Hello all, I have an Ethernet cable that goes from my house

>>1200798
I'd check the impedance of the individual wires, assuming you've got some spare RJ-45 jacks lying about. If they are all normal (consult a wire resistivity chart, such as the one on the wikipedia page for AWG) then I'd consider repairing the cable. Otherwise replacing the whole thing will hardly be too expensive, provided you don't need an electrician to do it for you. This is just to make sure none of the conductors has been deformed and weakened.

Your method would put all the tension on to the super glue, so perhaps consider tying the two sides together with some thin steel wire as well. Wrapping the construction in a sheet that wouldn't stretch (aluminium or plastic?) would allow you to epoxy the two halves to it as you wrap it on, keeping the two together and using the entire area of the sheet to hold the tension, instead of the small area on the faces of the plastic pieces. CA glue or epoxy might not stick well to the plastic, so beware.

Personally I'd just release the tension on that segment with a few anchors on either side of it with steel cable between them, and cover the relaxed area with epoxy and/or fusing tape.

I don't know what the plastic things are called though.

File: cable anchor.png (2KB, 640x133px) Image search: [Google]

2KB, 640x133px

>>1200801
Like this.

>>1200801
>>1200804
thanks for the advice, but the Ethernet cable works fine I'm currently using it now. And thanks for letting me know all the tension would only be on the small amount of superglue.

Now were you talking about any specific anchors and steel cable that would work for this? Googling came up with anchors for multiple cables, not single ones, and even then they didn't look like there was an easy way for steel cable to connect them.

Also correct me if i'm wrong, but is your suggestion of improving my method saying I'd leave the wiring part (blue in my pic) exposed? In my method I wanted to push the wire casing together so that they touch again and so the internals are no longer exposed. From what I understand of your suggestion, i'd leave the internals (blue) exposed but then cover it with plastic/aluminum to epoxy it? I didn't quite follow on your suggestion of "Wrapping the construction in a sheet that wouldn't stretch (aluminium or plastic?) would allow you to epoxy the two halves to it as you wrap it on", since i wouldn't be able to cover the whole device (wire and plastic connector) in that aluminum or plastic. I feel like I misunderstood what you meant exactly, my bad.

Basically if I were to try and do your method (anchors and steel cable) in the picture you provided, what exact materials (more specifically, exact anchors and wire) would I need that I could cheaply get from home depot or amazon? Sorry if the question is too specific, i just don't have much experience with this kind of stuff or materials.

What's the distance between the two buildings?
Also, if you aren't using cable rated for outdoors, the sheathing could be suffering from UV damage, making it deteriorate.

>>1200825
the distance is about 20 feet, and the cable is 150 feet long i think, i installed it a while ago and most of it goes under the house anyways. When I purchased it, it said it was rated for outdoors, but i'm guessing some birds who like to rest on it messed with it.

this link is probably the exact cable i bought over a year ago.

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B001B6C5H8

>>1200832
Dats some breddy gud cable.

https://pamdist.com/products/drop-clamp-rg6-stnls

Your cable should be supported with these. They should be good enough. I'm not 100% if the diameter is right for you. The other option is lace up style grips but those tend to be more expensive.

You should have one of these on each end holding the whole thing up between houses. then you want two more on each side of the repair. You can run the wires of the clamp through each other and fold them over so they can hold up the damage and put a little droop down of slack there.

I'd wrap it in some self vulcanizing tape like
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-1-in-x-3-33-yd-Stretch-and-Seal-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Tape-in-Black-1208952/100206050

Also need to scuff about 6" of the cable with 80grit emery and put liquid tape on it. At work we use a product called c cement. Then start wrapping with the vulcanizing tape. I sort of want to recommend putting some rtv silicone or petroleum jelly between the shield and tape incase the shield is damaged.... Then again you make it sound like its fine.

1: Take line down on at least one side to remove tension.
2: Make repair with scuffing cable, liquid tape, and vulcanizing tape
3: Put clamps around damage so the damaged section isn't under tension
4: Put cable back up. You should use the osesame clamps on both sides. Not sure how youre holding it up right now.

>>1201116
This will probably take a couple inches of slack, even optimally. Depends how tight you have it already. Those clamps are going to be good for at least a hundred pounds, so if it's slack right now, you might gain enough cable by putting it under tension that you won't have to re do any of your house wrapping.

