Hey diy. I have heard rumors that there is a method of desoldering

The solder on PCBs melt around 180 to 230 celcius, if you can heat the solder more than that, it will melt, and components can be removed, or fall off..

Heating an entire board to this temperature, is a bad idea, as most capacitors are not designed to withstand that, they are normally wave soldered. some components, especially larger ones might be glued to the board, then again no success, smaller SMD components will not fall of by them self due the capillary effects of the solder.

And finally, most components can be damage of excessive thermal stress, especially electrolytic capacitors.

>>912740
Just find an old toaster oven, and cook the pcb for 5 to 10 minutes

>>912740
I do this frequently at work for certain basic components, but it's really hit and miss. You're better off just buying the bloody things, they're like 1/100th of a penny each...

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>>912781
>You're better off just buying the bloody things, they're like 1/100th of a penny each...

What things? The $4 capacitors, the $10 reed relays, or the bucket of crystals that start a $1 each?

>>912740
I use a pair of needle nose pliers and a resistance solder. It is fast and easy. It also doesn't burn out any component with too much heat.

Check this out around the 1 minute mark. I think this is what you're talking about.

The video, btw, is about recovering components so they can make counterfeit components out of them.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5vN_7NJ4qYA

>>912793
getting the big parts is alright, desoldering resistors is retarded. at work we throw away two cubic meters of old electronics every week, i learned only to grab things like a big (usable) transformer every now and then and things like high end potentiometers etc.
and still when I wanted to build an amplifier I didn't have a 2*24 volt 300VA transformer so I ended up buying all the parts anyway

>>912793
You're getting your parts from the wrong place.

>>912793
>A pill bottle full of resistors worth about $2.
I'm all for people recycling electronics, environment and shit. But the time it takes to desolder them (or even clip them and have shitty short leads) and then dig through that shit looking for what you need.
I just keep a lot of a few resistances and series/parallel when I need to breadboard and order how ever many I need of the exact value if I'm doing something permanent.

>>912793
>$10 reed switch.
Oh shit he's retarded.

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>>912845
>>912839
Brand new parts are pretty expensive. The last capacitor I bought was $19. I also have a jar of caps worth about $300 had I needed to buy them brand new. I use them all the time for various projects.

Also, when you buy new PCB parts you buy the best you can get, not some From China knock off you found on eBay that is terribly out of spec or counterfiet. When you salvage, you test the specs so you know what you have is actually worth keeping.

>>912837
>>912841
You can get a bottle of parts from a stack of boards in just a few minutes. It is really easy and fast to do. As for cheap low watt resistors, it is nice having a bunch for bread boarding random projects you find online that you don't want to wait for a shipment of parts to come in for.

The best skills I've picked up from salvaging and reusing what I salvage has been part identification, proper spec testing, and prevention of heat death and ESD death to components. The former is great when you need to repair something and the latter is needed if you are soldering anything or work with PCBs in general.

>>912860
Last capacitor I bought was about one buck for 100 on cut tape, from Mouser.

>>912860
>Radio Shack DF detected.
Digikey, Mouser and Farnell are fine.
Again, a $10 reed switch means you're getting fucked.
A $19 cap means nothing. $19 from digikey? $19 from chinkshits? $19 from RadioShack?

>>912870
>>912867
But, I bought it from mouser, it is my go-to place to buy. 2nd is digikey. 5.6v 90f

>>912872
>5.6v 90f

Honestly, I'd be stunned to find one of those in a piece of production electronics in the first place.

Salvaging isn't going to help you with parts like that.

Anyone who salvages resistors under like 10W is retarded. For fuck's sake, not eating out just _once_ will save you enough money to buy a set big enough to last you basically forever.

>>912889
>Salvaging isn't going to help you with parts like that.

Which is why I had nearly all the other caps hooked up. Once I got the design correct, I ordered the big cap.

The rest of your argument is quite moot.

>>912740

just flip it upside down and torch the mother fucker

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What is wrong with getting free parts from scrap electronics? It's /diy/, its' free, and it's recycling. You complainers need to shut up and realize what board you're on.

>>912914
because the chances that whatever scrap you have contains the parts you need is very low.
maybe it was a good idea 20 years ago before surface mount became ubiquitous

oh, and components don't just drop out as soon as the solder melts you have to pull them out

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> all these junklords ITT

Let me ask you faggots; How do you know the component you're pulling for your project is not the component that caused the demise of the device you pulled the board from?

