Started reading up on electronics about a month ago, reading

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Another image of the lamp

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>>906855
I don't work with tubes, but from what I gather by looking at that webpage:

Drive the filament (f+=2 f-=3) with 0.6v DC.
Apply 10 to 50 volts at the Anode (A)
Apply a 5 volt signal at pin G for indication.

Like I said, I don't work with tubes so I don't really understand what is going on, but I am pretty sure this is what they mean.

>>906869
Does this tube not require a ground then? I understand that ИB-15 is used in logic circuits, but I've got a generic LED stuck in my head when I try to light it up, with a positive lead and a lead going to ground/negative

>>906871
Again little experience, but perhaps if the 5v and the 10v-50v share a ground reference then it doesn't matter? Try it out, whats the worst that could happen.

>>906876
>>906869
Thanks for your help, I will try

>>906871
The filament is the reference point, or "ground".

>>906877
I would create the 10-50v with a small transformer, a couple diodes, and a capacitor. It is simple and it will make it isolated.

>>906893
Do you have a schematic I could use? I was just going to use two 9v batteries

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>>906894
The batteries should also work. Just make sure that the ground of your 5v is attached to the gnd/negative of the batteries.

Something like this is what I had in mind. Real basic stuff. Since your current requirements are low and you don't need a precise voltage, you can just throw it together from whatever junk you have lying around.

>>906901
(ignore the component values). Also, your current requirements are really low (less than 1mA) so you could probably even wind your own tiny transformer.

>not looking up data
shiggy shiggy.

http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_iv-15.html

-apply 12v or something to anode.
-use ohms law to calculate series resistance needed to get 35mA on the heater from said 12v supply.
-apply something to the input and see if it lights.

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So with your guy's help and some help from /g/, I finally got the tube to light!

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>>907227
The solution was

.9v on pin F+
F- shares neg with both power sources
5v on pin G
And I pushed 24v on pin A

>>907227
>>907230
pretty cool bruh.
post a pic with lower ambient light.

>>906901
Is that a bridge rectifier? If so that's a much, much easier way of looking at it. Why do most places insist on depicting it in that 45degree square fashion?

>>907227
Didn't realise it was so small. It's so cute!

This is such a timely thread, I just got a handful of these and a couple of 12-24v step up converters to try and get them to light. Tried with just 12v and barely got them to show any color. I think I also had the pinout wrong. Going to try your method!

>>909021
because its easily recognizable as a single device that way, and everyone knows how they work anyway.

>>909846
I see. Also, what is the point of grounding the left side of it? Shit ain't going nowhere. Is it in case of a fault?

Reading the data page of this tube, it seems like both voltage and current matter independently - is that so?

I mean, if the anode needs X current, why should it matter what voltage and resistance combination was used to achieve this?

This thread has inspired me to finally figure out this VFD display I salvaged from a Casio till. I'm working out the pins now (there's a sort of schematic on the back but it's hard to read quickly).

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>>910059
Okay the pinout is pretty obvious. I can't find the model on the web (NEC FIP12D13) but I've read up on how these things work. It looks like this but has 12 grids (10 numeric, 2 custom 3-segment ones with chevrons).

I've driven LED displays with shift registers but this is more of a challenge.

If I can't find the model then I can't know the voltages required. Should I take a gamble and use some "typical" values I find online?

Those filament wires look delicate as hell. I don't want to melt them (I know they're tungsten but still).

Without some help I'm stuck here I think. Too afraid to burn it.

>>910087
So just to clarify: I can consider the filament to be a circuit of its own right? Supply that, then you apply a higher positive potential to the grid and also a positive voltage to the segment I want to illuminate.

I'm assuming that this makes current flow out of the filaments, past the grid, into the plates and out of the pins (to the positive supply rail).

So current flows from filament to the phosphors but what about the grid?

And these electrons originate from the filament's ground, travel to the positive end, but then some are "sucked" out of the filament on their way to complete the other circuit?

Do the filaments "see" this as more resistance? Like a leak in the pipe or something?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDX-lknj3IM

>>910087
If you really can't find the datasheet, you can try feeding the filaments from an adjustable power supply. Suitable voltage is where the filaments are slightly visible in dark.

