Yo, /diy/! I recently ordered some broken Super Nintendos off

>>1146961
the solder job is literally blow me up tier

also something is blown up under the grey plastic part, and the solder joint is dead near it

>>1146964
indeed that fucking capacitor may not even make fucking contact with that retarded soldering joint

>>1146964
the solder job is because I need new solder tips, mostly.
the grey plastic part around the ports?

>>1146967
>ports

yeah, see the brown scorch marks near it

also the TDK part has broken solder joint


>new solder tips
you need new solder skills because you have zero, go watch the pace solder videos on jewtube

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>>1146970
scorch marks?

>>1146976
scorch marks

>>1146981
where

>>1146982
near the tdk part

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>>1146985

>>1146987
the slight browning color is a result of overheat

also... that solder joint looks so bad it likely damaged the traces beyond repair... looks like a trace is broken too

>>1146988
are you talking about where the new fuse is or?

>>1146991
broken traces yes

>>1146997
what are my options, captain

>>1146988
that's a thermistor isnt it? its meant to get hot. spend any amount of time looking at the power supply section of a circuit board and they always brown and discolor because they get and stay hot regularly.

I'd say it experienced a surge. gl they tend to blow a few things. if you have any more questions OP take a picture of the other identical boards you have and one of this board for comparison. I think you'll end up answering all your own questions ;)

>>1147000
well, the fuse that i replaced is normally the only thing blown if that happens. That's the point of the fuse that was there as far as i know.

Also for what it's worth, the light only flickers after the system sitting for a bit. If I turn it off on in a pretty close time frame, the light doesn't flicker.

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the power supply is supposed to convert your high volt AC to low volt DC. Flickering makes me think the diodes are toast. AC is leaking though the rectification circuit. The caps might be toast too. The transformer might have a short in it. So one question. Do you own a multimeter?

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>>1147077
I do, but it was purchased for me, so I'm not 100% clear on how to properly use it.

>>1147090
I do know how to make it beep

>>1147090
read the manual or watch some youtube videos on how to identify and test the parts i listed as possible failure points. Good luck. This will be a good educational experience for you.

>>1147100
I'll try my best lad

>>1146961
>they're fairly easy to fix.
>I've already replaced the fuse
>I need new solder tips
>not 100% clear on how to properly use it
i don't want to be rude op but you are out of your depth. if this is a means to an end then maybe someone will hold your hand through this, its a slow enough board, but if you are actually interested in electrical repair you should go learn the fundamentals. go to a library, find a book on electronics and learn a little theory.
super nintendo is good because components aren't all retarded tiny and hard to fiddle like stuff now, but its a computer so not all jellybean parts that you can pick up anywhere and replace, some of it is specialised and custom.

>>1147117
Most Super Nintendos just need the cart slot cleaned to work properly.

I replaced the fuse, because when it had this issue earlier, bypassing the fuse with a wire fixed it, but then it went back to having the same problem.

The tips are because I'm poor and don't want to buy cheap ones, because cheap tips for a hakko are awful.

I've just not hardly used the multimeter. It was bought for me to test a product I sold for someone else and they told me exactly what to do.

>>1147117
Also thanks for the advice, I think

>>1147092
press the yellow button while on your pic related position

>>1147329
I know, lad

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Did you check the voltage coming out of the 7805?

>>1147090
No, you probably didn't if you don't know how to use a multimeter.

>>1148851
I sort of did.
I checked resistance between ground and output. It would beep for like a millisecond, and then not doing anything as if it weren't connected. Kinda similar to what happened with the light flickering when I turned it on.

>>1148853
You need to get it set to DC voltage, black lead on ground and red on output. See if it holds steady at about 5v. If it doesn't, then try black on ground red on input. See if that holds steady. If 5v fails but input is supplying voltage the whole time then you need a new regulator. If input is unsteady then you have something upstream from the 7805 with an issue. Could be power switch, power jack, power adapter etc.

>>1147117
SNES is mostly surface mount components. I'd go with 80s tech repair as a point to learn from. Broken Famicoms are cheap, and doing composite video mods can be a good learning experience.

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>>1146998
Not that anon, but it can be fixed. You'll need a Caig circuit writer pen. Remove all the solder and any traces that have lifted off the board. Draw them back on with the pen. It looks like you've been using too much solder and not enough heat The dull grey color means it's a bad joint. Use a pencil tip iron that can hit at least 650F. Put the iron to the part trace first, then touch your solder (lead, rosin core) to it. You won't need much. Take the iron off when you see the solder flow on to the parts. Clean any rosin off. The joint should be shiny.

>>1148856
when the snes is on and powered, ground and output give me like .005 volts max

>>1148856
>>1148873
input - ground gives like barely under 2v

>>1148863
appreciate this

>>1148873
You may have something going on with your multimeter, maybe set to measure in kilovolts or something, but either way your input voltage is way off.

Do a test directly from the power supply barrel connector and see what it reads. I think it's rated as 10v but anything 9-14v is normal with no load on it.

>>1148888
am i just touching both probes directly to the metal bit at the back of the power connection?

>>1148892
From the legs or if that's hard to reach pull the board out and measure from the bottom where the pins come through. Be careful with the ribbon cable for the controller ports. They get fragile with age.

>>1148894
measuring with either touching one of the pins, i get around 12v consistent.
(my multimeter definitely is weird, though, because I have to orient the probes a certain way for it to read properly.