Transformers, fuses, pots, switches. That is the limit of what I'll pull, because all are easy to test. And don't tell me it's economical to test each component you pull, for the hours wasted doing this you may as well just got buy the $10 component grab bag from your favourite outlet. What about logic? You gunna tell me that you will build a test circuit for every 74XX chip you pull? A test circuit for op-amos? Got a plan to extensively test that nice atmel controller you found running the device?

Your time is worth money, and you're wasting both by mixing potentially faulty components in with your part stock.

>>912740
Well if you get the solder molten you can just slam the pcb down on something and the solder will fly off.

Wear goggles and watch where the solder goes. You don't need a hot air gun to do this.

>>912860
That capacitor is like 4 bucks, so it's maybe worth salvaging.

>>912890
Seems like salvaging didn't work and you would have been better off just buying the ultracap at the get go

>>912955
Savaging was for prototyping. Best to get your shit sorted before you start slapping expensive parts into it and frying them.

>>912947
>How do you know the component you're pulling for your project is not the component that caused the demise of the device you pulled the board from?

Statement of someone who knows next to nothing about proper EEE.

You test every single part you use to make sure it is in specification and working correctly before using it in your final project. You do this with the shit you buy and the shit you salvage. You do it when you've had your parts kicking around a year just to make sure they haven't suffered from ESD.

I bet you don't even have the datasheets for your components.

>Your time is worth money

Spoken like someone still in high school. Get a job and you'll learn that your time is utterly worthless.

>image macro

>>912969
> You test every single part you use to make sure it is in specification and working correctly before using it in your final project.

lol, what the fuck kind of autist are you?

> You test every single part you use to make sure it is in specification and working correctly before using it in your final project.

You're in a habit of storing your components off their ESD safe blocks they ship on then? Do you just litter them around your workshop?

> Spoken like someone still in high school. Get a job and you'll learn that your time is utterly worthless.

Stop projecting. Just because you're unable to capitalize on your time doesn't mean we all are.

>>912971
>Stop projecting. Just because you're unable to capitalize on your time doesn't mean we all are.

You're deluded if you think your time is worth anything.

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>>912969
Boy did it get mad in here all of the sudden.

> You test every single part you use to make sure it is in specification and working correctly before using it in your final project. You do this with the shit you buy and the shit you salvage.
No, I don't because in 22 years of the hobby the only failed components I have ever received was a bunch of 12ax7 tubes that had dodgy seals because I went to a different supplier than my normal one, and learned the lesson. Stop buying your components from the cheapest Chinese warehouse you can get find and you might get somewhere.

> make sure they haven't suffered from ESD.
> Not keeping new chips in their ESD packaging they shipped in
Do you even own a soldering iron dude?

> I bet you don't even have the datasheets for your components.
600 odd of them actually for the various components I have used and abused over the years, all available globally with a simple remote back to my home server. There are sheets in here that are scans of 40 year documents not available online, indeed I have been able to help an anon here with data on odd geranium and other transistors BECAUSE I keep datasheets. Oh, and this is only solid state. I have a separate folder for glassware like tubes, VFD's etc, and another again for passives and mechanical.

> Get a job, which pays you for your time, to demonstrate that your time is in fact not worth anything.
Spoken like the millennial shitlord I am increasingly suspecting you to be. I guess this explains why you have enough time on your hands to spend stripping old boards for 20 year old components. But hey, enjoy drowning under junk anon, I'm sure it will all be useful one day.

>>912975
Confirmed for angry millennial shitlord who does not know how to leverage his skills (and I'm being generous here) to make coin. You need to work on that anon, seeing no value in one's self is worse than death, and is going to get you nowhere in life. You deserve more anon, work on it.

I got a Hakko 808 desoldering gun. Expensive, but best fucking investment I ever made. I can pull anything through-hole almost instantly, resistors included. I just keep a big bin of high quality scrap boards (like old scientific or milspec gear) and troll it when I come up short from my parts cabinet. Have used it to reclaim many expensive and vintage ICs in flawless condition.

>>912975
Not the guy you are fighting with, but my time is worth 46$ an hour. Just saiyan. And just bought a $6500 TIG welder yesterday new out of pocket.

>>912793
I love this image. It works the best to summon the autism. They just can't help themselves, they must reply.

>>912740
Ok, OP here. Thread is kinda derailed. Can anyone think of a way I could just heat up a board and get all of the components off at once? Some form of wave soldering perhaps?