They sell purpose built vermin/tree guards for protecting. They are just some.plastic shit that slides over the cable, but you could put really pretty much anything on it. Just watch it every couple of months and replace sections as the birds fuck with it.I do not recommend shooting the birds while they are on your cable.

Crows/ravens are actually smart enough to be scared of finger pistols if they are paying attention to you. Keep shooting some for real though when they aren't on your cable though. Or don't, maybe that will train them to only sit on your cable

File: Sans titre.png (21KB, 1653x586px) Image search: [Google]

21KB, 1653x586px

buy a long steel wire twist it around your ethernet cable and attach it solidly to your house and garage.
Make sure the tension is on the steel wire not on your cable.

>>1200798
there is no way in fuck any cable is rated for 20ft unsupported horizontal span. check with the manufacturer if you like.

>>1201126
close but no cigar. string up and tension your steel wire first. use a marine eye/staple/d loop on plate and a turnbuckle or similar for tension.

then cable tie or tape i suppose your cable at regular intervals along its length.

this is a catenary wire, you can buy a kit to do it. sometimes you can even buy shotgun cable where the steel support cable is sheathed next to the conductor assembly.

>>1201126
I've thought about it again and I was wrong. You need to do the oposite.
If you can, remove your ethernet cable. Anchor the steel wire to your house and garage and then twist the ethernet cable around the steel wire. It might be overkill but it will be solid.

>>1201135
You want strand/messenger wire (steel cable) and lashing wire. You put a lashing wire nut on the strand, start the lashing wire on it, then lash around and around the strand with your cable. This is overkill for op's needs and he will rip the roof off his house if he tensions the strand correctly. it will just add unnecessary weight.

>>1201132
I ran 150 ft of 50 pair. That's only 50 pounds.

cat5 is about .05 lb/ft. If op then ->
https://www.spaceagecontrol.com/calccabl.htm?F=75&a=20&q=.05&g=32.18503937&Submit+Button=Calculate

Just about bum fuck all cable sag for a very modest 75 lb tension. If op is a weak girly man, and can only pull 50 lb, it's still fuck all cable sag.

Ops cable in particular probably is not rated for any sort of span because it's listed as direct burial. I bet it doesn't give a fuck though, especially if he uses decent clamps like

>>1201166
Derp.

Decent clmaps like in
>>1201116

In that post I meant for op to check his cable diameter and look for another clamp if his isn't in spec. Otherwise he could probably wrap it with the vulcanizing tape some more near the clamps to hold it up.

File: i-L5Nf6vH-L.jpg (103KB, 800x534px) Image search: [Google]

103KB, 800x534px

Fuck hanging that stuff. It's always going to be a problem.

I'd go direct-burial c5e. Run a couple of them; cable cost is minimal compared to labor, and when you're pulling one you might as well pull 3 or 4.

Leave yourself slack on either side (loop or two), terminate at a patch panel. You can find little ones for pretty cheap at big-box stores.

Depending on the length, you might also want to consider a surge protector at either end.

t. tower tech, c5e ftp to all the radios on the tower.

>>1201166
>You want strand/messenger wire (steel cable) and lashing wire.

This. Or see if you can find "figure eight CAT5 cable". Figure eight cable is a steel messenger wire moulded with the type of cable (telephone CATV, CAT5) in one assembly. The steel messenger is clamped at either end and pulled up to suspend the cable assembly.

>>1200817
Ah, I assumed you'd stripped some of the insulation away, not that it had been stretched enough to break. Chances are those conductors are weakened, and I'd personally try to replace the cable. By releasing the tension on one part you're just going to put more tension on the rest and another break will probably happen eventually. The suggestions that involve using a steel cable to hold all the wire's tension are probably your best bet.

>>1201177
>3 or 4 cat 5e
Why not just put a single cat 6a down there and run it with whatever switch you need? You can't even buy 5e network cables at my local store anymore, they're that old.

>>1201195
I believe the point of the multiple cables was redundancy.

In either way it seems like a strange suggestion, I would have said conduit.

But if op wanted to do that he probably would have first.

OP already said it didn't just pull apart, it's bird/varmint damage.

Unsupported cable isn't that crazy, especially for a short span like op has. I stand by just buying $5 worth of clamps and $7 of tape.

I throw my hat at the suggestion of tensioning a steel cable between the two buildings, then hanging the ethernet cable from the steel cable. The point here is to take the stress away from the ethernet cable. Fix a loop every 2-4 feet on the steel cable and thread the ethernet cable through them. You're going to have droop regardless, but have the steel cable bear the brunt of it.

