steels

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>>1154295
leaf springs?

>don't have a forge or hammer
>kind of quenching or hardening process as i don't have a long container and fill it with motor oil
jesus, you may as well buy a sword off late night tv

>>1154295

Yeah, if you want a functional sword you're going to need to harden and temper the blade. If you want to go this route, you might use a high carbon steel like 1084 and send the blade out for professional heat treatment. The best way to diy the heat treatment would be to dig a little coal forge in the ground with a hair dryer taped to a buried pipe for your air supply. Heat the blade evenly until it's no longer magnetic then just a few seconds longer and quench in oil. That'll harden the blade. Then you're gonna need to find an oven big enough to put the blade in to temper it. If you just want a decorative sword look for some cheap stainless and don't worry about heat treatment... but also make sure you never hit anything with it.

>>1154304
hmmmm, i can make a coal forge using some bricks honestly, its a construction site as i said, would that work? also in the regards of professional heat treatment, finding one that is decent here is almost an impossibility, most metal workers here do shit like balcony fences and aluminum sliding door frames, finding a guy who knows the baby steps of hardening is well, hard.
so i can get a pipe long enough to fit the blade length, and i can use the forge to temper the blade, now what kind of oil do i use?

Purchase a standard flat bar of SAE 1045 and temper it.

>>1154307

Peanut oil's a good choice. It's got a pretty high flash point. You could also go with canola. The guy above me is right about leaf springs too if you want to be super cheap. They're usually 5160 or some other steel between .9%-1% carbon.

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Follow this chart, use SAE 1040 or 1045 and drop into water, you don't need to forge a blade for it to be good as long as you sharpen it often.

>>1154295
Tool steel is what you use to make swords

>>1154314
He just won't be able to work it.

>>1154307

Oh I just noticed you mentioned you want to use the forge to temper the blade. You're really not gonna be able to do that. Once you harden in the forge, you're going to need to temper the blade in an oven for a few hour long cycles at 450° or so. It varies depending on the steel you end up going with and the temper you want, but you definitely need that precise temperature control to temper and without tempering your blade will shatter on the first swing after hardening.

>>1154313
awesome thanks, so get either one of those steels, make the blade shape and all that, then drop it in water, what about realignment? or is that an issue when you hammer the blade to shape? cuz if im just grinding on a flat piece of steel, it should really have any weird stress in it si it should stay straight right?
>>1154312
a few problems with oils where i live, peanut oil is hard to order since i don't know any site taht delivers internationally and canola oil same story, the only kind of oil we have here is olive oil, vegetable cooking oil, automotive related oils, and thats it. i'm not sure about peanut and canola oil but those sound expensive(where i live)

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>>1154295

>>1154317

Yeah, you can use the veggie oil too. Just keep in mind that different quenchants have different thermal properties. Water for instance sucks heat out of the steel a whole hell of a lot faster than any of the oils, so if you go with water you'll need to make sure you're using a steel that's suitable for water hardening and understand going in that it's less forgiving to work with. It's a lot easier to crack a blade hardening with water than with oil.

>>1154316
well i dont have an oven, how about using hot sand? consider me being that upstart medieval blacksmith, how would you temper a blade ? maybe put it in a tube of hot sand and let it lay on top of the forge ? and add a layer of coal or wood every few hours?
i don't have anything for what you would call a professional setup and if i need that precise setup control, how precise can i get with just elevating the blade above hot coals?

>>1154327

You don't have an oven? How do you cook tater tots man?

I mean you can try. I just can't imagine you'll get the temper you want.

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>>1154295
> but i don't have a forge or hammer
You don't know how to forge anything, you don't even own a hammer, and the first thing you want to make is a sword?
>would this require any kind of quenching or hardening process
Yes it would.
> i don't have a long container and fill it with motor oil or some other stuff, also, for quenching the best i can do is quench it in water
Then you're pretty much stuck with W1
>but for how long i should keep it in i'm not sure
Because you don't even know what quenching actually does.
> for the handle and pommel i can figure it out
Sure
> but most of the stuff i want to know is with the blade shape and grinding process and other processes i need to do and know about.
You actually think you'd be able to properly shape and finish a sword, but you don't even own a hammer? Who are you kidding?

