sup /diy/, i got my hands on a 70s (exact year unknown) arctic

Will it have enough cooling for summer use?

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>>1189094
Don't see why it wouldn't. Half of the housing is heatsinking and it has a fuckhuge axial fan the size of the housing that blows air across the fins. Couple other people that use other Sachs models on karts too

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>>1188949
Engine's air-cooled, so as long as you don't block airflow it should be fine running summer or winter. Liquid-cooled sleds need the heat exchanger on the tunnel replaced with a radiator/fan setup to run in the summer.

Owners manual ... might look around at the vintage racing circuit forums, those guys would know what's going on with it.

The clutches will need a good going-through. They're not too complicated, but tuning them is an art. That clutch looks stock, putting a Comet or similar newer-vintage-sled primary on there will help get the power to the track (or whatever else you put under it) more efficiently.

The rest of the sled (skis, tunnel) i'd take to a scrap metal recycler. Probably get $15-20 out of it. If the track's in somewhat decent condition, that might get some money.

If you're in/around MN in september, go check out Haydays. You'll find anything/everything there...

Following this thread... I could help you out a lot more with more modern machines...
t. pro rider

>>1189114
i dont know if im going to keep the cvt or not seeing how its so damn long it would be hard to fit on my kart. slapping on a centrifugal or fabricating an adapter for a comet style would be easy enough.
i plan on melting down the body because its almost entirely aluminum and i already do it as a hobby so 100 lbs of free aluminum alone made it worth the headache to grab this thing anyway.the rest of the steel is going in the trash though, not worth the hassle of dropping off the rusty dirty crap. track and frame looks kinda crappy too but i might keep it and make 50 bucks off of it.
yeah i live in alaska so not really

>>1189114
The fuck is that interior all about?
A dozen or so race livery mobiles in the same room, and the most garish thing (by far) is still the honking carpet.

>>1189425
Pretty sure its a hotel conference room

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>>1189416
Either way, once the motor's running you can put pretty much whatever on it.

Ever been to tailgate ak? That's a party I'd love to get to someday.

>>1189425
>>1189427
Welcome to hotel decorating... I don't even notice how bad the patterns are anymore, they're all awful.
That was an interesting trip though.

>>1189425
Hotel carpets are like that to hide stains and wear.

>>1189114
And if the track is shit, you can use it as a nonskid surface if you nail it to a wooden slope.

I'd check the usual:
>Spark
>Compression
>Fuel
>Timing

One thing I don't know is how these things are lubricated. Best sus that out first.

>>1189565
no never been. im kind of a shut in lol
>a shut in
>on 4chan
>stop the presses!

>>>1189601
hey thats not a bad idea

>>1189604
the plug wire is missing so i have to do something about that, it feels to have goodish compression but i dont have a gauge. gonna be hooking up a 400cc carb to it so fuel is gonna take some tuning but from what ive read these things are like diesels in that the more fuel you suck in the more power they put out and they love to run as rich as possible so hopefully tuning will be easy. hopefully timing will still be good, ill have to get a 1.5" socket to take off the rear flywheel to get to the p&c if it has issues. from what ive read oiling is done just by premixing some 2 stroke or sae30 oil and it moves the oily fuel around the internals to lubricate which is crazy but also i bet that shit stays super clean from the gas.

I got a new plug and I'm trying to see if I can get this thing to at least turn a bit on ether but I can't get a spark across the plug. It's the exact same one that came out of the engine when I picked it up and I even gapped it all the way down to 10 thou and it won't spark. However when I hook up the spark tester and ground it directly it fires just fine and if I touch the kill wire (grounds the spark to kill the engine) to the housing it makes a spark that has enough Current to burn the aluminum a bit. I can't get a huge arc length, but still more than 10 thou in length probably a few 32nds or so long. Is it the coil or what?

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>>1190413
Could be a coil, could also be wire or cap.

See if the cap unscrews from teh wire. If it does, unscrew the wire from the coil. Clip 1/4" off the ends of the cable, then reassemble and see what happens. Had a sled that would eat 2-3 pr of cables every season, clipping the leads was a quick fix to get me through a few more days.

The coil can go bad too though.

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>>1190547
oh yeah i forgot the condenser is a cap. betcha 4.5 decades has turned that thing to dust. unfortunately i dont have a socket big enough to take off the rear flywheel to get to the setup, can i use a small engine coil transistorizer to bypass it completely? pic related is the setup for it. i probably would also throw on a 12v automotive coil since the kart has a battery for the lights and the engine has a stator anyway.

>>1190579
under the flywheel as in the flywheel holds down the big ass fan which contains all of the ignition doodads under it aside from the external spark coil. actually i think it might just be a self contained regular 12v ignition system, no magneto ignition at all aside from the 12v generation.

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i went and took a 12v battery and hooked it to the coil and manually broke the connection to induce a spark in the plug and it made an blue intense healthy spark so the coil is ok.
i managed to get the back flywheel off. turns out my largest adjustable just barely fits over the nut so i decided to give it a shot and lo and behold it just came loose like it was snugged on by hand. somehow i was able to fit my puller inside the cut outs so i didnt have to risk breaking the aluminum fan and it just slipped right off the shaft with no hassle too. fuck yeah.
i cleaned off the points on the points and the dirt and rust on the point cam(?) and using my feeler gauge it has about a 10 thou gap when fully open. i checked the condenser cap and i think its totally fugged. i did the ohm and volt test (multimeter on ohms charges the cap, then switch to vdc and check if there is a voltage stored) and it did not charge at all. however it is soldered to both coils (i think one is just for the spark and the other just for accessories) through a bit of wire so i didnt unsolder it. could that have obscured the results? either way i think i should replace it considering its 45 years old and i reassembled everything and tried to generate a spark again but it still wouldnt jump the plug gap but still lights up the tester.
so can i use any old condenser in here? i should have taken a picture or measurements but i was hoping the cleaning would work. it was something like 7/16 or 1/2 inch wide and maybe an inch or so tall.

