hey /diy/ I would like to make a tabletop from OSB. idealy

>>1210543
piece of glass or polycarbonate

>>1210544

I think I would really appreciate if the edges were one piece.
I imagine putting a piece of glass on top would probably be pretty visible due to the varying height of the OSB

>>1210581
you are asking for magic, for what you are trying to achieve, there is only so many ways to create the effect other than epoxy it

>>1210582

I'm actually not opposed to epoxy and was just looking for alternatives.

but maybe it's epoxy

Why not just use Melamine? Or do you want to see the OSB for some reason?
Only other thing I can think of is is a plastic layer then shrink around the edges

>>1210543
why not just make the table out of paper? i mean why the fuck not?

>>1210543
Not many. Clear epoxy resin is high but smal amounts can be had at hobby lobby. Get a heat gun and toothpick. Gently warm up air bubbles so they rise to the top and then get them with the toothpick.

Larger areas may need a few hands.

Alternatively get a firmica counter lamitate and glue from your local hardware store. Be sure and sand it kinda smooth. Osb will never be perfect but a good da sander and some 60 or 89 grit will make short work of it.

Alternatively you can get actual plywood and stain and varnish it with a few coats and wet sand. This may be cheaper than doctoring up that osb

>>1210581
Maybe but if u sand it with 80 grit and a da sander, hit it with an air hose, you'll never notice. Glass is expensive tho. And plexi isnt much better

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>>1210543
Only way I could see of doing it would be to wrap masking tape around the entire perimeter of the board so it sits a few millimeters higher than the edge (you're effectively turning the board into a very shallow tray with temporary masking tape walls) then laying on your sealer REAL thick, as in, thick enough to flow and self level; we're talking a good millimeter or so of depth. Idea is that it should dry flat and thick enough that a quick sand with a block and some light grit paper should give you a perfectly flat surface, with maybe a final coat of seal to return the surface to smooth and shiny. The edges might be a bit gnarly after you've removed the tape, you might need to chamfer the edges a little with a sanding block to clean them up. You could go full retard and use a plastic resin. Much harder to work evenly onto the surface I'd imagine, but it will be as strong as you could ask for. Once the tape is off I would also hit the edges with at least three layers to prevent them from fraying and to unify the edges with the surface finish.

Pic related (or your regional equivalent) comes to mind for your sealant, its quite viscous and very hardy, I apply four roller coats of this to all my MDF bench surfaces and it hold its shit together quite well under light metal and woodwork. Maybe two "tray" layers of this would do the job, or, if you have a week or two, 5 or 6 layers rolled on. Be sure to allow a full 24 hours between coats. Again, sand smooth with a light grit before your final coat to get a nice smooth surface.

>>1210624

Glass is a hell of a lot cheaper than two component acrylic or epoxy resin.

>>1210625

> laying on your sealer REAL thick, as in, thick enough to flow and self level; we're talking a good millimeter or so of depth.

Then after three months when you think it finally dried enough to sand, you hit liquid paint after a couple of seconds.

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>>1210543

I honestly wouldn't recommend doing this. I tried it with my desk, and there's just no way of making OSB not look shitty. Short of covering it with something else, anyway.

If you insist on trying, I would suggest tabletop epoxy. Anything else is going to take a long time and many coats to fill the deeper grooves between chips.


Might wanna check local laws, first. In some jurisdictions, I think it's a criminal offense to waste epoxy that way.

>>1210744
>there's just no way of making OSB not look shitty

Which means that there's probably a market for OSB shit once the hipsters take a liking to it.

It's actually a nice building product as long as you follow the directions. For some reason it seems a bit funny to me that OSB means oriented strand board which means that it's a bit stronger in the direction that the majority of the pieces of shit are lined up.

>>1210734

This doesn't work. The shrinkage that occurs as whatever solvent/inhibitor keeps it liquid evaporates causes severe rippling/warpage in the finish, possibly resulting in deeper grooving than when you started. Nevermind the absurd drying time. Epoxies are the only way to go in terms of pour-on finishes.

Trust me, I've tried it.

>This thread
>Using OSB
>For a table
OSB isn't capable of bearing loads. And that's just as ugly as using wood from reclaimed palettes & skids.

If you're going to make a table, you're going to have to use a material that can take good weight. OSB & MDF is shit for suck a thing; use plywood AT LEAST.

>>1210543
>I would like to make a tabletop from OSB.
no
don't

>>1210971

This. OSB can only take load in one direction, usually tension/compression along the length. It cannot hold load on the face. it will literally sag under its own weight within a day or two.