>>1154331
i have an oven, but im not sure if i can fit the entire blade length AND the handle length, into the oven, without having it stay open, also we dont have an oven with tempurature control, just normal gas oven, we turn on and light the fire, thats it. sad life. so what do you think? do i use heated sand? or have it elevated above the coals? and just letting in air from bellow the coals but not adding fresh coal so it stays are that reletive tempurature

>>1154332
construction site, there will probably be a hammer there, although i wont use it, to not fuck it up more than it would be. only going to use hand tools like a grinder and different disk sizes. there are bricks there and we have charcoal and coal for possible BBQs so thats a possibility, and i know BBQ coals have limestone mixed in so they burn slower would that be good for tempering? and if its normal cooking oil ill look up the quenching time for it.
wtf is W1

well watch me fail atleast point me in the right direction, i never said i'd be pissed if i fucked it up on the first try if anything ill probably use the forge for heat treating.

>>1154333

Yeah, well if that's what you've gotta do that's what you've gotta do. I'd say do as many dry runs and make as many tweaks as you need until you're sure you can maintain 400-450° consistently and for an hour at a time. If you can make it work well, hats off to you sir.

>>1154341
i will try ofc, also i will be going with the Celcius measurement, (metric system fag). ill prolly have to go with a dry sand run and maybe shift the sand every now and then to keep it same temperature. that or i have a thermometer and keep an eye on it. hmmm. cant i let it hold in the oil and heat the oil up?

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>>1154335
>there will probably be a hammer there, although i wont use it
So you don't actually want to do any blacksmithing, nor would you know how
>only going to use hand tools like a grinder and different disk sizes
So you don't actually know how to make a blade
>they burn slower would that be good for tempering?
You don't know how to temper something so no, they wouldn't
>wtf is W1
One of the oldest and most common tool steels available?

Just make a knife first before you embarrass yourself in front of your dad.

>>1154349
well my dad doesn't give a damn really, and i'm probably going to end up making a rather large knife,

>>1154346

Yeah you sure could, but please don't set your dad's construction site on fire by accidentally the oil on the coals.

>>1154367
oh no dont worry, we have another build a good 1 hundred meters away and we usually work with non flamable stuff, wood is only used to build frames for concrete poors. and some of the wood just breaks after some use so i can use that as fuel for the forge once its hot enough, i can use it to cool it down if it gets too hot or throw in some charcoal if its too cold. i want to know if sand would be a good way to temper iti can just have a box welded and burry the entire blade in it.

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Okay so i will be using vegetable oil for quenching. Ill make a setup for the oil container.

Correct me if im wrong but when I looked up a few vids on quenching they always realigne the blade cuz of the stress from hammering it into shape. BUT if im going to use hand tools and powertools for cutting out a blank and grinding out the shape that should cause so much stress it would need bending back into alignment so its straight again right?

in the pic you can see I have dirt but would sand be better. Dimensions can change cuz imma experiment with it but would this work? And which of these 4 seems the more logically possible?

Swords in general are fucking hard to make properly, larger ones like the handed type are even more difficult as the scale needed to forge, heat treat and temper are much larger, plus they also need to be very precise. If the edge and blade geometry is even slightly off the sword turns into a boomerang at the hardening stage and you won't have much use for that.

Steels, 1070-1075 is ok for large knives, smaller swords, 5160/SUP9 is probably the better for a very large sword.
The thing is, you will need to temper these to about 50-55HRC, which means high temperatures during the tempering process which can be hard to maintain consistently, on a long blade you can forget about putting a blacksmiths temper through it as it'll create hard-soft points along the length and that'll result in failure.

Basically, start small that way when you fuck it up, (and you will, this is a hard hobby) it won't be as much effort and cost which will put you off making things.

>>1154781
oh okay hmmm i think ill go for a rather large knife, or maybe a thick spear head, erm btw what do you think of the pic i posted earlier. would any of those 4 setups work?

>>1154749
Bottom left

>>1155153
thanks

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>>1154335
>construction site, there will probably be a hammer there

>>1154749
Good. Dont use water. It will crack. Used motor oil is fine on rare occasion but not often.

>>1155350
a large amount of use motor oil we dont have, would vegetable cooking oil work?

>>1154295
ASTM 5160 carbon steel

>>1154307
Tegular construction bricks explode at forge temperatures. This isn't a damn pizza oven dude.
Get fire brick, or fire wool, or whatever other legitimate insulator is made for this application.

>>1154295
Use either nanites or auraxium

if you just wan t to cheap out then just go to a scrapyard and pick up a leaf (truck spring)