I'm in the market for a gun safe. Not looking to spend thousands,

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First safe i ever bought.
Love the look.

Very surprised at limited space despite being a 20-something gun safe.
Almost full at 12 fully dressed rifles.

>>33924069
Find your nearest Winchester/Browning safe/gun dealer. Like the gun shop that keeps lots of over/under and trap/skeet guns on hand. They will periodically have closeouts on a safe when new models are coming in. You can usually score a good 18 gun Browning safe for $900 or so. They aren't the nicest but for that money will likely have better fire ratings and thicker steel than most of the budget brands.

Also if you have a Gander Mountain going out of business nearby maybe see if they have any safes. They won't want to move those to another location to sell so they'll likely make you a deal on it. Haggle with them and try to get a manager's override for the discount.

>>33924138
Oh and make sure they will deliver the fucking safe and place it in your home. You don't want to have to navigate that big bastard in to your place. You can, but don't do it if you can help it.

Also that local Winchester/Browning dealer is likely to deliver it to your place for free. They will forklift it in to some dude who works their's truck and with a good handtruck get it in to your place.

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>>33924069
>mfw theres a goddamn luger in the pouch on the door

>>33924089
>>33924138
Thanks for the response. So the Browning safes are the way to go? Any other brands to look out for, good or bad?

keep two things in mind: safety is an illusion. and any company that sells you a fireproof safe is selling you a lie. I recommend getting two or three small safes:
>one for the kids - pellet guns and 22s
>one for you - the replaceables
>one for the antiques/expensive toys
you get robbed, maybe they only find the pellet gun safe. your home burns down, maybe only the ar15s melt. it just increases your odds to have them spread out.

>>33924138
This x1000 and either buy one for 2x the number of long guns or just get the biggest one you can afford and transport.

>>33924400
Are you a squirrel?

>>33924069
How much fireproofing and security are you after?

If you're looking for something that actually does great in a fire, you need to look at safes with a UL fire rating. 2 hours should be sufficient. Only problem is that many of these independently tested/rated safes are neither cheap nor particularly spacious. An Amsec UL3918, for example, is only 39x18x18 on the inside. Obviously 39" is sufficient for most rifles with collapsible or folding stocks. It might not do so well with grandpappy's rifles though.

>>33924334
Once you get in to the higher quality safes the cost is largely a function of the price of the nice steel to make it from and the amount used. Those are pretty fixed costs. There are expensive blends of steel that defeat torching etc and the foam compound they blow in to voids between the outside and inner plates for fire resistance is pretty much the same from safe to safe.

With your budget a discounted Browning is probably your best bet. If you have like $25,000 in guns you want to stick in the safe I'd consider paying more. When you get to the $3k range you can start looking at some heavier gauge steel US made Ft. Knox models.

>>33924069
A nore on fireproof safes: my dad is a gunsmith, and he has had several people bring him guns that were in a "fireproof" safe during a fire. None of them came out well, although it did appear that the damage was mostly done to them due to steam getting in the safe rather than the actual fire or heat.

>>33925169
Corrosion?

>>33925285
Probably a mix of heat and water from the firehoses getting in. I imagine the combo would be hell on wood stocks. If they didn't get the safe open in a day or two after the fire corrosion might happen as well.

>>33925285
>>33925322
Most of the time the finish on the wood was messed up, occasionally melted plastic as well. Anodized aluminum usually turned out the best, blued finishes might be ok if they were pulled out and and got oiled up quickly, but often they turned out rusty. Never seen what would happen with something like ceracote on the gun.

>>33925460
Do most guns come out still functional?
I assume most fires dont burn hot enough or long enough to structurally effect the steel.

I have what's left of a Liberty Lincoln. The door mech was messed up on it, I was working on it, and closed it like a dumbass.. Ended up cutting through the front in a manner so I could weld a plate on it and make it usable again.

Anyhow. Those are supposed to be " 90 minute fire rated ". Only thing in the fucking door was 2 layers thick of drywall. We're talking a $2000+ safe too. Honestly, I am more worried about armor plating the son of a bitch. I am welding 1/2 thick steel around mine, and putting 3 different locking mechanisms on it.

>>33925115
What this guy said. For sure. I was in my safe with a cut off wheel, in less than 30 minutes.. Easily. If I knew NOW getting into one.. I could be in 10 minutes, flat. The steel on that thing was a joke.

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GL with your expensive safe, OP.

