I've been making hand painted wooden boxes for commissions,

A few coats of poly sanded with successively finer grit sand paper in between coats would do well.

>>942206
This plus a high speed buffing

Isn't laquor supposed to be the hardest, smoothest and most shiny

As the other anons stated, you need to follow the directions and do it properly.

Don't forget to sand
wipe it off if it says to, etc. don't use a metric fuck ton, actually use a clear coat after and then sand/buff that accordingly.


I'm unsure if it's actual wood or just a box painted to look like wood

>>942206
>>942242
+1

Water or oil based poly. Three coats minimum. Apply a coat, let dry, lightly sand with +1000/2000 grit sand paper, move on to next coat. Do that a few times, then buff at the end.

>>942206
>>942256
>>942258

Sorry to sound like a noob but what are you guys referencing that I should be buying in the first place? Like what kind of chemical is it? And will it affect the oil paint in any negative way?

>>942184
easiest solution, won't be quite as shiny as picture, can of spray shellac. then buff.
but basically go to store, look for a glossy finish on the can, read the can to make sure it can be applied ontop of oil based paint.

>>942270
They're talking about polyurethane. It's durable, clear and shiny. Easiest method is to buy "wipe-on" polyurethane, meaning you apply it with a rag, literally wiping it onto the surface.

Gotta make many layers of clear coat.

Use fine steel wool in between coats (I sure there is a dremel attachment) to prepare for each successive coat.

Also, using an air powered spray gun deposits a hell of a lot more lacquer quicker than by hand.

Good luck!

>>942425
It might be good to put a coat of Dammer varnish in between the pigment and the clear coat

>>942184
A lacquer would give the most glossy, smooth feel.
It would require an HVLP sprayer, mask, and good ventilation, though.
You can still get a very glossy finish with polyurethane. The key in any case is polishing.
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/rubbing-out-a-high-gloss-finish/

>>942184
Looks like a French polish
Google for more
And when the other anon said to sand poly with sand paper they are wrong
Isle 0000 steel wool. If you go the poly route.

truoil might be suitable

>>942425
>>942549

You guys are bad at being trolls

>>942184
can you also provide examples of your work? i'd like to see that

>>942184
You can easily achieve this effect with a non-toxic resin. Such as elichemresin 1-2-1 (if in euro) or artresin (if you're in murica). Much less work that french polish and great results. You're welcome.

>>942184
>>943017
Forgot to say, if you want a really hard and durable surface, let's say something like a kitchen table where there is constantly utensils, hot coffee mugs etc, then you have to use the poisonous resins. But I think for you're purpose the non-toxic ones I mentioned will work fine.

>>943019
>using toxic resin for foodstuffs

Enjoy your kidney failure.

File: octochest.jpg (305KB, 600x600px) Image search: [Google]

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I don't need it to be as smooth or polished as the picture, I just think the boxes would look better with some sort of clear coat that will keep the oil paint safe

>>943011

Here's one I just finished

>>943017

How would I apply the resin to a box though? Would I have to do one side at a time? I feel like it would come out weird

>>943405
Oh god don't bother if you're not going to paint it right.

>>943040
>eating direct off the table

Why don't you have plates?

>>943405
the name says octochest but all i see its goatsechest

>>943800

"paint it right"

What are you even trying to say?

>>944032
It looks nice, and I'm sure would look nicer with the clear coat of varnish or whatever over that you're trying to find.
>everyone's got a little fagit in them :P

>>944317

>it would look better with the clear coat

That's why I made this thread...

Would something like pic related be alright to use?

File: highglossvarnish.jpg (105KB, 632x1500px) Image search: [Google]

105KB, 632x1500px

>>944450

Meant to attach this