Then to fix the ethernet sheathe, just wrap some electrical tape or whatever around the break for protection.

File: diy help 2.png (2MB, 1660x1844px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 1660x1844px

Thank you everyone for the suggestions. In the pic related, there is another wire connecting the house and garage already (in orange), but it's been there since the house was built and is for electricity, so having my Ethernet cable wrapped around it or something like that would damage it overtime, at least that's what this electrician guy told me.

>>1201116
pic related is how the cable is currently supported between the house and garage. I know it's shitty but i had to work with what i had, and i had a fuckton of those little nail clamps and it's held up for over a year now.

For the link you sent to the clamps, do i have to make an account to purchase? i didn't see an "add to cart" option, but would these be available on amazon or home depot? also on your step 4, you said i should use the "osesame clamps on both sides", what did you mean by that?

>>1201120
thanks for that suggestion, once i fix up the damage i'll look into vermin guards to cover the wire between the house and garage.

>>1201132
>>1201126
>>1201135
>>1201166
>>1201219
as someone stated before, that sounds like overkill since it's just a single Ethernet cable. It also sounds a but expensive for the materials. I wanted to keep it cheap, and some of the other suggestions are much cheaper than that.

>>1201177
that sounds ridiculously expensive for a small fix i'm trying to do, and besides wired>>>>wireless in terms of speed/reliability.

>>1201206
would home depot or amazon have the specific clamps i'd need? Couldn't seem to find any of them online

Also, does ANYONE know what the name of the plastic thing from the original post is??

>>1201337
>those same clamps on both sides.
So I am recommending four clamps, not just two for the damage. Two for the damage and two for the ends

I was able to add the items and push enter and it took me to the cart. I dunno if they are actually a decent supplier. You could also try searching for them or 'p clamp round' or something.

And just put some hooks in the wood. Commercially we use a 'ramshead' but you can probably use whatever

>>1201177
>Fuck hanging that stuff. It's always going to be a problem.
For real, OP why the heck are you hanging this?
Bury that shit underground, ideally in some trunking if you want to be fancy otherwise it'll be blowing in the wind and birds will perch on it and all sorts.

Wild Card; Go and buy some Ubiquiti airmax kit to make a point to point radio network, its good shit.

>>1201166
>75lbft tension on cat5e
25lbft is the MAXIMUM TENSION for installation pulling recommended in TIA/EIA-568 to avoid stretching and damaging conductors. thats the pulling installation force, you know like a one time thing, not even close to some sustained tension on the wire.
you are a fucking buffoon.
>rip the roof off
maybe don't fix it to a tile?

>>1201337
>sounds like overkill since it's just a single Ethernet cable. It also sounds a but expensive for the materials
consider that the materials to set up a catenary wire will be less than that of the network cable hung from it and how many times you are going to have to repair or replace the cable when it inevitably breaks.

if you hang a wire, any wire, this is how you do it. you can't have an electrical cable under tension they simply aren't built to handle it.

>>1201565
>ideally in some trunking
you want at a minimum twin wall duct, bury it at least two spade depths down and bed with gravel. check your local building codes for specifics. bear in mind bending radii of even future cable pulls, say you want cat6 it has a much larger radius than cat5e. use a vacuum cleaner at one end and suck some string or thread through once its buried. this is of course balls deep hardcore if you put some loose tube fibre down there for wicked bandwidth!!

>>1201565
>buy some Ubiquiti airmax kit
you can get some wifiap for peanuts and a fed dog food cans (pringles cans are not the right diameter contrary to popular belief) for directional antenna. there is also an open source project using leds and photodiodes in 3rd world shitholes or something but i can never remember the name. no reason you can't get a couple of remote client fibre media converters and modify them to drive laser pointers!

>>1201116
>https://pamdist.com/products/drop-clamp-rg6-stnls
>>1201337

I think I was tricked by the clamp picture. Even the one I linked requires figure 8/messenger cable.

http://preformed.com/images/pdfs/Communications/Pole_Line_Hardware/Dead-ends__Accessories/Coaxial_Dead-end/sp2551_dualcoaxcustomcoaxde.pdf

https://www.amazon.com/PREFORMED-PRODUCTS-1500-DEADEND-Shipping/dp/B072J82SFD

These seem more appropriate. Check the diamater of your cable.

