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any /diy/hards can help me fix my washing machine? fucking thing

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Thread replies: 36
Thread images: 4

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any /diy/hards can help me fix my washing machine? fucking thing doesn't go the the spin cycle and cuts of mid-wash. save me from the public hell that is the laundromat
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really going to need more info than that buddy. Does it make any noises, and does it spin at all during the soak period?
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Take it apart and look at it. Thats how you fix things.
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>>1234048
Try another part of the timer
like instead of permanent press, go to dark
The timer is sticking or contacts fucked up.
Mine doing the same thing, fuck if I'm going to spend 50 on a new timer switch, or get around to fixing the damn thing, just using another cycle for now
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>>1234048

jesus fuck man is that thing like 50 years old or something? just replace it.
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I can fix it easy....Craiglist for a used working one.
Fucking things are unfixable and short lived.
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>>1234067
Seconding this. People always ask me "how do you know how to fix everything?" My response is "i dont, i just go one step further than blankly staring at it"
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>>1234198
Pretty much all I do with cars, I google shit and if nothing comes up I look around for 3 hours troubleshooting shit. People consider me a mechanic, I barely even know how a 2 stroke works.
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>>1234048
Hand wash them
Take them down to the river
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>>1234198
>>1234204
Somehow it makes me feel better that I know jack shit about stuff.
I'm just afraid at doing stuff with cars and devices because I don't want to break them and then get shit on by father.
I really need to get away, I'm too sheltered.
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1) check spin switch. if it's stuck, blocked with gunk, or worn out, it won't allow spin cycle to run
2) that front load washer has a safety door interlock switch and lock mechanism. either one could be malfunctioning, jammed, or gunked up with muck.
3) transmission/clutch assembly that drives the whole thing. this is major repair work. not for amatures.
4) drive belt could be slipping, off pulley, or snapped.

good luck anon. these things are made like crap these days, and replacement parts are expensive. planned obsolescence you know. we have to keep our corporate overlords bonus plans up to date.
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>>1234702
Things used to be over engineered, they had excess durability, higher than rated, etc.
That's the major reason older stuff can last forever.

New shit is designed to have the bare minimum materials and strength to function for a statistically chosen lifetime.

i.e. If an old tool had a body/case made out of thick cast iron/steel, then the newest model is now made with stamped and painted low rated alloys or a "durable" plastic
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>>1234048
Take out the spinning selector. There are tracks on it that turn off certain cycles and activate other ones as it spins. The track that activates the cycle where it stops is fucked up. Get another one, or see if you can figure out how to get it to trigger again.
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>>1234048
Heres a step by step
1: open the machine
2: take the motor
3: hook it up
4: put clothes in vat
5: just stick the motor up your ass and buy a new wasing machine
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>>1234751
No retard the reson old shit is good is because nobody kept the shit stuff.
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ok so it doesn't go past where the arrow is to complete the cycle. It'll fill and drain water but the thing won't move
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Does it spin at all? If not, belt motor. Could also be timer switch or control board depending on how old it is.
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i took off the back paneling and no wires look burned or nothing. im just gonna ignore this its beyond me
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>>1235005
Nah bro, we need to see the components of the washer. Like the underside where the motor drives the basin. Why the hell would we need to see the wires? Do you have a rodent problem and wires? I dont understand why you'd show us this
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>>1234067
Yep. Or, if you're completely new to this, go buy yourself a cheap set of tools, THEN take it apart & look at it.

An old washer like that should be a breeze to get working again. Nothing to lose since it ain't working anyway.
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took off the back paneling. Belt seems to be intact I spun the load things a couple times by hand
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>>1234981

the most likely cause is the motor that advances the rotating knob is old and weak, and gives up when it meets too much resistance. if so, you probably need to replace the whole control knob coz the little motor is not likely replaceable.

alternately, if you had some skills, and could read wiring diagrams, and wire up switches, you could bypass the knob, and just control the wash cycle (or any cycle if you use enough switches) manually.
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That's an old maytag Neptune frontload washer... along with the Neptune topload it's the washer that fucked maytag up enough that whirlpool was able to buy them out...