>>1190633
>using my feeler gauge it has about a 10 thou gap when fully open
almost all points/condenser/coil setups use .020" as the setting for the points
many small engines have it embossed in the casting near the points as a reminder
the setting of the points affects the spark intensity somewhat but affects the timing too.
setting it to .010" instead of .020" retards the timing a few degrees

well im ecstatic to say she FUCKIN RUNS!
yesterday i went to the store to get a new condenser. unfortunately it was too small to fit in the press hole so i just ran a jumper wire for the positive to the outside of the case and used the clamp it came with to attach it to the housing. gave it some test spins with the electric start (a power drill with a socket lol) and i was getting a healthy spark across a 20 thou gap. plugged it in and used a bit of tape to cover 1/2 of the intake to choke it and gave it a shot of starting fluid, and it brapped right over after a spinning for a second.
today i made an adapter so i could hook up my gx390 carb rather than deal with the bullshit that was the carb it came with (all fuckin nasty, full of dirt and webs, plus the pulse pump thing. fuck that noise) plus it allows me to easily get new jets and stuff. finished it up, bolted everything together, poured a bit of 2 stroke in the bowl, gave it a shot of ether, and after tuning the choke and idle screw... it ran. of course it sucked the bowl dry in like 4 seconds, but it fired up and ran and revved and was spitting fire like a fuckin dragon. im so happy right now.
webms with sound related
>>>/wsg/1732990
>>>/wsg/1732992

>>1191557
>i was getting a healthy spark across a 20 thou gap

Plugs should be set at .030 - points at .020

>>1191829
Not according to the manual, .020 plug and points should be .016 +- .002 so I'll set them to .018 when my new set of points arrive

fuck, I love threads like this

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she runs. need to choke the intake about half way but i have a larger jet kit incoming to richen up the mix. i drilled out the idle jet so that the idle mix screw actually has an effect, now it will actually maintain an idle when it revs down. the big issue was that there is a 1/8 tapped hole for a pulse pump to transfer fuel that i forgot about and left open that turns out actually goes all the way down into the combustion chamber and uses the compression phase to shoot out air and cause the pulse. im sure you can imagine that would spit out a lot of the air charge and lower the compression quite a bit on a 300cc engine. now it just needs to be cleaned and degreased and i think we will be in business.
also, tractor flapper.
>>>/wsg/1734519

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>>1192179
Nice! I'm actually kind of impressed.

>apex seals

>>1192179
Ride eternal, shiny and chrome.

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>>1192596
thanks im actually surprised its actually still in good running condition seeing as its been sitting neglected in a yard in alaska for like decade. hopefully the seals still have a good amount of life but if they ever go out ill have to try and make my own from mazda seals as some people have done.

>>1192604
WITNESS ME

>>1192179
>will suck dick for apex seals.

So in case anyone else was wondering, a 1.2mm main jet and 1mm idle jet seem to work great for the engine with the 27mm 390cc carb. When unchoked It has a good healthy idle with that sexy Wankel lope that can be dialed in with the screw and when gunning it it spits a light flame and Cherry's the header to signify it's getting plenty of fuel (more fuel means cooler internals and better lubrication because 2 stroke fuel) but not so much so it's just a flame thrower out of the header.
All that's left is to figure out a starting system (recoils are hard to find, electrics are non-existent) and she will be ready for mounting. I'm thinking of trying to diy an electric start with a car starter and some sort of ring gear from a gx200 or 340/390 flywheel.

>>1192613
>alaska
Cool. Is the rest of the sled salvageable rather than melting the thing?

>>1193896
Just remember you have no load on it yet so tuning may change slightly.

You building a kart with this OP? Jelly as all fuck, I was about to start cobbling together a hackjob out of a 60cc and 2" PVC but it looks like I'm downsizing to a garageless apartment. You think a manual clutch bolted to a beefy derailleur would fall apart as a variable ratio chain drive? That's what I was going to go with.

>>1193963
nah, skis are mismatched and rusted to fuck, there is no wiring or electronics, springs are missing from the track, really the only thing not rusted is the aluminum body. there just isnt anything worth saving on this thing.

>>1193998
it shouldnt change a whole lot though right? worst case it will richen up and thats perfectly fine for a rotary.

>>1194023
its (supposed to be) going on a yard kart i have that currently has a 212 predator making like 8hp. however its 1 wheel drive and it gets terrible traction in dirt and loose rocks so it will have to be converted to live axle to have any chance at not just 1 tire firing all the way down the road.
ive asked that question myself about a bike cassette and derailleur as a transmission, and the answer i got was that humans are torque monsters that make very little hp and that bikes were made to handle 200+ lbs of torque at low rpm (im sure you can imagine what he meant by this) but not necessarily hp. however seeing as youre going with a 60cc i dont think it would really be a huge issue, just so long as everything stays in line when youre building it and you dont break the chain while its changing gears.

>>1194156
Aye, that's what the clutch is for. I may be a madman, but not an idiot. Try gearing it down before the derailleur with a jackshaft.
Actually, you're gonna need to do that no matter what. Wankels rev like fucking mad.

>>1191557
You have now acquired the power of rotary. There's no way a piece of junk AE86 is going to beat you now downhill. Congratulations!

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>tfw no doritokart
How much these things cost secondhand?

>>1194766
Not cheap for sure