And otherwise you could go with suspending a steel cable and just zip-tying your cat5 to it every 12" or so. Actually lashing it to the support strand isn't necessary, especially for such a short span.

>>1201615
I was being a bit of a dick about the guy recommending steel cable because I was obsessed with what we use at work, which is under thousands of pounds of tension.

Op could just get some hardware store cable and get it hand tight and zip tie it and be fine.

>There are literally cables made to be suspended with no other support and the hardware to do it.

Op could leave it as a slack span as well and only be sagging by 3'. His wire is already suspended, and has not been damaged by it, it's been damaged by animals.

Op clearly doesn't want to bury it for reasons, he would have done it the first time when he bought 'burial' wire anyway.

>>1201615
>Hurr loose tube fibre
>Cantennas
Now I know you're a you're a fucking buffoon too.

I'm sure op wants to drop $700 on a fiber and converters, when his existing shit already works fine, and for $15 he could tape it up and re-hang it.

File: diy help 3.png (1MB, 1660x1740px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 1660x1740px

>>1201615
>>1201630
>>1201219
Now that I've had some time to think about it, I believe I will go the route of buying some steel wire and connecting it from my garage to the house, and then use zipties in between to connect the Ethernet cable to the steel wire.
You were right about it being less costly than having to constantly repair/possibly replace the cable when it has no support, so thank you for that.


Now the question is what wire do I use? Having googled and searched on home depot's website and amazon and youtube, I've come to the conclusion that 1/8" steel wire rope is overkill and too thick. So I looked for and found the following 1/16" solutions, since this wire seemed more reasonable. (Note, I need ~20 feet of wire to connect the house and garage):

Walmart:
1x https://www.walmart.com/ip/Peerless-1-16-Wire-Rope-Kit-30/36442105

OR

Home Depot:
2x http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-16-in-Zinc-Plated-Clamp-Set-4-Pack-44434/206961161
20x http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-16-in-Stainless-Steel-Uncoated-Wire-Rope-809786/204765202

and with either option, I'd just buy 2 fish eye hooks to attach to each end to suspend the steel wire.
In pic related, the green circles are where I plan to put the fish eye hooks.

Does this now seem like a better repair? Or do I need something better/am I missing something? Like thicker wire, better wire in terms of weather resistance or place of purchase, different hooks on the ends (I believe someone earlier suggested a ramshead hook), better hook placement, etc. Thank you again for the help so far.

File: IMG_20150730_104800652_HDR-L.jpg (94KB, 800x451px) Image search: [Google]

94KB, 800x451px

>>1201195
>single cat 6a
then when that single cat6 breaks, you're still fucked.

You can aggregate multiple c5e's for increased throughput if the switches at both ends support that. And a single c5e will support gigabit to 100m, which is more cable than most people would ever push a signal on.

Majority of devices don't even fully utilize gigabit, so you're still good for another 5-10 years in the consumer market. Netflix 4k is only ~40mbps stream; fast ethernet is more than capable of handling that.

>>1201206
>redundancy
Correct.
>conduit
Eh, that isn't without its own problems. For a short run like OP's, C5E FTP direct-burial should be more than enough.

>>1201337
Never recommended wireless, it's just what I have the most experience dealing with when it comes to outdoor data cabling installations. And tower sites see some pretty shitty wx conditions through the year.

>>1201565
Airfiber if you really want throughput.

File: diy help 4.jpg (602KB, 1800x1740px) Image search: [Google]

602KB, 1800x1740px

>>1201654
If you're going to string steel cable between the 2 buildings, you might as well buy the heavy guage and do the whole thing right.

>>1201654
The walmart kit probably comes out slightly cheaper because it comes with the swaging hardware. You still need the eyelets but you need the clamps in there to hold the wire taught.

You should also put a little loop down on whichever end of the cable is lower than the other so water will run down and drip off there. If you have aerial poewr lines or phone lines they should be coming in like that.

If you don't have the slack, don't worry about it, it probably won't effect you. It's to maximize the life of the cable, but there's lots of other things that could go wrong before that could effect it.

Tensioning cable tip: You can get it as tight as you can pull it and set the nuts to hold it. Don't set them super tight, see if the sag is where you want it. If you want to tighten it up, you should be able to grip the cable with pliers and hammer on the pliers to tighten it up. The clamp should keep it from loosening, but the hammer blows will tighten it.

>>1201654
Catenary wire is the keyword you need.

>>1201635
Wow sorry for trying to give the guy some alternatives.
Second hand fibre kit works out around the same cost as copper for a short backbone.

