I got a 36" x 2" x 1/4" chunk of Starett O1 precision

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and after over 9000 hours of getting carpal tunnel from hacksaws and filing, I came out up with this.

Can someone advise me on how to heat treat and temper this so my efforts were not in vain?

This took so fucking long to cut and shape by hand it was unbelievable.

Only the end needs to be hardened. Can I just heat the end with a blowtorch until it is non-magnetic and dunk it in warm oil?

>>1167004

Are you making a spatula?

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>>1167005
Close, but not exactly.

Hock sells this shoulder plane kit for $100. The blade (also O1 steel, only 3/16" thick compared to my 1/4") for $30. I thought I'd get 25.6x the amount of the same steel for the money and fabricate the blade myself, in /diy/ fashion of course..

>>1167009
You went through all this work without learning how to harden and temper steel first?

This is also super easy to find out yourself.

here lazy ass https://www.speedymetals.com/information/Material9.html

>>1167022
I already knew all this. I know some of the technical details, like quenching in warm oil, tempering at 400 for a minimum of two hours, etc. But I've never heat treated anything though.

>>1167027
>tempering
Not guy you're responding to, but I presume you don't have an actual kiln for this, so just stick it in your home oven at 400F. The temp wont stay as nice and constant as in a kiln but its a reachable temp in a home oven. That or you buy a used kiln

>>1167000
you could use a small carbide insert as a cutter, if you can sharpen it.

>>1167034
I only have an oven. Like the sort used for baking cookies.

Some further research confirms that I need to soak the workpiece @1450 for thirty minutes before the quench, or else I will not attain full hardness. So, is this doable by just holding the item by the tang with vise grips and holding it over an open flame for the required time?

I really can't afford to "do it the right way", sorry in advance.

>>1167188
Use MAPP. Hold it with tongs on the end you don't need to harden, heat it cherry red, keep it there a few minutes (5-10?) to make sure it gets heated through, then dunk in oil. Clean off the oil before you put it in your oven at the aforementioned 400° for half an hour. You'll be fine. Don't drop it once you've hardened it or we'll all laugh at you.

>>1167199
Oh, and if you want to hold it in the torch for half an hour go for it, but I wouldn't. You're only worried about one end, and only about an inch of that. As long as that gets heated through you're golden. You aren't making a lathe bit, you're only using it for wood.

>>1167000
Use a coffee can forge or you will fuck the tempering up and ruin your 40$ piece of metal

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xv9nnEhgfuY

>>1167000
Jesus I need to start flipping shit on the internet.
>buddy makes tools for a living
>knows I have a welder and is always making stuff.
>asks me if I need any scrap 2" tool steel.
>say sure, how big of pieces can you get?
>he says his largest piece is 144" long x 4", smallest is about 36" x 2".
>has about enough to fill a pickup bed.
>its all going into the recycle bin....

Guys, I am happy to report that it was a success. I used the MAPP gas torch to keep the blade orange hot until a split second before it went into the oil.

After the quench it came out harder than my files.

I wish I had stopped to take pics, but per the datasheet, I didn't let the steel drop below 150 degrees before plopping it in the oven for tempering at 400 degrees. It's in there now and I plan to keep it there for two hours, which should yield 62 Rockwell but I have no way of knowing what its final hardness will be. As long as it behaves like a blade steel I will be happy.

>>1167000
>(It was a great bargain at $44 on amazon)

Please tell me you're joking?

because I can get 6x50x500mm for £11.50 - just under $15.

Given you only used about 25mm width by the look of it, I could've bought 6x25x500mm for just £8.50. - $10, 1/4 what you paid

>>1167495
>I have no way of knowing what its final hardness will be

Tests or GTFO

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It looks crusty, but that's just burned on oil from the quench.

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I only cut 50% of the primary bevel before heat treat - mainly because I read somewhere that a if it were ground all the way, the thin cross section could be burned out during heat treat.

I used my preferred sharpening method (an upside down belt sander) to clean away most of the carbon buildup and also to grind most of the primary bevel. I eyeballed 30 degrees. It doesn't matter that much. I still have about a mm to go before I hit the apex.

I have a special technique for using a belt sander to sharpen seriously damaged chisels and knives without bluing the steel. It's pretty much the best sharpening method and I've tried them all.

>>1167542
Good job OP. A little bit "Hey guys, watch this," and a little bit "Well the experts all say do this." The one thing I didn't mention was test it with a file, but you seem to have figured that out.

It's always cute watching wood people do metal things. I hope your plane works well, OP.

>>1167590
>It's always cute watching wood people do metal things.

like elves at an Iron Maiden concert...

>>1167009
and what use is the extra thickness when its not going any work because you ground it off to sharpen the edge? whoops!

>>1167926
Less chatter.

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I put the final edge today on it with a 1000/8000 waterstone, then with some stropping. Now I'll start making the plane body.

>>1167587
Thanks.

>>1168597
Lookin' sharp op

>>1168597
Looking good my man. I hope that was a Chosera whetstone and not some cheap one that soaks in water. Also, don't forget to sand those edges it will only pose a risk of jabbing wood.