Trying to get the old car running. Rebuilt the carb and now it

more than likely need to tune carb but it could be any number of things causing it to not idle.. from shit old fuel to an air leak. first step is checking what you have done

check nothing you have done is leaking/sucking air

find a workshop manual and have a go tuning it. most will have at least a screw for air/fuel ratio and another for idle speed

and try repair the radiator, just keep an eye out and make sure it doesn't start leaking

worst case you catch it as it starts leaking and take it back out to pay someone to fix it

they're usually a pretty simple job

>>1211902
i just reread and noticed i assumed it was running before..

still, check what you have done first i guess.

Tune your carb, most of the time you can get away with maxing out the idle speed and seeing if that does anything, if not theres probably a crack somewhere. Also ask yourself long and hard, is this car worth fixing?

File: yfa_carb.jpg (2MB, 2848x2134px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1211910
>if not theres probably a crack somewhere.

Or it's leaking around the throttle shaft which can cause idle or bog problems, and can't really be fixed easily except by buying another carb.

I'd check for chinese copies on Ebay. I put pic related in my old truck and solved carb issues that rebuilt carbs never seemed to solve. $100 for brand new vs. $300 for "rebuilt" crap.

viva china.

>>1211915
Sounds like your the guy to talk to about this, I just fuck about with 2 strokes and do the odd repair (read changing old shit for new shit) on my car.

>>1211918
>do the odd repair (read changing old shit for new shit) on my car.

lol that's about all I know. Someone else will probably chime in, maybe someone who has dealt with that specific carb.

I did repair a leaky old radiator once. The seam across the top was split for about 4 inches. I used a ton of plumbing solder and a propane torch on it and years later it's still holding up. If the crack is brass on brass you should be able to solder it. I'd go look for a youtube video to be sure, but I think I just polished it up with a wire wheel on a drill and then used ordinary plumber flux and solder.

It's helpful if you can rig up a way to pressurize the radiator to test for leaks without having to put it on the car and run the engine. Just be careful to not blow it up since they only run about 15 psi or so. Since the pressure is so low you can fabricate adapters out of wood and whatnot like I did.

>>1211918
Sounds like youre more qualified to fix engines then 99% of mechanics

>>1211890
-Did you remove and clean all the jets and blow out all the passages with compressed air?
-Did you do all the pre-adjustments listed in the manual for that model carb (float level, choke to airhorn distance, presets for fast idle / mixture?
-Does the choke break function properly? (should pull in as soon as the engine starts running)
-Have you checked / replaced all the rubber vacuum hoses?
-Have you changed the fuel filter?
-Is the gasoline new? (Obama gas goes bad as quickly as 3 months sometimes)

For the radiator: If it's copper and brass, it's worth keeping for sure, let a professional disassemble, rod it out, and repair and pressure test it.

>>1212011
It was recently rebuilt by a very good carb shop. I called him up and we decided I'm missing the choke actuator, Jesus Christ I'm dumb. Also the screws on the bottom are supposed to be out 1.5 turns and he said that was the spec for real gas, todays gas needs 4 turns.

>>1212011
The radiator is unused and has been sitting dry in the car for 15 years. It should be tip top, I don't know why it cracked, it didn't even have a drain plug in ever it so it couldn't have had fluid in it.

Can I just solder it like when I replaced my water heater?

>>1211890
Get ot warmed up good. If it has these square holes fill them with gas. Fire it up and of ot idles a bit then it is likely a problem with shotty old gas line. Be sure u clean that little inlet screen going into the carb. Put a new cheao clear inline filter in it. Put new rubber fuel line on it.

Likely has shit in the tank.

Might try tsking the fuel line off and shoving an air hose in it. Should blow all the shit back in the tank and run if u let it settle.

Save yourself my hell and run new lines, pump and tank or fuel cell.

>>1212057
I have used the high pressure, waterproof jb weld to fix a radiator crack before. It worked. Cost about $5 a tube.

Stuffs magic but I would only use it short term.

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I soldered it. Hopefully it holds.

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>>1212585

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>>1213243

That is fair but the black shit over at the right looks troubling.

I'm no expert so listen to others, but in my pic-related, if that line is the crack, then if you acquired a small piece of sheet brass the shape of the red outline, and tinned one side, then laid it down and made sure that the solder flowed under all four sides, you would be turning a weak butt joint into a stronger lap joint. If the two surfaces were flat enough then the solder would wick like when sweating copper plumbing, but the gap has to be pretty tight for that to work.

Listen to people with more experience before you try this.

>>1213245
i remelted it and got some of the low spots out. the pool of soldier I think kept seeping through the crack. I had to be carefull where I was putting the heat down so I could add more soldier without it getting everything too hot.

Try the idle air control valve...

>>1213332
It's fine and will probably last a long time.
A torch is OK but for a crack like this I have a 100W soldering iron with a huge tip.
It allows me to keep the heat localized except for the heat transferred through the metal conduction.
On a crack, when you use a torch one side of the crack may heat more than the other causing slight warping relative to each other.
This makes the crack a little wider and allows the solder to fall through.
I check the crack carefully before applying the soldering iron and if one side is already a bit higher than the other I gently tap it down.
If one side is obviously lower than it should be from mechanical damage I use a thin blade I made into a hook to lift it back up.
This usually raised the other side some to so I then tap it back down to the normal level so the sides match as closely as possible.
Apply the flux, then the iron and solder next to the iron.
Once the solder starts melting just move the iron and solder to cover the crack.

For soldering the tanks I use a torch because of the amount of metal that has to all be heated pretty much at once.

Looks like you're doing great

Meh, maybe not so great.

I put the rad back in and started filling with tap water and it immediately started leaking. I suppose I'll bring it in for repair.

I ran the numbers on this sum bitch, it's a '74 engine with an amazingly shitty 7.8 to one compression ration which is good for a solid 155 hp when it was new in tip top shape...
I'm considering a 4.8/5.3 swap. A different rad would be required of course.