorted out and the bike is shifting fine.

I can't seem to get the front derailleur limiting screws right though. In order to get enough tension on the cable for the front derailleur to shift smoothly there isn't enough slack for me to move the limiting screw inwards enough to stop a slight scraping of derailleur-on-chain when the bike is on small front and big rear cogs. Not a big deal I guess, it'll just make a little sound when I'm climbing.

>>1006063
>something broke inside the clickrs
>Start off on ClickRs

Samefagging.
I still say to start on ClickRs, even though they don't last more than a few seasons. By the time they wear out, you'll be ready for more aggressive pedals anyway, if you're still just commuting then you can graduate to SPDs of some sort, there are all-metal SPDs with platform shells that are ideal for commuting. And the ClickRs aren't so expensive that you'll feel ripped off when you need to replace them after a year or two.

>>1006063
Those Click'r shoes/pedals seem pretty convenient. I don't live in Melbourne but I'm sure some of the bike shops around here would stock them. I'll go have a look this weekend I think.

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Any beginner tips for a guy planing to cycle for the first time through the winter months?

>>1006090

Have good gear
Dry drivetrain when finished
Keep rims clean
Don't be a puss

>>1006069
>Those Click'r shoes/pedals seem pretty convenient
Yeah, they're a very soft introduction to clipless. Look around, the best part is that both shoes and pedals in the clickr are compatible with all SPD stuff. The cleat and the pedal are both kind of 'softer' but you can use them with any SPD stuff.

And there are lots of really good SPD shoes for casual wear once you're off the bike. I used to wear SPD shoes at work all day sometimes.

>>1006090
>winter tips
Have changes of clothes ready.
Have good waterproof gear.
Spare gloves.
Shoe covers?

What's the cheapest INDEXED shifting system I can get, that will work with a 2x8 road drivetrain and is not integrated with brake levers?

>>1006129
Probably bar end shifters.

>>1006132
Sure but which ones? Though one would think indexed DT shifters would be cheaper than barend what with the touring retrogrouch fad and whatnot

>>1006129
Sunrace trigger shifters or Microshift twist shifters

>>1006129
get an old pair of 105 8 speed downtube shifters used

I don't think there are currently any 8 speed indexed road shifters on the market.

>>1006164
8 and 10 speed Shimano shifters have the same pull ratio though right?

>>1006054
My point was that gravity and rider mass thus gradient is more important than rider and/or bike for speed downhill. So pretty much what you said, still gearing can matter, to accelerate at max speed faster.

>>1006060
You aren't taking into account what a gradient does, sadly. Go back check your math once you take into account object mass and gravity.

>>1006063
Must feel really awesome but I agree, pretty damn scary also! Most mountain roads here are well kept but there are lots of curves, so I usually top at 60 on average, since I have to slowdown to turn some tight ones. Still some descends have a pretty long sections or waving curves that when there's very little traffic you can just go straight, but I don't think I could achieve 90 without spinning out, maybe 80-85 with my current gearing.

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>tfw can only break into the top strava bar on descents and flats , and always near the bottom on climbs

>>1006188
How much do you weigh?

>>1006191
Not that guy but the same happens to me, uphill I'm pretty shit but riding flats and downhill I'm fast as fuck, I usually pass most people. Weighted myself today, 97kg of mostly fat, not Arnold. Physics and shit.

I'm >>1005814
So the guys in the shop told me they disassembled the BB and cleaned it well, regreased it well and now it's smooth as fuck, the bike works like a dream pretty much now. Hope it stays like that for the next 4.000 km.
>tfw /n/ was right from the beginning

>>1005867
looks like a late model talon or xtc?

>>1006191
11 stoneish , bot sure

>>1006160
Whatever the cheapest is you can find that's compatible with your derailers, I'm assuming Shimano and SRAM 8 speed have different cable pull.

I was going to say downtube shifters but that would depend on if you have bosses for them (if not then you need to include the cost of clamp on bosses) and I don't know why anyone would pick DT over bar end.

>>1006184
>You aren't taking into account what a gradient does
Going down a hill doesn't magically increase your gearing. That other guy is correct, 50:11 at 90rpm will not hit 66-70km/h. If the other guy reached that speed by tucking and coasting down the hill then fine, but if that's the case mentioning his gearing and cadence implies he was pedalling.

I'm a newbie and I would like to offer other cyclist some newbie advice in case it might be of help someone

I have ridden over 2000km with my current bike and have done much adjusting of my saddle height thinking it was correct. I used the tricks people tell you to get the proper height. I adjusted my saddle height upwards until I was pleased with it and then stuck with it. I rarely had knee pain, only when I rode in really hard gears did it flare up, but I have bad knees so I figured that's just my broken body.

