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I've built a Rangemaster clone. Upon connecting it to power,

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Thread replies: 24
Thread images: 7

File: Rangemaster.jpg (104KB, 840x590px) Image search: [Google]
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I've built a Rangemaster clone. Upon connecting it to power, the pedal works, but the battery begins to get extremely hot within a minute or so of operation.

My best guess as to what the issue is would be the diode going straight to ground (I've been told this is generally good practice to avoid switch pops) and the capacitor going straight to ground (it's my understanding that I could reduce hum like this). The only thing that varies from the schematic is that the AC128 has been replaced with an A92.

Is the diode and/or capacitor the reason the battery is getting too hot? If not, what's causing it?
>>
>>1222141
I would try to determine the maximum continuous discharge current determined by the battery manufacturer and then cross reference it with your discharge C or E rating.

Yay math!
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>>1222141
I really hope you meant +9V not -9V.
D2 might be reversed. It can be omitted if you promise to never reverse the battery.
Q1 might be mis-connected. Different type numbers may have different pinouts. Check datasheets and ensure yours is correct.
Otherwise, start taking voltage measurements around the circuit and note them on the schematic so you have something to ponder while the battery cools down.
>>
>>1222141
this exact thing has happened to me on a pedal build before
a reversed diode to ground was the culprit

>results may vary
>>
>>1222159
I meant -9V. Ground is relative and the circuit won't work with a positive voltage.

The battery connector only fits one way, so I think I can live without D2. Q1 is in right.

>>1222171
Something tells me you're right. I'll try yanking the diode and see what happens when I get home.
>>
>>1222141
>Is the diode and/or capacitor
capacitors are high pass, they block dc and allow ac to pass. powering from a battery the cap will charge up quickly on power up but won't pass much current after that. its purpose is to smooth out voltage spikes from probably Q1 switching on and off or something.
D2 is completely fucked.
You have to get this idea of ground out of your head, voltage is a potential difference, ground is only where you define it to be. spice simulators 'need' a ground only so they know where to start.

conventional current flows from a high potential to a low potential, typically this is from say +9v to 0v. conventionally you would say 0v was ground and bingo you have current flowing from +9v to gnd.

except you aren't having +9v, you are having -9v. so what is ground? 0v still. so remember current flows from + to -. 0v is actually higher voltage than -9v so current is flowing FROM gnd TO -9V. if you look at D2 its allowing pretty much a dead short between gnd and -9v.
if you have a multimeter you probably shouldn't even try to measure the current because it will be massive. no wonder your battery is getting hot!

also D1 cannot possibly light in this configuration and probably all the other components are fucked too, electrolytic caps will probably be reverse biased and be very unhappy.
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>>1222194
oh yeah and R5 is doing exactly nothing.
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>>1222179
>the circuit won't work with a positive voltage.
It won't work at all the way you have it.
R5 is not connected to anything.
Connect R5 to the power rail and reverse the battery polarity and it will work.
>>
File: rangemasterschematic.gif (4KB, 292x191px) Image search: [Google]
rangemasterschematic.gif
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>>1222197
Also: the reason the original rangemaster had + ground was the way the schematic was drawn.
You've flipped the schematic vertically but didn't flip the battery with it.
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File: rangemasterschematic flipped.gif (4KB, 360x263px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1222203
>flipped the schematic vertically
>>
>>1222195
>>1222197
R5 not being connected is a fuckup on my part that I can't believe I missed. It's actually connected on the strip board.

I realized that ground is a difference in potential but didn't consider the implication of negative ground in the original circuit. That explains everything completely; thank all of you guys for dealing with me being retarded.
>>
>>1222237
>negative ground
this doesn't mean anything i hope a day comes when people stop using it.
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>>1222241
I hope the day comes when you quit obsessing over it.
>>
>>1222241
>>negative ground
>this doesn't mean anything i hope a day comes when people stop using it.

As long as everyone follows the same convention it's perfectly normal to have positive ground, negative ground, ground that is at 5 volts with respect to negative ground, you name it.

How else are you going to use older parts like a 741? Too many young engineers have never used anything but a single supply device and don't have experience shifting ground and working with multiple ground planes.
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>>1222421
you have +,-,0v
'ground' has nothing to do with it and even if it did because you call 0v ground, 'positive ground' and 'negative ground' are absolutely meaningless, by definition ground is 0v, it is neither + or -.
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>>1222443
>by definition ground is 0v, it is neither + or -.
I'm having a nice cup of coffee right now.
It's made from ground beans.
>>
>>1222443
>In electrical engineering, ground or earth is the reference point in an electrical circuit from which voltages are measured, a common return path for electric current, or a direct physical connection to the Earth. Electrical circuits may be connected to ground (earth) for several reasons.

>It has negative ground.
The input and output of the device have a common point which is connected to the negative source of power for the device.

>It has positive ground.
The input and the output of the device have a common point which is connected to the positive source of power for the device.

It's just a way of informing which polarity the supply rail is connected.

>hot water heater
>hot water heater
>hot water heater
>>
>>1222443
>by definition ground is 0v, it is neither + or -
You can set ground to 14.82V for all that matters. It's just set to 0V because it's easy.

>'positive ground' and 'negative ground' are absolutely meaningless
No, they tell you which way electrons are coming out the power source relative to ground.
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>>1222489
>negative source of power
>positive source of power
no, this is your reference. the other end is positive or negative wrt ground. that is the point.

>>1222498
>You can set ground to 14.82V
no you can't, it is 0v, other voltages are measured wrt ground.

if you have a centre tap supply and take ground ref as center you don't have 0v, (e.g.) 5v ground and 10v, you have gnd, -5v +5v.

ground is the reference for which other potential differences are measured.

trying to pretend it describes ground as a drain or source of electrons is even more retarded.
>>
>>1222141
C3 : not a problem
D2 : reverse biased so it's not conducting, i assume it is reverse voltage protection but it seems a little redundant when you could just put a diode in series with the power supply... unless they really need every millivolt from that battery but it's a fucking pedal not a peice of precision lab equipment so WTF, anyway, it's fine i guess.

OH SHIT WAIT it's fucking negative supply so the diode is forward biased WELL DER'S YOUR PROBLEM :D
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>>1223066
Rant on mang. No one gives a fuck about you or the 'technical' aspect.
>>
File: CrDFIRwW8AABAKc[1].jpg (16KB, 480x362px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1223066
>>1222443

Shh, it's not worth it, anon.

Let the tradies have their slang. I stopped getting irked, at long time ago, at HVAC guys and electricians calling literally anything with magnet wire in it "coils", regardless of what it actually was. You should do the same, and experience tranquility.
>>
>>1223428
>You should do the same, and experience tranquility.
>>
>>1223428
>magnet wire
just using that name is stupid.
its copper with lacquer on it.
Thread posts: 24
Thread images: 7


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