I wanna get into the night vision game, but I'm lost. Now

>>34876892
I mean, kind of, it's more like a blueish green, or vice versa, apparently it shows contrast better and is less straining on the eyes than the standard green phosphor tubes. Ummm, get gen 3, preferably autogated because it will not damage the tubes if you happen to see any bright light sources, and even then it sometimes isn't necessary, BUT just to be on the safe side, and it costs like nothing more. For $3,000 you can easily get into PVS-14's, for no more than $8,000 you should get into a good set of Gen 3 dual tube goggles such as the BNVD, AB nightvision Mod 3, used PVS-15, or something like an AVS-9, or a ruggedized variant of it.

Beyond that, you'll of course want to go for a helmet mount, a dovetail socketed mount would be best, and that's really all there is to it besides discussing green vs white phosphor, or whether you need or want a monocular or dual tube, or manual gain.

Buy the best tube you can afford. Even if that means saving up longer.

Ideally your tube, as graded on the manufacturer spec sheet should have 72 line pairs resolution and a signal to noise ratio of 19:1.

L3 and ITT tubes are where it's at.

If you're gonna go with a pvs-14 you can get the standard green screen or the white phosphor tubes. If you're going binocular, get white phosphor. The increased contrast makes a huge difference in perception.

There are positives and negative's to a single tube set up and I dual tube set up.

Single tube allows for better transition through mixed light environments, or if you have to suddenly transition to white light.

Dual tube Systems allow for easier processing by your brain, and the make you look bad ass which we all know is the most important part.

No matter what I recommend Wilcox mount systems, and the device needs to be mounted directly to your helmet.

Watch some of John Lovell's Warrior Poet YouTube videos... he's got some really good videos on NV and lasers.