Anyway, then I rode another bike really hard for about a week and didn't face the same knee pains. So I started adjusting my saddle height up even more and went out for rides in small seat height increments and rode really hard, until I found a position where knee pain almost vanished.

Then I ended up putting it too high and getting pains too. But that's when I knew I had hit my limit

So I guess what I am trying to say is that if you feel your seat is adjusted at the right height for you, try adjusting it a little higher and see if it makes the experience even better or worse. Once you reach worse, stop and go back down. But don't be like me and stop without going too far up

Now I rode hard gears low cadence and my knees feel fine. I'm sure this process can be fixed with a proper bike fit, but just putting my experience in the first few months out there in case it might be useful to someone else

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What are some reputable titanium bikes/brands?

>>1006258
Litespeed, Van Nicholas, Burls.

>>1006184
Mass and gravity will make you go faster downhill as you exchange your gravitational potential energy into kinetic but has no effect on gearing. The ratio of turns from one cog to another will always be the same whether you're going uphill, downhill, upside-down or in deep space.

>>1006237
The frame has no bosses but the clamp is dirt cheap. And I do like barend shifters, but my brake levers are already not aero and have two cable buckles over my bars, so I wouldn't like to add a second set
Plus I don't think I've ever seen barend shifters where I live other than TT Dura-ace or Ultegra ones.

>>1006258
Habcycles

>>1006237
>>1006261
I looked back at my initial comment and I see it is misleading but you guys keep going on in circles about something I'm not referring to. The gearing I was talking about is because, that speed was referred to on a specific section of road by first poster, my comment was trying to reflect that by going downhill, say -10% gradient and spinning a 50/11 at less than 90 rpm was enough to add up to 66-70km/h on that section of road, spinning the gears is to achieve that speed earlier on the section! That's why I said a more powerful rider with higher gears would achieve it faster since could deliver better power.. for the same section of road, leading to potentially even faster speed as it traveled down before having to slow down to turn or something.
If you guys had a really long downhill straight section you could just coast to whatever max speed you could achieve due to conditions, spinning the gear ratio is to accelerate faster...

>>1006258
triton

Recently got a second hand Giant TCR which I think I posted about in this thread. Its pretty good condition wise, needs new bottom bracket and some other adjustments, however one thing is the seat post hex bolts are rounded because the owner didnt grease his bolts and obviously overtightened them.

Have any of you ever had experience drilling out the bolts? All my LBSs quote ludicrous prices at me...wonder if its just better to carefully do it myself. Annoying because the seat height is managable but just not perfect.

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I put a straight rigid steel fork on my mtb. Does it fuck the front wheel or hub too much if I ride on bumpy forest paths? I can certainly handle it, not sure about the bike.

you will need some sort of power drill and a
extractor plus a new bolt, do you have any bike co-ops in your city? is it stripped or just stuck? if the hex key marks are still on it you should be able to force it off, just get a good hex key and a cheaty extension bar, some sort of rod and just try to get off. Maybe get a blowtorch too and heat up the area, that will help.

>>1006306
woops meant for >>1006299

>>1006303
Forks were once all rigid you know.

>>1006299
If it's a separate clamp and you don't mind spending a tiny bit of money the easiest option would be to cut though the bolt where the split in the clamp is. If the head of the bolt protrudes you can try grabbing it with some vice grips.

>>1006303
Is the fork built for mountainbiking? If so, go for it. If it's a randomhi-ten BSO fork with papier mâché fork crown or a road/track fork made from a thin foil and desperate hope I'd rather not risk it.

best online distributor for parts?

>>1006315
In Cambodia or Laos?

>>1006316
us

>>1006320
It was either or. You don't get to pick freely.

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how would a cross bike handle for road riding? good enough to hook the corners?

lookin for a strong fast disc alum bike but road bikes seem shit for that. except caad12 but its 5grand for a decent color. cx bikes are a lot of bike for the money and look better

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Anyone have experience replacing non-aero brake hoods? Specifically Weinnman levers with AME brand hoods that have the funky, non-dia compe shape? Pic related

>>1006345
It's going to handle fairly similar. The geometry may vary slightly to most road bikes but there will no doubt be road bikes out there with almost identical geometry. The main things that set CX bikes apart from road bikes is the larger knobby tyres (and clearance for said tyres) and the gearing. That bike for example looks similar to a lot of mountain bikes with a wide range cassette and (slightly larger) single chainring.

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I am a newfag to bicycling. Bought a $120 Huffy at walmart. Been commuting with it to work for 5 months now. Thinking of upgrading to the higher end stuff instead of doing middling upgrade. I am setting my eyes on Juiced Rider Cross Current: MSRP $1,499.

