Android auto ideas - I'm looking for ideas to boost the

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>>1191566
Bumping after a half hour is considered silly on a slow board like this. Your thread will be around for days.

12V cigarette lighter charger. Problem solved.

>>1191568
Thanks but I need data connectivity for Android auto.

>>1191569
What about inductive charging? Can it use that while also connected through USB? Or will it default to USB and shut off the inductive charger?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEncZHchsA4

sort of relevant and fun but useless

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>>1191569
Remember the Y-cables used for hard disks that need more than the standard 0.5A per USB port? One plug is for data and power and the second plug only for additional power. You would need the Y-adapter version that has 2 male plugs and one female plug for your phone cable. The power-only plug goes to the cigarette lighter charger.

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>>1191643
This guy knows whats up. Do this then get pic related for the power supply. 12v to 5v converters are a thing. Note the 5 amp some come in 3.

>>1191643
I may actually have one of those cables at the office... I'm going to go look for it in the morning!
Gracias!

>>1191563
That's gay as fuck.

Get some 10 guage wire and a 30amp inline fuze.

Go to the car or boat section of walmart and get a good auxilary 12v outlet with 2 or 3 hiles and mount that bitch under your dash and ignore your shit factory one.

>>1191568
Data wires could be taped into. Should be small guage wires and unafected.

>>1192070
If not you cam probably make 1 easy

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>>1191563
Really isn't any way around it. You can use bluetooth with its limitations, or deal with 1/2A charging capability.

>>1191643
This won't work.
When a USB device begins communication with a host, one of the things it negotiates is power. The host (your car stereo in this case) tells the device it's a 1/2A supply, and the device limits itself accordingly. If the device trys to draw more than the negotiated power, things like short-circuit hardware protection can kick in, causing more problems.

So even if you were to manage to give the device adequate rapid-charge current, because it's negotiating with the host, it's only going to pull that much.

Powered hubs, even the good ones, usually limit to USB spec currents (1/2A). And yes, the host will need a hub driver, which a car stereo probably doesn't have.

"Rapid charging" (anything over 1/2A) is kind of a hack on USB specs.

tl;dr: you're pretty much shit outta luck.

>Pic kinda related, bulk USB charger using TI TPS2511 charge controllers
>forgot to account for PCB thickness on the enclosure

>>1192083
That's exactly what I've been learning in my research. There is a power "handshake" that occurs and this is what leads to bad type C cable burning up low amp chargers because they try to draw down too much juice. I was thinking splicing a better charger in, but I don't want to break stuff.

>>1191569
Get powered USB hub. Plug data into wimpy built-in port. Plug hub power into cigarette lighter adapter.

>>1192316
Hub is not an option. Not recognize by head unit.

>>1192079
>>1192083
What do you think of this?
Black USB 3.0 Female to Dual USB Male Extra Power Data Y Extension Cable for 2.5" Mobile Hard Disk CableCC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZUE6PVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VdTpzbEDMMC9X

I could plug one side I'm the data port sand the other in a quick charge lighter adapter, yes?

>>1191563

Fast charging is device dependent. If you have an USB 2.0 device you need a bunch of biasing resistors on the data lines and different devices need different resistors.

AFAIK USB 2.0 devices aren't designed to fast charge while communicating.

If you have a USB-C and you don't have a google device it's also impossible, Qualcomm hijacks the data lines.

Only USB-C with standard USB-PD is guaranteed to work, only used by Google at the moment I though on mobile devices.

So if you happen to have a google phone, just get a USB-C hub with fast charging support and loop the signal through it. If not, forget about it.

>>1191569
Putting your music on a flash drive is a lot easier than modifying the output on your vehicle's built-in USB port.

Then you can use an ordinary charger, like a sane person, and stop fucking with your goddamn phone while you drive.

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>>1192344
No.
Because
>>1192083
>When a USB device begins communication with a host, one of the things it negotiates is power. The host (your car stereo in this case) tells the device it's a 1/2A supply, and the device limits itself accordingly. If the device trys to draw more than the negotiated power, things like short-circuit hardware protection can kick in, causing more problems.
>So even if you were to manage to give the device adequate rapid-charge current, because it's negotiating with the host, it's only going to pull that much.

It'll work for a hard drive, because the drive's 5V is tied directly to Vbus. Putting a 2nd USB in parallel will double the available current. The drive negotiates maximum power assuming you're plugging in both ports and the drive isn't going to pull more than what it's negotiated on the data port.

Again, something like that is not part of USB spec, and is what I'd call a "hack" (in the bad sense of the word, not "life hack").

>>1192409
Yup.
Or shoot music to the headunit through bluetooth and use a real charger.
I've got a USB drive for audiobooks that lives in the USB port.
>Pic extremely related
Black modular connector and speaker holes are for the two-way radio.

>>1192409
You obviously don't understand how Android auto works... It locks your phone out and puts basic controls via screen casting and voice command. Waaay safer than anything I've ever owned before.

>>1192396
Yeah, my phone is usb-c and Qualcomm quick charge 2.0.
Guess I'm just boned...

I listen to music and use Google maps over Bluetooth all the time. It's fine and you absolutely will not notice a quality difference. Stop being a jackass.

>>1193499
That's not Android auto.... Troll 0/10