Knife Design/ Knife Thread General/ Knives Daily

>>33066743
Personally, I like the middle one the best, but I know next to nothing about knifemaking so I shouldn't say much.

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>>33067599
isn't that just a drawing of the benchmade hidden canyon/old bone collector skinner?


I kinda like the bottom one. Also, here's a picture of some of my knives (at least the ones I use regularly, out of the 35+ that I have)

>>33066743

What steel and thickness you plan on doing?

Bottom one I'd say. Maybe a 3in blade though

>>33066743
Top pure sex with right materials. I like mid too if it has a nice bolster combo.

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>>33066743
>not a sketch of a sebenza
You tried I guess.

>>33070112
why would anyone sketch shit?

>>33070112

If Chris Reeve didn't run his s35vn soft as shit on purpose I'd be in for several sebenzas and an umnunmumum.

Don't complain to him about it though, unless you want to get into a physical altercation at an industry show.

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>>33070447
wait, you mean I can get a legitimate reason to stab the fucker in the neck and rid the world of his shitty knives?

Dayum, son, you got me interested.

Here, have a picture of a nice knife.

>>33066743
bottom is best

>>33070112
Keep up the great work.

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>>33066743
When you design a knife you need to decide exactly what its purpose is- from there you move onto finding a style of blade which suits that purpose and then an edge geometry.
With handles, its very important to protect the user's hand as ultimately while the purpose of the blade is essential, not lopping fingers off, slipping and fatigue is just poor craftsmanship. Having an unsuitable shape there is going to make it at best an irritation that makes it hard to orient the cutting edge to something which is basically a hazard.

With smaller fixed blades its important to keep them as light as possible with a decent point of balance somewhere between the bolster-blade area and at least 3 fingers + thumb to have complete purchase on the handle itself and preferably all 4. That often means with a longer handle the balance is more difficult on a smaller fixed knife- remember its also not under as much leverage so you can get away with a half or 3/4 tang which won't really affect its strength if the handle material is strong enough. You can also make the blade broader across which can offset it, but I like to make a balanced blade that feels neutral in the hand as after all- there's dozens of mass knife manufacturers out there that don't bother as its 'too difficult', 'expensive on materials' or they just can't be fucked.

>>33071475
Why on earth would you want a small blade that's not handle heavy?

I like the handle shape of the middle and the blade shape of the top. Mix the two and you've got a fixed I'd definitely have in my collection, especially if good steel.

Also I've been out for like 2 weeks. What thread number we on?

>>33071775
No idea since a bunch of guys made just basic knife threads. Think we're somewhere in the 70's.

In the meantime waiting for my first PM2 to come in the mail. Hope I like it. Got a delica, stretch, and a Manbug and they're great knives.

>>33071581
Handle heavy is something common to folders and $10 Chinkistani mass produced shit that people make do with, having never handled a knife made for them.

Which is fine for occasional, light use for people to skin the odd bunny, open cardboard boxes, terrorise the odd carrot and spends most of its life in someone's pocket- but I've also made little, simple blades for process workers, people who spend all day gutting fish, boning apart half a tonne of chickens or beef. For that kind of user its quite important to manage fatigue in terms of weight and balance, a good knife will balance itself in the user's grip so it literally is just another finger on their hand.

That's just part of being a custom knife maker, making things with a level of detail the mass produced guys won't bother with.

>>33072258
I have a Stretch as well. The PM2 is on my short list. You'll love it.

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>>33072595
Just came in. Bought it secondhand the blurple version. A lot bigger than I thought so I'm pleasantly surprised.

>>33072285
you still want the point of balance behind the blade, though. Makes the knife easier to manipulate than when it's balanced around the guard/bas of the blade.

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>>33066743
I always like blades with a recurve personally. also im gonna dump infographics on knife design for you OP

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>>33072862

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>>33072870

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>>33072640
will you be my blurple buddy?

>>33072938
Sure thing /k/omrade.

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>>33072987
My Contego /k/ompadre?

>tfw want to get into knife making just as a little hobby to actually make shit that works for me
>tfw poorfag and don't have the room for a forge and all kinds of other knife making shit
bout all I have is some old screwdrivers and flat files, basic hand tools, a angle grinder, a weed burner, and a mapp gas torch
can I do anything with that?

>>33066743
I like the top the most, with some nice scales and like hard sheath like kydex I could imagine that as a good work knife.

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I've been working on this recently

>>33073462
You need to get a
$100 belt sander
$60 wheel grinder
I would go with an acetylene torch but if yours can heat the metal past the magnetic stage then go for it.

You don't need a forge unless you really want to forge your knives. Just use stock and cut it to shape with a drill and jigsaw like most do.

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>>33073628
another pic, still needs a lot of hand sanding

>>33073440
Fraid not desu senpai. Can be your Benchmade /k/ompadre. Don't have them on though.

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>>33066743
Ah, come on. Go for broke.

>>33066743
What blade profile is the most cyberpunk?
>hard mode
Can't say Tanto.

>>33074844
it's the most cyberpunk

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>>33073628
>>33073641
Sweet! what kind of wood is that?

>>33074394
lets just stick with blurple buddy, makes us look exclusive

>>33075070
how are you removing all that metal around tang?

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Post knives you do like.

>>33075206
Bandsaw and Angle Grinder. Then files for the precision stuff as I get close to the end. The files take 90% of the time for stock removal. My bandsaw doesn't curve well on steel.