>>1201756
i tried searching for that on ebay and home depot and amazon, but kept getting things like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Marklin-My-World-Catenary-5-Piece/dp/B0002HZTSO

I think maybe it's a dialect thing? Here in the US google says: A catenary is a system of overhead wires used to supply electricity to a locomotive, streetcar, or light rail vehicle which is equipped with a pantograph.

Is there a difference between Catenary wire and wire rope?

Some of the few websites i found kits calling it Catenary wire were from overseas or expensive, and i wouldn't trust giving them my credit card info; either way, shipping probably costs up the ass and i'm sure an alternative already exists at home depot or amazon or something here.

Have you considered putting the wire in some rigid plastic tube-like substance that's is affixed between your house and shed?

This willl:
•Take the strain. Your wire will just rest in it
•Protect it from the elements and flybois
•Remove any need for complex corrective works of the break besides a few loops of electrical tape

>>1201958
Catenary is the curve a suspended chain or wire makes.

I think it is dialect. When I looked it up, it was metric.

In the office we call it messenger wire or support strand.

I would not give a shit, that stainless cable from Walmart is fine, your cable only weighs two pounds, you could use clothesline and it could take that much tension easy.

>>1201958
Yeh wire rope is same same, that and some turn buckles and youre sorted

>>1201177
yeah, if you're willing to dig a 2ft trench for 100 feet, go for it!

It's perfectly ok and up to code to string it across two buildings like drawn, idk why he just doesn't get some expensive electrical tape and tape it up if there's no exposed copper though...

File: 1484554222561.png (39KB, 122x108px) Image search: [Google]

39KB, 122x108px

>>1202093
sounds good

>>1202101
I did cover it with electrical tape the same day i noticed the break, but my concern was future breaks and how to make the wire last longer.

Thank you to everyone for the advice, I will buy the materials soon (2 hooks, 1 turnbuckle, wire rope, 2 clamp sets) and fix it within a day or 2. If this thread is still alive, i'll post pictures of the completed project, although wire cable sleeves to protect from birds and stuff will have to come later. Thanks again for all the advice, you all really helped out a lot.

If you have a shovel like a drain spade, you just push it into the ground and wiggle it back and forth to make a vee trench

You can also rent a trencher for under $75 for 4 hours at homedepot
Depending on how much your time is worth, including the future troubles, etc, that might be cheaper. You can do about 18 inches deep, 100 foot in just an hour if no concrete. There's one that's like a giant circular saw that only goes 13 inches, but cuts straight through big roots

Myself, I'd either bury it or do wireless with directional antennas mounted at roof height.
I don't get how you run it parallel and close to AC without getting induced currents and noise slowing down the connections and risking damage to the equipment on either end.

>>1202532
He has shielded cable dingus.

He doesn't have slack to rerun it under ground, it already all done and existing.

Op is not crazy for running his shit aerial. Look outside your window while you're driving, aerial shit is everywhere.

>>1202532
>without getting induced currents
Ethernet uses differential signaling which means that in theory any signal induced on one conductor is induced onto its opposite number carrying the inverted signal. The two are compared at the receiver and coupled signals which aren't instead between pairs cancel out.
In theory.

>>1202515
IF you put fishing line a few inches above the cable, maybe that would prevent birds from sitting on the main cable.

>>1202593
Two 1/2" apart mains wires should work too.

OP have you ever heard of wi-fi?

>>1200798
10/10 paint job would look again

File: diy help 4.png (2MB, 1306x980px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 1306x980px

>>1203085
thank you

might have to wait until tomorrow, but materials have been purchased

File: diy help 5.png (4MB, 1792x3056px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 1792x3056px

>>1203163
And for anyone who cares, I finished this morning. Thank you again for all the help everyone, especially >>1201615

>>1200798
>if anyone here thinks there's a better/less retarded way to fix it, please let me know.
Stopped reading there.

OP, first thing is to replace your ethernet cable with a Direct Burial ethernet cable. Even if you never bury the thing the Direct Burial cable is meant to last outdoors.

Next is to eliminate the tension on the wire, and you have 3 options:
>Bury the cable directly
>Run the cable through conduit and bury the conduit (does not need to be done unless you're planning to bury it shallow. You'd hate to be digging one day, cut the cable with a shovel, and have to replace it AGAIN)
>Run a steel tension cable across the gap and zip-tie the ethernet cable to it

Good luck!

