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I'm really good friends with one of the managers at the

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File: P1030114.jpg (393KB, 1500x844px) Image search: [Google]
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I'm really good friends with one of the managers at the grocery store I work at and he told me his dad fought in the Philippines during WWII and that he brought home a Japanese rifle. I asked if I could take a look at it sometime because I think old guns are neat and to see if I could find out if it was worth anything for him and maybe buy it off of him if it isn't crazy rare or of great value, assuming he can find it.

The extent of my knowledge of rifles from Japan during WWII is the Type 38 and Type 99 Arisakas, and that most of the Emperor's crest stamped into the receivers were scratched off around the end of the war, so the ones with the crests intact are worth more than those without. Other than that I'm going in pretty blind. He said his dad served in 1943 so any rifles used around that time would be fair game, he also said it has flip-up sights, it came with a bayonet, and has a bit of surface rust. Anything I should look for in particular? How much would something like this be worth?
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>>34109330
$300-1000. Depends on a lot of stuff. Probably closer to 300 though.
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>>34109330
>the ones with the crests intact are worth more than those without.
The only time an intact 'mum adds a significant amount to the value of a Japanese rifle is if that rifle also retains all it's original matching parts.
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>>34109361
I would assume all the parts are matching if his dad just brought home and never touched it afterwards
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What a cunt selling his dads rifle.
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>>34109550
>inherited items cant be sold PERIOD

I also said "maybe", I dunno how much sentimental value he has attached to it. His dad liked his 1903 more anyway.
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>>34109544
>I would assume all the parts are matching if his dad just brought home and never touched it afterwards
Not necessarily. GIs frequently lost small parts like dust covers or cleaning rods.
>>
Japan would have issued or had stocks of 4 rifles during WW2. Based on age (acceding): Type 30, Type 38, Type I, Type 99. Things that effect the value on a Japanese rifle:
>Overall condition
>Mum
>Extras still there
>Matching bolts
>Model
>Stock condition on Type Is
>Length of pull on Type Is
>Last ditch have their own weird collectors market

Most guns are going to fall $250-800. Type 38s are typically not missing componets but don't have all the fancy fixings that Type 99s do. Type I's don't have the huge collectors market that the other guns do but typically cost $100 more than a 38 in similar condition. Type 30s are rare and hence carry the highest premium ($600-1200 on average).

Bolts often don't match on guns brought back by enlisted soldier (usually the officer in charge made them put the bolts in a box for the trip home) but if it was brought back by an officer chances are good the bolt matches. Type Is used a different bolt (it is a Carcano action not a Mauser action) so the action if numbered usually matches.

Type Is were made by Italy for the Japanese Navy. They have the same two piece stocks at the other rifles but the Italians did not have the skills down to make them well. Many of the stocks have come apart over the years.
Another Type I factor is length of pull. The early Type Is have the same length of pull as a Carcano and later ones (and some early that had been shortened by a Japanese arsenal) have the same as the other Japanese rifles.
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>>34109696
Being completely new to actually disassembling a gun, where would the indication be that the bolt matches the rest of the parts? Would there be a serial number on all of them?
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>>34109330
give him 250 for it
>>
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>>34109887
I'm not gonna lowball the guy, he pulls strings to get me import beer I can't buy anywhere else and gives me car advice
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>>34109845
>Would there be a serial number on all of them?
Generally speaking yes

Here's a good video for review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0j4eWPeHhE
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>>34109845
In general for milsurp guns, there is anywhere from the last few digits to the entire serial number stamped or etched into the bolt. If I can remember right, Arisakas have the number stamped on the bold handle.

To remove the bolt on an Type 38 or 99 there is a lever right next to the bolt the you pull while pulling the bolt back. Google how to remove a mauser bolt and check for youtube videos on it. For the Type I, you open the bolt and while pulling the trigger, pull the bolt back out of the action.
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File: Type 44 assembly numbers.jpg (457KB, 1146x1245px) Image search: [Google]
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>>34109845
Depends on the gun and what arsenal/manufacturer made it.
Tokyo Arsenal made Type 30 rifles and Carbines, Type 38 rifles and carbines and Type 44 carbines. They were all matched with an assembly number.

Kokura Arsenal made Type 38 rifles and carbines, Type 44 carbines and Type 99 short rifles.
Until early in Type 99 production, they matched the major parts with the last digits of the serial number, but for minor parts (such as the extractor) they matched with an assembly number. For Type 99 production they switched to just using the last digits of the serial number, but early ones would have been matched with both assembly number and serial number depending on the part.

Jinsen Arsenal in Korea followed Kokura's. They made a few Type 38 rifles before switching to Type 99s.

Nagoya Arsenal made Type 38 rifles and carbines, Type 44 carbines, Type 99 long and short rifles and Type 2 paratrooper rifles. They always matched with the last digits of the serial number.

Hoten Arsenal (AKA Mukden) in Manchuria made Type 38 rifles and carbines and very few Type 99s. They matched with both an assembly number and last digits of the serial number, even sometimes on the same parts. The bolt handle will have an assembly number on one side and last digits of the serial number on the other.

Toyo Kogyo (modern company Mazda) made Type 99 long and short rifles. The very first ones were matched with an assembly number, then switched to the last digits of the serial number.

The rest of the makers just made Type 99s and used the last digits of the serial number.

Confused? I hope. Pic related, it's my Tokyo Arsenal made Type 44 that I bought as "mismatched" but it's all matching.
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>>34110093
>Don't scare OP!
Ease him in slowly them when he is hooked you throw him in the deep end.
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