Yay or nay?

What's the current consensus on Electric bikes anyway?

>>1006345
Because of slacker angles, the handling will be a little slower, and they're really designed for the slightly larger effective wheel diameter created by 32-40c tires. Also, stock gearing might be wrong for road riding - high end stuff with 1x will leave you spinning out anytime you do a fast group ride, and the standard "cx double" 46/36 is too small for descending and fast rides. These are nitpicky things coming from someone who races road, and all of this aside, I do frequently use my CX bike as a backup road bike, and it does a superb job. I have switched the gearing to standard compact 50/34 (better for gravel grinding anyway), and swap on a spare set of wheels with 28c tires and it becomes a very capable road bike.

>>1006352
Seems like it should be a pretty solid bike and a decent price. If you can I would hold out until you can get the super extended range battery, the standard has a pitiful capacity, the extended has a little less than most 36v batteries, but the super extended is massive (if it turns out to be too expensive the extended would suffice).

Also check out your local laws for power limits and assistance speed limits.

>>1006352
If you spend ~$1000 on a nice rigid hybrid bike or road bike you'll gain heaps of efficiency over your huffy and be going way faster anyway. No reason to go for the electric assist unless your commute involves some huge hills that leave you too sweaty when you get to work or something. But it really depend what you want - flat bar hybrid or a proper road bike? Do you want racks?

Surly and Salsa make a lot of commute/travel oriented bikes that you might be interested.

>>1006352
Get a road bike man... Is there any reason you really need a mtn bike for the commute? Or look at cyclocross bikes... There's something infinitely better about commuting on an efficient road bike

>>1006353
thanks for the info mate. im not a hardcorre descender so no worries on the 46 for me. just wanna keep up with the lads

>>1006345
They handle fine.... I had a Jake the snake cyclocross for a while I rode around boulder Colorado even in winter... It was boss till it got stolen.. I got a felt fc5 carbon to replace it and I liked it better obviously but that cyclocross still has a special place in my heart..

It'll handle better in dirt that's for sure

>>1006357
It's not only hills, the motor will be great for accelerating and would be really handy for stop-start riding (town/city centre for example). It also means you don't hold up drivers as much and piss them off, potentially making it safer.

>>1006358
Just because it has a suspension fork doesn't make it a mountain bike.

>>1006345
Generally, like a endurance road bike, although there's serious outliers. Some have extra high bottom brackets for clearance, which isn't what you want for carving a road downhill.

Watch for race spec CX's with a something like a 46/36 crankset, which is great if you want lots of 1t shifts for race conditions, but not so great on the top end for road use.

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>>1006314
>road/track fork made from a thin foil and desperate hope

>>1006258
>What are some reputable titanium bikes/brands?
Well Motobecane have a reputation...
Mostly for being badly assembled by bikesdirect but the Ti frame is fine. You just need to take it to a shop and get them to check everything for being badly installed.

>>1006348
It's easiest to install them while the bracket is off the bike. If you're not replacing cables though then it's just a matter of rolling them up and working them up to the name plate, then unrolling them.

>>1006309
And bikes were once all sturdy. Now they break on evey little curb.

>3x7 Tourney group
>2x8 Claris group
Am I right to think the Tourney group will make the bike easier to ride while the Claris has higher quality and will deliver better performance?

I'll be using this for commute and recreative usage.

>>1006614
Depends what the actual gear range is (inc chainrings and cassettes) but there's a good change the triple will give you an easier bailout gear.

I want to get into road racing, whats a good starting bike for that, or would it be better to put my own together?

>try to fit 26 1 3/8 in 26 x 1.40 tire
>Blatantly oversized
>have one spare 28 tire
>try it there
>fits beautifully

What the fuck?

>>1006639
Fractional and decimal doesnt mix. Even if conversion is the same. Theres a reason why its labelled different

>>1006642

But the base is 26, are you saying that 26 is another 26 and not what it usually goes for?

>>1006643
From our Lord Sheldons website

Does Point Seven Five Equal Three Quarters?

Note that the inch-based designations sometimes express the width in a decimal (26 x 1.75) and sometimes as a common fraction (26 x 1 3/4). This is the most common cause of mismatches. Although these size designations are mathematically equal, they refer to different size tires, which are NOT interchangeable.

>>1006644

Good to know I have a spare 28 and that I need a new 26 spare then, thanks.

How many times do you patch a tube before you trash it? Or do you throw on more orange stickers until you have something you can't fix?

best time of Autumn to buy a used bike (in Europe) ? Soon, isn't it...

