I'd like to run 220v to my detached garage. I have 110 12/2

>>1152897
As you assemble, snake a cord through there. Assembled? Pull your wire

>>1152897
>My plan is to connect new 10/3 wire to the existing wire and try to pull it through.
>>1152897
>10/3 wire

Romex is difficult to pull.

You'd have better luck pulling three #10 wires through.

>>1152900
so try to pull 4 wires of something like this through?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-100-ft-10-Black-Stranded-THHN-Wire-22973237/204812489

Lots and lots of dish soap, also if you have more than a couple bends you might wanna dig up at some point midway through to make pulling easier. 4 #10's should pull pretty easy through 3/4 though.

>>1152903
>pull 4 wires

Yes, but I'd only pull three. I'd put a sub-panel in the garage and drive a ground rod there.
Pulling the black, red, and white and forging the green.

The cost of the ground rod and clamp will be offset by not having to buy the green wire.

With the sub-panel available you can split out the service to lights and outlets much easier.

As >>1152913
said, use a lubricant.

Dish soap is OK but since you linked to HD, search there for 'wire pulling lubricant' -- $7+ for a quart of the real stuff.

>>1152934
So running both phase neutrals back to my main breaker wouldn't allow me to use one of the phases for 110 supply around my garage?

Can you link any documentation on this for reference?

Thanks for the input.

>>1153140
>So running both phase neutrals

In the USA there is only one neurtal for 220/240 volt service.

The split phase system uses two 110/120 volt 'hot' wires and one neutral.
The fourth wire is the 'earth' wire for eauipment grounding.

Black - L1
Red - L2
White - Neutral / ground
Green - earth ground
(white is the neutral supplied by the electric service and is connected to earth/ground)
(green is the 'equipment' earth/ground and is connected to a ground rod near your meter or breaker panel)

L1 to Neutral - 120vac
L2 to Neutral - 120vac
L1 to L2 - 240vac

Yes, you can split them for 120 volts but you only need one neutral.

You can avoid buying and pulling the service ground (green)
by having a ground rod at the garage.
(you can actually not have a green wire or a ground wire at the garage and it will work fine since the white and green are connected together inside your breaker panel but electricians and euros will scream about all the dangers - there are none really)

You don't have to do it my way. Do it however you want.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Split-phase_electric_power

File: house electric.jpg (21KB, 653x555px) Image search: [Google]

21KB, 653x555px

Here's a pic of what anon explained here >>1153201

Wouldn't skip on the earth ground, since it's an attached garage. (power tools, wet cars, ect.)

>>1152934
You can't do that. You can only bond your ground to neutral at your meter/main panel. Subpanels MUST have an independent ground back to the main.

Wtf are you telling newbs to do, faggot? You're fuckin wrong.

>>1153211
>since it's an attached garage
>>1152897
>to my detached garage
>>1153230
>electricians and euros will scream about all the dangers

>>1153230
>You can only bond your ground to neutral at your meter/main panel. Subpanels MUST have an independent ground back to the main.

Why can't you set up a ground bar on the sub panel and not bridge the ground and neutral bars?

In the US btw

>>1153453
Prior to 2008 this was acceptable. Since all the buildings wired this way burned down due to electrical fires they changed the code to require a ground from the main panel to the sub-panel AND have a ground system for the sub-panel that is not bonded to the neutral in the sub-panel.

>>1153201
>Red is live
>Black is also live
>White is neutral
>But might be earth too lol

Do burgers just hate colours that the entire rest of the world uses or what? No wonder you have so many electrical fires over there.

How it is done logically and reasonably by the rest of the planet.

>Black neutral
>Green Earth
>Red/brown phase 1
>White phase 2
>Blue phase 3

>>1153230
>>1153453
>>1153473
I actually misspoke too, turning my point into a non sequitor.

You're still not allowed to have a separate ground, but op and the advice guy weren't talking about bonding anything to neutral, just making a new ground electrode and making it a separate ground at the panel... Which wouldn't provide any protection unless it was bonded to neutral at the subpanel which is super bad. Subpanels need to be fed with ground and neutral wires, and the ground and neutral busses cannot be bonded.

File: wp_ss_20170324_0002.png (4MB, 2560x1440px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 2560x1440px

>>1153318
>no danger
>earth fault is 40k ohms.
>touch grounded and faulted tool that is trying to dump ac to ground to trip a breaker but it can't.

Enjoy.

>>1153604
nobody uses your shitty colors.
BN-L1, BK-L2, GY-L3, BU-N, GNYE-PE is the only true way

>>1153604
>Black neutral
wut? what country?
we have
green or green+ yelow - earth - old conections with 2 wires use it as eart+neutral
blue or dark blue - neutral or earth+neutral
phase - black 1-3 old standard
new instalation use probably diferent color for each phase - black, brown and gray
but there are special cases in whitch the color coding is a bit diferent - mostly old or fcked instalation

>>1152897
Only need three wires. N is bonded to ground at main panel. L1, L2 and N go to garage sub panel where N is bonded to ground with an earth rod again. Check your NEC.

>>1153995
Also, NEC requires conduit if less than three foot deep. Otherwise direct burial is OK.

>>1153999
Direct burial would only be okay if the wire is rated for it. Romex is not. Stating only for OP's sake.

>>1153616
Actually, you can treat the garage sub-panel as a separate service. Run two phases and neutral from the house panel. Drive ground rod and connect to the sub panel ground bus. Jumper the sub panel ground bus to the neutral bus.

What you cannot do is to run a ground from the main panel AND bond the sub panel neutral/ground buses.

>>1154272
>Romex is not

Nit picking here: Romex is a brand name. Generic name is NM cable (non-metallic cable). There are NM types that are rated for direct burial. UF-B for example.

>>1153604
>invent electrical generation
>get told by "the rest of the world" who didn't - 'you're doing it wrong'
this checks out

>>1153604
now that the uk is out of the eu perhaps we can go back to red/yellow/blue/black instead of the shit we are stuck with now.
black is phase now? fuck off lol.

op if you didn't live in a 3rd world country you would know that conduit is for single cores, not sheathed cable. you don't bury conduit you bury duct and ideally its twin wall / corrugated so it doesn't fucking collapse. oh, yeah, and of you do bury cable it should be mechanically and electrically protected from damage, buried to a sufficient depth and labelled with appropriate marker tape. throwing some pvc sheathed cably in an old drain pipe fulfils none of those criteria. get some swa, do it properly you gimp. duct is optional, just remember your bend radius and volt drop calculations.

>>1154299
>knob and tube
how about go fuck yourself.

>>1154370
OP will do none of this, and none of the other precautions that someone with education and experience will do. Enjoy your house house fire, void incurrence and the 250 bucks you saved.

>>1152900
NM(Romex) is not allowed outdoors, even in conduit.