General info about VFDs: https://www.noritake-elec.com/display/vfd_operation.html

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VFD's are quite simple, but also a bit different from other displays.

here i got the filament running on 5v by adding a 100Ω in series, look at the datasheet and applying ohms law.
for a segment to light, the segment AND the digit must be high, because they are really anodes and grids in a vacuum tube.

since the current is so low, you can pull all both grids and anodes high with 100kΩ resistors and pull them down with uln2803's
here i run those uln2803's from 2x 74595 shift registers.

this needs to be multiplexed of course.

>>910271
>for a segment to light, the segment AND the digit must be high
by high, i mean ~24v or higher, depending on the display

>>910271
>74595 shift registers.
I happen to have 6 of those babies handy. I've done stuff with LED segments and matrices. When you talk of using resistors on the filament, do you mean on the basis that I'm using a single power supply?

I have 2 adjustable ones (one with discrete voltages from 1.5 to 12v and a continuous one 0-30v). To keep things simple I'll use to separate PSUs for now.

How does using resistors "pull it high"? Not even sure what that means.

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pull-up_resistor

>an open collector buffer, simply outputs whatever it receives as input, but as an open collector device, the output is left effectively unconnected when outputting a "1". Pull-up resistor R2 thus pulls the output all the way up to 12 V when the buffer outputs a "1", providing enough voltage to turn the power MOSFET all the way on and actuate the relay.

How the actual hell does R2 magically transform 5V into 12? Makes absolutely no sense to me whatsoever. Why is the most trivial thing in electronics riddled with overcomplicated, seemingly contradictory shit like this? A resistor limits current according to every source I've seen.

Now they're performing magic tricks.

>>910334
Does the triangle sink the 12V at logic 0? Otherwise I can't see how it can vary at all. It's just a constant, unmodulated 12V source as far as I can see.

What's even the point of the triangle? If it just duplicates the voltage from one end at the other why even have it?

>>910327
>2 adjustable power supplies
nice to have for testing, but not something you are going to use for the clock or whatever you are building.

since you need a microcontroller to multiplex, and it most likely runs on 5 volts, i thought I'd drop the hint.
a simple 24v dc/dc made from a 34063 or the like can easily power the display. no external fet needed.
(you could go ttl/cmos logic if you are really hard-core thought)

presto, your vfd clock/whatever now runs of usb.

>>910334
>>910335
>>910338
>Doesn't know what open collector means.
imagine its has an npn transistor as output.
either it pulls to ground, or its not connecting.

meaning the gate of the fet is either pulled to ground by the open collector buffer, or pulled to 12v by the resistor

there won't be any 5v because the buffer only conducts to ground.
like a uln2003 or the like. they only pull down

>>910339
I think I'll just forget it. This is so ridiculously complicated for just lighting a bulb.

If I try this it will almost certainly go wrong and I'll probably burn every electrical item I own.

Why is coding like, 1,000,000,000,000 times easier than this? It just makes sense. It IS logic. You tell it what to do, it does it.

This is just bullshit.

In fact I might just burn it all for the sake of my mental health (and as a harsh life lesson: never try to realise ideas or better yourself because it WILL go wrong always).

>>910344
>Why is coding like, 1,000,000,000,000 times easier than this?
Because you've practiced it 1,000,000,000,000 times more?
>harsh life lesson: never try to realise ideas or better yourself because it WILL go wrong always
Or learn from your mistakes and don't screw up the next time the same way. Besides, components aren't THAT fragile. Not every mistake destroys them.
Either way, having a bitchfit won't help you.

>>910344
did you read my comment?
it was obviously addressing the displays, not the bulbs in the OP.
what is the problem exactly? you already got the bulb working.

>Why is coding like, 1,000,000,000,000 times easier than this? It just makes sense. It IS logic. You tell it what to do, it does it.
because code is just instructions for a processor, a processor so advanced you don't need to worry about the hardware's physical limitations at all.
electronics is applied physics, meaning you are constrained by reality.
i find electronics easier than coding 2bh, it's about experience i suppose.

>never try to realise ideas or better yourself because it WILL go wrong always
i wouldn't know any of the stuff i do now, and I'd probably live with my mom at age 26 with no career or prospects at all.
in fact, i broke 2 VFD displays before i ever got one 100% working.
but they are dirt cheap so no prob bob.

Not OP or ragekid, but I also have a few salvaged vfd's laying around and never really bothered to try and get them running...this might be a good weekend for that.