Hello boys. My tv recently kicked the bucket, would not turn

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>>1188844
The new one

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>>1188845
Better picture of the original

I can say that old one is dead for sure
but it might not have died alone

>>1188845
it looks worn, it might also be dead where did you get it? it doesn't look new at all

>>1188865
bigwarehousespares in australia

they dicked me around already and im on hold atm

because id id notice
>>1188867

what component is this called exactly?

>>1188876
*i did

>>1188876
a transformer

>>1188846
a capacitor shit the bed on your old one

>>1188845
a transformer is munched on the new one

>>1188882
>>1188881
thank you kindly mentlegen

>>1188844

Do you have a multimeter with a capacitance setting. If so I would check the two parallel plate caps CX801S and CX802S. If you can't check capacitance on these guys, I would check to see if they hold a charge using a voltmeter or similar setting on a multimeter.

I had a similar problem with the power board on my tv. Replacing these caps allowed the logic board to turn on/exit standby. I would check the voltages after you replace these caps coming from the power board to the logic board. There should be some sort of diagram on the power board showing the pins' voltages coming off the power board to the logic board. If the power board still isn't allowing the logic board to leave standby, i.e. a power board component failure, then I would check a schematic online and watch YouTube repair videos.

Btw the caps you should replace are blue rectangular ones near the bottom of the picture you supplied. The names are right next to them.

>>1188999
do you think this sort of damage is just superficial or would it have a effect on the board?
>>1188845
the store is telling me its superficial scruff marks and want a report from a technician before i can get the warranty.

>>1188999

Quick follow up. I think the component failure on the old board is CX801S. IIRC these can be purchased fairly cheaply on digikey, or if you need an exact replacement, eBay would work as well.

However, I don't have access to your board, so it could be something else entirely. I would replace this cap on the old board for sure.

>>1189005
this >>1188846 is his old board.

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>>1188846

The damaged bifilar choke is in the ac input circuit.
The two are in series so if either are damaged to the point of open circuit it will prevent the mains voltage from getting to the rest of the board,

L1_____nnnn_____nnnn_____
L2---------uuuu---------uuuu---------

>>1189002

I am unsure of what you are asking. I think the CX801S is a polypropylene film capacitor. Its being defective will not allow the cold side of the board to operate, as it is on the hot side of the board. Again I'm not sure of the details of this board, but I'm pretty sure this is your problem.

Anyways, forgive my misunderstanding if any.

>>1188844
Hey OP, is this a Samsung TV? It looks like it..

If it is, and it's a newer model, disconnect the main board (but keep the panel connector plugged in to the power supply) and plug it in to mains. If the backlight lights then your problem is more likely the main board.

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>>1189009
>The two are in series so if either are damaged to the point of open circuit it will prevent the mains voltage from getting to the rest of the board,

>>1189017
im done dealing with the supplier for a new board.

can i replace the bifilar choke from the old unit? whats the chances of it being damaged?

fuck it im gonna do it anyway. pray for me.

>>1189022

Dude, did you disconnect the main board yet to see if anything happens?

>>1189023
As I don't know much about what kind of damage this may or may not cause, no. I'll transplant the old chokes then try that then take a sledge hammer to it and upload a video.

>>1189024

It won't cause any damage. On newer (2012ish) units disconnecting the main board causes the power supply to turn on the high voltage which will turn on your backlight (assuming the backlight is good). If the backlight DOES turn on, odds are the main board is defective.

>>1189024

Even if the TV is older, connecting power to the power supply will at worst do absolutely nothing.

There is no chance of damage unless you short something yourself.

>>1189026
Ok then here goes nothing

Ok backlight came on. Fuck me right.

>>1189034

Yep, seems more likely the main board is gone then if you don't even get the status light.

>>1189035
Are you saying I managed to blow both boards? Or that the power board despite looking burnt to shit is still functional?

>>1189036
I work for a Samsung service center (in Canada mind you, but the boards are similar). I've seen many almost burnt looking boards still work just fine.

There is still a chance that the low voltage side is defective, but in my experience that's less likely. If you have a multimeter I would suggest checking the main board connector to make sure that you have your 12v's and your standby voltages.

>>1189036

Also, many T-Con's (board connected with ribbon cables) have LED's on them if they have power from the main board. Does yours have LEDs? If so, do they light at all?

>>1189039
None at all

>>1189040

Then either the main board is gone, or the low voltage side of the power supply is gone.

Again though, my bet would be main board.

>>1189043
Buying one now, still cheaper then a new tv I guess. But it's getting real fucking close~

>>1189040

Checking the part number on the board, is this model similar to "UN40EH5000FXZC" (That's Canadian, yours may be different letters)

>>1189047
Hmm, or Aussie version is "UA40EH5006M"?

>>1189047
>>1189049

Hmm, regardless I can't get you a schematic view since it's not available on my Samsung site. I could get you the exploded view and part list though if you want.

>>1189049
thats the one

>>1189050
if its not too much trouble, though im not sure how it would help.

i cant seem to find a board anywhere except http://www.mxmee.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3289
and they say they pulled it from a working tv and dont really feel like being screwed

>>1189054
My experience with 'used' parts has been dismal.