If it fills, drains and doesn't spin then the first thing I'd be looking at is the door lock... they have a small wax motor piston that locks the door AND THEN is supposed to depress a microswitch that allows the motor to know the door is locked and frees it to spin.. if you post model number I'll log into whirlypools site and see if I can turn up the test sheet for those.. but honestly it's the first design attempt at a frontload residential washer and it's a fucking train wreck in my opinion. Been doing appliance repair for like 6 years and hated those for all 6 of them.... you may notice the timer doesn't turn continuously.. it advances to a section of the cycle which signals the board to run that part.... then the board turns the timer motor back on to advance to the next part.... because apparently just storing the cycle programming in software form on the board was to hard to work out so they cobbled that together....
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>>1235020
>>1235119
Alas not on this pos.
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>>1234785
That's part of it.. and to be fair that's the part people tend to forget... but go look at the average price of washers 30 years ago then adjust it for inflation... they do make them more cheaply these days but the appearance is that the price has stayed the same... meanwhile in things like sportscars the prices have gone up significantly because they can't cut the performance of those as much and get away with it.... ... got the "corvettes were 8 grand in the 70's" story about a million times from my dad...
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>>1235140
The first Mustang was around $2500.
I could just write a check anytime.
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>>1235213
Adjusted for inflation it'd be 19,800 ish today...
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>>1235216
True
You always need to adjust.
And I would have been making $0.50 an hour or something back in 1965.
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>>1235140
But even the residential stuff, inflation adjusted is crap. Commercial or industrial isn't as bad.

Ironically the simplest cheapest appliances these days are likely to be the longest lasting and easiest to repair. Things that are cheaper even when adjusted for inflation etc.
The appliances that are expensive with extra computerized options and wifi enabled toaster ovens that put the butter on your toast for you, that cost what a generic decent one would price adjusted, are likely to screw up much faster and not be repairable economically.

I think there are now 2 tiers of consumer goods. First, shit that is the basic, simplest, cheapest, that lasts longer because more frugal customers aren't going to buy a new washer every other year, meaning they are judged by durability, repair costs, and life time, and won't be bought by that target market unless they last long enough.
Second is the fancy overpriced shit that is bought by people who just need somewhere to spend their money. Those things are expensive to service, less durable because durability doesn't make it look nicer, so that it's cheaper to just throw it away than replace a part that costs 10x as much than on the similar economy model but isn't interchangeable due to some pointless difference.
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>>1235136
I do simple part swaps/adjustments for some when the problem is obvious, rather than charging for the call and telling them it's not plumbing related.
They might call for water near their fridge, ice maker, washing machine makes them think plumbing issue when it's often a leaky water valve,check valve or frozen over switch type thing. Most complicated one I've done, but still minor to you,when a washer drain was stopped up, but after we cleared it, water still showed up on floor again but no obvious leaks. Turned out the air tube that for water level selector was gunked up, tub over filled and as it started to agitate it splashed over. Just had to take tube off and wash the dog hair and detergent out.

SO, my question is: Despite note growing up with arduinos,rasp pi, or even simple SoCs, why and when did engineers lose the ability to use circuit/mechanical logic? There are PICs on devices from the 90s that have no need for anything more than an IC, TTL logic, or simple mechanical switches.
A water valve for a fridge icemaker with water dispenser, or standalone ice maker; normally 4 to 6 wires, a pair for each solenoid for dispense or ice maker, maybe a 3rd for master as extra safety. Normally simple mechanical switches with mechanical timers, and even if you have 90psi water going in, you'd just turn one screw to adjust.
Instead, I ran into an ice maker with something entirely pointless. If a standalone icemaker over fills, the excess just overflows the reservoir and drains down. In this one there was a metered valve that measured flow rate, time, calculated volume. A logic board on normally a $20 solenoid valve, making it $200. Then that had a 8+ pin harness going to some fuckall ridiculous board with several PICs or an ARM, (can't remember) that ran the thing for all of 3 buttons: on/off, ice size, and a button for the clean cycle.

