What is the best steel for knives? Also, what's the point

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all steel is different. If there was a "best steel" every knife would use it.

You want a knife with an edge that will take forever to dull and keep an edge forever? guess what you are going to get a knife that you need expenisve equipment and time to sharpen when it eventually does.

Also stainless steel doesnt exist. Stains LESS steel does exist though. all steel rusts. But you add a bit of chrome into the metal and it rusts alot slower.

Unless you are getting a super special stainless steel that you know explicitly the characteristics of , usually carbon steel is usually better.

Buy some books on knifemaking. You will learn alot about alot of different subjects.

>>34714833
>What is the best steel for knives?
How long is a string?

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440 stainless is generally a safe choice and works very well as it is proven. If you are forging it the only part you are going to have to worry about is how well you heat treat it and quench it. If you fuck that up you fucked up everything.

>>34714912
Did you mean "stainless steel is usually better"? My understanding is that the alloying elements in stainless make it harder and more difficult to machine,

>>34714833
Knives of Alaska (actually made in Texas) uses D2 tool steel. It seems to work as well as any other. 440 Stainless isn't bad for knives that don't need to be that hard but get exposed to a lot of water, like cooking and butcher knives.

>>34714912
>Stainless steels rust slower
Stainless steels do not rust slower, they are actually more resistant to corrosion. A more corrosive environment is required for rust to happen.

>>34714833
Depends. Are you buying a knife or hand forging? As far as I know there's no reason to buy traditional carbon knives over stainless knives, but if you're looking to hand forge, stainless is air hardening doesn't respond well to the hardening and tempering process without a difficult to to attain degree of precision. If you're hand forging, 1095 and 1084 are often recommended for short blades for toughness and ease of working. For longer blades, namely machetes and swords, 5160 is preferred. It can be used for smaller knives too, but is better suited to blades that need to flex considerably. I haven't had much issue with the finish on my hand forged work, but they haven't seen very heavy use yet either. Considering electroplating or at least establishing a pretty hardcore patina.

>>34714833
If you want a short knife s35vn is probably a decent place to start. I personally don't think a small knife is usually subjected to the forces where carbon steel matters.

If you want something large get a carbon steel instead, D2 is somewhat resistant to corrosion but isn't quite like the other carbon steels.

>>34715018
Not exactly. Stainless is a pain to work with because it's easily contaminated. You can't use anything on stainless thats been used on carbon steel.

>>34715077
>stainless is air hardening doesn't respond well to the hardening and tempering process without a difficult to to attain degree of precision.

Stainless steels come in all forms. Some are pretty much flat out unhardenable. Some air harden, some will need a quench. And some will tend towards states that basic carbon steels simply do not exhibit at room temperature, like austenitic and duplex (austenite+ferrite) stainless steels.

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Here I though Tarangus J29 had some hefty ejector pin marks. And I'm pretty sure that one's a short run kit.

Off the top of my head, I'd have to say W1 would be one of the best commonly available alloys, without going into supposed "super steels" and such.

>>34714833
Because stainless steels that have a really high resistance to wear are the most difficult for the end user to sharpen and tend not to take the keenest edge when they do get sharp.

Go big or go home, make a knife using L6 bainite or L7 steel.

>>34715627

Excuse me make that S7 steel.

I have a 5x5 square of 1/4" annealed O1. After tempering would this be suitable for making a small gong? I know this steel is much more expensive than AR500 and is toolmaker grade but is it thick enough to stop pistol rounds?

>>34715456
>that mat
AVE please stay

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>>34714833
Because Stainless Steel contains chromium carbides, which sucks majorly since they make the blade more resistant to abrasion, hence are harder to sharpen, and on the microscopic level the carbides can snap and leave a rough edge.
Harder to sharpen + Less sharp + More expensive = Carbon Steel is here to stay.

>>34714833
O2 toolsteel

>>34714833
d2 is pretty dope for above water operations

M390, no question.

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>>34714912
>Also stainless steel doesnt exist

>laughing-H1-steel.jpg

use CES material selection software mah nigga

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>>34715133
> You can't use anything on stainless thats been used on carbon steel.

You're not talking about tooling, correct?

>>34715727
Hardening and tempering are tow different steps. Tempering alone will at most weaken the metal. Hardening alone makes it extremely brittle. Not getting things just right can make either, or have it shatter as you quench it.

>>34716141
If you think that, then you simply haven't tested enough chemicals on it yet. Try boiling it for an hour in red fuming nitric acid for example.

>>34716253
Yes, yes, I know ffs I've heat treated my own tools out of O1 before.

Anyways, can O1 be successfully used as a steel target, or is it too brittle for purpose?

>>34716253
There's a difference between rust and corrosion.

You can get H1 to corrode (though any chemical strong enough to do it would seriously fuck you up anyway), but you can't get it to have the traditional red brown rust.

People have claimed to have gotten it to rust, but nobody's proven it. Pretty much all of them had metal dust or other contaminants that rusted on the blade, making it look like the knife rusted, but not the blade itself.

>>34715133
Dunno how familiar you are in the machine shop but drilling stainless steel is a complete pain in the asshole in comparison to other steel.

>>34714833
CPMV3, Elmax, (insert proprietary alloy here).
I started making knives with 440c

>>34714996
How Long is a Chinaman.

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>>34715013
>440
my nigger

I really like 5160 for larger knives and I'm going to be working on a balisong soon that is probably going to be 1095. I might look into some kind of stainless though.

>standard rifle barrel is 30 RC

How long would a barrel turned out of say, 60 RC M2 HSS drill rod last? Assuming you don't drop it and shatter it ofc.

Why are gunmakers short changing us with pot metal

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>>34714833
Alloy-276

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>>34719263

>>34715627
>not inconel
shiggy.

Don't know what's best, but I like s30v and s35vn.

>>34715048
D2 is tough as hell and fairly easy to sharpen, it will rust quick if you don't keep it oiled though.

>>34719105
The stresses induced by firing act similarly to dropping the rifle on to concrete. 60 is too high for a through hardened barrel. not riding the bore gives a rc 60-70 surface over tough barrel steel which is ideal.

>>34719546
>not riding
nitriding

Depends.
Maxamet can cut, cut, cut, and cut. I just wouldn't be rough with it. But my 1095 bowie that thing is a tank and can get scary sharp

>>34718854
'bout 2 inches.

>>34719348
>not Hastelloy C

Tbh senpai it doesn't fucking matter.