>>1006927
I'm not a europe, but I would assume its right when students are moving into dorms/houses and realizing they don't use that old hunkajunk. The only better time would be right when schools get out and people are moving back home/graduating.

>>1006926
>How many times do you patch a tube before you trash it?
I generally replace it any time the patch itself failed, or just three or four patches and I might feel like it's past its time.

>>1006926
I patch them until I get a puncture right next to a patch, or on the valve base, or until it's too hard to bring them up to the proper pressure

>>1006614
I don't see how a plastic groupset would "make the bike easier to ride"

>>1006964
Well it might be lighter but anon is probably talking about the granny ring.

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The shifter for my front derailler is fucked. It doesn't stay where I put, making the front derailler inoperable. I'm new to biking, but I've ridden 4 M centuries on this bike and I'd like to do the work myself. Can I buy any downtube shifters, or are some different? Can anyone recommend any? Its a 94 Raleigh, nothing special.

>>1006633
kona esatto

>>1006519
>Now they break on evey little curb.
if that were true then roadbike party wouldn't even exist. he would have snapped that dogma in half immediately.

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>>1007150
First off, if your shifter won't hold tension (and can't be tightened with the knob), sometimes you can bring them back to life by cleaning them out and reassembling.

But if that doesn't work, to replace the shifters you need to take the shifter and look at the braze-on on your frame - if it has a square shape, it's the normal kind and pretty much any downtube shift lever you buy will fit on it. But if it looks like pic related with a point than you'll need to find the much less common 'B-type' Shimano shifter (Shimano 600 levers are the best known example)

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>>1007162
And here's what the much more common 'square' (Campagnolo-style) braze on looks like.

>>1007162
Thank you for the fantastic write up. I honestly didn't know that knob adjusted tension. That's actually probably all it is. I'm sure it could use a cleaning tho. I haven't ridden in 6 months because of this. And to think, it was just the twist of a knob.

>>1007154
>if that were true then roadbike party wouldn't even exist. he would have snapped that dogma in half immediately.
That's a good point. In the BTS, they talk about how they expected to destroy a few sets of rims, I think they had two or three spares but they never needed them.

They went through a few tubes I believe (pinch flats?) but no non-consumables were damaged.

>>1006926

this>>1006962

>>1007371

What's the real meaning behind RPM in those gook bike computers? It says rotation per minute but of WHAT? I'm trying to be a spinner but this thing says up to 200 when you spin in between 25 and 30 km/h, so I guess the shit just says how many times the wheel is spinning, not the crank, isn't that right?

>>1007708
If it doesn't have a cadence sensor then all it can measure it wheel rotation speed (which doesn't really serve any value). In order for it to measure cadence RPM without a cadence sensor it would need to know you gear ratio and wheel diameter, which of course would only work on a single speed bike.

>>1007708
why are you replying to me?

also, that's a stupid question. the sensor is on the wheel. it measures the RPM of the wheel. how could it be otherwise?

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Is grease on the lockring recommended? Are there any house hold items I can use instead?

Also "I fucked up and bought the wrong cassette" guy here. Turns out the hub on my old wheel was completely fucking wrecked anyway, bearings almost hanging out so, yeah no regrets about buying a new wheel now.

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hey, in from a couple boards over, hope this is the right place for basic questions that don't deserve their own thread.

I recently bought a disposable bike to ride from one class to another on college campus. I got it at a yard sale, pretty trashed from general neglect but functions on a basic level.

I'm trying to get the front derailleur working properly. It is properly aligned with the chainrings, and will shift up through the 3 ranges properly, but won't shift back down once it's on the highest range. When I try to shift down, the shifter cable goes slack. The cage(proper term?) pushes leftward on the chain, clicking, but doesn't seem to push hard enough to make the chain jump off and down to the next smaller chainring. It's as if the spring inside no longer has enough tension to pull it down.

I've checked the adjustment on the cable and the stop screws, if I apply some leftward pressure on the cage while turning the crank, I can get it to shift down, and it will ride fine in that gear, no clicking, no cable slack, the handlebar gear selector pointing at the appropriate gear, but if I shift back up into the high gear it will get stuck there again.


It's a generic 21 speed mountain bike, a Wal*Mart brand from a few years ago, completely stock.

So what's up? It is just a shitty derailleur and it's worn out? Can I adjust the spring tension somehow? Does it need lubrication (and what kind)?

I can live with the bike as a 7-speed for what I'm doing... but it would be nice to have everything working.

Image extremely related.

>>1008202
If anything needs lubrication, it will be the cable that runs from the shifter to the derailleur.

You can't (well, maybe you can) really replace the spring. 7-speed stuff is very interchangeable and cheap, so a new front derailleur would be a definite look-see.

>>1008351
new thread lads