I had a cheap ass $50 locker-style one from Gander Mountain that survived my entire garage burning down in 2009 due to my neighbor's house catching on fire. All I had in it was a Mossberg 500, a Nugget and a couple revolvers. Everything was literally fine.

>>33925571
You made a good point. Time and effort will defeat every safe. You pay to increase the time and effort it takes to get in to one. If you have a security system that will call the police you just need a decent safe. If you're storing lots of nice guns and a mix of precious metals and jewelry in a storage unit or warehouse you probably want a $10,000+ safe. At that point the list of reputable makers is pretty short.

Ideally you want a safe that will hold up to crowbar and circular saw long enough for ADT or whoever to get the cops to your place.

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>>33925683

That being said, no safe is robbery proof. Always place it in a location that would make it hard to wind up an axe or sledgehammer into it. Pry bars as well.

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>>33925683
>>33925704

You can have the strongest locking bars ever, but if your safe material is shit (most are) -- it's getting bent and broken into.

>>33925683
Maybe he wants something that can't be broken in to with a claw hammer in under a minute. Glad your guns survived though.

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>>33925683
>>33925704
>>33925718

This was done with a screw driver. This safe goes for $850+.

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>>33925721


Your third grade teachers are rolling in their graves over your reading comprehension skills.


Top locking bolts do not work either.

>>33925704

>>33925740
This safe gore facinates me but makes me feel bad for the owners. They put in the effort on some of those to buy at least what they thought was decent protection.

>>33924649
He's not wrong.

Nothing is fireproof--if your house burns down around the safe, literally no safe on the market will keep the guns from burning up.

Literally nothing is completely thief-proof. Give a smart enough thief enough time and tools and he can get into anything, and yes that includes bank vaults. They buy you time. You do have a monitored alarm system, right?

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>>33925683
>>33925704
>>33925718
>>33925740
>>33925756


Do not order any safes online either, OP. They will come in gauged up and fucked up beyond belief. Go in person.

Also, bring a dime in with you. If you can fit a dime within any of the gaps -- congrats. You can pry it open.

>>33925756
How does it feel to be such an abrasive douche? I bet your third grade teachers aren't surprised you still don't play well with others.

>>33925740
>Remington
Nuff said

>>33925811
The Browning, Cannon, Field & Stream, Stack-On, Liberty, etc. safes are no better.

Sturdy safe.

Call them and ask about pricing.

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>>33925683
>>33925704
>>33925718
>>33925740
>>33925756
>>33925772

Also, don't be fooled by crazy thick walls. Most of that shit is just a type of fire-resistant drywall. The rest of it? 12 gauge steel. Look at the label if you don't believe me.

This is on one of Liberty's flagship models.


>>33925767

Same. The only reason to purchase one of the extremely expensive ones is for fireproofing (and even then, most fireproofing only lasts a few hours), or making it take an extra 10 minutes to break in.

Axe safe break in with an axe in under 5 minutes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXVfVUW2ZkI

Using a grinder for a cleaner job. At 3:10 "I think I could honestly do this in about 5 minutes". Didn't even burn out one wheel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-9vWa-C44I

>"So if you've got a safe in your house or just a metal locking cabinet, they have the same locking security."

It's really shitty what the modern safe industry is doing to consumers. Unless you own yourself a real old safe with .5 - 1 inch thick walls -- congrats. You were gypped.

>>33925808

Don't have such thin 12 gauge skin. This is /k/ speak.

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>>33925869

Sorry, wrong image. Here's the skin thin Liberty:

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>>33925874

And an even closer look of the Liberty. Only offers 30 minutes of fire protection.

The only way to "Theif" proof a safe is to hide it well, like behind a fake wall / painting, or in a trap door type false floor set up. A buddy of mine has a few quick accesses recesses in his home, like you push a panel and a gun falls out type shit. Its hype as fuck, you keep guns close but out of sight.

>>33925569
If it's bare steel then most fires do burn plenty hot

>>33925869
There are real safe companies still, they just don't really see them.

Fort Knox safes don't use fake thick doors and bodies it's all steel and they offer stainless door backers for torch protection.
Same for graffunder, it really is a case of getting what you pay for.

Spend the money on smoke alarms and don't leave the house.

>>33926217

for anything less than hundreds of thousands of dollars, its better just to buy homeowners insurance

>>33925769
I know he's not wrong about the fire or theft proofing, I'm referring to him hiding safes around his house like acorns.

>>33924069
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltK-bDbADa8
this is a really helpful video