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hey /diy! I'm looking for a simple/effective way to make

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File: office.png (13KB, 941x760px)
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hey /diy!

I'm looking for a simple/effective way to make use of the space in pic related.

I just moved and have 2 more servers that go into that rack. It averages at about 80 - 85 degress (sunny FL days).

I'd like some input on how to organize my area, pic related shows the walls existing in black and the proposed area I'd build to dampen server noise, and push heat exhaust out the sliding door opening with the sliding door locking into the wall for security. A/C drain and power will come out of there.

I have an electrician coming to hook up a pair of dedicated circuits as I have a generator in the garage I'd like to fail over to. Currently the room is on a single 15 Amp circuit. May upgrade it to 20Amp too.

I'll attach other pics in the thread.

Questions:
1. Ideas?
2. Can I plug a 20 Amp breaker into an 15 AMP breaker on a less-than-10 year old building or do I still need to get an electrician to test wire load?
3. Outside the sliding door on the right is my A/C condenser on a dedicated circuit. Could I hook my sinewave UPS into that circuit to minimize costs on 2 dedicated circuits?

The rack will likely be here for about a year.


Thanks!
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I propose a vent on what I assume is a hallway,
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Here is where I think you should put a vent. Also try investing on a smaller desk
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>>1209769
>Ideas?
Remote Desktop, its a thing dude - and put that awful fucking monstrosity in the garage, where it belongs. if it was for sound equipment, ok you maybe need rack access, for servers you donut, get shot.
>plug a 20 Amp breaker into an 15 AMP breaker
not making sense, the 15A is gona trip before the 20A, the 20A is, in this scenario, useless. You got a 15A breaker, on a 15A circuit, you can plug in whatever you like - but exceed 15A draw, that circuit breaker is gonna trip. Maybe not understanding what you mean
>sinewave UPS
beyond my paygrade, but. again, if it exceeds the draw, its not gonna work. If this is sposed run perm on the UPS, then autoswitch to generator, you goona need to account for everything on that circuit in the generator load, figure you can maybe do without the AC for an hour or so, hsalf the gen
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>>1209935
rest post fuck up, but basically, IMO that rooms too small for that rack, Id throw in garage and remote if poss, or use one of the existing cupboards and vent - you can install rails, and ditch the rack, doubt you need double that size - fug are you doing anyway?
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>>1209769
>>>1209769
>>Ideas?
>Remote Desktop, its a thing dude - and put that awful fucking monstrosity in the garage, where it belongs.

Is it? Who knew.

I live in Florida. I have a standing AC unit, but I worry about Florida heat in general. How would I vent the AC?


>>plug a 20 Amp breaker into an 15 AMP breaker
>not making sense, the 15A is gona trip before the 20A, the 20A... ...Maybe not understanding what you mean

I was told that most new building wire is standard to support up to a 20 Amps and I can put a 20 amp breaker on it and be done. But I don't know if that's smart. I am waiting on a call from a local electric company.
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>>1209769

>>sinewave UPS
>beyond my paygrade, but. again, if it exceeds the draw, its not gonna work. If this is sposed run perm on the UPS, then autoswitch to generator, you goona need to account for everything on that circuit in the generator load, figure you can maybe do without the AC for an hour or so, hsalf the gen

Good advice. The system can run entirely without AC but, being in Florida I'd like to put cooling on it. Without AC it operates around 85 degrees f.
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>>1209769
>Here is where I think you should put a vent. Also try investing on a smaller desk

If the desk is detrimental, maybe. The hallway leads to a walking and laundry area. Maybe I can tap into the dryer vent?
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>>1209931
Sorry I didn't provide measurements for that space but the rack barely fits in there, it's tight.


Also I may have messed up on where you want the vent, the sliding door opens to the exterior of the building.
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>>1209947
>I was told that most new building wire is standard to support up to a 20 Amps and I can put a 20 amp breaker on it and be done. But I don't know if that's smart. I am waiting on a call from a local electric company.
So you just want to trust that the electrician installed over-rated wire on that run and hope for the best?
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Bumperino
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Any other ideas?
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>>1209769
Electrical fag here.

>2. Can I plug a 20 Amp breaker into an 15 AMP breaker on a less-than-10 year old building or do I still need to get an electrician to test wire load?

I assume you mean replace the 15A breaker with a 20A one. No, you can't, at least not by code, because the wire is sized for a 15A circuit. Realistically, the wire could handle 20A all day every day, but you'd have to do it yourself because any credible electrician wouldn't touch it.

You have two dedicated circuits being put in, that's more than plenty.

>3. Outside the sliding door on the right is my A/C condenser on a dedicated circuit. Could I hook my sinewave UPS into that circuit to minimize costs on 2 dedicated circuits?

Absolutely not, nigger rigged shit like that is how people's houses burn down. The A/C condenser runs on 240v and the UPS is 99% likely to only be rated for 120v. Plus they're called dedicated circuits for a reason.

tl;dr do it if you want to see a UPS explode.
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>>1209769
>2. Can I plug a 20 Amp breaker into an 15 AMP breaker on a less-than-10 year old building or do I still need to get an electrician to test wire load?
measure the cross sectional area of the entire circuit and apply all necessary de-rating factors according to the installation method (cables bunched together buried in insulation can carry less current than the same sized cable clipped to the wall directly). look up tables in the electrical code for your jurisdiction to determine the current carrying capacity of the installation, this will allow you to choose a suitable breaker for that circuit.

electricians don't usually 'test' cables for current carrying capacity with a machine, this is more for testing resistance of earthing arrangement (difficult to calculate) or insulation resistance (insulation gets damaged usually blamed on a cak-handed plasterer!) or current imbalance devices are working.

'testing' the current capability of an installed cable would be incredibly inconvenient because it would involve burning your house to the ground should it fail.
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>>1210255
Save yourself the trouble, if it has a 15A breaker on it it has 14awg wire that is rated for no higher than 15A.
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>>1210243
>I assume you mean replace the 15A breaker with a 20A one. No, you can't, at least not by code, because the wire is sized for a 15A circuit. Realistically, the wire could handle 20A all day every day, but you'd have to do it yourself because any credible electrician wouldn't touch it.


>>1210243
>tl;dr do it if you want to see a UPS explode.


Thanks man, that's exactly it. But understand, lol, your first answer justifies my second question. And my UPS is 240v with a 240 pass through.

>>1210255
>>1210262

Thanks anons. My #1 reason for asking is that these buildings aren't old and I was told by the builder that all wiring is the same except where 240v is. Likelihood is all the lines are 14awg, despite only this room being a 15amp breaker.
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>>1210342
>I was told by the builder that all wiring is the same

If you have any surviving relatives they can probably use that in the lawsuit.
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>>1210554
lol
Thread posts: 21
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