What Version is your unit?
HS02
TS01
UD03

It should be listed on the serial number sticker somewhere

>>1189055
HS02

>>1189054
A lot of the boards get substituted, so there may be more than one part number that you could look for

>>1189057
https://mega(dot)nz/#!wcNVwDjI!IEa_FCArhNUBfZSxw6ddxE15o-S_rmfLE8_n9XP_zBI

This is the exploded view with part numbers listed. It might not help that much, but it might help get you started.

>>1189059
thanks alot much appreciated.

>>1189060

http://www.electronicsmarket.com.au/2003-000011-metal-oxides68kohm53waatp6x16-p-10090.html

These guys any good?

>>1189060
Hmm, also I'll get you the Canadian version bulletin about power issues, I believe the main boards are near identical

>>1189060
Service Manual (Canadian Version, but similar)
https://mega.nz/#!4cNEgLZT!6TnfetIT7CDmUHFQDDG5s47E0M1xliq_I5xh6Oe1fl8

Bulletin (Likely the same)
https://mega.nz/#!0M1RBABS!O4JMD0Yfsp9zgvCHfIOPRaLiQqhji5CtvNnDOf69BIU

>>1189063
>>1189065
>>1189066

That's about all I can think of that might help.

>>1189063
https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1753383
>>1189061
havent looked yet but i suspect similar stories to my own with bigwarehousespares.

i dont know much about tvs but i do know internet so i started fuzzing their server for some subdomains and vhosts, ill be surprised if all those websites arent hosted on the same guys box. but i digress.

>>1189069

Well, unfortunately Canadian parts wouldn't likely work properly so I can't really help you there.

The bulletin may help though if you're handy with a soldering iron

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>>1189067
greatly appreciated anon, you've saved me another 15 weeks correspondence by email to send back a part that wouldn't have solved the problem anyway. if not you, i appreciate the diagrams regardless.

>>1189071

It's been me all along haha. I've been screwed over before where people could've helped.

We'll call this my years being nice quota.

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for future reference;
http://www.statewideapp.com.au
seem to be the peoples choice.

>>1189072
pic related

>>1189076

Godspeed in your repair fellow anon.

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>>1188867
+1
AOI

>>1188876
>>1188881
>>1188882

That is not a transformer. The transformer is LPDOC-FM with a possible second smaller one to the right of it (I can't see the PCB label or count the pins to tell). The part OP is asking about is called a common mode choke hence the PCB label LX.

>>1190988
>That is not a transformer

You're a little late...
see >>1189009
and >>1189017

>>1190994
>bifilar choke
They're common mode chokes, not bifilar. As far as I know there is no such thing as a bifilar-wound common mode choke.

>>1188882
>a capacitor shit the bed on your old one
fucking hell diy. It's not the capacitors, and the goddamned TV doesn't have lupus either.

>fucking hell diy. It's not the capacitors

CM852 has clearly leaked some chemicals leaving a 3-inch trail of slime.

>>1191012
>They're common mode chokes, not bifilar.

Thank you.

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>>1191042
>fucking hell diy. It's not the capacitors,
>>1191046
>CM852 has clearly leaked some chemicals leaving a 3-inch trail of slime

>>1191133
Damn good catch!

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>>1193038

>>1193071
As someone with very little understanding, what's the deal with cm808? Is that not damage as well?

>>1193747
>what's the deal with cm808?
If you're referring to the white blob, it's silicone 'glue'.

>>1188844
Have you thought of buying a new one? Shits cheap as all fuck if you're not some faggit that buys a 4K 50inch.

>>1193071

The diodes seem fine to me, they're just a bit dusty from the hot transformer below. But that's just a guess, you'll have to check them to be sure.

The capacitor looks leaked, I'd replace it with a new one with at least 105°C thermal rating.

>>1193848

If you actually read the thread OP had already bought a new power supply which did NOT solve his problem.

Granted that cap looks bad, but it wasn't his problem.

>>1193850

Yup, I've skimmed the comments but I was reacting to >>1193071
Just saying the power supply might be good except the leaked cap.
/me is outta here.

>>1193850

and if YOU had actually read the thread, you'd have noted that the replacement board had a damaged coil which could easily have made it completely inoperable. see pic in >>1188845 and others.

Any updates on this project?

>>1188844
Just buy a new tv

>>1193764
>>1196166
>on /diy/
>"just buy a new one"
>trying to dissuade OP from understanding how things work or why they stopped working
>ignoring the DIY spirit
nu-male, pls go

>>1196170
i think im gonna have to as i cant find BN91-09447U

im on the hunt for broken televisions but for now settled with a new one and have put the sledgie on ice.

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>>1196326
>>1193071
>>1191133
>>1190970
much appreciated, ill buy you all a beer when i see you

>>1191133
Remove the capacitor and show the this board a pic of the can showing the value and tolerance markings then take a pick of a capacitance meter showing that it value is still as specified as on the can and within tolerance. Until that component is tested and within its tolerance it suspect and rejected by the AOI.