>>1203627
>posting so late that you do it after OP solves his problem
wew

File: did you hear michael jackson died.jpg (27KB, 600x655px) Image search: [Google]

27KB, 600x655px

>>1203633
In my defense I stopped reading halfway through the first post and replied immediately. Nice to see my advice is on par, at least.

File: pokemon chair.jpg (86KB, 500x1000px) Image search: [Google]

86KB, 500x1000px

>>1203627
>>1203637
>And op already posted that he is using a direct burial cable, he just didn't want to bury it.

>>1203590
This Anon needs a prize : the first person to come on /diy/ asking for help, was given the correct answer that contradicted his initial plan, changed his plan to conform to the correct answer, actually implemented the plan and posted results.

This is some kind of miracle.

>>1203627
>Direct Burial
he was told many times but he went with the hobo fix ... seriously he even used white zip ties

>>1203712
>he doesn't know the fiber feeding his cable node is held up with zip ties onto a steel wire

Admittedly we use black zip ties, and they are heavier duty, because our cable is well, heavier.

>>1200798
Dude, all these suggestions are way too impractical for this stupid 20' span. Just duck tape it shut, paint the entire exposed cable for UV protection, wait till it finally really snaps to replace it.

Check the impedance, what the serious fuck?
Also, we routinely do unsupported cat5 runs pole-to-pole for section bypasses. Everybody is way overthinking this shit.

>>1203590
proud of you anon job well done, hope its satisfying!

All this work for Ethernet in the garage.

It's residential electric service. He's got power in the garage.

>Ethernet over power modules. 50 bux at Walmart.

Faggets.

>>1204367
See
>>1203633
Also you can't read

>>1204412
I think there needs to be a big "mystery solved" tag on these threads, that said I'm not saging.

>>1204412
Oh I know he fixed it. I can read. Also his fix won't be permanent.

It floors me everyone pushed for the messenger solution.

Sometimes I wonder if this board is just full of 12 year olds or 80 year old retired electricians with nothing better to do.

>>1204434
There's a good idea.

File: 1385522945817.jpg (701KB, 1053x1070px) Image search: [Google]

701KB, 1053x1070px

>>1204527
So he solved his fucking problem for $12 instead of $50 in power adapters? Which invariably suck anyway? "permanent" What's permanent? warranty on those power adapters isn't going to be more than a year.
Let me check these reviews... yeah 'died after 5 months' 'died after 14 months' '7mbps - 0 if on different circuit breakers' 'not compatible with AFCI breakers'

Fucking awesome. yeah. powerline. Definitely the way to go. Not tape. Not messenger.

He already has the wire, it already works. Why would he fucking drop $50 $100 or $700 as some of you faggots are suggesting?

Messenger is fine. The cable is UV rated, and not even under tension anymore.

>>1204835
W/e nigger. He had critter damage. Means they'll be back unless he made sure they can't get at it. Hope it don't get fucked up again. Be interesting if OP posted iperf results.

Mang for a couple bux i can push full speed 100mb duplex in there no wires necessary no ladders no messenger no risk. The trick is to only use 2 modules because it creates a collision domain over the power lines. I've been using them for 8 fucking years in 3 different houses and they work fucking awesome for a link to the garage. The units haven't died and I lived on country power for 4 years of that where the goddam utility reclosers were set to some insane fucking shit like 2 second retries. Everything had to be on ups or you could kiss it goodbye in months, except for those little guys. I dunno what shitty brands you reviewed anon but I've never ever had an issue.

They don't work in fucking highrise condos you need single phase service. Afcis are for the bedroom and I assure you they work just fine on those breakers. Fuck I pushed blue rays through them.

The job would of been way faster and guaranteed for success as well as he's in a residential environment. Sometimes the work isn't worth saving the 30 bux if you're at risk for losing 12 in parts, doing work at heights and your time is worth money too.

Honestly the only value added to this exercise is OP learned how to do a trade task. Maybe it was worth it.

But either way I'm glad OP was successful.

File: mini_magick20140728-17070-37zk8u.jpg (206KB, 715x449px) Image search: [Google]

206KB, 715x449px

>>1205289
It's not really hard to deal with varmints. You can buy any plastic tube and put it over the cable and just watch it and replace it once a year or whatever.

Telco and cable does this in high risk areas. They make armored cable but given enough time they chew through literally anything.

>>1204367
why don't you power module yourself into the fucking trash