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>>33071475
I appreciate the post. I like to think I have man hands, at 6'2" and 190lbs but I'm pretty sure I prefer more heft overall, at least for fixed blades, and even for hiking and especially camping. If you have small hands, then a heavier knife should be even better, as it provides more force towards whatever you're cutting. A Buck 110 takes care of things that much longer, lighter knives struggle with. Perfect example, actually. My 110 rips through a can better than my big ass KA BAR.

For soft materials like flesh, and hours of work, yeah I see the benefit of a lightweight blade, but I do not believe the perfect balance point if

woops hit post too early. Anyways, the ideal balance point probably varies a lot, person to person, knife to knife, task to task. However for general work, be it at a warehouse, rooftop/ attic (my field of work) or kitchen or campground, I believe it should be around 2/3 of the way back, just behind the blade. For small knives, maybe even a hilt, to make the balance point in the center of your hand. Even use a plastic utility knife or box cutter? Where it weights almost nothing? And when you go to work it through something hard, it had no force whatsoever. But if that flimsy POS razor blade had the weight of a Buck 110, now you're in business. Again, your size/ weight, hand size, varies too

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>>33075070
Its stabilized Rio Grande Applewood.

Also in related news, its finished!

Trying to decide on a new knife, I wanted a green 940 osborne but they are sold out for at least another 2 months, Stuck between a microtech Ultratech or a Benchmade mini reflex II.

Any good auto knife recommendations sub $200 range?

>>33074844
Recurve bowie with a sawback.

>>33077435
Ultratech is fairly priced for what it is. Quality d/a otf in Elmax is pretty good for $250 especially when you can get it just how you want it with blade shape and finish, handle texture and color. I'd skip any Benchmade as they're overpriced and have bad QC. 940's are everywhere though, have you checked all the knife sites? Autos are novelty but the only one I would recommend is a Protech.

rip image uploading

just got Kershaw Amplitude 2.5

r8 muh first knife /k/

>>33076923

I'm not a huge fan of hollow grinds - prefer full flat or scandi, but that handle looks comfy as fuck.

>>33075518
>>33075559
Yep for sure, on something like a large chopper you tend to want it a bit more 'lively' and weight forward to use that inertia behind the blade length-weight itself to do the cutting.
Majority of smaller-medium knives I tend to find it at the bolster/guard or a finger forward of it seems to be the happy spot, the index finger rest area is also popular place for a lot of people who use a knife in a sabre-type of grip, on a kitchen knife it'll usually be used most of the time in a draw cut or pinch grip style, so I usually index the balance point at the bolster.

Now, for a blade which is used heavily for slashing and thrusting, balance is probably a little more important than most people realise.
Mostly weight is key, it aids in recovery- so when you swing out with a slash, a blade that is tip heavy will draw itself forward in the users grip when it strikes. So when you design a chopper if its centre of mass is indexing where its primary strike zone is, if its further forward then it pulls the knife forward in the grip, if the weight is behind the strike area, then the blade will want to rotate around that centre of mass in the users grip and make it harder to orient in the hand. But if you where to weight a blade like a hatchet or mace for example, it will tend to press backwards when it strikes.

Those aren't golden rules you "must" follow, but I'm just adding them in there as more of a reference point for consideration when you design a blade and it comes down to producing them for a given purpose. But they are rules I've found to be useful over the years when I make a knife for someone, plus its easier for us when we do make a knife to adjust the weight and balance when it goes into production than it will ever be for someone to pick knives off a shelf and try and find one they like the balance of.

>>33076923
looks great

>>33078318
Decent I guess. It's a Kershaw which means it will be a good design with poor materials at medium prices and mediocre warranty/customer service. It might last you a year or so. At least it's better than a Gerber or SOG

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>>33079266
>>33078972
Thanks

>>33066743
OP, really liking the top design.

Would you be able to draw it with a flat grind and a two pin arrangement through the handle like the bottom knife?

>>33072870
What use would an asymmetrical or compound grind be for?

>>33084528
Asymmetric grinds you will sometimes find on the odd jap kitchen knife, its a bit of a combination of chisel and hollow grind to some extent but its main purpose is to have the blade surface able to distance itself from whatever you're slicing be able to break the vacuum of wet food sticking to the knife. They also get very sharp like a chisel grind

Compound grinds are more of a sword thing in that you retain a lot of width along the spine for strength, but it tapers down to have a sturdy mid section before the final bevels so that it reduces drag when cutting through. The thicker final bevel surfaces are also a little more resistant on chipping when they get slammed into metal, bone, someones head etc. They can get very sharp, but mostly its designed to minimise weight and maintain strength

>>33084528
>>33084766

asymetrical grinds are also featured on yakut knives, and strait razors.

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>>33084862
Looks like bastardized version of a rencong and a karambit, though I'm not sure if it was intentional or if the maker's retarded accident just happens to resemble them.

>>33078318
I've handled a Kershaw Pico, local sporting good store wanted $39.99 for it. This Amplitude 2.5 seems better. Ideally I like to carry a very small knife for light duty tasks, paired with a larger one that I don't might it getting messed up.

>>33083008
Yeah top is still my favorite. Here's 4 with very slight variations. Top has about 1/8" more belly. 2nd has thinner handle
2 & 3 some variations of the scales. I mean to do one with the top recurving back. (The scales)
4 looks best to my eye.

Yeah I definitely do not have the skill like #897 for a perfectly straight line below the spine. >>33082897

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>>33086800