And why does it take forever to convince a washer to fill enough to test a drain,no more water level switch, all sensors
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>>1235273
Some washers still have an analog pressure switch vs the solid state style that displays a frequency ( fuckall if I know why, but about 2/3rds of the machines I run into do this when testing for fill and then they tell you an acceptable frequency range for that machine.). If your on a frontload and want a ton of water try throwing it in the tub clean mode, let it fill then cancel the cycle. Also they fill slower now because they alternate cold and hot to shoot for a target temperature.. unlike in the old ones where it just turned both on for warm.. if your trying to fill a topload and have access to the back just turn the hose off, disconnect it then put it in the tub and turn the water on... replace it then turn on drain and spin mode on the washer.. probably faster than waiting... most new washers though are very low water use.. for better or mostly worst we're stuck with it... I will say though if you think about a subdivision with a hundred houses each with their own washer then the amount of overall water saved is pretty big in the long run.. 3~5 gallons a cycle on the new ones vs 20+ on the old ones.... as to the switch from older logic circuits to computer controls.. no clue when that all switched.. I've only been doing this for 6 years and I suspect that switch came in the late 90's... in some cases it's nice.. their are a couple models with fantastic tech modes and surprisingly elegant designs that work well.. but their are plenty that suck balls hard....
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>>1235280
Kinda funny that my normal stuff is your weird call.. I get the opposite problem... customer installs drain hose all the way down to the trap in the pipe and by some miracle of odd modern plumbing when the washer drains out the wash it starts a siphon that proceeds to draw out the rinse water as it comes in... after 5 minutes without hitting full water level the machine throws a long fill code and shuts down without spinning out... you can test a lot of good parts if you don't think to look in the drain... wish I had a picture of it but last week was out on an undercounter ice maker with just a gravity style drain that some idiot installer ran to a drain pipe with a trap that was 6 inches ABOVE the level of the ice maker... they couldn't figure out why it overflowed when they turned it on...
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>>1235281
Some of those stupid fill valves come about through attempts to standardize parts... some of them they want to keep track of how much water has gone through the machine so it can prompt cleaning cycles or filter changes... on a fridge with a dispenser a few use a flow meter to control the measured fill.. and it's easier to reuse that valve in a new design that might not need all the features of it than it is to redesign a new valve... also there are just a lot of stupid engineers who get caught up in their own cleverness I think and end up over complicating things.... if you want a bombproof washer though buy a speedqueen.. worth every penny... pair it with the cheapest gas dryer with a mechanical timer that you can find..
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>>1235232
My gramps did appliance repair for Philco after ww2... his total cost to a customer is generally less than 1/4 of my parts cost on similar repairs...
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>>1235273
Fwiw I think the next smart step with all the tech would be to make it all communicate with itself through Bluetooth... run a power, neutral, and ground to everything then the ice maker, dispenser controls, valve, and main board all link wirelessly using the metal cabinet as a cage to keep the interference down... then for the love of god release an app for your service techs that lets me log in to each component and read the sensor outputs and cycle the loads... it would save me so much time it's sickening... but it's convenient and smart so we will likely never see it...


Also somewhere I saw an arduino design where a guy put a barcode scanner on a microwave and it would scan the package of whatever you wanted to heat and then look up the proper time and temp settings from an online database... and that's a pretty good idea too.. especially for elderly people or kids or disabled folks.. but again it was just some guy screwing around so that's probably not gonna go anywhere
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>>1235266
Their used to be simple cheap stuff that lasted.. now it's all pretty bad unless you baby it at the moment....
Thread posts: 36
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