I have a shower corner that has been causing a lot of proble

Weigh down tub with 80kg or so. Apply silicone, let it set. Or buy the shower tub strip.

>>1227563
make the layer thicker by injecting it deep into the gap

GE Silicone II for kitchen & bath works for at least 5 years for me and stays flexible

Make sure you clean the area well ( scrape everything off & use acetone before application )

>>1227565
Wont it rip it once i take off the 80 kg?

>>1227563
Silicone doesn't just come apart for a laugh and a giggle to annoy you, there is a problem causing it to happen.
The tray is not stable or secure enough, when you stand on it it moves, repeated movement causes stress on the silicone, pulling it apart.
You need to lift the tray and see how it has been installed, probably dreadfully, and install it properly so it doesn't move. It should be solid.

If you are looking for better silicone then forget it, if you are going to bodge it then use duck tape

Oh! Im not OP but fuck, thanks you genius bastards.

>>1227600
Yeah... The whole corner is a mess which should not fit a shower anyways. But it's a small 30 square m apartment so there is not other place also really.

The whole thing stands on a thick waterproof plywood which is covered with some blue water resistant gum. On top of it the white shower corner is stranded. The guy who put it there tough put some shit under the stands of it that are soft so imagine that is what makes it move.

I am really thinking now if to
a) push one year more by just applying new silicone
b) tear the shit down and start anew my self
c) hire someone to do it properly which obviously will cost a shit ton.

3M 5200 is how I'd bodge it. RTV is feeble shit.

5200 is through-hull marine adhesive sealant and the reason I don't use RTV much except for shit I want to peel off later.

seems to me that the shower tray is INSIDE the shower walls. shouldn't be like that. the walls (with tiles) should overlap the edge of the tray so water falls *into* the tray and down the drain. real fix involves securing the tray down solid. then tear out walls and re-install walls so the bottom of walls are inside that lip on the edges of the tray... will do a quick drawing to show what I mean...

File: shower tray.jpg (35KB, 971x325px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1227704
essentially you will need to move the walls in a bit to get the tile layer inside the tray.

I guess other 'fix' might be to add a "kick" angle at the bottom of the wall to 'kick' the water into the tray... this isn't the 'normal' way to fix this but it might save tearing out the entire wall(s) - would just need to tear up the bottom few inches.

File: kick piece.jpg (42KB, 948x632px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1227710
"kick" piece idea

of course there is no pre made "kick piece" available to buy. you will need to figure something out to make it yourself... need some sort of waterproof material you can cut into the shape (profile) needed. some sort of PVC or composite (plastic wood) material comes to mind - that might work. and of course caulk and seal that piece real good when you put it in.

>>1227714
be easier just gluing on a rim of plastic strip..? - like a strip of shower curtain (better heavier tho) top is glued to tile, bottom is overhanging the lip of shower tray - simpler bodge than cutting bits to shape then having to seal that, as whole thing needs redone anyway, by the looks, you wanted to do it properly. Cool dioagrams tho, repsct :)

>>1227710
Thank you. Will have something to think about now. Not sure yet what path to take.

>>1227714
Not OP, but I like this. I would use composite material moulding that they sell at HD for like $.36/ft. I believe that to be waterproof, when you cut it with a miter saw it melts into plastic mess all over you.

>>1227710
this...anything else wont work

File: 617IqovbhfL._SL1000_.jpg (64KB, 1000x1000px) Image search: [Google]

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https://www.amazon.com/EasyCaulk-Bathtub-Shower-Vanity-Caulk/dp/B004TS28QI

i hate this stuff, but it seems like it might work for your situation

>>1227797
>Easy Caulk Products will adhere to *any* surface *except* old silicone..
- fuckin pottery. How shit is this stuff? got a bathtub on an old wooden (beam) floor, this maybe easier fix than stopping that moving.

File: sika-sikaflex-505uv-gray-600ml-sausage_431x431.jpg (13KB, 431x431px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1227563
Sikaflex 1 part polyurethane sealant and be done with it.. Clean all the old silicone off with some stanley knife blades, wipe all the area over with some kind of cleaning alcohol, wait til its dry and apply the same way you would use Silicone sealant.. This shit they use to bridge gaps in concrete panels, roadways etc so its not going to be bothered by a little bit of thermal expansion in the wet area.

>>1228055
also, its a motherfucker to clean up especially off your skin.. have a fair bit of mineral turps and rags at hand.

>>1227563
Urethane my nigga.

File: Henry.jpg (10KB, 131x236px) Image search: [Google]

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Since I seriously doubt you'll pull tile, move drain and install correctly I'd suggest fillin the gap with epoxy or this shit. I use it for sealing various tings on roofs. It was shitcan on you like silicone will

>>1227710

Here's your answer OP. The tile and backer board were not installed properly. This is the same principle as flashings on a roof or anywhere that has to shed water, overlapping materials. That diagram is how the tile should have been done, sometimes if the flange on the shower pan is tall and thin enough the backer board overlaps as well as the tile.

Any else you use that covers a seam will only be as waterproof as that caulk/sealant/glue is when applied perfectly. If the tile was installed correctly over the flange of the shower pan like that diagram, the overlap would be as waterproof as the tile and require water to travel uphill and behind the tile to leak.

>>1227758
>when you cut it with a miter saw it melts into plastic mess all over you.
funny. it doesn't do that for me.

Anons are correct, the pan is installed wrong. One way to fix this would be to tile over the tile that's already there. It won't look like you tried to fix a fuckup with a shit ton of caulk, it'll work, the only issue would be the extra weight. I've seen this done several times and it has yet to cause any issues from being to heavy.

You could maybe use something like great stuff expanding foam crack filler first, making sure you don't let it come up right to the top. If you do it right, it will harden and minimize movement between the bathtub and wall. Then you could apply a good layer of silicone on top, as you had before. Should take a lot of stress off the silicone, making it last longer.

>>1227710
this guy is right. your basin is installed incorrectly, and you will need to fix it per this pic.

Wood should be replaced with cement board. It's the only way to effectively minimize the "give" that is causing the problem. Next, see if a solid shower pan replacement or fill the underside of the pan you have with something to make it solid, like Bondo or even concrete (pretend your making a casting).

The other way is to build out the walls 1/4 inch and cover with a solid wall system, that finishes inside the lip of the shower pan edge. Install and seal with RTV silicone, done.