>>1210971
>>1210976
>>1210993
Very much this. You have to put a frame under it or it will go U shaped on you.

>>1210993
>>1210971

>>1210744 here. Still using that desk, several years later. Hasn't sagged at all, can sit my whole weight (~180lbs) in the middle without it getting rekt. Not sure I'd trust it with much more than that and I don't doubt that plywood would be stronger, but still. Mechanically, it's fine for a desk.

>>1210543
Put several coats of Varathane on it

>>1211004
Did you at least put a 2x4 cross bar across the middle of the entire length of that table? That would definitely reinforce it. Otherwise, you've done the worst thing because that thing won't take anymore than 250 lbs without splitting.

Or you could try standing on top of it with all 180 lbs of your weight dead centre, while changing a light bulb.

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>>1211010

There's a 2x6 at the back, of course. I wouldn't expect ANY 3/4" slab of wood to hold up to abuse just set across a 50" span. I was a little worried about the un-supported front edge (since any bracing would interfere with comfy leg placement), but it's held up admirably.

>>1210971
A common use for OSB is sub-flooring in homes.

>>1210744
>I honestly wouldn't recommend doing this. I tried it with my desk, and there's just no way of making OSB not look shitty. Short of covering it with something else, anyway.
And then it will just *be* shitty, hidden in its equally shitty tomb, slowly and permanently sagging.

>>1211020
>A common use for OSB is sub-flooring in homes.
Only when, for god knows what reason, the mcmansion builder couldn't afford CD plywood.

>>1210543
Our tables in our break room are made out of polyurethaned osb. They don't look half bad. Also used to work with a guy who did his whole shop in different stained pieces. If you're worried about dips or holes in it but a higher grade sanded board. Will take pics if the tables in the morning.

Work at the biggest weyerhaeuser mill in the US ama

>>1211022
OSB sub-floor is often preferred over plywood as it's designed to withstand elements better than plywood.
>b-but it's just flakes of wood how can it be good?!
Engineering. Crazy isn't it?

>>1211020
>>1211022
>>1211028
Actually, OSB for use in sub-flooring only works if there's existing flooring. The standard, however, is to use CD plywood, typically pine.

The strength of it is because of the randomness of the wood flakes being layered as they are, but it's still much weaker than plywood & still isn't capable of supporting weight without any underlying structure to support the OSB plank. That's why it's used on sub-flooring where there's an existing floor or well-spaced floor joists, or can be used on ceilings & other areas that bear no structural weight.

>>1211015
You did the smart thing with 2x6 braces, buddy.

Plywood can hold up to abuse like that across a 50" span at 3/4" thickness, with OSB being a close second, then MDF being the weakest.

>>1210993
I put 5 layers of 1/2" OSB as my workbench top. 2x4 outer frame, nothing in the middle. Works fine.

>>1211041
>2.5" thickness
>Reinforcing outer frame
Sure beats using a single 0.75" plank with nothing but 4 legs.

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>>1211039
>OSB for use in sub-flooring only works if there's existing flooring
Wrong again. In fact the opposite is true. A 3/8 plywood substrate is often added over the OSB (or plywood) sub-floor to accommodate tile installation, but not the other way around.
First year Carpenters apprentice?

>>1211039
I've never seen anyone put osb down over top of existing flooring what would be the point? Maybe if you were using 7/16 or 1/2. I just got done building my house with a double layer of 23/32 glued and screwed over 16 oc joists and it's solid. The flooring grade is marked and tested for 16, 19.2, and 24 oc. If you're running into problems your either doing it wrong or using the wrong thickness board.

>>1211041
remembering that on /diy/, 'works fine' usually means 'isn't currently on fire'.

>>1210543
miles?

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>>1211199
fukken saved

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>>1211458

i fuken saved your fuken save.

>>1211464
did you roll for save?
>note carefully trimmed 468x60 image size

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>>1211466
>did you roll for save?
>>note carefully trimmed 468x60 image size

I'm lost.

Is there a place on GIMP where I can ask it add a shot of black?

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>>1211476
yes but not on a blue board

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>>1211491

oh fuck green aples.

i love gren aples.

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>>1211493

shit. wrong pic lol. here is green apples

this is after he puked them.

lol hat

t.shot

>>1210543

As others have said, OSB is great for attics. It's also good for shed walls if you're not going to have anything on them. But for table tops, there are better options in the same price range. Just go to your local Lowes/HD and see what I'm talking about