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I was looking to clean out the mold in out bathroom ceiling by

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I was looking to clean out the mold in out bathroom ceiling by ripping out the affected areas and spackling/repainting the ceiling with proper water resistant ceiling paint

However, ripping out "the affected areas" turned out to be the entire ceiling and I think this is too big for spackle

How do I go about this?
>>
Rip out the boards, replace them, tape and mud the seams, skim coat, seal, paint.
>>
>>1193457
well the paper layer helps block the moisture, so now that you have torn that off for the most part, you best replace the whole board. while you are up there install a vent fan
>>
>>1193478
>>1193479
thanks! i figured i'd have to replace the entire gypsum layer but i figured i'd get a second opinion first
>>
There is a few ways to fix it:

1) Clean the edges, so they don't turn to shit with a utility blade. Prime the area. Mud and tape the edges. Paint.

2) Completely cut out the area and resheetrock. then do the finishing listed above.

3) Sheetrock over the whole ceiling to hide shit.

4) Go retro, and install an ugly ass drop ceiling to hide shit.

1) looks possible although 2) is better.
>>
>>1193482

I don't see why they want you to rip the sheetrock out. It looks fine in that photo, and new sheetrock is not going to stop a mold issue.

The vent fan makes some sense, if you run it all the time, but again, that seems overkill.

And forget about "water resistant paint", whatever that is. Just skim it with joint compound, maybe one or two coats, sand it sorta smooth, and paint with flat white ceiling paint. No need for primer when you are using flat latex paint.

It's just a ceiling.

However, it does look a bit glossy. Hopefully it is not oil-based paint, in which case you DO need to prime it to go back with flat white latex.

>>1193488
>Mud and tape the edges.

There is no need to tape that. It will just make it harder to skim. Even those gouges don't need tape; maybe the larger one could, but he can just skim it a few times.

As I said, it's a ceiling, and if you use flat white latex like everyone does on an ordinary ceiling, most imperfections will not show up.

I've been painting for 20 years. Don't overdo it.
>>
>>1193489
Eh, I worked apt. building maintenance so here's why I'd do shit..

The re-sheetrocking, is for a few of reasons. It lets you see if, there's an actual problem up there that needs to be addressed versus just condensation causing mold. Chances are it was just condensation mold/no fan but we were a bit paranoid at my work and would give it a check, especially if the mold was recurring. Most of the paper is gone after his going at it so replacing the section wouldn/t be that bad an idea. And lastly the assholes at my work would occasionally do sheetrock with whatever they had on hand instead of the greenboard, So I like to make sure everything was done proper.

And I'd probably have just taped the edge closest to the camera, Everything else is to close to the tile. As to why i would tape it, eh just the way I was taught.
>>
>>1193498
>Eh, I worked apt. building maintenance so here's why I'd do shit..

If you have experience, tell me exactly what about that pristine cardboard indicates a leak or other problem?

And greenboard is never used on a ceiling, unless maybe the ceiling is tiled. It goes behind or under tile.

Taping those edges does nothing. you tape joints so that it's easier to skim them that's all. tape is not structural.
>>
>>1193506
Dude greenboard is used areas of humidty, not to back tile, concrete board is used for that shit. Ya use greenboard in fucking bathrooms.
>>
Replace the gib, OR paint over it and ignore it for the next 5 years.
>>
>>1193457
I scraped all the popcorn sealer off my ceiling glued up fiberglass wall panel and siliconed the edges behind the moldings plastic or fiberglass panel gives an easy to clean surface
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