r8 my soldering job boys. i'd give it a solid 3, considering

>>1211948

if it works, then you're a hero, otherwise you're a zero. that's the most important criteria for judging. functionally, every time you have a ball of solder (like around r1,r2,r3) that's bad news, coz it might mean a cold solder joint. it means not enough heat, or needing extra flux.

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>>1211948

You actually did this your first time?

I believe the balls that the other poster mentioned, and that's not bad for a first try, but I'm not sure I could do pic related and I've been soldering for a long time.

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>>1211950
It actually works! I haven't seen this clock on in ten years or so

>>1211951
Oh no, that wasn't me. I just did those nasty blobs around the 5 big resistors

>>1211960
Given the way those solder joints are balled up, you're only making incidental contact in a few places. The resistors never got hot enough for the solder to flow into a solid joint.

>>1211965
Does that mean I'm screwed? Is it gonna stop working again down the road?

>>1211968
>Is it gonna stop working again down the road?

In a low-current joint (such as what you have here), that's usually what happens, yeah.

>>1211959
>same dash as my 06 corolla
>same problem with clock
You've inspired me. How difficult was it to remove? Does it just pry out?

>>1211975
There's a couple trim pieces you have to pull but they literally just come out by hand. After that you can push the clock out and that's about it. There's a bunch of videos on YouTube about how to do it. Apparently it's a pretty common problem because they used a paper thin layer of solder on the resistors. Worth fixing desu

>>1211971
>>1211948

Yes it will fail. The solder should flow, not ball up. Place the iron at the junction of the part and the copper on the board. Reheat until the solder remelts and flows. You may wish to use some additional flux. Do not use plumbing flux, it has acid and will corrode the crap out of everything.

>>1211948
Jesus...

>>1211951
>I'm not sure I could do pic related and I've been soldering for a long time.
With hot air, anything is possible.

>>1212013
see
>>1211959

>>1212088
Check in this time next year, won't you.

>>1211948
If that's your first time soldering, and you did SMD, and it works, you've done well.

But fuck me, keep practicing.

>>1212097
That bad huh?

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Get one of these, they work pretty good and heat up almost instantly.

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>>1212751
Also one of these.

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>>1212759
Or these. Best if you can find the synthetic kind, which is translucent white.

>>1212747
Really, use flux
>>1212759
>>1212761
reheat the joint, and it will look and hold great.

>>1212067
>With hot air, anything is possible.
Including torching the FR4. This is an iron job.

>>1212759
>>1212761
Flux pens: useful.
flux-core: even more useful.
Ideal: use both.

>>1211948
Bit too much solder
Too cold or you applied solder to the iron and not the pad.
Possibly contaminants or no flux
But not bad for a first shot.

Surface mount can be a real bitch without something to help hold the part. You might want to cobble up a coathanger in a block of wood. (not joking here). I bodged one up to help keep pressure on components when soldering. Just use a book to hold the block down and the wire applies pressure to the component without getting in the way. It also acts as a bit of a heatsink so the other side doesn't get too hot.
Lots of good advice out there. This isn't too bad.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Solder-Basic-Soldering-Guide/
Google "High reliability soldering" for fun. That's the stuff I used to do back in my first job.

>>1211948
You really need liquid solder flux working with SMDs, and especially if you're using lead-free solder.

>>1211948
Needs more flux and heat. Those balls will disconnect.

Somewhat related:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uiroWBkdFY
You see how they are slow enough to allow solder to fully melt, flow and wet the pad and pin. Keep in mind, if there is not enough flux or it is bad (evaporates too easy), things wont flow as smoothly and get dirty with oxides and messy.