I want to start painting in acrylic will -Titanium White -Payne's

You should start with a mono color pallette until you have honed your skill. You can always add more colors later once the values are established. I recommend a red or a blue if you go this route.

>>2767560
You can pretty much nail it with

-Prussian blue
-Medium yellow
--Magenta

You should read the acrylic painter's bible by marylin scott if you want to hone your technique skills.

It's a great book with many exercises.

>>2767565
Anon could start with a limited palette like the velazquez. Good range, makes you think in values and you have to contrast hues to get the illusion that it's more colorful than it is. But then I think in watercolor and have no idea how acrylic mixes so using only burnt sienna and ultramarine blue may not have the same value range.

Go with the Zorn palette. Yellow ochre, a warm red (I recommend cadmium red but cadmiums are pricey), titanium white and black, preferably ivory/bone black.

Learn how acrylics behave without a medium at first. DESU i think medium is pretty useless anyway since it fucks with your pigments. It certainly doesn't improve the paint's quality and you don't really need it imho. Acrylics dry fast and that's their characteristic, learn how to deal with that.

>>2767565

is a good approach to take as well.

>>2767560
id say:
lemon yellow
magenta (crimson is shitty)
turquoise if you can find it
burnt umber
prussian blue
titanium white
raw umber (idk if van dyke brown is an acrylic color but if they have that go for that instead)

yellow ochre and payne's grey are memes

>>2767578

Why lemon yellow instead of yellow ochre? A warm yellow is so much more useful than a cold one. I also don't get the turquoise since there's already the prussian blue. Van Dyke brown is available in acrylics as well.

For a split primaries palette that can mix nearly everything you can go with:

Titanium White
Hansa Yellow Light / Cad Yellow Light / Bismuth Yellow
Yelow Ochre / Transparent Oxide Yellow / Raw Sienna / Indian Yellow / Hansa Yellow Deep
Pyrrole Red/Orange
Madder Deep / Quin Rose / Quin Red
Ultramarine Deep
Phthalo Blue Green shade
Ivory Black

For a minimal palette that's more useful for portraits you can just dump all the cool colors.

Recommended: Burnt Sienna / Transparent Oxide Red
Optional: Phthalo Green / Burnt/Raw Umber / other convenience colors

>>2767584
lemon is primary, better to start as far down in the yellow spectrum and work your way up than cut it off because you wanted to start with something warmer. you'll get a wider range of yellows if you start with lemon.

turquoise is hard to mix. there's greens in turquoise you can't fake. same with magenta. if you've ever tried to mix a purple with any red besides magenta you'll know it's impossible. and buying purples in the tube, they always look fake.

lemon, turquoise, and magenta are the hardest things to mix yourself so it's better to just use them as your primaries.

>>2767595
look at Cash McMoneybags over here

>>2767601

I have gotten perfectly fine purples with alizarin crimson. But okay, your CMYK explanation is fair, i just don't agree with it.

>>2767601
Lemon Yellow, Turquoise and Magenta are just generic names that come in a variety of different pigments.
Most Lemon Yellows are PY3 which is weak and not lightfast when applied thinly. Cad Yellow Light/Pale or Bismuth Vanadate are both much better choices for a cool yellow, but expensive. I'd rather compromise and get a Hansa Medium or Diarylide since those are more useful outside of landscapes.
Turquoise is not a very useful color to start with, and can get expensive with Phthalo and Cobalt being the only good choices. They're also less chromatic than their plain-old blue varieties.
Quinacridone Magenta is a great cool red to start with, can also be substituted for a Quin Rose or Red, or a Perylene Maroon color if a good Alizarin Crimson alternative is desired.

>>2767604
The only expensive pigments in there and the Cad Yellow and Bismuth, which I personally wouldn't buy unless I did a lot of landscapes.
Pyrrole Red is sort of expensive but there's no good alternative for a warm red desu. Cads are even pricier and not as good, and Napthol Red is weaker and less lightfast.
You could dump either the cool or red of each color and still get a pretty decent palette, but I would keep at least a Burnt Sienna or Umber to mix chromatic darks with.

>>2767612
>>2767613
gotta keep in mind this is for a beginner's palette though.

you need to make the gulf between each color big enough that when they mix them there's room for error. if you give a beginner too many colors it's pointless because they aren't deft enough to mix similar things and notice the differences.

the 6 colors for complimentary palettes are cyan magenta red green blue yellow.

of those the best 3 to pick as your complimentaries for a limited palette are cyan, yellow, and magenta. that's where you are allowed the most mistakes.

also im glad we can all agree: fuck green.

>>2767560
If you're a complete novice to painting, you can manage with
Titanium white, burnt sienna & ultramarine blue.

Learn how to use the paints first.
And always leave your brushes to stand in water, unless you like buying new brushes for every new painting.

>>2767618
I agree that a limited palette is the way to go for a beginner, but I disagree with using a cyan color. There aren't any matches that are single-pigment and cheap that I'm aware of, most are a mix of phthalo blue, green and white, and the cobalt versions are just about the most expensive thing you could buy. I think a normal Ultramarine is a perfectly fine choice. It's not high-chroma like a Phthalo, but it's a lot easier to work with since it won't overpower your mixes. I also think you would need to add either a dark complementary to either your magenta or blue to mix darks with, since ivory or carbon black will dull things down too much.

>>2767618
>>2767630
For his drawmixpaint palette Mark Carder uses a Cad Yellow Light, Pyrrole Rubine, French Ultramarine, Burnt Umber and Titanium White.
I think this is a good place to start, replacing the Cadmium with a cheaper yellow like a Hansa Medium and the Pyrrole Rubine with something more common like a Quinacridone.

WILL these color recs also work for oil?

>>2767639
Should work for every type of paint, but with oil it's important to keep your drying times and transparency in mind, depending on if you're painting alla prima or in layers. I think Burnt Umber is a lot less useful in oil except in underpaintings since it dries fast and tends to sink in.

>>2767646
>Should work for every type of paint
Watercolor is a bit different. More then a few of the colors listed are unholy blends of mystery pigments that don't mix consistently with staple pigments, aren't lightfast (fade in a couple weeks), vary in transparency between brands and don't dry an even color.