>>913001
Wave soldering does the opposite of what you want, only a tiny portion of the board is heated at any time (the part that is passing over the solder wave).

A paint stripping heat gun works, but won't remove all parts at once and can damage components.

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>>913001
As you've been told, oven at around 200 degrees or a heatgun are your only ways of bulk removal short of spending a few hours with an iron. I strip boards to make business card holders, trinket box panels and other things using an oven; get some screws longer than the tallest components on the board, then secure them to the board using nuts via the boards mounting holes so the board can sit component side down without any components touching the surface. Heat the lot for 10 minutes then drop it component side down from a good 6 inch height, bam, board depopulated. Everything that comes off (short of maybe headers, DIP switches and other not so heat sensitive components) goes straight in the bin though. This will not work for components that have had their legs bent over pre-soldering, you'll still need to get in there with an iron and some needle nose pliers.

Someone mentioned capillary action causing SMD's to stay on, not a problem I have ever seen. You just need to drop the board from a greater height. There is no shortcut here.

>>912969
>>912975
Your 14 year old is showing hard. Fuck off you cancerous faggot.

>>912740
i use a paint remover heat gun, vise grip and a brick. vise grip the pcb, heat the solder side until the solder melts and bang the board against the brick. heated area solder flys out onto brick. parts go flying everywhere else. pickup parts off floor. repeat. haven't come across any damaged parts yet (except when i heated the board too long and it caught fire).

>>912966
Why not just build it right the first time? It's not like you are making a completely novel circuit that is so weird you can't analyze it.

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the reason i salvage every part is so i have different value components to experiment with when i'm breadboarding and if i burn out a part i'll just grab the next closest part to keep going. once everything is working as i want, i'll either get new parts for thefinal the build or just use the ones from the experiments (since it worked with those parts).

>>913024
Git gud. Don't burn out parts. Holy tits he even unsoldererd resistors. Well I guess if you enjoy it...................

.

>>912980
This. This is precisely what I do. I'll look a board over, then into a bin with other scrap boards. No sense in pulling something unless it's a last resort, or if it's ridiculously easy and useful like a socketed IC, point-to-point wired, or long leads.

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>>912793
why would inductors and diodes be sorted with resistors? Is this by shape rather than component?
I started circling things that didn't belong, then realized that as far things go, this kind of meticulous salvaging is more a hobby than anything else. I can see how mindless, monotonous and at times delicate work while decent music is playing could be enjoyable. Just incredibly impractical and for those of us to access to a decent postal service, completely unreasonable beyond the relaxing aspect of it.

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>>913035
Lol are you me?

>>913035
>>913097
Oh man, old ATX power supplies are the tits for salvaging components.
With my cheap as desoldering station i can practically strip a board in under 10 minutes.
I'll probably never have a use for all the transformers Ive reclaimed over the years, though.
fuck that GreatScott guy for suggesting it.

>>913121
>I'll probably never have a use for all the transformers Ive reclaimed over the years
I made a compass needle twitch. Woohoo.

Also I charged up them big caps good and discharged them onto metal.

>>913041
>1327600944061.jpg

>>913032
Unless you have a project for that display panel, chuck that albatross away.

>>913125
>Throwing away a VFD

Haha.

No.

>>913126
Innit. I have one from an old till. Haven't got it to work yet - I put about 3vdc into the filaments and even in a dark room I couldn't get a glow. Too scared to drive it higher, but I'll do something with it one day.

You can even use them as amplifiers.

>>913125
You're new to this aren't you?

When you salvage, you find projects to do.

>find old CRT
>time for plasma speaker!!!!

>>913128
Uhh.. the filaments aren't supposed to glow numbnuts. How about you look up how they are actually supposed to work before you fuck it up?

>>913128
>3vdc
was that to the filament or the grid?
The sensitive part here is the filament, the grid typically goes up to 13~15V to display anything.
If the filament is glowing you've fucked it up, but at 3V it should probably still be alright.

>>912752
>as most capacitors are not designed to withstand that

This is true. I tried to do this on a motherboard to reuse some of the components. The plastic parts melted and the capacitors popped.

Most of the other solid state components (i.e: voltage regulators) will survive the operation.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDX-lknj3IM

>>912740
i used to break down old tvs left on the roadside
loads of fun and parts for free

dont add too much heat to plastic parts they go all melty == not work