Today we're going to learn some basic schematic reading.

>>1197380
I opened the panel and found my terminal block. I verified incoming power by seeing where the cord goes once its inside the machine.

Of course, I'm wearing my PPE.

I can now be sure power is getting to the internal breaker. Let's be sure it isn't tripped by resetting it. Afterwards, we'll test to make sure power is there on the other side of it while keeping our other lead on Neutral.

Electricity in your house or workplace is quite simple. It sits in your wall waiting until you give it a place to go. It wants to go from the 'hot' side to the Neutral side ASAP. The breakers in your house only allow so much of it though.
TBC

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>>1197382
If the breakers sense that what you've plugged in is using too much power and is becoming a safety hazard, it stops it by tripping.

We can use our meter to trick the electricity into thinking it's getting to neutral, but in reality we're just measuring it's potential.

Let's continue.

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>>1197384
Without even testing, we can assume that, if the wiring is in working condition, all of the following in pic related are true. Our nuetral potential is available at all these locations. Remember, nuetral doesn't hold voltage when there is no load. In other words, nuetral is the path that voltage will take, ideally. Sometimes you fuck that up by putting your fingers on a live wire. That's not good. Then you become the nuetral. Nuetral sounds pretty similar to ground, doesn't it?

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>>1197391
Neutral potential continues on its way.
>1
My interlock switch. This is a safety that protects the user from losing his arms. If the protective cage is open, the switch opens, stopping N from continuing. In another example, this switch probably stops your dryer when you open the door. Some devices have many of these switches in line with each other.
>2
My off switch. It is normally closed, and requires the user to physically press the button to stop the flow of power. As of now, with no load, it only breaks Ns path. I verified the last two items we're good by keeping one lead at the L1 ('hot' or '120v') and following were N should be. Ican move on.

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I just pressed the 'start' or 'power' button. The N potential just moved past the start switch, because it is the opposite of the stop switch. It closed only when physically pressed.
The off switch was a momentary Normally Closed push button switch.
The on was a momentary Normally closed push button switch.
Now that N has gotten all the way to the contactor, my contactors coil should pull in on the internal contacts, which let the potentials shown at opposite sides get to the other side.
Globe shows contactors terribly, but you can find more on Google. The purpose of a contactor normally is to allow low voltage, like a 120 v control circuit as we're diagnosing, control much higher voltages. In this example, however, we're just letting 120 through. Contactors are much more reliable than relays in some cases, which is probably why they use one here.
Anyways, my contactor didn't activate. Now I know why my motor isn't running. I just replaced it. Let's trace the power to it's main load.

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After replacing my contactor, the contacts close and my motor ran!
The Nuetral potential made it to the motor, and the 120V hot side went to the motor and through it's coil, making it run. Then, N carries the exhausted remaining power back to the long awaited other side of the outlet. Here, he collects 72 virgins and gets his remaining teeth replaced by dentures, as he can retire. Soon, like all of us, he will find himself in the ground, turned to nothing. His energy has gone into the load, so his job is done.

See the timer next to the start switch? Can anyone take a guess?
A hint, it is sort of like an automatic stop switch.

Also, I think I missed the hoist switch. It just makes sure the bowl that the product is to be mixed in is fully raised. It is exactly the same electrically as the other switch, but it does a different physical job. A lot of mixers have a magnetic switch check to make sure a bowl is actually in place. Globe trusts it's users. They shouldn't. People who work in restaurants are really dumb.

Protip: this is exactly how your dryer and washer work. If you can figure this one out, you can figure out your dryer. The main difference is that your dryer probably uses a higher voltage or 2 legs of voltage for more heat.
Another difference is that your dryer runs 1 or 2 motors, plus activates and powers heat.

If anyone has any questions or harassment, you can email me at [email protected].

I'm slow to respond because that is a throwaway email.

Also, if anyone is really interested in more of this, you can post your own schematic or I can use a professional interactive schematic to explain better.

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>>1197405
Plenty of stupid stuff in newer dryers and washers to confuse you if you only have a wiring diagram. The older ones are pretty straightforward, but alas not so much any more :(


For example this particular frontload washer will agitate but not high speed spin if the door lock safety switch isn't tripped... hilariously frigidaire forgot to include this information in the tech sheet... I would love to know how many people replaced the motor board thinking it was the cause..

Sorry if potato picture I'm on my phone